Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, pandoo1 said:

the immobiliser light would come on as a solid red light.  At first I thought it was the battery.  I had called greenflag out to start my car as I didn't know the issue.  So they came and first thing they said was the battery so I had that changed.  At the same time they did a scan on the car and it came up with the  error code: U2197.

The 2006 Focus is very, very prone to a problem with the IC (Instrument Cluster). The most common is just a bad connection between the connector and the pcb. But as it is on the main CAN bus, it upsets all sorts of systems.

The immobiliser (PATS) light should start to flash out a code after a while. one flash, pause, six flashes & repeat would be code 16, a communications fault. Try googling PATS flash codes.

===PCM DTC U2197-21===
Code: U2197 - Invalid data for Vehicle Speed

This is typical of this problem as the IC gets this info from the ABS unit over the CAN bus.

Your symptoms are bit bit different to the ones I had, but still pointing to the same cause.

I recommend getting Forscan, it can read all the codes, and reset them. This may be needed after a repair, it was in my case.

Tapping the fascia around the IC may change the fault. There is a simple resistance test (60 ohms between pins 6-14 in diagnostic connector) you can do. The IC is reasonably easy to remove, just do it slowly without more force than needed as the clear cover can crack. Some places can repair them for about £100, a new one will be about £800, and a used one would be very hard to set-up. Repair may be diy if you have access to soldering equipment.

For a bit more info, see: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

Or post here.

[pandoo1]

33 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The 2006 Focus is very, very prone to a problem with the IC (Instrument Cluster). The most common is just a bad connection between the connector and the pcb. But as it is on the main CAN bus, it upsets all sorts of systems.

The immobiliser (PATS) light should start to flash out a code after a while. one flash, pause, six flashes & repeat would be code 16, a communications fault. Try googling PATS flash codes.

===PCM DTC U2197-21===
Code: U2197 - Invalid data for Vehicle Speed

This is typical of this problem as the IC gets this info from the ABS unit over the CAN bus.

Your symptoms are bit bit different to the ones I had, but still pointing to the same cause.

I recommend getting Forscan, it can read all the codes, and reset them. This may be needed after a repair, it was in my case.

Tapping the fascia around the IC may change the fault. There is a simple resistance test (60 ohms between pins 6-14 in diagnostic connector) you can do. The IC is reasonably easy to remove, just do it slowly without more force than needed as the clear cover can crack. Some places can repair them for about £100, a new one will be about £800, and a used one would be very hard to set-up. Repair may be diy if you have access to soldering equipment.

For a bit more info, see: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

Or post here.

Thank you for the reply buddy i appreciate that!

From doing a bit more research everything does point back to the IC.  I think its best to send it off to one of them eBay repairers to be on the safe side.  

Also i used to use ipna the diagnostics app for bmws, is forscan free? and will my obd cable be fine?

Cheers

[Stoney871]

I'd get in touch with these guys-

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/make/ford?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=ford%20focus%20dash%20repair&utm_content=Ford&utm_campaign=CRManufacturerKeywords
They have a good track record.

Sent from my SM-G930F

[Tdci-Peter]

5 hours ago, pandoo1 said:

is forscan free? and will my obd cable be fine

Forscan needs an ELM327 type cable. The best sort are USB ones that are "modified" to use the Ford MS CAN bus as well as the normal HS CAN bus. Though the MS CAN bus is not essential for this problem, it mainly goes to body related stuff, door modules, radio, and the GEM (or BCM). Wireless ones are a bit less reliable.

It does not look like the INPA type cable would be suitable.

Forscan is a non-commercial, collaborative organisation, and it is generally the most powerful system available for Fords.

If you are thinking of modding your car (once this nasty gremlin is knocked on the head!), then ELMConfig is the programme to use, and it uses the same adapter. It is also a freely downloadable program.

My standard bit about Forscan:

Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost £15.00 for the interface. Needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196

Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. The Tunnelrat one (below) has been reported to work well by several people. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones.

For a USB ELM327 adapter, see
http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992

Wireless ELMs are also available (bluetooth & WiFi), but are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rare in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster).

For an bluetooth wireless ELM, which one user at least says works with Forscan, see the KW902: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-KW902-Bluetooth-Scaner-OBD-Link-OBD2-Diagnose-Interface-Tester-white-UK-/281631334205

The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from:
http://forscan.org/download.html

 

[pandoo1]

5 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

I'd get in touch with these guys-

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/make/ford?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=ford%20focus%20dash%20repair&utm_content=Ford&utm_campaign=CRManufacturerKeywords
They have a good track record.

