Cold Starting Problem

[x1x]

Hi Peeps,

I seem to have a problem with cold starting my car. Its a 02 ford focus 18 TDCI diesel 85 kw 115ps. No starting problems at all then one day it just did not want to start. Just turns over glow plug light starts to flash. Turn off and on and 1/2 sec illumination from plug light, retry 1/2 secs illumination, turn engine, flashed again turn off and so on. Called out recovery and they were baffled. After few tries starting and blowing something from a tin into the engine, checking fuel pump maybe a few other things decided to twiddle the fuses/relays and the engine came to life

Super. So he followed us to the petrol station so I could fill up. Got back into car and nothing. Just turning over. Any how tow to garage and left there for them to look at. They think cam sensor. Car starts drive home. Fault codes were cam sensor and fuel pressure or something. 2 days later Nothing same problem. Garage mechanic no avail for a few days so I take of battery 3 times and charge (due to attempting to fire the thing up) . Left of the car 12+ hours full charge starts 2 out of 3 first time.

So I take it back to garage. He's baffled truly. So more checks were made. He checked glow plugs, diesel getting through to engine, battery, (through MIll Autos as he was not sure about his own) . Same fault codes . Can't remember what else but I expect all the basic checks were done.

Mechanic rules out battery as it can turn and turn for england. Tons of boost from a 680cca 70ah battery.Rules out fuel pressure/injector pump as when the car starts and you drive it it doesn't miss a beat and goes like the clappers. And cam sensor has been done. He did state he moved it closer to the flywheel.

He thought it as smelling but maybe that was the guff recovery sprayed trying to fire her up.

Starter motor/alternator replaced 2011 and by the price of the part of the bill they were genuine parts

Glow plugs were replaced around this time but I think the seller said the were recon but mechanic tested these as a pass. The funny thing is the glow plug light on the dash lights for about 1/2 a second and goes out. It use to be longer (about 2 secs) .

I suggested EGR valve from something I read elsewhere but was dismissed.

I am so thinking Battery although it turns over and over and over .. But also starter drawing too much current maybe ??

How are the glow plugs operated on these cars, there is one single glow plug relay in the fusebox in the engine compartment. where is the timer ?

Can it be a faulty temp sensor or would that be rules out as maybe it shares the thermostat operation. The car never runs cool or hot. Right in the middle on gauge. Perfect!

Getting desperate for an answer now . I love the Ford Focus but this is driving us all mad!

I did a self diagnose incar dash test. By the time I got to Battery voltage and started the car the reading was about 9.7v and dropping the more I turned the engine. Not sure if the glow plug would have been active by the time I did the test. The battery read 12.2v fully charged. I am meaning to to a proper test with a multimeter as soon as weather clears a bit and can get my partner free to turn the engine. The code 9318(dtc) came up the first time. Presently none.

I took the battery off for 5 days just recently and charged it up. Did a final charge before immediately putting it into car. Fired up first time. Waited till it got to the normal temperature and kept it there a good while no problems over heating etc. Turned her off. waited 45 minutes went back to start her and nothing. Just turns and turns and turns :(

This problem as far as I can tell hasn't been solved or is it a variety of problems leading to the same result ?

x`

Oh just and edit: car starts without a problem when hot. I suppose before it cools down. I went bacl 45 mins and it must have cooled down enough to play up again.

Anyone .... please please please :)

[artscot79]

Diesel glow plug light flashing is a warning theres an issue with the system if they are baffled theyre not too bright first point of call check the wiring then the glow plugs a cam sensor is possible egr usually causes racing at idle sounds like a glow plug problem any mechanic can test them battery should be reading 12.4-12.5v doing the test and 14.4v when charged or charging i should say so that suggests the battery is either not silver cslcium or its duff or the alternators on its way if those are the battery readings then theres an issue ford uses smart charge say that to most mechanics theyll stare blankly at you if the charging systems faulty the power isnt tgere to fire up the glow plugs they use a lot of juice so the battery cant heat them so the diesel wont ignite and no start do youreself a favour take it to ford or this garage will replace half the engine the dealer will check the plugs and wiring battery alternator etc etc

[gwengo]

Hi mate, I had the same issue, I too have a 2002 1.8 tdci. I was driving in to Birmingham one evening when I pulled up at an island and the engine just konked out and would not restart. The glowplug light just flashed on and it wouldn't turn over. Had the AA out and it turned out to be the camsensor. The one that's mounted on top of the rocker cove. It was only a £30 fix. I wonder if they replaced the camshaft sensor rather than the cam sensor.

[x1x]

Thanks for the replies :)

Glow plugs were checked and working. Not sure if they did a normal continuity test or tested them on the ignition for timing. No rough idle so rules out EGR then. Tested the battery after a full charge on a multimeter and reading 12.97. battery is a yuasa but I don't think its a sliver calcium as ford strictly recommends for this type of car but turns for an age. Not done a test while charging/engine running yet but the next time I get it started that will be on my list to do. Perhaps the battery is too busy juicing / cranking the engine to be able to power the other electrics hence the fault codes as the battery may be failing amperage to do more jobs. jobs. A Ford Dealer could be a good bet but fear the bill :(

Yes It was the crank position sensor that was replaced according to the invoice. But does the engine not run if any of the two sensors were faulty. When the car is hot is does not bat an eyelid , pure perfection, no misses , bangs , judders . Runs like a dream so to speak . Mine never conks out at all hot or cold. Runs and idles well. Its when left to go cold when I get the starting problem. If sensors and wiring were faulty I would the problem of stalling / cut outs which I don't have. Its definitely a COLD start issue with this one. Maybe the glow plug wiring. I can test the plugs on ignition on a multimeter to rule it out next time the weather is dry. Every time the last few days I pop the bonnet it p*sses with rain :(

I want to change the battery to a proper sliver calcium but the cheapest price of one i could find is about £80-£90 of the net for this car, a Bosch s4007/8 or s5007/8 seems to be the one to go for for I have been reading.

[artscot79]

Do the dash test with engine running you should be seeing 14-14.4v if its a lead acid battery what happens is they are designed for 12v max so when you Start the car and its cold thats 14.4v going through it for a period of time it bends the plates inside and boils the electrolyte after a short time the smart charge detects its not a silver calcium battery so the signal is bounced back to the alternator which reverts to a standard alternator so now the alternator cant run at a high enough voltage to replace what youre using and the foci is designed so if that power isnt there high draw electrics wont switch on like heated screens etc im not saying its defo that but the battery does need rrplaced you can get a Bosch from eBay a lot cheaper mate try this place http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=350869448852

[Dan62]

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