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My Focus Mk3 Champions Edition


JW1982
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A few weeks ago my parents called from their holiday adress in Germany. The engine warning light and Start/Stop light on the button of their 1.6 ECOboost 2012 Focus MK3 were activated. However the car still ran perfectly without any loss of power or warning messages. unfortunately it is very difficult to diagnose the problem properly from a distance. As a start I explained my parents the procedure to enter the test menu of the instrument cluster and advised them to disconnect the battery for a while.

Disconnecting the battery did not solve the problem and the instrument cluster test menu did not show any important DTC codes so they decided to continue driving and have me take a look at it. Last week I performed a diagnostic session using my VCM2 interface with a recent version of the Ford IDS software. the IDS software showed the following DTC code:

 P2542 - Low Pressure Fuel System Sensor Circuit High

After deleting the DTC code it came back immediately. However the warning lights stayed off for about 1 day before they were acivated again.


Last friday I finally had time to take a proper look at it. It only took a minute before I found the cause of this problem:

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The connector of the low pressure fuel pump:

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Was no longer connected to the wiring harness.

Because about 1 cm of one of the wires was missing and the other 2 wires clearly showed some bite marks this indicates that the damage is caused by an animal (most likely a Beech Marten).

After I discovered the cause of the problem it was time for repair of the damage:

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I soldered the wires back together and use shrink tubing to insulate the connections. Afterwards I re-installed the original protective sleeving and applied a few extra layers of the original cloth insulation tape.

Unfortunately I forgot to bring my diagnostic equipment so i was not able to delete the DTC code. As an alternative I used the test menu of the instrument cluster. After repair the test menu did show "NO DTC". However the warning lights were still active. I decided to start/stop the engine a few times. The warning lights went off after I started the engine for the 5th time. The system is designed in a way that non critical DTC codes are erased automatically if the problem is no longer present for 5 starts.

Further investigation of the wiring and hoses/pipes did fortunately not show any more damage.

 

 

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Excellent post JW. I'm sure that'll help a number of owners.

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When ordering parts for the next service I decided to order a complete new Focus RS air filter housing also. 

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The threads of the screws of my exisiting air filter housing are completely gone thanks to a Ford mechanic who serviced the car before I bought it. For some reason they always manage to overtighten these screws.

Combined with the K&N E-9289 air filter I already have the Focus RS air filter housing will be a nice upgrade.

If I get bored with the induction sound (which I doubt) there is always the possibility to install a insert to colose the RS air filter housing:

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Velossa Tech has a nice insert for the RS air filter housing. However the Velossa Tech insert costs 79 USD which is about the same price that I paid for the complete brand new RS air filter housing.

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  • 1 month later...

3 Weeks ago when I installed the RS air filter housing I discovered the coolant level being low. The coolant level was just below the MIN mark while it was still at the MAX mark the week before.  I lost about half a liter of coolant in only 1 week/less than 100 KM.

After a quick search I found the cause of the leak. The water pump showed pink signs of coolant that were caused by a defective water pump seal. In my opinion way too soon. A water pump should last a lot longer than only 4 Years and less than 30.000 KM (18500 Miles). 

The original water pump is produced by Pierburg. Because of the disappointing longevity of the original water pump I did not want to install the same pump again. After some searching I decided to install an SKF pump instead. When the SKF water pump arrived 2 days later I decided to install it immediately.

The water pump of the 1.0 ECOboost can be accessed quite easily. First I lifted the front of the car (really needed on a lowered Focus MK3 with lower 18 inch tyres). Next I removed the engine undertray and drained the coolant by opening the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator.

After the coolant was fully drained I removed the engine cover and several Turbo hoses on top of the engine. Next I released the water pump pulley bolts and removed the serpentine belt. After I removed the water pump pulley bolts I removed the water pump pulley. Next I removed the water pump bolts. The water pump is secured with 5 short M6 bolts and 2 longer M6 bolts. After all bolts were removed I removed the water pump from the engine block. The water pump has a coated metal gasket which forms a seal between the water pump and the engine block. 

