replaced fuel filter CAN'T START

[Tdci-Peter]

4 hours ago, Ladiesman020 said:

Do you meen the sender unit on top of fuel tank

I think the tank vent valve is separate from that. I was not really serious about pressurising the fuel tank, it might be quite a good way to locate leaks, but would probably be practically impossible. (I did it once just by lung power, to prime a petrol Sierra that had run out of petrol, but only for a few seconds!)

However, as the fuel pipes come out of the top of the tank sender unit, that is a starting place for possible leaks. Any pipe that is above the normal fuel level in the tank is suspect. But the ones in the engine bay are the most likely. due to the higher temperatures.

Though also have a look under the car for any visible impact damage to the pipes, or areas near them. A parts diagram I found for a mk1 Focus fuel system is below, from:

https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/42/no/23/1559/15555/67849/

It may not be 100% right, but might help. The second fuel filter (lower one) is for the fuel fired heater option, and can be ignored.

[Guest]

The car ain't been a problem for 3 days soo I'm not gonna ***** about with the sender unit or filter, but I might check the fuel lines underneath, hoses for leaks and do a leak off test on the injectors.

[stef123]

brim the filter and get the brake cleaner out lol 

[Guest]

The skinny version: car majorly died, been dead almost 2 weeks, AA patrol mans diagnostic tablet came up with fault code ' P0251 - injector fuel metering control pump A (Can/rotor/injector) '

Also his diagnostics said the fuel pressure was coming out at 1.5bar

There was TONS of vibration when cranking, it idled for a few mins a couple of times before dying

It could be a inlet metering valve on side of fuel pump but I'm thinking it needs a new/recon high pressure pump.

I'm asking can I remove the pump without having to lock the can/crank shafts and remove the timing belt.

[Tdci-Peter]

10 hours ago, Ladiesman020 said:

can I remove the pump without having to lock the can/crank shafts and remove the timing belt.

The lower camshaft belt pulley is bolted direct on to the fuel pump chain sprocket, so will have to be unbolted and moved out of the way. If great care is taken to ensure the belt does not slip a tooth at either end, and the pulley / sprocket and chain can be replaced exactly as removed, then you might be able to avoid the fiddly re-timing job. But it may not be easy, as access is limited.

I think I would replace the IMV first anyway, as this is a lot cheaper. The symptoms match a failed IMV, it can prevent the pump generating any useful pressure. If there is no metal in the fuel filter, you may be lucky and the pump is ok.

[Guest]

EuroCarParts have IMV/FPR for £107 with discount and I've seen them on eBay for £65-£100

PF Jones are doing recon pumps for £300, soo I don't wanna waste money on a imv when its a bad pump that needs doing.

Also wouldn't a recon pump unit have a new IMV on it

Ideas?

I also cut a trap door in the metal above the sender unit using a SoniCrafter.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Focus_1.8_2003/p/car-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-parts/engine-management-switches/?443590030&1&2f3e7013b0fe285295b30f4beda42c03dcdb408e&000477

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/ford-focus-tdci-1.8-2001-2004-reconditioned-delphi-common-rail-pump-9044a016b.html

[Tdci-Peter]

53 minutes ago, Ladiesman020 said:

I don't wanna waste money on a imv when its a bad pump that needs doing.

Yeah, that is always the difficult decision. I have seen Delphi IMVs down to about £50, but it is the labour that is the big difference, it is a lot of work to remove the pump, even if the timing does not need re-adjusting after.

A re-con pump will come with either a new IMV, or at least one that is tested to work ok.

A couple of relatively simple tests that could be done are to check the resistance of the IMV coil, it should be below 150 ohms and stable, but not a dead short. Also probing the signal to the IMV while it is energised, to check for broken wires etc. Usually these valves have to be energised to raise the fuel pressure, so should energise during cranking, or just with ignition on.

If you can see in the tank with the sender unit removed, you could check for metal particles in there too. On my car the fuel return pipes go to the tank, not to the filter, so any swarf from a breaking up pump would go to the tank first. You should be able to follow the return pipes from pump and injectors on your car to see where they go. The diagram I found above shows it going to the tank.

Another test might be to crank while measuring the return flow from the pump. If this is quite high, then the IMV is big suspect, as it is there divert the flow from the 1st stage of the pump into the 2nd, high pressure, stage. When the IMV is open, the flow from the 1st stage just goes back to the tank, not into the 2nd stage.

A lack of return flow, from both injectors and pump, would suggest either the pump (1st stage) is worn, or there is air getting in, or a fuel line blockage.

[Guest]

I might get the IMV from ECP cos then if it still don't run i can get me money back ;)

[Guest]

I got a new Delphi IMV, fitted it and its not made a difference, the car still won't run.

I'm out of ideas.

[Guest]

Update: I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and it has not worked. The car won't start. Soo I'm all out of ideas and I will just scrap the thing.

[Greg Isherwood]

I've just changed my fuel filter in my 1800 TDCi and am now experiencing the same problem as everyone above. There's no bulb to prime the system. 

Would towing the car in gear rectify / prime the air lock out of the system ?

Would towing the car in gear cause any damage to the fuel system ?

[andypsp]

11 minutes ago, Greg Isherwood said:

I've just changed my fuel filter in my 1800 TDCi and am now experiencing the same problem as everyone above. There's no bulb to prime the system. 

Would towing the car in gear rectify / prime the air lock out of the system ?

Would towing the car in gear cause any damage to the fuel system ?

you need to get the air out of the fuel system for it to start again

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Greg Isherwood said:

Would towing the car in gear rectify / prime the air lock out of the system ?

Yes, Probably, if there is no other problem.

 

3 hours ago, Greg Isherwood said:

Would towing the car in gear cause any damage to the fuel system ?

Yes, it is quite possible! Especially if for more than a few seconds. The pump absolutely relies on being lubricated by fuel, so prolonged rotation without fuel will cause permanent damage.

A priming pump is the only way. Keep pumping fuel hard into the inlet (tank) side of the fuel filter until first: No air comes out of the vent valve on top of the filter, and then second: Crank the engine while maintaining pressure on the filter (needs 2 people really!), and it should start. Once air gets into the 1st stage of that pump, it is the very devil to drive out.

Oh, and I definitely do not advise the old "cracking the injector unions" trick. This is a very, very bad idea on a high pressure common rail system. The high pressure side of the system is self-priming, and messing with the unions can allow fine metal swarf into the injectors, and cause permanent leaks on the HP metal to metal pipe seals. It may have been good for older mechanical injector systems, but not for HPCR.