Sent from my SM-G930F
 

Thank you very much pal! Ill call them tomorrow :)

[pandoo1]

1 hour ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Forscan needs an ELM327 type cable. The best sort are USB ones that are "modified" to use the Ford MS CAN bus as well as the normal HS CAN bus. Though the MS CAN bus is not essential for this problem, it mainly goes to body related stuff, door modules, radio, and the GEM (or BCM). Wireless ones are a bit less reliable.

It does not look like the INPA type cable would be suitable.

Forscan is a non-commercial, collaborative organisation, and it is generally the most powerful system available for Fords.

If you are thinking of modding your car (once this nasty gremlin is knocked on the head!), then ELMConfig is the programme to use, and it uses the same adapter. It is also a freely downloadable program.

My standard bit about Forscan:

Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost £15.00 for the interface. Needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196

Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. The Tunnelrat one (below) has been reported to work well by several people. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones.

For a USB ELM327 adapter, see
http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992

Wireless ELMs are also available (bluetooth & WiFi), but are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rare in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster).

For an bluetooth wireless ELM, which one user at least says works with Forscan, see the KW902: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-KW902-Bluetooth-Scaner-OBD-Link-OBD2-Diagnose-Interface-Tester-white-UK-/281631334205

The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from:
http://forscan.org/download.html

 

Top man you are! Ill have a look into this deeper.  Just need to get this car sorted asap :(

[Darren82]

Hi 

I got a 03 Focus 1.6 with poor idle after warm up.  Changed the crankcase breather hose, ICV was spotless but replaced the gasket.  Its still doing it though its caused a couple stalls but not excessive.  I read here that the PCV Valve is worth replacing so thats my next little job.  Any other common issues before i have to start smashing my wallet?

Theres no engine management light on and i recently reset the ECU.

 

Thanks Guys

[smitty2482]

On 12/23/2016 at 1:36 PM, Darren82 said:

Hi 

I got a 03 Focus 1.6 with poor idle after warm up.  Changed the crankcase breather hose, ICV was spotless but replaced the gasket.  Its still doing it though its caused a couple stalls but not excessive.  I read here that the PCV Valve is worth replacing so thats my next little job.  Any other common issues before i have to start smashing my wallet?

Theres no engine management light on and i recently reset the ECU.

 

Thanks Guys

I had something similar.Try replacing the coil pack.

[pandoo1]

Hi 

Just wanted to start by saying happy new year to you all!

Now if you read back to a few posts I had the instrument cluster issue, so what I did was get it sent off for repairs, got it back just before xmas and this is what happened.

I fitted the speedo after receiving it from the repairer and everything was fine. I went for drive 5 minutes later my car cut out with no power and it wouldnt restart! the speedo was stuck on idle and even when i took my key out the speedo wouldnt turn off. I then had to get towed home and it was a nightmare. Now that I disconnected the speedo and reconnected it and now all the needles restarted back to normal position however ive got the constant PAT flash light on my dash and the speedo still says engine systems fault and it wont start at all or even crank.  

In my opinion it still looks like it has the cluster fault, but it was repaired by a reputable company so I dont know.  My diagnostics scanner does even pick up any issues. It wasnt nowhere as bad as this before the repair LOL

I dont want to spend rediculous money on this car as I already have, just need a working car now.

Has anyone got a clue!?!

Cheers

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, pandoo1 said:

ive got the constant PAT flash light on my dash and the speedo still says engine systems fault and it wont start at all or even crank. 

Ugh, what a nightmare! Sorry to hear that.

Have you tried Forscan. The standard OBD2 scanners are not much use for this sort of problem. Without some error codes it is almost impossible to guess what might be wrong. Also the PATS light should start to flash out a code after the ignition is left on for a couple of minutes.

Did the repair company give any sort of fault report?

You need to eliminate other problem sources before contacting the repair company to complain the IC was not repaired properly.

A few I can think of are:

1) Fuses, the main ones are F46 & F67 in the passenger fusebox.

2) Connector problems: The one at the back of the IC (the wiring to the car half of the connector), C90 (in the engine bay fuse box), C113 & C112 (both under the side trim panel in front of the passenger front door).

3) The IC has lost its PATS settings for some unknown reason. In this case, Forscan should be able to restore them, but it is a bit complicated. I doubt if a repairer can do it, it has to be done in the car, with your keys and your PCM connected.

The error codes would show if it is a connector problem or a PATS problem. Multiple U DTCs would indicate a connector problem, PATS related codes only would show a PATS loss of memory. The PATS flash codes would also help here.