After I cleaned all mating faces I attached a new gasket to the new water pump. The gasket has several tabs to clamp the gasket onto the water pump housing. This prevents the gasket from falling or dislocating during assembly. Next I installed the new water pump onto the engine block and inserted the mounting bolts. After this I tightened all bolts at the prescribed torque/angle. 

Next I closed the coolant drain valve and vacuum tested the cooling system at the prescribed vacuum. To do this I use a vacuum pump (old fridge compressor) and an adapter I made myself.

eWCmSfJ.jpg

During testing the adapter is installed onto the coolant reservoir (it basically replaces the coolant reservoir cap). The adapter has an O-ring for a perfect seal. 

I applied vacuum to the cooling system and closed the valve on the adapter when the prescribed vacuum was achieved. After about 30 minutes the cooling system did still have exactly the same vacuum which idicated that the system was completely airtight. 

Next I put the hose at the side of my adapter inside a container of fresh coolant and slowly opened the valve. The vacuum inside the cooling system simply sucks the fresh coolant into the cooling system without causing any airpockets inside the cooling system. This way it is not needed to purge the system afterwards.

After I removed the adapter I topped up the coolant and installed a new coolant reservoir cap. The O-rings of the coolant reservoir cap are known to swell which caused the cap to become stuck after some time. The coolant reservoir cap is pretty inexpensive so I decided to replace it anyway. Next I installed the water pump pully, serpentine belt and all Turbo hoses.

 

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No doubts about the condition of the old water pump.

 

I took advantage of the situation by changing the engine oil and oil filter at the same time. When I drained the coolant I also drained the engine oil. I changed the oil filter for a new original one and installed a new sump plug. I used an original Landrover sump plug which is 100% identical to the original Ford sump plug. It even has the same part number. However the Landrover sump plug was almost 70% cheaper than the Ford one.

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think my waterpump needs changing , noticed it seeping in april , been meaning to change it but coolant level hasnt dropped hardly at all since then.

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  • 1 month later...

Please Help!
In "Programmable Parameters" menu list there are no "Car Configuration Parameters". In engineering mode (code 60274) in the list there are no Ford Explorer U502. If I put in my VIN - error window "VIN out of range. The range is to ."
How can I pick my Explorer (U502)?

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You should start using a more recent Ford IDS version.

Also note that "car configuration parameters" are for CCC (Central Car Configuration) based vehicles. Most USA Ford models are still fully AS-BUILT configured and do not have a CCC.

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Recently my 5 Inch FCDIM (display) stopped recognising the SD-card once in a while and the PDC / Active Park Assist sometimes froze. I was quite annoyed with it so I decided to replace the FCDIM.

After some research I discovered that the latest generations of the 5 Inch FCDIM directly support a rear view camera. There is no longer the need to install the (original or Russian aftermarket) rear view camera module. After some searching I found a latest generation 5 Inch FCDIM with part number  F1BT-18B955-DC. The display was advertised as being in mint condition and came from a 2017 Fiesta. This part number was officially never used in a Focus MK3. However comparing/cross referencing part numbers suggested that this part number should be fully backwards compatible with my old FCDIM with part number BM5T-18B955-DC. 

I took a gamble and ordered the FCDIM.

 

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Latest generation versions of the 5 Inch FCDIM can be identified by the green 4-pole Rosenberger (also called Fakra) HSD connector for the camera input. Older versions of the 5 Inch FCDIM have a white normal Fakra connector for the camera input.

After I installed the FCDIM I decided to test the rear view camera input first before ordering a suitible rear view camera. I activated the rear view camera function in the Central Car Configuration and used my camcorder as an input. As expected the rear view camera functionality works perfectly.

