Couple Of Issues With My New Focus

[LEK]

Hey guys - I'm new here but a now again Focus owner ;)

I picked up my new MK1.5 1.8 MP3 yesterday and so far I'm really happy with it ...Apart from a couple of minor issues!

1) When I pulled up on my drive and pressed the electric window button to bring the window up, it started to before then hearing a bit of a clunk and the window movement slowed right down to a stop (Great!). I kept pressing the button again a couple of times and I managed to get the window all the way up (thank goodness!) but now the window will not go down at all when the button is pressed. I can still hear the motor itself working up/down when I press the buttons so to me it just sounds like the window itself has come off the runner or something has gone wrong with the regulator?

2) The remote locking buttons do not work and I have to lock/unlock & open the boot directly via the key. I am let to believe that maybe the battery has gone but I think that I could do with having a totally new key cut & coded as I have to jingle the key a little bit for me to be able to lock/unlock the car and even when I start it as well! It looks like to me that my original blade on the key is pretty worn as the second key that I have got with the car looks much newer and locks/unlocks the car with ease without having to jingle it but sadly it's not coded into the immobilizer Am I right thinking that my local Timpton's branch will be able copy the spare key to cut me a brand new remote key & program it to the car's immobilizer?

Many thanks all and I will be doing a feature of my Focus soon :)

Liam

[mick85]

First point say u need a reg sadly they not cheap second hand or spurious be way to go an for second part u can buy tip of key of ford cut for less then 10er an remotes pretty cheap on eBay most common issues is the button half remote goes u can usually swap half remote so u wouldn have pay for programming key again but do try battery first

[LEK]

First point say u need a reg sadly they not cheap second hand or spurious be way to go an for second part u can buy tip of key of ford cut for less then 10er an remotes pretty cheap on eBay most common issues is the button half remote goes u can usually swap half remote so u wouldn have pay for programming key again but do try battery first

Thanks for the reply,

Yeah I could get the new key cut but it's getting it programmed with the immobilizer that is the last hurdle. I'm sure I read or heard somewhere that Timptons do the complete job & programming for around £90 all in. I've read as well about swapping over the chip inside the remote to a new one but I've heard that it's risky as the chip itself is glass coated and very delicate.

I'm going to see if I can take the door card off next weekend to look at the regulator, though what are the chances that it could be repaired without having to replace it? I'm surprised that it's playing up already as the car is on a 52 plate and has only done 73,000 miles. My first focus which was the same age but on 135,000 miles when I sold a couple of years ago had flawless electric windows, they never played up lol. Saying that though, my old one was a 5 door where as my new one is a 3 door.

Thanks - Liam

[mick85]

It's very common on that model for the reg to go an u would be fine swapping chip out if required but if u not comfortable tryin it 90 for new key an program ain't to bad if ya have the cash

[Stoney871]

Just buy a new CR2032 battery and a new key blade.

The programming of the central locking is a 1 minute job and the new Tibbe blade can be cut by reading the key code off the spare unworn blade.

Don't use Timpsons as they only clone the immobiliser code and therefore limits your ability to programme extra keys yourself.

Here is how to read your blade code yourself-

[LEK]

Just buy a new CR2032 battery and a new key blade.

The programming of the central locking is a 1 minute job and the new Tibbe blade can be cut by reading the key code off the spare unworn blade.

Don't use Timpsons as they only clone the immobiliser code and therefore limits your ability to programme extra keys yourself.

Here is how to read your blade code yourself-

$T2eC16dHJF8E9nnC8HljBRESZpW6z!~~60_12.jpg

Thanks for the advice,

If I did get the key cut myself and a new fob (I could do with getting a new one as well as on my existing one, the unlock button feels worn away or broken as it doesn't bounce when pressed) How would I then get it programmed with the immobilizer if I didn't go to Timptons?

Thanks - Liam

[GothicRebel]

If you've just bought it. Take it back and get them to fix it. Why should you have to repair something. When you've just bought it.

[LEK]

If you've just bought it. Take it back and get them to fix it. Why should you have to repair something. When you've just bought it.

Well at the time when I first viewed the car I had my eye on other important things to check out i.e the engine, exhaust & the bodywork etc. and therefore the issue with the key didn't really come into it at the time. I could take it back but in a way it was sold as seen but he did replace both front tyres for me as part of the deal and also the rocker cover gasket which I immediately spotted when I viewed the car.

Liam

[Stoney871]

Buy a replacement key from eBay with a new blade.

Get the new blade cut to code and swap the button side from the new key to the current battery side.

This saves you from either having to transplant the immobiliser chip from one case to another (removes the risk of breaking the glass) or having to get a new chip coded.

[LEK]

Buy a replacement key from ebay with a new blade.

Get the new blade cut to code and swap the button side from the new key to the current battery side.

This saves you from either having to transplant the immobiliser chip from one case to another (removes the risk of breaking the glass) or having to get a new chip coded.

Thanks a lot for your info mate,

I've just took apart my old key but to be honest the battery side looks completely knackered - the battery is barely held in place as one of the small plastic retaning clips is hanging by a thread which is causing the battery to sway up & down, and not to mention of course the battery itself has had it as it has leaked a bit of orange residue inside haha.

