Hi All,

I have a 53 Reg Focus TDci 115 which I think is therefore a MKI

It has nearly 148,000 miles and has been a trusty servant

No major problems apart from the Dual Mass flywheel (common problem) & clutch were replaced after only 32k miles and camshaft sensor replaced (car stalling)

Cam belt changed by Ford at 100k

I started off using Ford to service for the first 70k and now do it myself

Anyway - The car has been getting more difficult to start over the last year

Seems to be worse on damp days or if left for a week or two (i.e. been away on holiday)

A couple of weeks ago I was flogging it to the airport as we had overslept for my flight

I dropped the kids at T5 and started the car to park at my work

On the way the Glow Plug light illuminated and acceleration was limited

Made it to the car park

On the way back home same thing

Cured by turning the ignition on then off and on again

Did some research and EGR valve stuck seemed a common problem

Anyway the glowplugs have never been changed and I had bought a set from Amazon some months back so I decided to tackle the job

Now this is where I may have induced a problem

I was advised to squirt WD40 around the plugs prior to removal as they have been known to sieze

I got the plugs out (which were black), fitted the new plugs and dropped several nuts in the process of re-fitting the supply tabs

To help gain access I thought it would help to remove the fuel injector pipes (bad idea)

This I did for the left hand 2 injectors only

I undid the pipes from the circular manifold thingy and from the top of the injectors and then removed the plastic connectors with clips on

This did not really improve access so I removed the turbo air filter part + hoses and now I could see the wood for the trees

Re-fitted all and tried to start

Was reluctant to start, but eventually caught but was really rough

Took for a test drive and gradually returned to what I think feels normal

At this point it becomes a bit hazy

I think I had been advised to flog it "Italian Treatment" in case it was a stuck EGR valve

But I still got the limp home after a few days

I think (but not 100% sure) it was starting worse, but starting

I then changed the fuel filter, filled it with a funnel and started

Took a while but started

The oil level was low, so I topped up

Now when I start it takes forever

I have found that keeping in gear and letting the clutch out as I start can help

I never really get smoke when I start, but after it has turned over for a minute or two (several attempts to start), I get a cloud of Blue / White smoke

I am told this is unburned fuel

Theories are air in the fuel, Injector, cam position sensor, crankshaft sensor (are these the same)

Take your pick

Today it was a pig to start (damp and raining)

I took it to the Shell garage put top grade performance fuel in, added more additive to my fuel

Limp home came on while accelerating around 40mph

I had read that there may be an "O" ring on the fuel pipes to the filter (I removed the pipes had a look but could not see any).

The Haynes manual shows an indicator that lines up against the bracket, but the filter I bought had none.

Also my engine says Enduro 115, but the filter procedure in the manual is for a Duratec (Strange)

Anyway I started the car and it started first time

This was despite having just removed the pipes

I had removed a nut by the dipstick when I was changing the plugs, and it looks like a Earth is connected to the same part further down and the nut was loose i.e. Not making a decent contact with the chassis.

I tightened it tday - May make a difference - Time will tell

The car seems to start ok within 30 minutes of being shutdown

Maybe fuel is leaking back into the tank ?

I did the dashboard trick and shows NONE under DTC codes

I used to get smoke out the exhaust when I kicked the turbo in, but now I do not get any smoke out of the exhaust (apart from the Blue/White when I start)

So I may have two problems

One I have induced by maybe getting some dirt in the glow plug holes, injectors or something to do with the fuel filter change

Something causing the Limp Home - possibly EGR

I think I need to dismantle half the engine to get to the EGR valve ??? Enduro 115

We have tested the battery and it appears fine, there is plenty of oomph from the starter motor (does not mean it is not duff)

When I turn the ignition we get around 80 Amps read via a current clamp on the Glow Plug Common supply lead.

However this only lasts for around 4 seconds before returning to 0 Amps

We wondered if the Current should peak at 80 then slowly reduce but retain a decent level for a while ?