I ordered a suitible NTSC rear view camera and some components to build an Rosenberger HSD --> RCA adapter cable. When these arrive I can finish this project.

 

 

When I installed new FCDIM I discovered that the matt chrome trim on the steering wheel showed some minor bubbles. When I investigated the problem I immediately cut my finger on the razor sharp edge of the chrome. This is a well known problem on the Focus MK3.

I decided to remove the steering wheel airbag to search for a possible solution for this problem. The matt chrome trim has several tabs at the back which are plastic welded to the airbag cover. To be able to remove the matt chrome trim I carefully drilled the plastic weldings.

 

 jQ6IPUR.jpg

 

After I removed the matt chrome trim from the airbag cover the problem turned out to be even bigger than I expected. On the top end of the trim the matt chrome was completely loose and could easily be peeled off. 

In my opinion this is caused by a fault in the manufacturing process. The plastic part is not properly finished before it was chromed. The plastic trim has pretty sharp casting edges at the top. These are no longer visible after chroming. However the layer of chrome is a lot thinner on top of the casting edges. I suspect that during time the chrome cracks and comes loose as a result of temperature differences. 

Unfortunately the matt chrome trim is part of the airbag assembly and not available as a spare part. The only option from Ford is a brand new airbag. Some Asian (mostly Chinese) companies offer replacement airbag covers. However after I read several bad reviews it was pretty clear that this was no option for me. 

So I decided to remove the chrome from the trim. Because of the shape of the part mechanically removing the chrome is no option so I decided to remove the chrome chemically. The trim is made of a plastic alloy of PC/ABS which has a very good resistance for several chemicals. After some experiments I ended up with regular bleach. However this is pretty time consuming and the bleach needs to be changed every 24 Hours to be optimally effective.

After 4,5 days the layer of chrome and the layer of copper underneath were completely gone. However the trim was still covered with a black coating which I suspect was used to properly bond the copper to the plastic. This coating could not be removed with bleach. After some experiments hydrochloric acid turned out to do the job perfectly.

 

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The result was a perfectly clean trim that was ready for further processing. The black coating arround the tabs at the back of the trim was applied at the factory to prevent the chrome from bonding on the tabs. None of the cehmicals I used did affect this coating. 

After considering several options I decided to paint the trim using metallic silver spraypaint. This is actually the same color as my wheels. I applied 2 layers of primer, 2 layers of metallic silver and several layers of laquer.

 

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The result turned out really nice. The paint has a nice deep shine and looks absolutely stunning.

 

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I installed the trim onto the airbag cover by inserting all tabs of the trim into the corresponding holes of the airbag cover. Afterwards I used hotglue to fixate the tabs.

 

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I am very pleased with the result. The trim looks stunning and the materials to achieve this result only costed me less than €20,-.

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On 11/02/2018 at 9:55 AM, JW1982 said:

You should start using a more recent Ford IDS version.

Also note that "car configuration parameters" are for CCC (Central Car Configuration) based vehicles. Most USA Ford models are still fully AS-BUILT configured and do not have a CCC.

Thanks for the short and right answer. I tried versions of IDS from 91 to 106. A result was the same - after 60274 code in the list of models there were no USA models.

One more question: could IDS load *.VBF file(s) to ACM module?

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IDS automatically selects the correct update file if an update is available. it is not possible to select a VBF file manually. 

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13 hours ago, JW1982 said:

IDS automatically selects the correct update file if an update is available. it is not possible to select a VBF file manually. 

Thanks again for an answer. Yes, IDS with VXDIAG VCX NANO found for all my modules (PCM and other) witch were need to be updated. An update was succeeded. It is very sorry, because I have an IDS, I have a vehicle communication interface, and I can not manually load VBF file.

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Tell me please how could I flash the calibration with IDS to my ACM module having a VIN number from another car (younger for 2 years)?

Or how to convince the IDS that on the vehicle communication interface is connected not mine but another car?

