Hi guys ,

Have a problem with my 56 reg 1.8tdci focus ghia so here it goes. Dash board lights illuminate including handbrake , abs , airbag etc just like when turning the ignition on. At the same time the radio cuts off and if I'm

Indicating they stop too. It can last for a split second or sometimes up to 20 seconds also sometimes it does it all the time and other journey's nothing at all. I wouldn't be that bothered but with the indicators being effected and it napping on several occasions on roundabouts etc it's becoming an issue. I've checked all visual wiring in the engine bay , steering column , passenger footwell fuse box and boot loom with the wiggle test and none of them can replicate the fault. I've had code readers on it and one fault that keeps re appearing is lost communication with body control module. Not sure if it's related but also nearly every journey I get the red light appear and a message saying engine component fault , but since then I noticed the turbo intercooler elbow was split so is that the cause for the latter fault ?

Any help is greatly welcomed , thanks.

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I'd say to go through all the connections again on the passenger fusebox/GEM/BCM. Unplug each connection, have a look at the pins to see in case any have backed out of position maybe any bent ones too though this is probably unlikely with a car that's been in service for as long as yours then reseat it and lock it down in place.

When you checked the engine bay wiring did that include the battery terminal connections too? that's worth doing if you haven't already - wiggle check not just a look-see.

Can't say if the IC elbow being split would cause problem as serious as something similar to the ignition going on and off, has replacing the split pipe made any difference?

Hi , yer did try battery connections but I'll go through the fuse box and battery again and post any findings. Not been able to test since I replaced the pipe due to having to get one ordered but I've temporary taped it up and the car is driving much better for the short duration I was driving it. Could it possibly be water ingress anywhere as it could be coincidental but yesterday morning the fault was really bad. Thanks for the reply.

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Evening all,

I've checked all connections in fuse box and battery but none are recreating the fault or are loose.

The "engine system fault " has now gone since I taped up the intercooler hose while I wait for a new one.

Just took undertray off and found the live to the fan corroded and very close to the metal housing. I was thinking maybe this could be shorting out ? Pic to follow

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I kinda had the issue. It fixed the indicator when I pull down the passenger fuse box and pushed in the blue smaller connector further in. Blue connectors are dash, green is engine bay and brown is floor. If you have rpm, temp everything showing up on the cluster might just be a faulty bcm. But you could try silicone paste on all connections which should help connectors.

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Revs , speedo etc stay working fine. Taped up the live from the radiator fan but still same issue. Sorry to sound stupid but what's a BCM ?

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Sorry presume you mean Body control module. Just me being a bit thick. Lol

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The bcm is the gem. Controls thing to do with the body of the car so lights, indicators, dash, radio etc. You have an issue with the gem, bcm which is the passenger fuse box thing. You should check all connections, check water damage etc.

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Are they a straight swap or do they require programming up ? Had a look and all connections seem ok , so I'm presuming I need to get a new unit.

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If you replace it with one that is from a higher trim car then it's a straight swap and you would just need to program the keys to the central locking unless you have elm cable. If you get it from a lower trim car you run into problems like having to do a full reprogram and in some cases you may still lose feature. An example is a lx gem module don't have some fuses for heated seats however higher trim cars do. It is also recommended you get the same fuel type module. So if you have petrol get a petrol and same litre if possible but I don't think the litre makes a diffrence. And when you put the new module in use silicone paste it should protect it from water and dirt in the future and make the connector slid into place. Push in all the connectors once finished and you should be done.

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Thanks , I ll look at getting one off a ghia or titanium then. Is reprogramming the central locking easy ?.

Fingers crossed this will solve the issue !!

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I don't remember the methoud but you need your keep turning you key in the barrel . Something like that. Once you do that it turn the central locking back on as it turns off for some reason.

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Just been reading other posts and it has just dawned on me that the faults started a few months ago when I replaced the battery. I bought it from halfords and just went online and put in my reg for it and it comes up with the lead acid battery not the calcium one. Could this be the issue with the smart charge ?

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Yes it could be the issue. You need to use silver calcium only.

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Will the above pic be ok ? It's a calcium battery but not sure if it's silver ? Although has a silver label. Thanks

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I think this one is better .

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-wiper-blades-batteries/batteries/yuasa-12v-silver-car-battery-hsb063-5-yr-guarantee#tab2

However it's best you go in store and check for prices, help and getting the right size battery for the car.

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If you do go to store just tell them your looking for a silver battery or calcium but silver I'd Better. And it for a focus they should be able to get the right battery. But shop around as halfords charge way to much sometimes.

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Thanks , the lead acid battery in the car is in it due to being the recommended one by Halfords !!!! So I was going to take it back and use it as a deposit off the new one. Just worried that if all there systems including internet recommend lead acid for a diesel focus then will they now give me the right one? Think I know what I'm looking for now with your help. Many thanks :-) I'll post the outcome later after I've severely raid tested a new battery.

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It's seems you have gone to a store where they seem to not care much about, or not trained in knowing what batteries go in what car. Best bet get the battery I sent you the link for. The battery needs to be silver calcium, reason is if you have ac or not the battery should be fully compatible. Get the silver and check the size and hopefully you issues will be gone.

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Just thought I'd show you what the halfords website offers for the mk2 focus.

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It would be the silver one. But expensive for 104. I'm sure you can get a Bosch battery off eBay cheaper.

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Thing is I think I've got the standard lead battery advertised with it so for £20 more may as well get it and take old one back. Am I right in thinking the lead one shouldn't show up as the recommended standard battery ?

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It should show up. Halfords tends to show stuff which isn't recommanded for a focus sometimes. It happen to my when trying to find car bulbs. I think the website don't really work how it ment. But the staff should have really helped.

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Go eurocarparts.

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