Darren Zs Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 There is a way to bring it in to the car where it isn't visible, go back from the battery and under the bonnet hinge then when you pull the rubber door seal back and look under the glove box there's a rubber grommet that you can remove and feed it down the outer skin, it's a bit tedious however I found it much better than having bare wire showing Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Max Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Bringing this thread back from the dead. I'm upgrading the sounds in my Mk7.5 3 door Fiesta ZS. Keeping the factory stereo (not the Sony one). I've decided to replace the front Speakers including tweeters with Pioneer Speakers I've had a few years. I'm running new cables 1.5mm to my 4 channel amp which I plan to put under the passenger seat. My question is what to do with the other 2 channels of the amp. I had planned to replace the rear 2 Speakers too and run them from the amp but I'm wondering if I'd be better using it for a sub instead. If I do get a sub I'd look for an under seat one as don't want to lose any boot. So if I use the amp to power the fronts and a sub have I lost my rear 2 speakers or can you split the rear speaker wires to feed the amp input and direct to the back speakers too? For info my amp has high level inputs so don't need and RCA adapter. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFriendlyBambi Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Hey, ik you said its not anovice job but im confidient i can do this, i was wondering if you can link me everything i need?? I have already found a sub with built in amp and wiring kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deivisssu Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 One question so your Speakers working both? because mine working only front Speakers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevuk85 Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Nice Guide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarbyonline Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Nice guide, but I'd like to add a few bits having installed a few systems over the years (I'll be doing a Mk7 guide myself in the next week or so with a totally different setup). Not criticism, just some pointers which might help others. Rather than connecting the cable to the battery terminal itself, there is a fused distribution block at the side of the battery under the red flap with spare terminals - makes for a neater looking installation as you can feed the cable down the side and around the battery. All you need is a spare nut (iirc its an M10) As someone else has pointed out there is a grommet in the side of the passenger door that can be used to pass the power cable through. Replace the grommet with an equivalent sized rubber one and pierce though rather than using the plasticy ford one. 8 AWG cable may not be necessary for all situations. Higher powered amps will need 4 awg whereas lower will get away with 10 awg. 8 awg is a good starting point though! Shoving the speaker cable into the back of the existing connector isn't a great idea. As someone else has pointed out, you can get a T-Harness (sometimes called a SOT Harness or loom) which gives you an entire set of cabling to play with without touching the factory wiring. This means you can make solid connections by soldering or crimping. Mine cost about £10. A lot of amps these days have line level inputs so you don't need a line level converter. Check if your chosen amp does as it could save a bit of hassle (and the price of the line level converter) Cheap unbranded wiring kits should be avoided - they are cheap for a reason and can affect the sound quality (especially RCA's). I wouldn't personally use the seat belt mounting bolts for earth and indeed some amp manufacturers discourage this in their documentation. If you do use one of these bolts ensure it is torqued to the correct specification. Whatever you do, as the OP says in one of the replies, make sure the main power cable has a suitably rated fuse inline close to the battery. This is a safety measure so that the fuse kills the power if for any reason the cable gets broken and touches metal such as your cars body (for instance in an accident) so the closer you can get it to the battery without being ridiculous the better really. The last thing anyone wants or needs is their battery dumping its entire charge into the body of the car. The fuse in the amplifier is NOT a substitute for this! As with anything electrical, if you are unsure about what you are doing just don't bother doing it. Safety first! As above I hope to do a guide myself shortly showing a way of adding an amp to the stock Speakers as well as an additional sub (which involves both a 4-channel and a monoblock amp), but it requires a very specific kit (so not just any amplifiers). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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