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Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread


jamesm182
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4 hours ago, Jurpp said:

on my Focus locking the doors DID flash the turn signals but it just randomly stopped doing it one day

I just checked my (UK) owners manual. On normal (single) locking it says "On vehicles without double locking, the indicators will flash twice". On double locking it says the "indicators will flash twice". So it should depend on whether the car has the double locking facility (which prevents it being unlocked manually from the inside, so the old trick of wire (or arm) in through a part open window does not work.) But outside the UK things may vary.

The programming option I was thinking of is to do with un-locking, so is probably not relevant.

From your symptoms given, I do not really suspect the IC (Instrument cluster), it has almost nothing to do with locking & remote control. It does get an ignition on signal from the BCM, and if that was playing up, it could make the gauges go a bit odd. But without proper diagnostics, nothing can be entirely ruled out.

The BCM is easier to get to than door modules, (Does the car have 4 electric windows, or just front electric & back manual? It does have a big effect on the way the locking works.) So looking at that first seems a good idea.

Forscan is a comprehensive and inexpensive diagnostic system that might well help to narrow it down a bit.

There is also a test procedure for the BCM that can help check most of its input & output circuits:

"Press and hold in the rear demister button while turning ignition to the run position, and you will get a tone.

Once activated the test mode will sound a tone when any switch or lever is triggered.

Open each door in turn, bonnet, boot, wiper, indicators, heater & a/c controls etc and a tone will sound/hazard lights will flash which will make it easier to pin down any faults."

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10 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I just checked my (UK) owners manual. On normal (single) locking it says "On vehicles without double locking, the indicators will flash twice". On double locking it says the "indicators will flash twice". So it should depend on whether the car has the double locking facility (which prevents it being unlocked manually from the inside, so the old trick of wire (or arm) in through a part open window does not work.) But outside the UK things may vary.

The programming option I was thinking of is to do with un-locking, so is probably not relevant.

From your symptoms given, I do not really suspect the IC (Instrument cluster), it has almost nothing to do with locking & remote control. It does get an ignition on signal from the BCM, and if that was playing up, it could make the gauges go a bit odd. But without proper diagnostics, nothing can be entirely ruled out.

The BCM is easier to get to than door modules, (Does the car have 4 electric windows, or just front electric & back manual? It does have a big effect on the way the locking works.) So looking at that first seems a good idea.

Forscan is a comprehensive and inexpensive diagnostic system that might well help to narrow it down a bit.

There is also a test procedure for the BCM that can help check most of its input & output circuits:

"Press and hold in the rear demister button while turning ignition to the run position, and you will get a tone.

Once activated the test mode will sound a tone when any switch or lever is triggered.

Open each door in turn, bonnet, boot, wiper, indicators, heater & a/c controls etc and a tone will sound/hazard lights will flash which will make it easier to pin down any faults."

Just two elecrical windows in front, back door windows have manual cranks. Yeah in that one instance immediately after switching the engine on the temp gauge jumped into the red zone and fuel gauge showed that I had 1/4th more gasoline than what I actually had. It hasn't done that since that one time. 

I'll try that BCM test and then check the BCM itself. Definitely would like to avoid disassembling thd door if possible... Thanks for the input. 

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3 hours ago, Jurpp said:

I'll try that BCM test and then check the BCM itself.

Having the 2 electric window option makes it a bit more likely the fault is in the BCM. The 4 electric windows version has electronic modules in each door that accept the door switches for locking. windows, mirrors etc, and control the locking motors. These door modules get commands over a CAN bus from the BCM for central locking etc.

The 2 electric windows version has minimal electronics in the doors, all the switches & motors are directly controlled by the BCM. There could still be a problem with a switch in the door, or a wire or connector between the switches & the BCM, but it seems sensible to start with the BCM.

You may have to be prepared to dismantle the BCM a bit to remove the covers and have a good look at the pcb. I have not done this myself, I tend not to mess with things that seem to be working! I did have to dismantle my IC, which was a bit daunting. Though as I was almost certain it was broken, I had little to lose! I suspect there are YouTubes & stuff about the BCM.

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Update to my central locking woes. I tried that BCM test and all doors registered normally. Now I haven't had the time to check the BCM itself yet but I noticed something about the central locking behavior. When locking/unlocking the doors with the FOB, it works flawlessly. All doors unlock and lock as you'd expect. However, when pressing the locking button on the driver's door handle from inside the car, it only locks/unlocks the drivers door and none of the other doors. Same deal when manually turning the key in the driver's door lock from the outside, it only locks/unlocks the drivers door. So essentially central locking only works with the remote, not when manually operating it from the driver's door. What does that mean and does it help narrow the issue at all?

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On 12/14/2021 at 8:08 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

... (2nd press of the lock button). (I half recall there may be a way to set it for blink on lock, but default is no blink).

 

Anyone know if there is a way to set it to blink on a single press of the fob button? I always double press, not for the sake of deadlocking it (I could care less!) but I like a visual indication that it is locked. I can't find anything in the owners manual to adjust...

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6 hours ago, StephenFord said:

if there is a way to set it to blink on a single press of the fob button?

I have never tried ELMConfig myself ("What are you, Man or Mouse?",  "Errr, Squeak, squeak, where's the cheese"), so I haven't verified this, but there is a suggestion it is possible:

 

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1 minute ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I have never tried ELMConfig myself ("What are you, Man or Mouse?",  "Errr, Squeak, squeak, where's the cheese"), so I haven't verified this, but there is a suggestion it is possible:

 

Many thanks, I was afraid of that LOL I was hoping there may be something involving a sequence of 'fob button' pressing, or twisting of the ignition key. ELM config terrifies me and I just know if I attempted to use it, my car wouldn't start and would end up as a paper weight!

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  • 3 weeks later...

my mk2 1.6 ford focus is a joke when it comes to petrol and they have the worst gearbox out of any car i have ever driven i dare not go on the motorway think the engine would blow up so needs another 2 gears as it revs to approx 5000rpm + at 60mph and stays there but obviously goes higher if i speed up 

 

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4 minutes ago, ja5653 said:

my mk2 1.6 ford focus is a joke when it comes to petrol and they have the worst gearbox out of any car i have ever driven i dare not go on the motorway think the engine would blow up so needs another 2 gears as it revs to approx 5000rpm + at 60mph 

I think something may be wrong with yours (maybe clutch?) , mine is 3 years older, and I can get 35Mpg on a long trip, not bad for a 1.6. Also, the gearbox is a joy to use and at 70Mph, it'll churn out about 3500rpm...

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11 minutes ago, ja5653 said:

it revs to approx 5000rpm + at 60mph

it seems to me either someone previously has changed the gearbox for the wrong one or you have a clutch problem

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1 minute ago, ja5653 said:

how could i find out without incurring high bills i really appreciate all advice guys 

 

To test for a dodgy clutch, accelerate up a hill and see if your engine revs rise faster than the car appears to speed up!

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Focus 2008 1,6 tdci   car after 20mils driving  Dashboard  Engine malfunction   if I'm stop and start  Engine  again  The Car driving  OK but after  6-8 miles  again  on Dashboard  Engine  Malfunction   I'm was Garage they indicated  Flue filter   and Things  happen  again 

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