diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 HI, I've recently brought a 1.8 duratec mk2 Ford focus with 46,000 miles on an 07 plate. I love the car but just a few things which I want to sort out. At low revs when accelerating there is what sounds like a slight pinking noise from the engine, is these quite common, the air filter and spark plugs are new. Also when driving there is a faint knocking from the drivers side front when going over uneven roads. Top mounts? When starting car from cold the belt is making a squeaking noise untill the car has warmed up. Are these stretch belts fitted on these? And is the tensioner common to get noisy? Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Hi Martin, the pinking noise could be due to a slight misfire, the spark plugs may be new, but did you replace the HT leads also? the coil pack may be on its way out, but replace the HT Leads first. The knocking noise could be the top mount, but it could also by the CV joint. As for the squeak, the tensioners have been known to go, it would be worth having these replaced if the issue persists, but it sounds like at least the bearings are on their way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 It doesn't have leads just has four coil packs. Doesn't feel like it's misfiring, unless it's the tensioner making a noise similar to pinking. Are the belts stretch fit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 I believe they are none stretch, but cant swear to it, but unless I am missing something, you still need a way to get the high voltage spark from the coil pack to the spark plugs, so you should have some for of lead gong from the coil pack out to the spark plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Thanks I will fit a belt first as a squirt of wd40 made it go away. The lead looks like it's built onto the coil pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 have you got a photo? I am not overly familiar with the engine you are referring to but perhaps someone else could clarify where I may be going wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Duratec/Electrical%20components.htm It's the picture on the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 OK so, it sounds like there is something wrong somewhere on the wiring harness, I bet its related to the sensors (one or multiple). I expect that the relay and ecu connector are not getting all of the appropriate values, and so the engine just uses default values rather than accurate realtime ones. I wonder if its misreading, or not putting the right amount of fuel in for the actual amount of air that there is in the system, thus causing the knocking. It could be a bad lead, bad connector, bad sensor, its difficult to say. How new are these sparkies, and if they are all built into this system, where they all replaced together, as it looks like one loom, one unit? Did you replace just the coil plug in units? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Yeah sounds possible, but I'm not 100% sure it's actually pinking or just something that sounds similar, maybe the tensioner it's not thatbad and only intermittently. There are no faults might give the o2 sensors a clean and the maf sensor if it has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 definately worth a try, and check if it has any error codes if you can (where are you in Kent? - I might be able to help with reading the codes if you need it?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Thanks for the offer, I have read the faults with my torque app on my phone and on the cluster and showing no faults. I'm in west Wickham. Trying to find locations of components on this engine is a nightmare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 not sure where that is, lol as I am a northern boy at heart, I know my way around most of medway, and down to ashford, anywhere else is beyond me lol. The Torque app only queries the instrument cluster and the general repository for error codes. I have an airbag light on, have had the Cruise control disconnect itself once or twice, along with an immobiliser error (chip in key broke!) Torque didnt pick them up, but I have a modified ELM cable and FORSCAN on my laptop which I used to scan all the modules on the car and that gave me all the errors. It gave me a lot more info! Torque is good, it accesses a lot of live data but it is generic along with the bluetooth, whereas tools like ELM and FORSCAN are more designed for the Ford, Mazda and similar ranges, so knows which modules to ask which question, rather than asking generally what errors might be in the central repository! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 I downloaded a Torque add on to monitor detonations, and its coming up with possible detonations. I know its not accurate but its probably is pinking then, might put in new plugs or clean the coil packs out and I don't think I noticed it before replacing the spark plugs. I fitted the correct iridum NGK spark plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Does anyone know what the gap should be on the ngk ITR6F-13 (4477) as I want to remove them and check the gaps are correct. Thanks Also does anyone know what make of plug does ford use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 book says 1.3 I believe but its the 1mm gap that makes it work correctly as far as I know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Thanks, I will check them tomorrow. I took off the coils and sprayed the leads with electrical cleaner and it seems better. It's not that bad but don't really want it to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Good contact are key but it's worth checking the gap Sent from my MY SAGA C2 using Ford OC mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 27, 2014 Author Share Posted June 27, 2014 I checked the gap on the plugs and they are all fine. I was just checking the short term fuel trims on Torque Pro app and they seem to be fine when cruising, but when i floor it the fuel trim goes to around 10-15% which indicates running lean, also when driving full throttle the throttle position never reads above 76%. Shouldn't it goes to 100% or is it cutting how open the throttle is because of the lack of fuel? I not sure how accurate this app reads the sensors as the car drives fine. Also noticed when flat out in 2nd gear the throttle position goes to 75% then at about 4,500rpm it goes down to 45% but seems to accelerate well. Not sure if i trust the readings i am getting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share Posted June 28, 2014 My engine light has come on now and its coming up with PO138. I cleaned the o2 sensor connections last night with electrical cleaner so I'm guessing this has something to do with it. Checked o2 sensor voltage on torque app they stay at 1.3 volts and not fluctuating like they should. What have I done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share Posted June 28, 2014 have fault codes PO138, PO132 and P1132? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Not at a pc now otherwise would check all the codes but Google 'Ford etc (code number) and you will get some more info. Sounds like the 02 sensor might not been reinstalled correctly or if it's not connected right it might be just getting a short out reading Sent from my MY SAGA C2 using Ford OC mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 The connections seem fine, going to check continuity between the wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Checked continuity between the wires and they all seem fine, I'm at a loss now don't know what could have happened! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diddles Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 It says on the torque app, system in open loop due to systems failure, anyone have any ideas, I think the sensors are ok and the wiring seems ok. I've disconnected the battery and still no good, could I have damaged the ecu some how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Po138 -The Heated Oxygen Sensor (2) located rear of catalytic converter produces an output signal relative to oxygen storage capacity of catalytic converter.Ho2S 2 signal is less active than signal produced by front oxygen sensor. This code sets when HO2 Sensor voltage is greater than 999 mV for more than 2 minutes (time depends on model. Could be as high as 4 minutes) P0132 - This involves the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. This code indicates that the heated oxygen sensor reading is too high. In the case of Ford vehicles, that indicates the voltage at the sensor is over 1.5 volts. Other vehicles may be similar. P1132 Ford - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Bank 1 - A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating rich at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-lean condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.- Leaking fuel injector bank 1- EGR stuck open- Engine mechanical condition Hopefully this helps! The Heated OxygenSensor (2) located rear of catalytic converter produces an output signalrelative to oxygen storage capacity of catalytic converter.Ho2S 2 signal is less active than signal produced by front oxygensensor. This code sets when HO2 Sensor voltage is greater than 999 mVfor more than 2 minutes (time depends on model. Could be as high as 4minutes)Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0138Copyright © OBD-Codes.com Ho2S 2 signal is less active than signal produced by front oxygen sensor. This code sets when HO2 Sensor voltage is greater than 999 mV for more than 2 minutes (time depends on model. Could be as high as 4 minutes)Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0138Copyright © OBD-Codes.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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