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Ford Focus Full Wiring Schematics Mk2/2.5 And Mk3


Preee
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9 minutes ago, Micro said:

You can only pull what the wire can handle, there are lots of tables online that tell you the advised max current for a length of cable with a certain cross sectional area.

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 im referring to fuse 119 owners manual says its 25A  for rear lugage  12V  but in place of 25 is a 15. im in no rush

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10 hours ago, MCoop said:

i was asking what the blue/brown wire

I can't see the blue brown wire in the photo. But there is a brown-blue wire from the Park aid to a one pin connector that goes to the trailer tow module, when fitted. It turns the reverse sensors off when a trailer is attached. Otherwise they beep as soon as you engage reverse gear!

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On 9/23/2019 at 11:40 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

I can't see the blue brown wire in the photo. But there is a brown-blue wire from the Park aid to a one pin connector that goes to the trailer tow module, when fitted. It turns the reverse sensors off when a trailer is attached. Otherwise they beep as soon as you engage reverse gear!

thats the one i was confused about, so need to run my own ground to the orange connector,   also big male connector clipped to the chassis rail .(with dummy  female on mine) I presume thats for towbar electrics

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i have since   fitted leds  to the rear,  Fog,  reverse and indicators however they hyperflash  i may need a load resistor on each side  as my focus doesnt have dedicated relays

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i have since   fitted leds  to the rear,  Fog,  reverse and indicators however they hyperflash  i may need a load resistor on each side  as my focus doesnt have dedicated relays
You will need a load resistor, they hyperflash because the car thinks a bulb is out.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/28/2019 at 3:34 PM, Micro said:

You will need a load resistor, they hyperflash because the car thinks a bulb is out.

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i know, i did say that,

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i know, i did say that,
You said you may need one, I said you will need one [emoji16]

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56 minutes ago, Micro said:

You said you may need one, I said you will need one emoji16.png

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yeah so you did

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Welcome to "The Last Word" presented by [mention=99521]MCoop[/mention] [emoji23]
I've thoroughly enjoyed being a contestant.

I shouldn't have drunk my last cider [emoji16]

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Just now, Micro said:

I've thoroughly enjoyed being a contestant.

I shouldn't have drunk my last cider emoji16.png

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Plenty more on the way 

IMG-20191007-WA0003.thumb.jpg.39f576f5760847f3c99448d30c3469a1.jpgIMG-20191007-WA0003.thumb.jpg.39f576f5760847f3c99448d30c3469a1.jpg

IMG-20191007-WA0002.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, MCoop said:

ive read i need a 4 ohm resistor on each side,

I would go a little higher than 4 ohm. 21W bulbs at front and back, plus 5W for the side is 47W, less say 7W for your new LEDs, you need to lose about 40W. At 14v (typical running voltage), a 4.7 ohm resistor would do, and since the power is only ever on for 50% of the time or less, the 25W rating would be ok.

Those aluminium resistors need bolting to a metal surface to dissipate their rated power, they will get very hot with around 20W being dissipated in them. You can use a well earthed mounting bolt as the ground end for the resistor.

A separate resistor is a nuisance to mount and wire, but is actually much better than including the resistor inside the LED Bulbs. LEDs benefit from running cool, and a hot resistor is a very poor companion for them!

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56 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I would go a little higher than 4 ohm. 21W bulbs at front and back, plus 5W for the side is 47W, less say 7W for your new LEDs, you need to lose about 40W. At 14v (typical running voltage), a 4.7 ohm resistor would do, and since the power is only ever on for 50% of the time or less, the 25W rating would be ok.

Those aluminium resistors need bolting to a metal surface to dissipate their rated power, they will get very hot with around 20W being dissipated in them. You can use a well earthed mounting bolt as the ground end for the resistor.

A separate resistor is a nuisance to mount and wire, but is actually much better than including the resistor inside the LED bulbs. LEDs benefit from running cool, and a hot resistor is a very poor companion for them!

image.thumb.png.eade140ea08386fb1550c43db983a1e7.png

these are no good  i imafgine,   so the resistors  are  working all the time or just when flashing?

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image.thumb.png.eade140ea08386fb1550c43db983a1e7.png

these are no good  i imafgine,   so the resistors  are  working all the time or just when flashing?

Nope that is at best a 1/2w resistor. You need a big "power" resistor normally come in large rectangular metal or ceramic casings.

 

You'll need to look at a datasheet for the resistors to find their "peak" current/power rating, it'll only make heat when current is passing (i.e. lights on).

 

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1 minute ago, Micro said:

Nope that is at best a 1/2w resistor. You need a big "power" resistor normally come in large rectangular metal or ceramic casings.

 

You'll need to look at a datasheet for the resistors to find their "peak" current/power rating, it'll only make heat when current is passing (i.e. lights on).

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

i will  get the ones i linked  but up the resistance

 

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  • 7 months later...

Hello everyone plz i have a huge problem with my ford focus hatchback 1.i tdci 2008 with manual series written 7m5j-19A321-ADA ..i have lost my ecu in an accident and i m not able to start up the car without the correct ecu compatible serial number

how could i know the right serial number from the car engine parts ?!?!

Help plz

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  • 6 months later...

hi, i dont suppose you have connector views for all connectors in a 2015 ford focus st3? thanks

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  • 9 months later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

@Preee - I don't think the manual you linked covers the 1.6L DV6C engine in the mk3 2012 focus? 

Would you happen to have the wiring diagrams for this engine, in particular with relation to the injectors wiring?

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18 hours ago, Fordster1 said:

I don't think the manual you linked covers the 1.6L DV6C engine in the mk3 2012 focus? 

It should be on page 30 in the PDF. Overview (too small to read) attached.

dv6c-ecm.PNG

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5 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

It should be on page 30 in the PDF. Overview (too small to read) attached.

dv6c-ecm.PNG

Thanks for the reply. I looked at that diagram, the wire colours don't match my T1DA / T1DB engine, they're completely different wire colours. Seems Ford likes to confuse us, although it'sa Peugeot engine I believe so that would explain the wiring discrepancies, HaHa. French electrics, they can't even get the diagram correct. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Anybody have any idea what diagnostic tool to check individual injection quantity and correction? Neither Delphi/Autocom or ForScan has any options on the data list about in detail injection. I know of Ford's IDS and a Bosch diagnostic tool as more specialized for this ECU.

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  • 3 months later...

Links for drawings doesn't work anymore, can someone provide me the drawing for the mk3?

thanks in regards

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