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! Guide ! Installing A Sub Box To Mk7


TitaniumSteve
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I am writing this guide in addition to my first guide to help others if they want to install a sub box into the Mk7 using a RCA convertor to create pre amps out.

Firstly I will add that this is not a simple job and I would not advise this to be done by a novice. How ever I hope my guide will make it easier for anyone trying to do the same. Also I will add for those that are screamish :lol: this does invole taking apart a 3 week old car, but absolutly no damage was done to my new little car.

So here we go.

Take out the front head unit, refer to my FIRST guide to do this. Once you have the head unit out you will have to disconnect two multi blocks from the rear of the unit, disconnect both and remove head unit to a safe place. The smaller multi block is just data cables. The connection you are interested in is the larger multiblock. When you look the block you will see 5 pairs of wires top n bottom plus a single cable on its own. The single cable on its own is the ignition live (only goes live when ignition is on). At the other end of the block you will see two fatter cables, the cable with black on it is the ground, and the other is the permannet live. The other eight cables which are a variety of colours are the speaker cables. The top row is the positive and bottom is negative.

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Now take your RCA convertor on it you will have two positive speaker cables and two negative speaker cables. To avoid cutting cables you can push a bare end cable into the back of the multi blocks so push two positive into the top row and two positive into the bottom row. It is not important which speaker connection you use just as long as you use the same for both neg and pos. On your RCA convertor you will also have a positive and negative cable, again push the bare end cable from your RCA convertor into the appropriate neg and pos connection on the multi block. Now with your ampilifier kit you will be supplied with a long blue remote live cable, this cable is pushed into the back of the ignition live cable (the single cable on the multi block), this will mean your amp will on go on when your ignition is on.

Next you will have to feed your RCA cables, (supplied with your amp), your blue remote cable and your power cable to the rear of the car. First tie off your RCA cable and remote cable to something at the head unit so you dont pull them through.

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It is fairly easy to feed your RCA cables and your remote cable down from the head unit to the floor. You can then tuck them in behind the carpet, and lead them to the small side panel on the passenger side.

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Now you can take your main min 8 gauge power cable and connect it to the battery.

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Then this cable can be fed down through a hole next to the washer bottle which will bring it out by the inner arch wheel trim. Thread it round the arch, and by the door hinge you will see some foam sound insulation, this can be moved to the side so the cable can be fed through the hinge to the interior.

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Now lift up the rubber waterproof trim and feed 3 cables along it, the power cable the RCA cable and the remote cable, and they will now come out by the rear seats.

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It is now possible to pass all 3 cables along the side of the back seat so that they come out in the boot.

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Now just when you thought you were done you now have to create an Earth cable, this should be as short as possible and taken from the rear. I used one of the 13mm bolts that hold seat belt mounting in. Simple take out bolt connect your earth cable and put bolt back in.

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Now the fun bit connect all those cable up to your amp. I am using a active sub, meaning the amp is bulit into the sub box. To test it temporarily reconnect the front head unit and dash and power it up to see if it all works, (remember to turn on your ignition).

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It should all now come on. With me it all worked first time, I was very pround of myself.

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You can now put the car carefully back together. I did this whole job without a single scratch and no damage to the car at all, the entire system could be taken out without any sign that had been there.

I hope this guide has been of some use. Any questions then please ask.

Steve

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Wicked guide. I'm considering doing it.. what SUB did you use and how much did it cost?

I want to see how to initial Speakers sound first. Also, how much room did it take in your boot - Can you upload a photo of your boot now please?

Thanks.

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Very nice Steve. Just out of interest, is that red power cable visible around the passenger door frame?

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OK so I'm now looking very hard into different subs and alike. I'm looking in perticular at this one:

Vibe CBR12 Active Evo Subwoofer

Would this fit the bill?

Also, What kind of difference does it make to the overall audio? Is it a significant improvement over the already existing sound (i.e. is it a £200 improvement?) lol.

My friends have installed a sub before (granted in a corsa) so i will have some help - I would go for Halfords 'WeFit' but I'm nervous they will scratch things and do a bodge job anyway.

Still in 2 minds - Will mull it over with father tomorrow - He always has words of wisdom.

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Very nice Steve. Just out of interest, is that red power cable visible around the passenger door frame?