If multiple U codes persist after checking the connectors in the car, then it is likely to be that there is still a problem with the IC. Usually the repair comes with some sort of warranty, but it will not cover items in the car like connectors.

Bad joints in connectors can get worse if the car is left standing in cold, damp weather.

The resistance check (60 ohms between pins 6 & 14 on the diagnostic connector) I have outlined in various places can also track down some connector faults.

[pandoo1]

18 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Ugh, what a nightmare! Sorry to hear that.

Have you tried Forscan. The standard OBD2 scanners are not much use for this sort of problem. Without some error codes it is almost impossible to guess what might be wrong. Also the PATS light should start to flash out a code after the ignition is left on for a couple of minutes.

Did the repair company give any sort of fault report?

You need to eliminate other problem sources before contacting the repair company to complain the IC was not repaired properly.

A few I can think of are:

1) Fuses, the main ones are F46 & F67 in the passenger fusebox.

2) Connector problems: The one at the back of the IC (the wiring to the car half of the connector), C90 (in the engine bay fuse box), C113 & C112 (both under the side trim panel in front of the passenger front door).

3) The IC has lost its PATS settings for some unknown reason. In this case, Forscan should be able to restore them, but it is a bit complicated. I doubt if a repairer can do it, it has to be done in the car, with your keys and your PCM connected.

The error codes would show if it is a connector problem or a PATS problem. Multiple U DTCs would indicate a connector problem, PATS related codes only would show a PATS loss of memory. The PATS flash codes would also help here.

If multiple U codes persist after checking the connectors in the car, then it is likely to be that there is still a problem with the IC. Usually the repair comes with some sort of warranty, but it will not cover items in the car like connectors.

Bad joints in connectors can get worse if the car is left standing in cold, damp weather.

The resistance check (60 ohms between pins 6 & 14 on the diagnostic connector) I have outlined in various places can also track down some connector faults.

Thank you for that useful info! I will have a look at the fuses, and I havent had a chance to try forscan yet been a hectic festive period haha!  Ill have a look and keep you updated buddy :)

[shaneyb]

hi all pretty new to this I have a 2007 mk2 focus. my back window wiper only works intermittently wen I use the back wiper it only moves about 1/4 the way across the back window. I have to do this a few times to get it back to its resting position. I have replaced the motor thinking this was the problem but the problem still exists. When I do turn it on I hear a click coming from the passenger side foot well. could it be a fuse problem maybe?? any help will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Lenny]

On Sunday, February 19, 2017 at 11:22 AM, shaneyb said:

hi all pretty new to this I have a 2007 mk2 focus. my back window wiper only works intermittently wen I use the back wiper it only moves about 1/4 the way across the back window. I have to do this a few times to get it back to its resting position. I have replaced the motor thinking this was the problem but the problem still exists. When I do turn it on I hear a click coming from the passenger side foot well. could it be a fuse problem maybe?? any help will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi,

The click you hear in the passenger footwell is completely normal, it's the GEM computer sending the signal to the wiper switching on and then off after the set duration,

You may like: Guide To De-Wiper Rear Of Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here  will pass MOT can't test or fail what isint fitted to the vehicle 😉

[Reneg4deMaster]

Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI all lights on the dash and can sits idling no response from throttle nothing, turn off and restart it's ok. cruise is also disabled.

is this the dreaded instrument cluster fault or speed sensor. 

Pic of DTC codes attached.

Thanks in advance.

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

is this the dreaded instrument cluster fault

Maybe.

But there is another possibility. My neighbor has a Renault van, and had a similar fault, it would idle, but ignore the throttle. Then be ok on a re-start. It was a dodgy alternator. Probably one phase gone, which put a lot of ripple on to the 12v supplies to all the modules. This would be made worse if the battery was getting past its best.

If it is the cluster (IC), I would expect immobiliser problems to develop, and dashes to appear in the odometer. The peak of the IC problem was 2006, but a 2007 one may have been manufactured in 2006.

In that case, If you have soldering experience, or have a freind who has, then it may not be too expensive. I fixed mine for the cost of an ELM327 adapter, a very good investment anyway.

It is most often just a bad connection where the connector is soldered to the pcb of the IC. If it affects the HS-CAN bus, like mine did, and others, then all those Comms errors (U codes) start appearing.

Since your car has ABS, it almost certainly will not have a speed sensor. It uses the ABS signals. Vehicle speed faults in the PCM or IC will be due to comms errors, getting the data from the ABS.

 

 

[Reneg4deMaster]

Thanks for your Reply Peter.