If that were the case it would suggest Engine Temp sensor may be duff as giving a false reading or a relay is not holding or making

I still have the old glow plugs and will test them tonight to see if they are less than 5 Ohm and maybe re-fit them

My colleague has a fault reader but not sure it will work as for a VW (will try tonight)

I was looking on Ebay to see if I could invest in one but not sure if OBD or other protocol because most websites say Diesel from 2004 use OBD

I was going to cycle through the common problems i.e. change more parts

Fuel Contol Valve is £80+ Other sensors start at £16 - £32 new

I could go to a scrap merchant I suppose

But I thought I would ask advice on this forum first

Hope someone can advise

Thanks in advance

Hi All

Latest update

I bought a Fault Code Reader and it came up with the following

P1211 Injector Control Pressure Higher/Lower than desired level

P2291 Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking

P0251 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control A

I started the car at lunch time(it had been sat idle for 2 days)

It tool about 4 attempts and I had to let out the clutch and roll downhill off the drive to help it

I drove to Tesco (about 3 miles away) shopped for 20 minutes and it started within 5 seconds on the 1st key turn

Left it for aout 4 hours while I did yet more research on my computer while waiting for the Amazon man to deliver the scanner

Started on the 2nd attempt

At first the software did not see the PCM, but with engine started and the connector plugged in I could see the fault codes

I noted them down, cleared them and then re-started

As it was warm it started ok and there were no fault codes

My hope is that come tomorrow when it refuses to start again that It may log some or all of the fault codes again

I will drive steady (i.e. not cause the limp home mode and re-scan)

I am wondering

A) if the aftermarket filter is at fault

B) There is a minute hose leak causing fuel to leak away back into the tank

C) Taking the 2 injector pipes off when I did the glow plugs caused a problem

I can only assume that the fuel pump is functioning, because it drives ok

The acceleration felt a bit off the other day below 2000 RPM and I felt that if I floored it the limp home mode was going to kick in

Just felt flat

Today felt better at low revs

Anyway if anyone can think of some simple home tests I can do before I am forced to spend money going down to the Ford Franchise or giving up and selling, please advise

Does anyone know the dimensions of the fuel hoses, so I can maybe insert a clear section in between the filter and the intake to see if I can see bubbles

Anyway to test the fuel pressure valve short of swapping it out

Could I have a subtle leak still on the injector pipes (did not see any seals on them but maybe there were ?)

I will await any answers

Thanks

Latest Update

I changed the fuel filter (again) for a Bosch

Started first time, but then it was a warm day and I had used the car a few hours before

Next day - Back to normal - Would not start

The next morning I decided to check the fuel level in the filter

Disconnected the pipes and tried to top up, but was already full

So I have fuel up to my filter

But may not have fuel in my High Pressure Pump or pipes leading to it

I tried to start the car, same problem

I checked my old glow plugs. All 4 were shot.

So the car had been starting fine without glow plugs for ages

Would explain why it was a bit reluctant on cold damp days

Next day at work, we attached a spare battery with jump leads and tried to start - still no joy

We measured voltage drop with the key in the ignition suggesting the new glow plugs were energizing

Decided to check torque on glow plugs and noticed that I had not tightened the nut on the far left plug (I thought I had)

Removed all plugs but 1 sheared

So fitted 3 glow plugs back and torqued to 17NM

Like a fool I forgot to con check the resistance to see if they were ok

Got a new Bosch plug from Eurocarparts and fitted today

Also fitted a new Camshaft sensor

Still won't start

The only way to get it to go is stick it in reverse and let out the clutch as I roll backwards off the drive while turning the starter motor

I wanted to do a leak off test before I remove my injectors but the pipes are really small and I do not know the size

The only fault codes I get are both fuel pressure related

Fuel Pressure at crank or Injector Fuel pressure Control A

One is induced by booting it and then the glow plug light flashes

The other if turn the starter motor over for too long

The car does not feel as responsive now

some days it does, others not

Is it possible that even though the car has been running for weeks, I have an airlock in the High Pressure Fuel Pump (or a leak in a pipe near it)

Is it possible for fuel to drain into the engine and when I try and start, 1 or more chambers are full of fuel

This may explain the white smoke and it sounding like a tank until it is warmed up after I jump start it

I bought a new crank position sensor but I think I need to crawl under the car to fit that (so have not yet)

If anyone can help I would really appreciate it as so far I have had zero replies

The EGR valve is not helping. I would suggest that it is at least removed and cleaned, spit polished, and go from there.