At the moment it is visible about 3 inch of it, however I am going to be fitting some black trunking to go over it. I would have done it today just forgot.

OK so I'm now looking very hard into different subs and alike. I'm looking in perticular at this one:

Vibe CBR12 Active Evo Subwoofer

Would this fit the bill?

Also, What kind of difference does it make to the overall audio? Is it a significant improvement over the already existing sound (i.e. is it a £200 improvement?) lol.

My friends have installed a sub before (granted in a corsa) so i will have some help - I would go for halfords 'WeFit' but I'm nervous they will scratch things and do a bodge job anyway.

Still in 2 minds - Will mull it over with father tomorrow - He always has words of wisdom.

It is funny you should mention that speaker set up, as it is the 10 inch version I have. Picture below shows the boot, I would say that the 12 inch would be to big better going for 10 inch. I have not driven car since I fitted the unit, so i have only listen to it whilst I was testing it out and yes I am very happy with the sound, not sure if I would spend £200 on doing it thro. I had this unit spare in my garage has I took it out of my other car, my other car I have just built a fully customised £600 boot install for it. It was not worth selling this unit so into the fezzer it went, this unit cost £150.

And no don't go anywhere near Halfords for doing this job, unless you want a spotty 18 year old poking screwdrivers around the paintwork of your new car.

Image0039.jpg

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Yea probably true. Not much boot space - Although I don't really have anything to carry. Lol.

I will have to wait and see what I think of the normal Speakers.

Thanks for all the info tho Steve!

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Cheers Steve, is there no way of bringing the power cable straight into the car from the front?

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Cheers Steve, is there no way of bringing the power cable straight into the car from the front?

I looked into taking it thro the bulkhead but without taking out the glove box this would be hard. All the cables passing thro the bulkhead are above the height of the glove box. The cable I have installed is barely visible and will be even better with trunking on it. There may be another way to bring the cable inside as I did not spend ages looking but I am happy with the way I done it, if you find another easier way let me know.

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Thanks for the reply Steve, please post a pic when you have trunking, ta

Jon

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Amazing guide :) but i still dont get why people want to take up all their boot space with a huge sub :P

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Amazing guide :) but i still dont get why people want to take up all their boot space with a huge sub :P

Coz it's the biz wiv all that booming, innit. ;)

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Just done my first day working in my car with my sub on in between lesson and my sound system sounds so much better than the original one. That is why plp do it because it makes what u are listening to sound pleasurable and not tiney. Anyway its not like I need the boot to carry a fridge around in it and there is plenty of space for the shopping.

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I'm looking at the exact same sub you have Steve for £139 from HERE! What do you think?

I would install it myself - but am a perfectionist and would not want ANY wires to be showing ANYWHERE without using ANY trunking etc.

Also, could you point the sub sideways to free up more room in your car. How is the sub secured to the boot so it doesn't roll around?

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couple of things, i know i haven't posted much so i hope you don't mind, with the power cable running next to the audio cable you are likely to get a slight whistling sound as you accelerate from the subwoofer. the best way to avoid it is to run the cables either on opposite sides or run one up the middle of the car and the other down the side.

is that power cable fused? if not i would get a fuse in their sharpish, no point paying out good money for a car and audio equipment and frying it when you get a voltage peak and burn out the power cable to the amplifier. as you said, it runs passed sound proofing which is quite combustible.

one last thing, why point the sub to the rear of the car? just makes the boot vibrate and makes a decent guitar riff sound crap if turned up.

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I realy want to install a sub into the back. The space isn't an issue so I don't mind that. I am however apprihensive to installing the sub - I would get Halfords to do it for me but it's rediculously priced. I'm going to order the same sub as Steve (£159 I think?).

Where did you get your sub from Steve?

Do you think Halfords would install a sub I didn't buy directly from them?

Would Halfords make a mess of my new beauty?

Does the sub effect the insurance?

It's the wiring I'm worried about, such as where the power cable goes etc..

I would also mount the sub sideways to save space... And possibly put it on the 40% seat split to allow the 60% seat to be folded down and utalised if needed.

I think the installation will be a bit tricky though.

Any tips or things I will need specifically? Thanks!!

