Hi all

As the title suggest, my dual mass flywheel is probably on its last few thousand miles so its time to look at a new one.

Just a quick run down of my symptoms to makes things clear;

Engine judder at 1100-1200 rpm

strange vibration when engine is cold (it is still there when it warms up but not as loud)

Difficulty changing gear (99% of gear changes are fine)

sounded like a bag of spanners this morning

Anyway, so I am looking at euro car parts and I am after new dmf, clutch and slave cylinder.

The flywheel is easy enough to source because there is only one option on the site, sachs at £225 Part No.: 336590570

The problem is with the clutch and cylinder.

I want a sachs clutch, but there are two on the site with two different part numbers

one is £122 with Part No.: 641592600

the other is £128 with Part No.: 641592550

Then there is the slave cylinder, and there are LOADS of them to chose from with different part numbers. Some suggesting I should buy after market hoses!

Any clues guys?

In case you are interested, my friend is fitting it all for £150

is this for the 1.8 tdci? are you sure its not the fuel injectors? i also have the judder between 1000-1200 after my clutch change and im pretty sure one of the injectors are gone

this is what i ordered. complete kit. make they send you either an sachs/LUK/FTE slave cylinder. by accident they sent me a wrong one but delivered out the correct one immediately

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-MK2-CMAX-1-8-TDCi-115-BHP-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-CLUTCH-KIT-CSC-SACHS-/151016864348?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23294e7a5c

Well Ford said it 'might' be the DMF when they had it in for a couple of days. They thought it was the mounts to begin with but nope.

I have been running millers fuel treatment for months and it hasn't improved this noise. It has however made the engine sound less like a dump truck.

try this.

before you start the car, press the clutch a few times in (in neutral). then start the car. do you hear any rattles? if the DMF is on its way out, this would make more noise as its unbalanced by pressing the clutch while the car is off

also you can try, while the car is idle, in neutral press the clutch in and quickly release it (like you would do for some wheelspin), does the rattle occur?

try this.

before you start the car, press the clutch a few times in (in neutral). then start the car. do you hear any rattles? if the DMF is on its way out, this would make more noise as its unbalanced by pressing the clutch while the car is off

also you can try, while the car is idle, in neutral press the clutch in and quickly release it (like you would do for some wheelspin), does the rattle occur?

Just tryed this and didn't notice very much, however i was revving the engine up and down and made these observations;

with the clutch engaged with flywheel; revving the engine to 1500- let go of gas, engine drop back to idle. when the needle drops and goes through the 1100-1200 range there is a grinding/rattle from the car.

With the clutch and flywheel apart, the car doesn't make any grinding/rattles while the needle drop backs down (still judders)

Coming back to topic, has anyone sourced these parts on their own before?

Engine code would also be helpful.

Chris when you throw in your reg and it comes up with these 2 parts listed. Have you checked to see what the difference between them is?

yes but other than the pictures the limited info they give are both the same, nom of teeth the same and diameter.

for a 2006 car mate your after part no - 641592600

thats for cars upto 2008, the other part is for cars after 2008

Thank you :)

can i use a sach flywheel and a luk clutch by any chance? part no is the same but luk is a kit with the cylinder and works out cheaper

Thank you :)

can i use a sach flywheel and a luk clutch by any chance? part no is the same but luk is a kit with the cylinder and works out cheaper

Yes no problem.