Tdci-Peter Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 4 hours ago, Jurpp said: on my Focus locking the doors DID flash the turn signals but it just randomly stopped doing it one day I just checked my (UK) owners manual. On normal (single) locking it says "On vehicles without double locking, the indicators will flash twice". On double locking it says the "indicators will flash twice". So it should depend on whether the car has the double locking facility (which prevents it being unlocked manually from the inside, so the old trick of wire (or arm) in through a part open window does not work.) But outside the UK things may vary. The programming option I was thinking of is to do with un-locking, so is probably not relevant. From your symptoms given, I do not really suspect the IC (Instrument cluster), it has almost nothing to do with locking & remote control. It does get an ignition on signal from the BCM, and if that was playing up, it could make the gauges go a bit odd. But without proper diagnostics, nothing can be entirely ruled out. The BCM is easier to get to than door modules, (Does the car have 4 electric windows, or just front electric & back manual? It does have a big effect on the way the locking works.) So looking at that first seems a good idea. Forscan is a comprehensive and inexpensive diagnostic system that might well help to narrow it down a bit. There is also a test procedure for the BCM that can help check most of its input & output circuits: "Press and hold in the rear demister button while turning ignition to the run position, and you will get a tone. Once activated the test mode will sound a tone when any switch or lever is triggered. Open each door in turn, bonnet, boot, wiper, indicators, heater & a/c controls etc and a tone will sound/hazard lights will flash which will make it easier to pin down any faults." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurpp Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 10 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said: I just checked my (UK) owners manual. On normal (single) locking it says "On vehicles without double locking, the indicators will flash twice". On double locking it says the "indicators will flash twice". So it should depend on whether the car has the double locking facility (which prevents it being unlocked manually from the inside, so the old trick of wire (or arm) in through a part open window does not work.) But outside the UK things may vary. The programming option I was thinking of is to do with un-locking, so is probably not relevant. From your symptoms given, I do not really suspect the IC (Instrument cluster), it has almost nothing to do with locking & remote control. It does get an ignition on signal from the BCM, and if that was playing up, it could make the gauges go a bit odd. But without proper diagnostics, nothing can be entirely ruled out. The BCM is easier to get to than door modules, (Does the car have 4 electric windows, or just front electric & back manual? It does have a big effect on the way the locking works.) So looking at that first seems a good idea. Forscan is a comprehensive and inexpensive diagnostic system that might well help to narrow it down a bit. There is also a test procedure for the BCM that can help check most of its input & output circuits: "Press and hold in the rear demister button while turning ignition to the run position, and you will get a tone. Once activated the test mode will sound a tone when any switch or lever is triggered. Open each door in turn, bonnet, boot, wiper, indicators, heater & a/c controls etc and a tone will sound/hazard lights will flash which will make it easier to pin down any faults." Just two elecrical windows in front, back door windows have manual cranks. Yeah in that one instance immediately after switching the engine on the temp gauge jumped into the red zone and fuel gauge showed that I had 1/4th more gasoline than what I actually had. It hasn't done that since that one time. I'll try that BCM test and then check the BCM itself. Definitely would like to avoid disassembling thd door if possible... Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 3 hours ago, Jurpp said: I'll try that BCM test and then check the BCM itself. Having the 2 electric window option makes it a bit more likely the fault is in the BCM. The 4 electric windows version has electronic modules in each door that accept the door switches for locking. windows, mirrors etc, and control the locking motors. These door modules get commands over a CAN bus from the BCM for central locking etc. The 2 electric windows version has minimal electronics in the doors, all the switches & motors are directly controlled by the BCM. There could still be a problem with a switch in the door, or a wire or connector between the switches & the BCM, but it seems sensible to start with the BCM. You may have to be prepared to dismantle the BCM a bit to remove the covers and have a good look at the pcb. I have not done this myself, I tend not to mess with things that seem to be working! I did have to dismantle my IC, which was a bit daunting. Though as I was almost certain it was broken, I had little to lose! I suspect there are YouTubes & stuff about the BCM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurpp Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Update to my central locking woes. I tried that BCM test and all doors registered normally. Now I haven't had the time to check the BCM itself yet but I noticed something about the central locking behavior. When locking/unlocking the doors with the FOB, it works flawlessly. All doors unlock and lock as you'd expect. However, when pressing the locking button on the driver's door handle from inside the car, it only locks/unlocks the drivers door and none of the other doors. Same deal when manually turning the key in the driver's door lock from the outside, it only locks/unlocks the drivers door. So essentially central locking only works with the remote, not when manually operating it from the driver's door. What does that mean and does it help narrow the issue at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 On 12/14/2021 at 8:08 PM, Tdci-Peter said: ... (2nd press of the lock button). (I half recall there may be a way to set it for blink on lock, but default is no blink). Anyone know if there is a way to set it to blink on a single press of the fob button? I always double press, not for the sake of deadlocking it (I could care less!) but I like a visual indication that it is locked. I can't find anything in the owners manual to adjust... