Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

[coreykelly]

I’m getting an error code P0229 overboost/underboost and P1102. When I’m driving down the motorway at 70m/h, message is coming up engine system fault. The car goes into limp mode and won’t go past 3k in any gear. Also it’s blowing out a lot of smoke from the exhaust. Anyone any ideas ??

[Tdci-Peter]

8 hours ago, coreykelly said:

P0229 overboost/underboost and P1102. When I’m driving down the motorway at 70m/h, message is coming up engine system fault. The car goes into limp mode and won’t go past 3k in any gear. Also it’s blowing out a lot of smoke from the exhaust.

A bit of a mix of info there! P0299 (Underboost) and P0229 (Throttle Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent) are very much muddled up on the internet.

A 1.6TDCI does have a throttle in the intake, it can be used with the EGR valve & at switch off. Sometimes called the anti-shudder valve. If this was sticking it could cause P0229 and make the MAF read low (P1102) and make smoke.

Some 1.6TDCIs also have an intercooler bypass valve, close to the throttle valve. I suspect it is mainly used during DPF regen. This might cause the same symptoms if it was not fully opening when the throttle closed.

Other causes are blocked air filter, and dirty or faulty MAF sensor.

It is also worth checking the intake hoses from turbo via intercooler to inlet manifold, though leaks here do not really stack up with P0229 or P1102.

[Munti]

Can anyone help with a child lock? I have a child lock clip that does nothing. Just flops around just purchased the car it was an oversight on my half not checking this. I believe the clip is broken how would I go about fixing this

[raftopoua]

On 11/10/2013 at 8:31 PM, artscot79 said:

Dash displays stay lit after the car is locked for between 20-40 minutes the ecu remains live storing vehicle data for this period of time monitoring under bonnet temperatures once the ecu shuts down the display remains off displays which stay on for long periods such as overnight usually have pcm issues which bbereman can repair cheap

 

Hi guys,

I have this issue in my Focus 1.4 2005 model. Who is bbereman ?

Regards,

Angelos

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, raftopoua said:

Who is bbereman ?

http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/index.aspx

I would guess.

But primary suspects with odometer staying lit are the radio / audio system, bluetooth adapters, and other add-on gadgets. I would suggest fully disconnecting (at the connectors, not just the fuse) all non-essential items like this as part of an elimination process, before blaming the ecu.

[raftopoua]

Thank you very much for the reply,

I will try first to remove fuse 107 and check if this cures the problem.

 

[raftopoua]

So...

I have removed fuse no46 which made the cluster turn off.

I have also removed fuse no58 which made the audio unit turn off.

However I still have a drain of 180mA.

I think that the ignition barrel doesn’t give the signal to make the ecu to go to sleep.

Would it be possible to put a manual switch to shut down it?

Any ideas?

PS: I have a Focus 1.4 LX 2005 model with a key ignition

[Tdci-Peter]

39 minutes ago, raftopoua said:

the signal to make the ecu to go to sleep.

 

Would it be possible to put a manual switch to shut down it?

The ECU gets permanent power from various connections to the engine bay fuse box, and the signals to power it down will come digitally over the HS-CAN bus from the cluster. So there is no simple manual way to force it to shut down. If it is powered down by removing its fuses, or disconnecting the battery, it may forget its adaptions and have to re-learn each time, with some effect on fuel consumption and driving.

The ECU is not directly shut down by turning off the ignition, it can have important jobs to do after stopping the engine, like testing the EGR, or keeping a cooling fan running. It turns itself off by de-energising the engine management relay (R6 in the engine bay fuse box) when it has completed all jobs, and has received correct data from the cluster about shut down.

The cluster is a gateway to the MS-CAN bus, which is connected to all the interior electronics. Thus any interior electronics which is giving erroneous signals on the bus can keep the cluster from shutting down (odometer light on), and this in turn can prevent the ECU from shutting down.

That is why I suggested physically disconnecting units on the MS-CAN bus, like the radio, parking aid, tow module, etc. To completely remove them from the CAN bus system.

One useful test is to identify R6, and see if if is remaining energised long after ignition off. This relay powers several current consuming sensors and systems around the engine.

[raftopoua]

Thank you very much for the reply Peter.

Just to be clear about the problem: The battery drains overnight. When I remove the key from the ignition barrel, the dash lit and the audio remain on continuously.

I have tried to take out the stereo but failed and that is why I have removed the fuse.

What I am thinking is to add a switch to the cable that is getting the power from the probably broken microswitch of the ignition barrel. Would that be a good idea?

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, raftopoua said:

The battery drains overnight. When I remove the key from the ignition barrel, the dash lit and the audio remain on continuously.

Yes, I see now. You suspect the Aux power is not turning off.

One quick test is: does the radio go off while cranking (starting)?. On almost all Fords, including Mk2 Focus, the Aux power is turned off at the ignition switch when it is turned to start position.

The fuse in the Aux supply to the radio is F68 (F108 in later fuseboxes), Measuring the voltage on this fuse will test if the Aux supply from the ignition switch is being turned off. Also removing it should make the radio shut down.

