diddles Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Sorry, I meant test mode, what does it read when driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Pointless to look it will go up and down as you accelerate slow down etc etc should be around 135 head temp which will be 95 degree coolant temp but it will go up and down simply put if theres no running issues the gauge works the fans work it doesnt overheat leave it alone lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yeah, but as an average temp, mine will read an average temp of 77 but will go up and down a few degrees. Will only ever get close to 90 while being stationary and revving it for a bit. So I do think I have thermostat issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 117 in test mode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 77 degrees which given the cold temps isnt unusual easy way to tell is after a drive let tue car sit and idle with bonnet up the yemp should increase then eventually the fan will come on.you need to remember that its cold outside add to that if youre using the heater this also is drawing hot air from the engine so you sound fine to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 It was the same in the summer. If a thermostat was working correctly it should really get up to 90 when driving, mine never does, it rarely gets to 80 even when it's 25℃ outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Fourspeed, how much did you pay for the thermostat and is it a genuine ford one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 If its a petrol then yes it should get up to 90 its therefore overcooling so the thermostat is likely stuck open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yes its a 1.8 duratec. I will fit a new thermostat and fingers crossed it will cure it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 this is a video of the temperature after 20 minutes of driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourspeed Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 117 in test mode 117 is exactly my test mode read before thermostat change, now i have around 132-135 while driving and the fan has kicked so that will be 92-95 on coolant temp. Fourspeed, how much did you pay for the thermostat and is it a genuine ford one? i pay US49 and yes it is FoMoCo genuine ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Thanks, I'll get one on order today, I'll update with the results when fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 I've got a new thermostat from Ford for £35 will be fitting it as soon as possible. I think the how the gauge reads the coolant temperature is a really bad design flaw as there could be a lot of Ford's with dodgy thermostats and the driver wouldn't even know as the gauge always reads 90℃ even though it's not even close. Hopefully it hasn't caused any damage due to bore wash etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 i tested mine tonight and it read 134 after a short 10 mile trip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourspeed Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 i tested mine tonight and it read 134 after a short 10 mile trip That is what i get after thermostat change, 132-135 on short trip which is i believe the optimum engine running temp. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 What symptoms made you think your thermostat was faulty, before you checked the temperature in test mode. My car has been pinking and a bit jerky on the motorway when accelerating. Hopefully the thermostat will cure all this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourspeed Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 First symptom is worst MPG, after long search and change sensors, plugs but still the same. Then i look on the temp and found its 117 which is too cool. First i change the ECT sensor but no luck because its only read the temp. So last thing is thermostat. It looks fine you can't tell it is already broken, weak or not. But after i change it the temp back to normal but i haven't calculate the MPG's. My engine is pinking but its gone after i cleaned the throttle body and put some carb cleaner into plugs hole through the engine piston bore. But i think it has to be done by professional, mine was done by my racer and mechanic friend. He said pinking is caused by dirty engine with carbon, sludge, gum and else. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Just fitted the thermostat and its warming up to 95℃ (135℃ on test mode) where it pretty much stays now. So just a tip to everyone to check there coolant temperature via the test mode as the gauge will not tell you if your car is underheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourspeed Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Sweet. Glad to hear your car is resolved. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutomatedAnimal Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hi is your car still ok? I've have a similar problem only the gauge hardly moves. I had the thermostat replaced and all worked well for about a week then back to how it was before. The garage says the thermostat won't have failed and thinks it could be something else but doesn't know what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 As its the gauge it could be a faulty sensor not telling the gauge the correct temp as above check the temp via test mode if its okay there then its a faulty sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutomatedAnimal Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 The engine temperature in test mode is always 30 degrees above the gauge temperature. Both increase and decrease at the same time. Mpg is down by about 8mpg. The garage doesn't think it's the thermostat gone again where it was a "genuine" ford part used. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutomatedAnimal Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I have a thread here where I've posted some photos. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67587-1%2E6-Petrol-Focus-Under-Heating Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tl1949@live.com.au Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 Hi all.I have a 2009 lv focus 2 lt petrol .70.000km's on it when I bought it a year ago At the first cold start, I noticed the temp gauge went to the normal position in 2 minutes. Took it to Ford.They tried another instrument cluster first & then a sensor.Neither made any difference.They did all the software updates etc. They advised me to take it to the auto electrician they use to fix difficult problems. So far they've had it for 3 weeks, i get it back for the weekends,as I use my motorbike during the week. This problem is really bugging them, and they want me to bring it back again, to find out why. We know the sensor runs though a computer to the gauge. Every thing is working as it should except that. I had the same car ,but with a diesel engine before this one, and gauge was perfect There are no temperature , or fan ,or thermostat issues with it. It's just annoying .I like things to work correctly. If they solve it I will let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny170666 Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 On 5/23/2014 at 10:21 AM, artscot79 said: 111 is the head temp which will go up and down depending on many factors as you put the foot down more fuel is injected creating a bigger and hotter bang so the temp will go up due to this bigger hotter explosion in the engine as you ease off it will be less hot and so the temp will go down the test you are using will give you the heads temperature not the engine temp which is calculated by the ecu by taking the head temp and coolant temp together and working it out 90 degrees is not the optimum temp most cars run at over 100 degrees now for increased fuel efficiency as i said the gauge shows 90 but that is just a guide the coolant temp is what is shown on the gauge not engine temp and that wont always sit at 90 it can open it 90-96 degrees the gauge may say 90 when the temp is actually 60 degrees because its in that window where the ecu says the cars warmed up if the gauge is instantly hitting the centre then its either the coolant sensor or the head temp sensor the coolant sensor is located on the thermostat housing on the right side of the engine i will say sometimes you may open a can of worms by touching it if replacement doesnt fix what you see as an issue then youll be replacing bits forever I agree on all said above on own exp lol changed sencor thinking faulty new one done same strait to middle after a few mins. Only prob after doing that is due to fiddling lol the lambada 1 and 2 sensors where going haywire out of range high voltage. Right as e10 fuel came to. So can imagine the was it me or is it the fuel lol its been 3 weeks now lambada 1 is back which is smoother running esp from cold lol slight touch of throttle and it died on cold guess that's due to no ft measuring from sencor so default.. possible cause moisture from loosening the thermostat and changing I did check plugs terminals over and over but then the purge solenoids started playing up to. My end suspicious now all is back apart from sencor 2 after cat. Is there's a break in the loom or something that's saying "don't you dare" far in the wiring and the water that spooned when changing the sencor must of got in there lol yea that started to feel like a right can of worms. Then read about the gauge getting signal from ecu ie computer at a meh est it will do range not lazy sender but directly connected so something should be rong logic. I keep itching to fix the second one but. Yea performance back eml has gone off. I'm done with it 🤣🤣 ✌ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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