I took the clocks out and it looked like there was condensation getting on the board and seeing as it only happends in the morning I think it could be the problem. 

To remedy this I spreayed the board with WD 40 and blotted off the excess, I also blew the connector out with air and cleared the codes. we will see if it has sorted it out. 

If it does it again I will resolder the board.

Thanks again for your help.

[Lenny]

1 hour ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

Thanks for your Reply Peter.

I took the clocks out and it looked like there was condensation getting on the board and seeing as it only happends in the morning I think it could be the problem. 

To remedy this I spreayed the board with WD 40 and blotted off the excess, I also blew the connector out with air and cleared the codes. we will see if it has sorted it out. 

If it does it again I will resolder the board.

Thanks again for your help.

If possible take it in to the house and leave it in the airing cupboard over night,

Alternatively leave it in a sealed bag along with a bowl of dry whole grain rice.

either method will absorb moisture from the unit on a molecular level 👌

[n00bem]

I have a 07 focus ghia, and my mechanic has told me the bushes have gone on the steering rack, does anyone know were i can get these they seem almost impossible to find have found some in the US just seeing if anyone else has had a similar problem

[Banty123]

In the last week my focus has been shuddering under acceleration sometimes, it seems like when I accelerate from a stop or accelerate hard the car will shudder or kind of jump if that makes sense. From some research it seems it could the coil pack, does this sound right and is there anyway I can test the coil pack?

[Elidka55]

Hello, is it possible to change screen (plastic glass) for focusmk2 instrument cluster? I bought one from scrapyard, and glass is scratched badly :( I could change whole cluster cover (that thingy with holes for clocks and trip computer), but problem is that my old cluster has different shape trip computer hole, so it does not fit, so I would like to change glass only... thanks in advance :)

[Tdci-Peter]

On 30/03/2017 at 4:33 PM, Elidka55 said:

is it possible to change screen (plastic glass) for focusmk2 instrument cluster?

A few other people have had problems with scratched or broken cluster screens. And mine has a couple of big scratches in it, although it does not hide the dials, and does not bother me too much.

But I have not come across any supply of spare covers or screens. One option would be another one from a scapyard with a good screen, but either high mileage indicated, or damaged pcb, either should make it quite cheap (it is hard to reduce the mileage reading on one of these).

Anyone who finds a supplier or repairer for these screens, if they posted here, it might assist others!

[Giorgos-A4074]

Hi everyone. First post ever. I bought my Focus 1.6 TDCi two and a half months ago. Less than one month after that I had the clock changed by the trader and since then the engine malfunction light has gone on and off frequently. The trader said the engine is fine it's something electronic related to the change of clock (not sure what). However, last two weeks the light has not gone off for a single second and today that I had the windows open I noticed something: When accelerating there is a noise coming from the engine like a tyre deflating (or like a gas hob been left on). The noise gets louder when I increase rpm but goes completely off if I push the clutch. The noise is less loud with 4th and even less with 5th gear. Obviously, I am going to ring a garage tomorrow morning but any opinions from you could be helpful. 

Thanks in advance.

  

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Giorgos-A4074 said:

When accelerating there is a noise coming from the engine like a tyre deflating

That noise is probably a split hose between the turbo & the inlet manifold. As the turbo pressure builds up, it will leak air. It will not affect the performance too much if it is a small split.

Just feeling around all the big hoses & pipes from turbo down to the intercooler, and back up to the manifold, may reveal the problem. The plastic pipe that curls around the turbo is a favorite place.

Regarding the EML (engine light), you really do need a code reader. Anyone owning a car out of manufacturer's warranty, but under about 15 years old, needs one. Basic OBD2 readers are dead cheap, and safe and easy to use. They will reveal most engine related error codes. A system like Forscan will give a much better coverage of body and Instrument Cluster (clocks, or IC) codes. Without some way of reading the codes, you are utterly at the mercy of the garage or trader. They can tell you anything, it all depends how trustworthy they are!

It may just be something like a turbo underboost error (P0299), stacking up with a split hose. Or it could be something altogether different, like DPF or additive problems, that you need to know about, but the trader will not want you to know.

 

[Giorgos-A4074]

Thanks Peter.I am afraid it does affect the performance a bit, not too much as you said but it does.I have found some OBD2 readers which are quite cheap. 

[Giorgos-A4074]

I have found this Forscan OBD2 compatible. Would it be ok for me?

Thanks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Modified-ELM327-USB-Ford-Elmconfig-Focccus-Forscan-Focus-Smax-Mondeo-Kuga-/222507981410?hash=item33ce825a62:g:6XgAAOSwGIRXZT2v