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if you need a hand mate, pop round to mine (after the weekend as im going off-roading) i've done a few installs. i'll let you do the bits, as you will know what you are doing then. i'll help you out with the positioning of wires and routing and sort all the connections and any difficult bits for you. im only in brum, kings norton. im not a rip off merchant like halfrauds either!

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couple of things, i know i haven't posted much so i hope you don't mind, with the power cable running next to the audio cable you are likely to get a slight whistling sound as you accelerate from the subwoofer. the best way to avoid it is to run the cables either on opposite sides or run one up the middle of the car and the other down the side.

is that power cable fused? if not i would get a fuse in their sharpish, no point paying out good money for a car and audio equipment and frying it when you get a voltage peak and burn out the power cable to the amplifier. as you said, it runs passed sound proofing which is quite combustible.

one last thing, why point the sub to the rear of the car? just makes the boot vibrate and makes a decent guitar riff sound crap if turned up.

Hi,

You are absolutly right about the power cable it is meant to be on a different side to the control cables I meant to put this in my write up. I was aware of this when I was doin the job however I wanted to keep the job fairly simple and has my car has dual controls fitted to it already I did not have to worry about upsetting the carpet on both sides etc. Plus it is only a 'maybe' that you will get interference has it depends on all sought of this, like how well car is earthed, how well it is screened from other cables plus how good the quality of the cable is. This is proven with my set up as I have been driving with sub installed for couple of days now and I have absolutly no interference at all.

Point 2. Of course the power cable is fused this this I assumed was basic. My guide was not meant to be a full degree course it is a guide. There is loads and loads of detail I could have gone into has I have been installing sound system in cars for 20 years, but I did not have time to write a thesis.

point 3. It makes no diffrence at all as to which way you point the subs as bass is non directional, what will make the car vibrate is if it is turned up to loud and if the car does not have sound insulation. I will repeat this is a very basic install it is not meant to be a full boot install it cost £150 hardly a pro install, my other car I have recently spent hundreds and hundreds of pounds and several weekends setting up with a full boot install. My fiesta is my works car and I only installed the sub to 'enhance' the sound not to take to a ICE show.

My guide was only to help plp out as it is a new desighn car and I assumed nobody would know how to take them apart confidently, I was merely trying to help out. :D

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ok, no worries, i was just pointing out a few things. as some may not be aware.

try turn it round and check the difference, some cars it does make a difference as the bass reverberates on the bootlid. most of which are hollow so make a nasty sound. some cars or ears will hardly notice it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Steve,

I Thought Your Step By Step Was Top Job, Just Finishing Wiring It Up To Me 1.6 TDCi Zetec-S,

Just Two Quick Questions,

Does It Matter If I Go Through Either The Front Or Rear Speakers For An RCA Point?,

Ive Taken the Out Put From The Rear Speakers?,

And Which Settings Have you Got The Headunit On?, I Just Seem To Be Getting Alot Of Bass From The Front Only get the Sub Coming In Small Amounts lol,

Sounds Gud Atm But Want Abit More From The Rear, Could You Help?,

Thanks Again Steve,

Regards,

Rob

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Can anyone tell me wires are for the front Speakers and which are the rear. I want to make sure my sub is on the front Speakers as sometimes I fade sound to the front only as it gets too loud for passengers in the rear.

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  • 1 month later...
I'm looking at the exact same sub you have Steve for £139 from HERE! What do you think?

I would install it myself - but am a perfectionist and would not want ANY wires to be showing ANYWHERE without using ANY trunking etc.

Also, could you point the sub sideways to free up more room in your car. How is the sub secured to the boot so it doesn't roll around?

You can now get an adaptor for active subs, which means that you can simply plug the sub in and it will work, leaving all the wires where they are. This will mean that you can have the extra boot space when you need it and its very easily installed. I htink they only cost about 10 pounds if even. SHould be on the Halfords website.

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  • 4 weeks later...

is it possible to run the power cable through the wing and then in through the door gromet which runs the electric window cables from door - car? thats the way we usually puy them in... bit fiddly but least it hides the cables...

i didnt want to loose boot space so im looking at the pioneer TS-WX11A as it fits under the passangers seat... not massive bass but its the best of both worlds... comes with the stereo to rca convertor and the amp is built in... only downside! the price!!!

also considered the TS-WX77A but its stupid money!!

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