Hello all

Are there any mechanics out there with the proper tool to do the vct on my focus the ford main dealers are asking ridiculous money. I've had it properly diagnosed and it's the variable valve timing that's out.

The person who owned the car before me had the timing done 2 months before I bought it and I believe the garage didn't have the proper tool to do it and when they put it back together the eml was on but instead of fixing the issue they just took the bulb out and gave the car back

So are there any mechanics that can help me?

I'm in Essex

Any help greatly appreciated

Dan

When did your buy it? take it back and demand they put it right, the fault was present when they sold it so not fit for purpose

I bought it from a private seller 3 weeks ago who says he has no idea of the faults

I had no idea when I bought it but something didn't feel right the more I drove it so dug deeper and this is what I've found

it may not be down to the timing it may have a vct fault it should be taken back to who did the timing and have them fix it if thats the case sounds like the seller has said that as an excuse it can be a solenoid it could ba a vct cam fault which is about £600 to get fixed so you need it properly diagnosed if it was a garage at fault take it back and tell them they can pay for ford to put it right

That's easier said than done I can't get an answer out of the bloke who sold it

And it has been properly diagnosed

If theres no paperwork then ide assume he may have done it himself.sorry to say it but ide take it to a garage and have it done with the timing already out the tool wont help as it locks the cam in position the correct original position which it now isnt

How much should I be looking to pay for this to be done

Ok, if the bulb has been removed from the EML, have you had it scanned for fault codes? This will pinpoint any areas to look at.

It could be the VVT Solenoid (its a round thing that sticks up out of the rocker cover next to timing belt with an electrical plug on it).

Remove the plug & check connections, if you're handy chucking spanners around then remove it & give it a good clean out with carb cleaner or some petrol.

Had ST's with this problem before and some were simply corroded connections on the solenoid.

If that doesnt work, replace the Solenoid with a known 2nd hand working one, or a new one if you wish, just thinking of costs.

Start with the easiest and cheapest fix first, all the better if you can do it or have a go yourself.

Also check the IMRC (Inlet Manifold Runner Control) Solenoid, sometimes these stick open or a little spring clip inside the box suffers from the connections oxidizing and can be fixed with a good clean.

Thanks for your reply mate very helpful i think il try this tomorrow

And yes it has been scanned and the code is P0017 but I have changed the crankshaft sensor and the code is still there

Did you clear the code? it wont go on its own even if you fix the sensor

If you did clear it and its still there then suspect the wiring going to the Crankshaft sensor, Especially anywhere that flexes when the engine moves on its mounts (also change you mounts, the one at the back is terribly weak)

Yes I did clear the code

Is this in the pic the solenoid that I should be cleaning?

thats the vct solenoid

Yes that's the one mate.

Ok quick update I've cleaned the solenoids and all the electrical connections and it's still the same

I was even told to do an oil change and put thicker oil in as it helps work the solenoids but still hasn't worked I'm at my whits end with this car

if its a vct fault none of that will work you need to take it to ford and have it fixed cost could be anywhere between £150-£600 sadly this is why i dont buy cars privately as its a mine field you may need a new vct cam which will mean the cam and timing belt etc have to be replaced the solenoids are not the issue that much is obvious as if they are faulty the car will clatter like mad on idle thicker oil will damage the solenoids thats why the oil is specific dont know whos giving you the info but they dont have a clue either .thicker oil will stop the variator in the cam from advancing or retarding causing more damage

I was told this by a ford technician who works for Rates ford dealers

I've given up now I can't afford to spend that much money on the car I already spent my savings buying it

well he doesnt know hat hes talking about mate the vct relies on the oil being of a certain rating 5w30 oil the idea being that the oil is fed by pressure through the cam phaser which advances or retards teh timing thicker oil is harder to push through especially when cold so the phaser will not fill properly as its all about timing this is also harder to force through the solenoid as you saw the holes not that big thick gloopy oil will cause even more issues.

the erly vct system suffers from a few issues if its the cam phaser thats not timed correctly as in its faulty and not working as it should then the cam phaser needs to be replaced this involves removing the belt etc so any garage will insist on a new timing belt i suspect the previous owner knew this when he sold the car it would require a timing check to see if the cam timing is as it should be if it is its the phaser thats faulty if the cam timing is out from the previous belt change then it would require retiming by a garage thats well recommended.even without the cam locking tool there are marks to time the car up with so really given the previous owner has lied so far he may be lying about a lot more is there any proof the belt was even touched? he may have had the issue diagnosed covered the mil light then sold it.

youre issue is you cant sell it or will have trouble selling it in its current state i had this with my ti vct its driveable but dont try to overtake anything as the car will not have the power to do it

Yes I do notice the power but it's intermittent sometimes the power is there then it goes again

it gets worse as you floor it tried overtaking when i bought my car mid overtake the mil came on drastic loss in power not good when an hgv is hurtling at you

Car is now booked in with fords next Wednesday

This car has turned out to be a very expensive buy

Not happy with this

Ouch

Blimey, that looks a sore one, but A whole new instrument cluster to fix a missing MIL light?! seems a tad excessive, I don't know what kinda light it is but even if it was an SMD a couple of hours with an soldering iron should do it.

how well do you know that garage, much of that might be things to keep an eye on rather then, sort this now.

Discs and pads can be done yourself for a fraction of that price and you must be the only focus in the UK to get even tyre wear on the rears, unless you have one of these http://www.thespeedline.us/servlet/the-389/04-pls--Ford-Focus-Rear/Detail

speaking of which, time to get me a set

guess im saying it might be worth getting a second opinion before you take out a second mortgage