Modern radios / audio heads take their power from the battery live supply, they only use the ignition controlled supply as a control input to tell them when to turn on or shut down. So a fault in the radio remains a possibility until F68 has been investigated.

If removing F68 makes it all shut down, then adding a switch in series with this fuse could solve the problem. F68 also supplies power to the cluster.

 

[raftopoua]

Good morning Peter and thank you for your support so far.

F68 removal is not making anything shut off. So there is not a simple fix…
I will have to change the ignition barrel probably.
If anyone know where to find a guide please point me to this direction. I have also ordered Haynes manual, so hopefully I will manage to fix the problem.

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, raftopoua said:

F68 removal is not making anything shut off. So there is not a simple fix…
I will have to change the ignition barrel probably.

If removing F68 has no effect, then the fault must almost certainly be in the radio. F68 (Or F108 in later fuseboxes) is directly in line with the ignition switch Aux supply, so it would not matter if this switch was jammed on, removing F68 will kill the supply.

If the fault was in the cluster, then it would less likely to make the radio stay on. But if the radio stays on, it has been known to keep the cluster on, and maybe the ECU.

The only other possibility is that something is feeding power into the Aux wire after F68. But until the radio can be unplugged, it will be almost impossible to tell.

In the drawing below, FJB is the engine bay fusebox, the part of the box at the bottom left is the passenger fuse box, F108 is F68 in the earlier type fusebox, and the box on the right is the radio. Terminal 75 on the ignition switch is the Aux supply terminal.

[raftopoua]

Hi Peter,

what you have suggested saddly is not a solution to the problem.

However, I have now permanetely removed the fuse no46 for about 5 days and the battery is not draining overnight. The car is usable again!!
I will have to find a better solution thought which is probably to change the ignition barrel.

No side effects in the way the car is drining by the removal of the fuse.

[CGGR]

On 28/12/2017 at 2:40 PM, coreykelly said:

I’m getting an error code P0229 overboost/underboost and P1102. When I’m driving down the motorway at 70m/h, message is coming up engine system fault. The car goes into limp mode and won’t go past 3k in any gear. Also it’s blowing out a lot of smoke from the exhaust. Anyone any ideas ??

Morning bud,

 

I'm new around here, literally signed up yesterday haha. The issues your mentioning reflect very similarly to an issue I had which was then resolved with a full service inc. Fuel Filter (sorry!) - Over and above this I then had the DPF removed, Turbo Pipes replaced as they'd all worn over time from jubilee clips pressure (only did this as a friend who'd also had a DPF removed and Stage 1 remap then had his boost pipes blow off because of the increased strain.... that would scare the life out of me... No power/ limp mode that you speak of and a hell of a lot of smoke).

 

Don't if that will help but atleast worth mentioning to someone with a bit more technical knowledge.

 

[Caldicott1]

Currently having a problem with my focus. Engine light came on recently, and car started juddering whilst idle & revs going up and down. Started to cut out once starting too. Wondering if anyone has any ideas what this may be?

Thanks

[RichardAllen]

Hi there.

I wonder if anyone is able to help me with some issues with (what I presume are) the electrics on my Focus.  I was getting judder/loss of power on acceleration, also I have intermittent Instrument cluster failure, various warning lights appearing then turning off and speedo/rev counter/temp and fuel gauges all affected. Further to this it can fail to start, does not even turn over, just a "click" sound then nothing.  I've had new coils and leads and spark plugs fitted, with no improvements and yesterday it started to develop a misfire and a pronounced loss of power/judder and sounds like its running on 2 or 3 cylinders. Clearly it needs another trip to the mechanic but wondered if any of you would have an idea of the likely culprit(s) to my problems.

Many thanks in advance.

[TomsFocus]

4 hours ago, RichardAllen said:

Hi there.

I wonder if anyone is able to help me with some issues with (what I presume are) the electrics on my Focus.  I was getting judder/loss of power on acceleration, also I have intermittent Instrument cluster failure, various warning lights appearing then turning off and speedo/rev counter/temp and fuel gauges all affected. Further to this it can fail to start, does not even turn over, just a "click" sound then nothing.  I've had new coils and leads and spark plugs fitted, with no improvements and yesterday it started to develop a misfire and a pronounced loss of power/judder and sounds like its running on 2 or 3 cylinders. Clearly it needs another trip to the mechanic but wondered if any of you would have an idea of the likely culprit(s) to my problems.

Many thanks in advance.

I would say the instrument cluster needs fixing before anything else, it's a common issue on these as the solder breaks.  The immobiliser runs through it which is why it affects starting amongst other things.  Won't be causing the misfire though, as coils, plugs and leads haven't fixed it, I'd suggest getting the fault codes read before trying any more parts.

[Tdci-Peter]

6 hours ago, RichardAllen said:

I was getting judder/loss of power on acceleration, also I have intermittent Instrument cluster failure, various warning lights appearing then turning off and speedo/rev counter/temp and fuel gauges all affected. Further to this it can fail to start, does not even turn over, just a "click" sound then nothing.  I've had new coils and leads and spark plugs fitted, with no improvements

I agree with Tom. 2006 is the classic year for the Focus Instrument cluster (IC) bad solder joint problem. It can be a very cheap fix, I just re-soldered a few joints. A Ford dealer will replace it with a new one for at least £800. Putting in a 2nd hand one is not a good option as it has to be programmed to match the ECU and your keys. Repair is the simplest option.

