most uk petrol pressure testing kits will fit/can be adapted to fit a ford, from memory, the ford rail doesnt have a schraeder valve {look like tyre valves} on the fuel rail, so will need to fit tester between the supply hose/fuel rail connection.

not really up to scratch with the cheap end of the market for software, heard good things about the ELM though, also hearing some good reports for the new Launch kit for androids, buy the bluetooth connector, then you can purchase the individual software for your particular car, supposed to be quite extensive for a number of, if not all the systems for that model, not just the usual engine module...worth a gander

being a user of Launch gear {top end of their machines}, one of the better all rounders when it comes to car communications

Cheers Ade I'll go have a look :)

Cheers Tony Food for thought will look in to it :)

I haven't had much time lately so not much to update apart from another reading from my basic code reader... Hoping to get some live graphs soon :)

TROUBLE CODE P0420

Fuel SYS1 CL,using H02S

Fuel SYS2 N/A

CALC LOAD(%) 40.3

COOLANT(*C) 108

ST FTRM1(%) 0.0

LT FTRM1(%) -5.4

MAP(kpa) 0

RPM 2220

VEH SPEED (81 Km/h) (50 mph)

in this instance, single readouts arent really going to tell you anything...for eg, the LT trim is showing a negative, which means its trying to correct a rich engine....but a few seconds later it might have showed either a higher negative or a positive figure.

this is why graphing is needed, so you can get an accurate picture from cold to hot and different rev ranges.

noticed this readout was taken at 50mph...for info, with fuel trims you dont need to drive to get your readouts, car can be stationary and a lot easier to view...just bear in mind that you want to see whats happening throughout the temp range as well as the rev range, also giving time at revs for trims to settle, such as holding 2k rpm for 1-2 minutes, holding at idle, then quick bursts of the throttle etc, etc

you can use the digital readouts for the tests too, but its a lot easier to view it as a graph

Thanks Tony :-) Understood

Hoping to get around to this shortly and display my results :-)

Found a thread on the rac forum with almost identical problem as mine. There was talk of checking the 'evap emmisions valve' not sure where this is on my car or how to test it. Also talk of butterfly valve not closing properly (most likely due to dirt) which affects the 'evap valve'

Could this be worth looking into?

I don't have a smell of petrol and I am not getting the same error code (P0172)

However I do experience the revs going up/down/up/down rhythmically and of course the flat spot.

I just thought it was interesting to read.

link to the thread below

http://www.rac.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?8868-ford-focus-1-6-System-Too-Rich-(Bank-1)

had a quick read of that, think your problems are different, not just the code.

poster was referring to hunting at idle etc, so unless you have forgotten to tell us this then has very little bearing...

with his particular problem the one reply was spot on, either a fault with the throttle butterfly or the evap.

in your case, the problem appears at above idle, this is the point the evap should kick in.. i really dont think this will be your issue, live data at idle will help to confirm this.

cleaning the throttle butterfly/chamber is always worth it, but wouldnt use a strong solvent such as carb cleaner...a bit of scrubbing with wd40 and a rag will do..if that proves to be not strong enough, then a dab of petrol

Nice one Thanks again Tony, nothing to lose, if nothing else its good practice.......slightly over due as its never been cleaned out.

:)

Going to take it on the chin and put the focus in to a diagnostic's garage tomorrow.

If I need another cat what cat should I get?

also which lambda sensors?

I was thinking NGK?

stick with quality makes if you need to change the 02 sensors, they are a vital part of the system...NGK are a safe bet...avoid the cheaper brands

catalytics are one of those 'get what you pay for' type parts...if the engine management system is working as it should, then you wont have a problem fitting a cheap cat, but it wont take as much to cause them to fail if you have any managment issues, now or in the future when compared to a high end catalytic

Cheers Tony, I agree.. you get what you pay for.

I like the idea of a sports cat. Not a boy racer and dont beleave it will make much odds I just hate the idea of a cat....

restricting the exhaust...

as my cat is welded in is it possable to cut and weld in new flanges so a new 'universal' cat can be bolted in?

I'd probally have to get flanges welded on to the new cat, unless there are universal cats ready made with flanges.... vut would be too easyeasy lol

there are a number of companies that will make an exhaust from scratch, be it a custom or a copy of an original, so finding one to carry out any necessary adaptions shouldnt be too hard..

mind you, they can be pricey

trying to locate a rear box for a Chevy Blazer recently, couldnt find one for love or money as this particular Blazer was built in Belgium, they were based on the Jimmy (i think) but lot of parts didnt cross over....went to a fabricator for a quote...£800 :o :o

was a very large box, granted, and not the easiest to shape, but...wow

managed to locate a genuine one for £200 eventually.

got a suspision you will need a rear sensor, but still feel you have an underlying problem, something along the lines of a faulty injector...chances are your cat will be ok, as if they start to fail they normally give up the ghost pretty quickly, if that was so, would expect more problems than your experiencing

just had another quick look at the data figures you posted.

