Wappygixer Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 I need to replace the DMF in my 2006 MK3 mondeo. It's idling lumpy from a warm start and gives a metalic noise. It seems fine from cold. I suspect when its cold it contracts to make it sound and work OK. Once running and tickover revs are reached it drives OK but it is just getting it to reach tick over. Yesterday it stalled twice after I stopped at Tesco to do some shopping and when it first starts id idles very lumpy around 500rpm. I'm not happy about DMF but I always knew it was a gamble on a card of this milage and I paid a reasonable price for it. I have a Haynes manual to help me along the way. Having read up throught the manual is says about releasing the steering column in order to remove the subframe. Can anyone confirm if this is actually required? I have read others that have said they have removed the gearbox just by dropping one side of the subframe. This however I have read can damaged some of the bushed the the subframe mounts to. I'm doing this on the road side. I have axle stands and a couple of trolley jacks to help. I'm also going to look at the clutch while its apart. It's done 114K miles from new and has a full Ford history up until 106k miles, I'm the second owner. Can anyone suggest any issues I may face on the way or other things to look out for? Cheers for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying clutchman Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 I'm assuming your Mondeo is a diesel. If it's not then it's very unusual to have to replace the DMF. As regards releasing the steering shaft this is absolutely essential but very, very easy. It's a single 10mm headed bolt at the bottom of the shaft inside the car. Onece you've removed it the bracket pivots round and you can pull the shaft free. It's only neccessary to remove the nearside subframe bolts. You'll need to take off the gearchange turret(put a cloth in the hole to stop anything falling in) and you'll be able to pull the gearbox (with a lot of huffing and puffing) clear of the engine onto the wishbone. I've done scores of these and it still takes me 4-5 hours (petrol clutch only) or 6-7 hours (diesel clutch+DMF). I work normally at the roadside with axle stands like you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callumthemechanic Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Well!! I've just done this myself I'm a ford trained mechanic and I was taught to take the steering rack of compleetly but now not working for ford I work with 30 mondeos (diesel) I can say that you are right you can drop one side of the subframe undoing the 18 on the steering wrack through the wheel arch! It is very hard and will take you a lond time! By the sounds of it you could be having slave cylinder problems too make sure when you take it of have a look and see that it hasn't collapsed if so its 3 8m bolts on the inside of the bell housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Because of the work involved (and the expense if you pay someone else to do it) its normal to replace the clutch and CSC( (concentric) slave cylinder) as well if you are replacing the DMF (dual mass flywheel) If the clutch has already done 114k miles it would be a good idea to change it, ditto the CSC Normally it would cost £250- £400 or more for labour to get this done, (or 6-7 hours) you don't want to be doing it too often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callumthemechanic Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 It takes me around 4 hours with a 4 post ramp so a lot longer on the floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wappygixer Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Well it's all done and went well. Took quite a few hours due to getting stuck on a few things like removing the gear link cables.Haynes manual tells you to press the middle and pull but I found out you just pull lol. It already had a new clutch, csc and flywheel in it.These were all made by LUK. The flywheel did have some play in it but not much. This is the only part I replaced as the clutch had no wear to it. Changing my flywheel has not solved my problem unfortunately. It's going into Ford for a software update this week which I'm hoping will solve the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callumthemechanic Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Could just be an injector leaking off or not pressurising up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wappygixer Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 Cars now been a local garage who has IDS and a software update has calibrated something to do with the fuel pump pressures when warm. Car now runs sweet as and starts first turn even when warm. He checked my injectors too and thinks they are pretty new as his readings were very good. Changed my DMF for nothing really but at least I have peace of mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Cars now been a local garage who has IDS and a software update has calibrated something to do with the fuel pump pressures when warm. Car now runs sweet as and starts first turn even when warm. He checked my injectors too and thinks they are pretty new as his readings were very good. Changed my DMF for nothing really but at least I have peace of mind Its always annoying getting work done/ spending money you dont have to (ive seen a few horror stories about garages replacing £1000s of pounds worth of hardware (inc injectors etc) for it to be something cheap like the EGR)- should be good for a fair few mils now though If the old DMF is in good nick you should stick it on eBay - must be worth something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gama Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Hello all! Newbie here and this is my 1st post. I have a problem which has been diagnosed as dmf replacement. I have been quoted as £795 to do the job or should i shop around more? Is this about the right price for the job? I have a Haynes manual but i dont have the facility to do the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Price sounds about right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gama Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Price sounds about right Many Thanks for your response Stef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonah11 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hi. I did my dmf on my drive. If its your dmf that is on its way out it will give a sort of grinding noise when the clutch is half release. ( just before biting point ) at idle. I dropped passenger side sub frame and it damaged drivers side. Broke the weld of the nut inside the chasis. But dropped ghe gearbox. The hardest part was getting the clutch lined back up. Change the clutch aswell when you change dmf. I paid good money for mine and was the first job i had to do. Lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gama Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hello there. My problem is more simular to Wappygixer. I do think it's the DMF and will replace the Clutch CSC too and am intending to take this job on myself in the next week or two. The car has done +160k and is still on its original clutch and flywheel. Thanks for sharing your info with me Jonah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonah11 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 No probs. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dales Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I am going to look at a mk3 Mondeo tomorrow. Is there any tell tale signs I should be looking out for where the dmf is concerned. Sorry for jumping in on your post Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonah11 Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 What milage is on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dales Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 100000 miles roughly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wappygixer Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 It could be worth taking the car for a diagnostic update. My engine had a very metallic clunking which I really thought was the DMF going. The sensor that needed the software update to re-calibrate it was actually the cause. If you want to be doubly sure you can remove the starter motor and if it has metal filings on it it can be a sign the DMF is on its way out. I've no longer got my MK3 but I sold it to someone I know and it's still going strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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