Reading the codes with a good, Ford specific system like Forscan may show lots of U codes, these are communication errors due to the bad joint.

The engine problem sounds unrelated, though there are possible links as a lot of information for the ECU passes through the IC. So it is worth reading the codes and getting the IC fixed first.

I did a PDF on my IC problem, there are several YouTubes on it also.

It is here: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

[RichardAllen]

19 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I would say the instrument cluster needs fixing before anything else, it's a common issue on these as the solder breaks.  The immobiliser runs through it which is why it affects starting amongst other things.  Won't be causing the misfire though, as coils, plugs and leads haven't fixed it, I'd suggest getting the fault codes read before trying any more parts.

 

17 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I agree with Tom. 2006 is the classic year for the Focus Instrument cluster (IC) bad solder joint problem. It can be a very cheap fix, I just re-soldered a few joints. A Ford dealer will replace it with a new one for at least £800. Putting in a 2nd hand one is not a good option as it has to be programmed to match the ECU and your keys. Repair is the simplest option.

Reading the codes with a good, Ford specific system like Forscan may show lots of U codes, these are communication errors due to the bad joint.

The engine problem sounds unrelated, though there are possible links as a lot of information for the ECU passes through the IC. So it is worth reading the codes and getting the IC fixed first.

I did a PDF on my IC problem, there are several YouTubes on it also.

It is here: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

Hi Peter and Tom

Many thanks for the prompt replies. Its off to the mechanics this morning so hopefully these issues can be resolved quickly.  The also car suffers from water ingress into the spark plug chambers so I'm not sure if this has caused some issues related to misfire/performance issues as well.

The info you have supplied is really useful as it will help me explain the issues to the mechanic.

Thanks again

 

[JSFocus]

I've got a intermittent fault with the cigar. lighter fuse constantly blowing off after charging a mobile phone is this happened with you guys? My car is 07 plate 1.8 Tdci

Also got a massive vibration when on idle probably clutch on the way as it getting worse since i bought the car 2 years ago currently with 95.500m

Regards,

[Tdci-Peter]

21 hours ago, JSFocus said:

Also got a massive vibration when on idle probably clutch on the way

If that was the DMF, I would have thought it would be audible, they usually clank or rattle. There is a video of this in:

(If you can not open the video I have a copy in MP4 format I could upload, though it would take a long time!)

Have a listen down near the nearside front wheel arch. It is usually most audible there.

If there is no clear thumping or clanking, then have a good look at the three engine mounts. Another possible cause of rough idle would be fuel or injector problems. Try rolling along in gear (1st, 2nd & 3rd on a flatish road), without touching the throttle pedal. It should pull smoothly (once it is going). Mine does.

I think I had problems with a cigar lighter / power point once, a long time ago. It is usually when the metal contact strips inside get bent or damaged, and can short together, especially when pulling out an adapter.

.

[JSFocus]

1 hour ago, Tdci-Peter said:

If that was the DMF, I would have thought it would be audible, they usually clank or rattle. There is a video of this in:

(If you can not open the video I have a copy in MP4 format I could upload, though it would take a long time!)

Have a listen down near the nearside front wheel arch. It is usually most audible there.

If there is no clear thumping or clanking, then have a good look at the three engine mounts. Another possible cause of rough idle would be fuel or injector problems. Try rolling along in gear (1st, 2nd & 3rd on a flatish road), without touching the throttle pedal. It should pull smoothly (once it is going). Mine does.

I think I had problems with a cigar lighter / power point once, a long time ago. It is usually when the metal contact strips inside get bent or damaged, and can short together, especially when pulling out an adapter.I

 

Quote

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f i release the clutch pedal a clanking noise is audible, also when the weather was colder, the first start wasn't smooth and a bit of white smoke was coming out and bit rough on idle, then after driving was normal it was only on cold start

Thanks for the tips Peter, 

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, JSFocus said:

when the weather was colder, the first start wasn't smooth and a bit of white smoke was coming out and bit rough on idle, then after driving was normal it was only on cold start

My 1.8, when asked to start below about 5 deg.C, puts out loads of smoke, is a bit rough and sounds like a bag of nails. It settles down in less than a minute, and quietens down after half a mile of driving, once the engine gets to somewhere above 20 deg.C.

I replaced 2 glowplugs last year, one was really dead, but rain stopped play then, and I have not got round to testing or removing the other two yet! Also it has done 166k miles. Most of the time it still drives very nicely though. So I do not blame it for not liking cold starts, I feel just the same myself!

[thor1]

I have ford focus 2.0 titanium (2006) which I have had from new it as done 45.000 miles, last week engine light came on took it to a garage they reset the codes light went off, but within 10 minutes it was back on, car seems to be running perfect, as anyone any suggestions

[Ferrit]

Without knowing what the codes are it could literally be anything. Do you know what the codes were?