Car Still Overheating

[mick85]

Right we'll thermostat not opening then fan cutting an running faster stop car overheating are u sure all other pipe hot an good hot air inside car u goin have replace temp sensor cheapest thing an if that don't work maybe PCM upgrade then followed by rad the rad last cause I say that most expensive did u do flush with thermo still in car

[Danny boi]

Yeah good hot air in car, I'll do sensor when I get paid, I rang Ford and a PCM upgrade is £90 so was gonna do that as a last resort as found a brand new radiator on e-bay for £40 and yeah left thermostat in when did the flush. Which other pipes should be hot?

[mick85]

Ok u should had that thermostat out doing that flush but its really weird like it should open regardless when coolant hit temperature like if u driving longer then half hour u expect every coolant hose be hot an hot air in car means water pump circulating hot water from engine into matrix is both coolant pipes at bulkhead hot

[Danny boi]

I'm not sure which pipes u mean?

[mick85]

Two pipe at back the engine on bulkhead follow pipes coming out of inside car from heater matrix

[Danny boi]

Ok I'll have a check in the morning as cars locked up the the garage now, cheers for the info I'll let u know the outcome

[artscot79]

even after an hour the bottom pipe can still not be hot simply put its say 5 degrees outside add in the wind chill at say 60mph youre looking at 2 degrees thats whats flowing through the rad the thermostat will stay closed and bypass the coolant round the head so the engine heats up quicker and stays at a constant temperature once the coolant gets hot enough the rad will open and the coolant will flow through the rad but as its pretty cold air flowing through it will start to over cool so the thermostat will close again which can be seen on the gauge ie up at 90 then drops a bit then up again and again the coolant flows round the head to the expansion tank thats how the system works you cant test it by driving unless its say 15 degrees outside which its not so the only way to check the bottom pipe and thermostat opening is simple leave the car running sitting at idle check the expansion tank look for coolant flowing into it via the bypass it will get warm after a while the top hose should get warm then hot when this happens and its hot check the expansion again this will also be warm/hot give it 10 mins and now feel the bottom hose if its cold carefully incase the fan comes on touch the top of the rad if its hot then the thermostat is opening as it should if the bottom hose gats hot all is fine with the thermostat and its likely the head temp sensor

[Danny boi]

Ok thanks for the info and just to let u know I haven't been able to go 60 mph since it started overheating I can bearly get to 45mph before the temps in the red

[Danny boi]

Right just a quick update, changed CHT sensor and still saying overheating😡😡

I guess next step is the PCM update by Ford 💸💸

[mick85]

So did every pipe get hot an fan cut in if u left it idle or revved engine to get car good an hot from a stand still

[Danny boi]

Yes, well bottom hose got warm I wouldn't say hot, but all others pretty hot

[Steve Tnl]

Your radiator is blocked. Take it out and put a hose in one in the large input, it should run freely out of the other bottom large output, if not, that's the problem. Also check that you have all the little zig zag bits in between the tubes that carry the water through the radiator, if they are gone it will not cool the water. For whatever reason the water is not being cooled, the faster you go, the more it will overheat. Your ecu is protecting the engine from you trying to cook it so is restricting your speed. Simply flushing a rad in situ is often not enough and will not unblock it.

[mick85]

Including small pipe from coolant bottle to rad an both pipe going into matrix so u replaced thermostat water pump coolant temp sensor every fan cuts in an out an every pipe gettin hot now every pipe on coolant system

[STEADS]

Who or where did you get the the water pump changed was the system bled properly .

[Danny boi]

I got the pump done at a guys garage that a bloke at work recommended, I'm not sure if bled properly as I didn't stay there when the work was being done.

I didn't think the focus had any bleed screws/valves??

[mick85]

They don't have bleed screw but if all pipes hot an fan cutting in an out should be ok

[martyntdci]

was just going suggest air block.....

[Danny boi]

I thought air lock at first but since then I've drained the coolant, flushed the system and re-filled slowly abit at a time while squeezing all the pipes

[Danny boi]

Ok this completely slipped my mind and I've just remembered now, when I had the water pump done when I picked the car up the bloke said that when he went to take the slack of the drive belt the tensioner was really loose and it wouldn't tighten up properly after he'd finished so he said he'd put some lock tight on it but advised me to replace the tensioner, in all the stress of figuring out the overheating I completely forgot, it's a long shot but could a faulty belt tensioner be causing the problem??

[artscot79]

if the bekts loose it will be slipping and so the pump wont be getting turned properly if at all ide get that tensioner sorted first

[Danny boi]

Yh I'm gonna sort that tomorrow, it's not been squealing tho, could it be slipping but not making a noise??

[mick85]

Could be that but u be expecting battery light alternator not be charging either if an power steering be heavier if belt loose

[Danny boi]

Well it needs replacing regardless so I'll do that in the morning but as you say I got no battery light and power steering fine