Chris Serpell Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Hi all, 2004 C-Max diesel. Couldn't get anything to work this morning. Approaching the car, the remote lock didn't work. Opening it manually was possible. When the key first went in, the LED screen said -60 degrees, and the red LED in the middle was flashing, but the engine wouldn't start. Thought I heard a clicking sound from the direction of the gear box. Tried the key again, then time some more flashing, and trembling of some dials, but nothing else. Now I get absolutely nothing. I thought about the immobiliser (the locks and keys were replaced recently since someone stole the originals), but from what I've read I think that even then the car should be a bit more 'alive' Any ideas? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Serpell Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 A bit more info: - A new battery was put in about 4 months ago - I didn't get a chance to note the pattern of flashing from the red LED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoney871 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Dead battery for sure. Was it a silver calcium one you had fitted? Any other type won't work with the smart charge system and will go toes up very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Serpell Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Not sure about the type. Is there an easy way to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoney871 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 It should say so on the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Serpell Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Hmm, it doesn't give much info. It's a Tungstone Titanium part no 100. From looking around the web it's hard to get specifics on that model, but the range has definitely got calcium in there, but probably lead antimony rather than silver. Assuming it's the wrong type, do you know if this will be a matter of it having gone dead gradually while not in use (last driven 5 days ago, but opened and closed much more frequently), and so we should be able to jump start it, drive around a bit, and get it changed at our leisure, or will it have just conked completely? Thanks for the help, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 It's probably poorly maintained not through your fault but smart charge and non silver calcium do not get on well... Charge the battery or get a jump start if necessary and get yourself to a euro car parts and pick up a Bosch s4 or s5 battery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theredfox Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 is it really important to get the right spec of battery for fords? paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 definatey. The Ford Smart Charge system charges a battery at 14v. standard lead / acid batteries can only handle 12v maximum and smart charge just kills the electrodes, the acid and fries the battery in essence. You need to get Silver Calcium (such as a Bosch S4 / S5 - I had the S4 I believe in my CMAX without real issue!). These are designed to handle up to 18v I think, which means the smart charge system works flawlessly with it, and so the battery charges much more quickly, retains the charge better and doesnt do what yours has done! If the issue persists, then you have a parasitic draw, I had one, which seemed to be on the ignition barrel, but I didnt get round to fixing it before I sold the car on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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