noted both sets had LT fuel trims showing a negative (though not excessive)

dont think i explained the trims very well before, but in brief, the ST trim is the instant adjustments made to the injector openings in response to what (mainly) the 02 sensors are registering, they go from positive to negative very rapidly (ie, lean/rich)

whereas the LT trim is an overall base setting for the ECU, based on the average of the ST trims, so in other words, though the LT trims on yours arent excessive, it is suggesting that, overall, the engine is running slightly on the rich side, though not rich enough for the 02 sensors to not cope.. in a perfect system, the LT trim would be 0

worth knowing that everytime fault codes are cleared, the LT trim is set back to 0, then adjusted to sut next time engine is running and gone into closed loop.....thus endeth the lesson ;) :D

but, as said, figures are just a snapshot, graphing is far more accurate

for anyone interested...a positive trim will make the ecu keep the injectors open longer (more fuel) to combat a lean mix,

a negative trim will make the ecu close the injectors quicker (less fuel) to combat a rich mix

Hey Tony Thanks for your input :) Always good to get a good understanding of these things, don't know of anywhere else I could improve my knowledge and understanding.

I put my car into the diagnostic garage yesterday, Turns out.............. so far..... The Cowboys who fitted my front pipe used exhaust paste (probably with the old gasket) between the front pipe and cat (Which is a Big no no... invalidates the warranty) Further more the exhaust is leaking at that join........... So obviously this will be messing up the Lambda readings...... He showed me my crankshaft position sensor was randomly switching on and off so that's going to give incorrect signals to the ecu.

He also checked for leaks by doing a smoke test using a canister of compressed smoke which was fine, he also done a compression check and was very happy with the results, all even and higher than he expected for the millage. he also done a 4 gas test.... results below.

CO level @ idle 0.36 % (max 0.00 to 0.30)

HC level @ idle 136 ppm

CO2 level @ idle 13.52 %

02 Level @ idle 2.34 %

Calculated Lambda @ idle 1.10

well i can tell you my figures on an 80k 1.6 tivct

co level 0.5%

hc ;evel 100ppm

co2 14.5

co2 level 0.3%

lambda 0.98-1.02

Hopfully my figures will improve once I fix the exhaust fit new lambda's and CS sensor.....

those emission figure may very well back up their diagnosis, so cant knock that.

in a (rough) nutshell

your o2 reading is high: (0.5-1% is the target)

possibly detecting unregulated air from pre cat exhaust leak...this could mess up all the other figures '(particularly Lambda, which is reading an average of slightly high...expected when you have an exhaust leak)

your CO2 reading is slighly low (14-15%)

only marginal, but a low co2 is normally associated with a misfire, as your reading is close, it may be to do with either the exhaust or possibly the crank sensor issue

both CO and HC are high

again, only marginal, but these are the ones that need further checking once suggested repairs are done..if the new sensors dont correct this then you could be looking elsewhere for a fault...something very minor, such as a need to service injector/s, but if you continue with those figures then long term you will get further problems with 02 sensors/cat

ideally looking for 0.1% give or take CO and an HC lot nearer 0 than 100.

those readouts make perfect sense of the fuel trims though, be interested to hear the outcome

Arts, not sure if that was a typo mate, but your CO is high if it was taken on a warmed up engine, could do with a lower HC too,

if the 0.3% figure is meant to be 02, then that is also slightly high...even the smallest exhaust leak can cause this or possibly an air leak elsewhere.

oops wrong readings heres the proper ones sorry fast idle test

co level max limit 0.200 actual 0.026%

hc level max limit 200ppm actual 48ppm

labda max limit 1.030 min limit 0.970 actual 0.998

natural idle test co 0.021% ford test reults emission system pass 2nd test not required

that was on a warm engine so the tester had to leave it running till the fan cut in

:) thats better

should note that lambda readouts dont reflect the state of the 02 sensors, its more of an overall managment system figure, anything within that system can effect the lambda readout as well as any exhaust leaks, poor oil condition etc

,

Tony your a Legend, I really appreciate your help and advice and that you have taken a keen interest in my problem(s) with my focus :D

Think I'll have to source a good quality exhaust gasket...... any ideas where?

Also going to email the local garage regarding poor quality work............... 's

tbh, you'd find it harder to buy a poor quality gasket, than a good one....just look for any decent exhaust supplier.

exhaust paste on pre cat joints is a definite no no...think its even written on vast majority of tins/tubes etc

no problem with the help, this is the sort of work i like getting my teeth into, gradually building up the equipment and knowledge with the aim of specialising more in petrol diagnostics in the future...though preferably with the car in front of me than over the www :D

Nice one mate, that's cool :) you're an asset to the the club

what do you think of this? http://injectortune.co.uk/Injector_Shop.html

Once I get my car under control I was thinking it might be worth while??

tbh, would save your money unless injectors are proved to be a problem, on more modern systems and with better fuel, petrol injectors are no longer causing as many problems as they did in days gone past...

if your handy with the spanners, then testing fuel spray patterns and checking for leakage faults is fairly straightforward, not the definitive of tests but will give you a good idea if servicing them is required