I've just had a look on eBay now and I've found a mobile specialist who offers a new complete remote key (supplied), cut to code and programming it to the immobilizer all for £70. The only thing is I will probably have to travel to Oldham as that is where he's based and he charges £1 per mile if he has to travel to me lol. I may give him a ring tomorrow.

Edit - from doing a search on here & thinking about it, I may just go ahead and order a brand new remote key assembly from eBay, get it cut to code and then carry out the chip transplant.

Thanks - Liam

[LEK]

I've just realised, I don't know the 6 digit T code for my existing keys unfortunately but say if I take a brand new blank key into Timpsons, will their cutting equipment be able to read the T code from my existing keys or do I need to supply them with it?

Thanks - Liam

[Stoney871]

If you look to the earlier post where I uploaded the key image then you can read the number yourself.

Also If you go to any Ford dealership they will usually read the T code for you if you're not 100% sure.

[LEK]

If you look to the earlier post where I uploaded the key image then you can read the number yourself.

Also If you go to any Ford dealership they will usually read the T code for you if you're not 100% sure.

Thanks again mate, I looked at a T code guide earlier and I'm 99% sure that I've worked out what my key is.

I purchased a complete remote key assembly from eBay earlier, I'm going to carry out the transponder swap when I get it and use my old blade with it until I get the new blade cut.

Liam

[Stoney871]

Cool.

Just slide the transponder out gently with a small screwdriver and ensure you refit it into the new key with the copper coil end facing exactly like in the original key.

[Stoney871]

[LEK]

Thanks again for the advice mate :) I will give it a go if the new remote key fob arrives tomorrow.

Liam

[LEK]

Right well after a bit of swapping around of most of the components I have now got a working remote fob again :)

Though I'm not too pleased about the new one that I recieved - I knew that it was an after market copy and it does look good but on the inside where the transponder sits, their was no rubber housing for it at all and the transponder that came with the new fob was practically glued i there! I did manage to get it out though as their was only a very tiny blob holding it in underneath and it prized out when using the screwdriver. I then managed to carefully push my existing transponder out of the old fob but upon inserting it into the new fob there was nothing that was securely holding it in, even when I assembled the new fob back together you could hear it rattling inside! I'm not impressed to say the least.

Anyway, I then had an idea - upon looking at the knackered (or so I thought) battery in the old fob I noticed that it had the wrong battery in it all along! (It had a 2035 one instead of the required 2032) So I put the new battery in the old battery compartment and then I put my old working transponder in it again, I then put the whole thing back together complete with the new button compartment but it wasn't a perfect fit unfortunately but it clipped into place just about. I then replaced the worn key blade back on it (which also struggled to fit snugly on due to the new button compartment!).

Then I went to the car and the remote locking worked after reprogramming but it was very hit & miss and required a few presses of the buttons for it to operate <_< Thankfully though despite swapping the transponder out and then putting it back in it's old original rubber housing again, the car started!

I then had another idea, I decided to recover the old battery housing, cleaned up the residue from the old battery and removed the old knackered button circuit board out of the old fob and then replaced it with the new circuit board that was supplied with the new fob and put the whole thing back together. I went back to my car and the remote locking now works perfectly and promptly upon pressing the buttons.

So as you can imagine, it still looks like that I'm using my old existing key fob except that it has got a new battery & a new button circuit board haha ;) I can live with the worn key blade for now as it will only sometimes be noticable when starting the car but I will get the new key blade cut very soon. Thanks a lot to all of you once again for your advice and help, much appreciated! :)

Liam

[Stoney871]

Glad you solved the problems.

[LEK]

Well I ordered a brand new window regulator complete with a new motor for the Focus the other day and I carried out the replacement this morning, and after an hours work I now have a fully functional drivers side window again :)

Removal of the electric mirror compartment and the door card was fairly easily, but my goodness - attempting to remove the weather foam really was a pain in the backside! After 5 minutes of trying to removal part of it I had another look around the layer and noticed bits of grey tape which blended with the foam was placed around the lower part of it, I decided to remove it only to discover that the previous owner or someone else had cut their way through it already in the past which to me suggests that the window had probably been playing up before and did something to fix it. Upon looking inside where the regulator is, as I thought originally the window had completely come off the runners and was practically being held in place by the door.

All of the bolt locations around the foam were cut as well which therefore allowed me to undo all of the bolts without too much trouble and after 5 minutes of faffing about rotating the old regulator I finally got it out! Upon looking at the old regulator, I'm not sure if it's the original one but to me I can't really tell if it's damaged - apart from both window runners where the rubber pieces look a bit worn and are warped out of place. Installation of the new regulator was pretty simple apart from having to rotate it around to fit into line with the bolts properly lol! I then pushed down and lined up the window with the runners and tightened the runner bolts up and gave the electric window a test - perfect! :) Re-fitting the door card was a bit of a pain to start with though (having to position the upper lip onto the door, tilting it and pushing it down into place) but apart from that all good.

I have suspicion though that the passenger side may need doing in the future as when you're pushing the button for the window to go up, when it gets to about 2 inches from the top there is a bit of a clunk but to me it sounds like that the window is catching part of the side supports which to me may suggest that it needs a clean.

Here is the eBay listing of the windows regulator that I got: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170781759647?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Thanks again for all of your help guys! :)

Liam

[Stoney871]

Good effort Fella.