Boot lock not working

[Big Dave]

I've just bought a used 1999 focus lx, the boot does not open using the key (in lock or remote) or using the button on the dash. I can open it manually from the boot however. Also it is missing the rubber seal on the boot (this may or may not be important).

This looks to be quite a common issue, does anyone know if i need to replace the whole lock unit or does the missing rubber seal play some part (doubtful).

If, as i suspect it is a new unit required, do i HAVE to get it configured to work with my central locking or will it be ok to just open it with a key? Money's to tight to mention so the cheapest option is what's required for now.

Thanks in advance.

[slowcraig]

I've just bought a used 1999 focus lx, the boot does not open using the key (in lock or remote) or using the button on the dash. I can open it manually from the boot however. Also it is missing the rubber seal on the boot (this may or may not be important).

This looks to be quite a common issue, does anyone know if i need to replace the whole lock unit or does the missing rubber seal play some part (doubtful).

If, as i suspect it is a new unit required, do i HAVE to get it configured to work with my central locking or will it be ok to just open it with a key? Money's to tight to mention so the cheapest option is what's required for now.

Thanks in advance.

urm, dont know alot about cars, however if the button on the dash isnt working, or your key fob button isnt working, you might need a new fuse, dont hold me to that though

[Nug878]

urm, dont know alot about cars, however if the button on the dash isnt working, or your key fob button isnt working, you might need a new fuse, dont hold me to that though

Good point... But the boot release is linked with the central locking. So unless Dave's central locking isn't working as well, it can't be the fuse.

I only know this because I had to change the central locking fuse this week.

[Big Dave]

So, i took it to a garage for it's MOT and they have suggested that most people only use the button on the dash or key fob, never the key. Because of this the barrel fills with dirt/dust etc over time and eventually freezes the lock. I'm gonna try a whole can of WD40 in the lock and see if that gets it moving.

[Whelk8891]

So, i took it to a garage for it's MOT and they have suggested that most people only use the button on the dash or key fob, never the key. Because of this the barrel fills with dirt/dust etc over time and eventually freezes the lock. I'm gonna try a whole can of WD40 in the lock and see if that gets it moving.

DON'T!

I'm on a personal crusade to stop people spraying their car locks full of WD40. Everybody thinks its a magical solution to any problem and I hate the !Removed! stuff. Its got its uses and it solves some problems but long term it can make things a whole lot worse. Whatever you spray it on becomes a magnet for dust and filth if you don't wipe the excess off afterwards (which you can't, in a lock). It also causes swelling in PCB joints so get it anywhere near anything electrical and you're skating on thin ice. If you've got a rusted on bolt or something or a squeaky door hinge, then WD40 is the tool for the job, but otherwise, steer clear.

I use and recommend using Servisol contact/switch cleaner instead. Its a much cleaner and safer option as its designed for electrical connections etc, removes dirt and increases conductivity, and doesn't knacker up any PCBs it gets near.

You can get it from Maplin for about £4.50 a tin.

[mjt]

the boot does not open using the key (in lock or remote) or using the button on the dash. I can open it manually from the boot however.

I'm a bit confused by the "in lock or remote" bit. Do you mean you can open it using the key in the lock but just not remotely? If so I would say it's a problem with the lock motor or wiring. One possibility is that a wire has fractured where it flexes going through the rubber grommet between body and tailgate.

[mintalkin]

the best thing to clean your locks with is carb cleaner.

[mjt]

While it's generally true that Yale-style locks should only be dry-lubricated (using graphite powder for example) I have found that if the pins are already sticking there may be no alternative to wet lubricant to get them free. In that case I have found it best to spray the lubricant onto the key before working it in and out of the lock barrel.

I've sometimes also found it necessary to do this with WD40 in winter to displace water to prevent the pins freezing.

[Big Dave]

Ahoy, apols my description of the problem appears to have caused confusion

The lock doesn't open using the following mediums:

1) Key in lock, turns but nothing, not even a noise.

2) Remote opening button on key fob, noise like a motor moving, can see the lock wiggle slightly but again, nothing.

3) Button on dash, same as key fob button, NUFFING....

I kinda wish i'd checked this forum before fillin the lock with WD40, ah well, i have literally just done so, guess i'll see what happens next, if nothing else it smell kinda nice, reminds me of my Dad's garage.

I'm starting to suspect it's actually the cable for the boot lock that's forked, this is based on my complete lack of any knowledge at all on fixing faults with car boots. Not sure why i'm telling everyone this as effectively i have achieved nothing and yet still here i am typing away... I'm off to trawl the forum for info on fixing boot lock cables :0o