As for the fuel, I am beginning to wonder if its a fuel pump issue?

Unfortunately this level of diagnostics goes over my head, as I cant think of anything else other than those you have tested, but I would advise that with a level of complexity, members who are just enthusiasts and not thorough bred mechanics wont really be able to contribute, which is likely the reason you havent had any replies.

blank of the egr valve. have a look around you injectors/pipework and see if you can see any diesel/bubbles etc.... did you replace the o ring in the filter housing (the cap) once you replaced the filter? a derv doesnt really need glow plugs in order to start, unless in really cold temps.. i ran mine for about 6mths without noticing i had no live in feed to my glow plugs...

blue smoke is oil burning... white smoke is water vapour... black smoke is running to rich (unburnt fuel)

The filter type had 3 connections with yellow 'O' rings. I did not replace as looked intact ( but I could maybe get some more)

I sprayed leak detector round the engine today - no leaks, hissing or bubbles

I bought some 3.2mm clear tube and 4 small bottles of Evian

I plan to make a homemade leak off test kit tomorrow and see how the injectors are

The assumption is correct that it does not rely on glow plugs to start

I think I am either looking at air in the high pressure system, maybe a problem with the vacuum pump or fuel in the cylinder at startup

Not sure if you can flood a diesel

May have to bite the bullet and take it to a garage, but probably give up and buy a newer car in a few weeks if I can't fix it

Definately replace the O rings they have to be done, as otherwise its just a constant gripe in the way.

I am not entirely sure if you can bleed the high pressure system though, although I suspect there must be a way

I did a homemade "Leak Off Test". Used 4x small Evian water bottles, and added water and marked each bottle 50,100,150 & 200ml

Drained and dried

Drilled holes in the tops and put the 3.2mm washer hose in each

Took the car for a 20 min drive then tested

Used 2 methods

1) Idle for 1 min then hold at 3000 rpm for 30 secs then shutoff

But the hose on the far right kept popping out and spraying fuel at the high rpm

This was also filling much faster than the others

2) Idle for 2 mins then rev to max, idle then repeat rev to max two more times

In hindsight it did say to wait 30 secs between revs, but I did not spot that at the time

Results

Looking inwards from from front

Far left - 50ml

2nd - 75ml

3rd - 120ml

Far right - 150ml

So far from ideal

When I came to empty the bottles, there was a lot of pressure in the Far right, the tube wanted to pop out and it sprayed fuel

Normally the car starts when warm, but took a long time with the bottles connected

Mind you the normal leak off pipes were now open ended so not returning fuel to the high pressure pump

I think I will give the injectors a sonic clean at work on Friday

I watched some more You tube videos on detecting a faulty low pressure fuel pump

I get the impression that some cars have a sender pump or lift pump in the fuel tank or somewhere in the line

When I came to check the fuses and relays in my engine they are not fitted

So my question is, how does the fuel get to the engine

Does the High pressure pump drag it up as it turns

I had heard that therefore air in the system prevents this, which could be the cause of the problems

On the plus side of all this, my knowledge of diesel systems is now much better

If your going to the effort with cleaning them, I would suggest you buy some valves and replace the valves at the same time, cheaper than new injectors and more likely to offer a good result.

injectors out, and re-seat correctly/replace washers etcccc...

this is true, the high pressure pump does all the work, if there is a air in the system the car will struggle to start, but i would of thought it would blow it out thro the injectors or some where along the line.... im not sure if there is a bleed nipple on the high pressure pump but there could be... give these boys a ring for some info they sorted mine out once or twice

http://www.gwdale.co.uk/Services.html

all's you need is a pin hole in the system to cause problems.... as stated change the o rings, just check areas worked on with a fine tooth comb....