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 6 hours ago, StephenFord said: if there is a way to set it to blink on a single press of the fob button? I have never tried ELMConfig myself ("What are you, Man or Mouse?", "Errr, Squeak, squeak, where's the cheese"), so I haven't verified this, but there is a suggestion it is possible: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 1 minute ago, Tdci-Peter said: I have never tried ELMConfig myself ("What are you, Man or Mouse?", "Errr, Squeak, squeak, where's the cheese"), so I haven't verified this, but there is a suggestion it is possible: Many thanks, I was afraid of that LOL I was hoping there may be something involving a sequence of 'fob button' pressing, or twisting of the ignition key. ELM config terrifies me and I just know if I attempted to use it, my car wouldn't start and would end up as a paper weight! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 I had ELMConfig within 2 weeks of buying my Mk2...couldn't cope with the lack of cruise control on it! You can't really get it wrong, just make sure you save the 'as built' so there's always something to roll back to. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ja5653 Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 my mk2 1.6 ford focus is a joke when it comes to petrol and they have the worst gearbox out of any car i have ever driven i dare not go on the motorway think the engine would blow up so needs another 2 gears as it revs to approx 5000rpm + at 60mph and stays there but obviously goes higher if i speed up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 4 minutes ago, ja5653 said: my mk2 1.6 ford focus is a joke when it comes to petrol and they have the worst gearbox out of any car i have ever driven i dare not go on the motorway think the engine would blow up so needs another 2 gears as it revs to approx 5000rpm + at 60mph I think something may be wrong with yours (maybe clutch?) , mine is 3 years older, and I can get 35Mpg on a long trip, not bad for a 1.6. Also, the gearbox is a joy to use and at 70Mph, it'll churn out about 3500rpm... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 11 minutes ago, ja5653 said: it revs to approx 5000rpm + at 60mph it seems to me either someone previously has changed the gearbox for the wrong one or you have a clutch problem 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ja5653 Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 how could i find out without incurring high bills i really appreciate all advice guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 1 minute ago, ja5653 said: how could i find out without incurring high bills i really appreciate all advice guys To test for a dodgy clutch, accelerate up a hill and see if your engine revs rise faster than the car appears to speed up! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuiiu Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 Focus 2008 1,6 tdci car after 20mils driving Dashboard Engine malfunction if I'm stop and start Engine again The Car driving OK but after 6-8 miles again on Dashboard Engine Malfunction I'm was Garage they indicated Flue filter and Things happen again 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KURTGOBEMOUCHE Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 Hi all 59 reg MK2 focus zetec 100 1.6 petrol. 42k miles. Rattling noise from passenger side wheel? Any ideas. Anti roll bar has play and few other bits according to MOT tester. Happens only over 35mph. Changed wipers & I've welded exhaust hanger back as snapped from rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie tomkinson Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Hi can you please tell me where to locate the pcv valve on my 09 focus 1.6 petrol ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzle Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Hi.New here.Anyone know how this clip fits tightly ? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 17 minutes ago, Gazzle said: .Anyone know how this clip fits tightly ? That clip doesn't - it's broken !! Looks like it's been stretched. The tabs should have been squeezed together to release it, but looks like they were forced apart. You need a new clip. Just but a regular 'Jubilee' clip it will do the same job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzle Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 It's brand new, unofix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Can you take a photo from the other side ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 5 minutes ago, unofix said: Can you take a photo from the other side ? I'm laughing, I was just about to ask the very same thing!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzle Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Genuine part from Ford, no eBay rubbish. Not been fitted yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 This is either a new type of squeeze and click together hose clip, I know they are in use but I've not used one. Or the other option is it's the normal self clamping type and it's just the wrong size. can you photo the buckle part of the clip ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 46 minutes ago, unofix said: can you photo the buckle part of the clip ? I have enlarged that clip to full screen and still cannot see how it is suppose to operate LOL The central bar has a short stem that looks as if it should hook onto something, but for the life of me I can't tell what. Bet you if I had it in my hand, I could sort it out in seconds, just as I'm sure you would too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 1 minute ago, StephenFord said: central bar has a short stem that looks as if it should hook onto something, but for the life of me I can't tell what. Bet you if I had it in my hand, I could sort it out in seconds, just as I'm sure you would too! Yes did the same as you !! Watched an American car repair programme last week and he was using these squeeze and click clips. They get fitted with special hose clip pliers that have curved jaws 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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