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  • 1 month later...
IDS automatically selects the correct update file if an update is available. it is not possible to select a VBF file manually. 
@JW1982
Hi mate you have pm.
Thanks
Yunii

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Despite the fact that my car has done less than 30.000 KM I decided to replace the front brakes. The original brakes function adequately but in my opinion lack a bit of bite/power at higher speeds. Next to this the original brakes produce an extreme amount of braking dust.

I used to have Brembo brake discs combined with Textar brake pads on my previous Focus MK2. I really liked this setup. A lot more bite/power and a lot less (and easy to remove) braking dust.

Last week I bought a set of Brembo replacement brake discs and a set of ceramic Textar Epad brake pads. These brake pads promise to produce about 80% less braking dust than conventional brake pads.  If they are half as good as they claim they are I will be satisfied. 


The biggest improvement is however the size of the brakes. I decided to change the original 278 mm brake setup to the 300 mm brake setup that is used on the more powerful engine types. I bought a complete set of 2016 Kuga 300 mm front brake calipers and caliper brackets. I am going to sandblast and paint all of these part and give the brake calipers a full rebuild (new pistons, seals, rubbers and springs). 

When finished the front brakes will be completely new. The rear brakes (discs and pads) are most likely going to be changed next Year.

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Despite the fact that my car has done less than 30.000 KM I decided to replace the front brakes. The original brakes function adequately but in my opinion lack a bit of bite/power at higher speeds. Next to this the original brakes produce an extreme amount of braking dust.
I used to have Brembo brake discs combined with Textar brake pads on my previous Focus MK2. I really liked this setup. A lot more bite/power and a lot less (and easy to remove) braking dust.
Last week I bought a set of Brembo replacement brake discs and a set of ceramic Textar Epad brake pads. These brake pads promise to produce about 80% less braking dust than conventional brake pads.  If they are half as good as they claim they are I will be satisfied. 

The biggest improvement is however the size of the brakes. I decided to change the original 278 mm brake setup to the 300 mm brake setup that is used on the more powerful engine types. I bought a complete set of 2016 Kuga 300 mm front brake calipers and caliper brackets. I am going to sandblast and paint all of these part and give the brake calipers a full rebuild (new pistons, seals, rubbers and springs). 
When finished the front brakes will be completely new. The rear brakes (discs and pads) are most likely going to be changed next Year.
@jw1982
In order to update my front discs from 278mm to 300mm do i just need carrier or complete caliper ?
As you are aware rear will become from drums to 280mm discs.
Obviously discs & pads as well.
Yunii


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The brake calipers are the same for both the 278 and 300 mm front disc brakes. Basically only the brackets (carriers) and discs are different between 278 mm and 300 mm front disc brakes.

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The brake calipers are the same for both the 278 and 300 mm front disc brakes. Basically only the brackets (carriers) and discs are different between 278 mm and 300 mm front disc brakes.
What about the rear calipers ? Are thwy same apart from carrier brackets ?
Yunii

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Anybody knows how to find second calibration file for ACM?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy HB5T-14D099-CA, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-TA. What is second calibration file?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy HB5T-14D099-CA, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-TB. What is second calibration file?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy GB5T-14D099-CE, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-CE. What is second calibration file?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy GB5T-14D099-JA, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-TA. What is second calibration file?

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On 20/04/2018 at 7:00 AM, explorer2013 said:

Anybody knows how to find second calibration file for ACM?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy HB5T-14D099-CA, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-TA. What is second calibration file?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy HB5T-14D099-CA, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-TB. What is second calibration file?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy GB5T-14D099-CE, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-CE. What is second calibration file?
SBL file DL3T-14D101-AA, strategy GB5T-14D099-JA, first calibration file is GB5T-14D100-TA. What is second calibration file?

Solved!

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2 weeks ago I received the 2016 Kuga Brake calipers and caliper brackets I bought from the UK. The calipers were extremely dirty but after a good clean they turned out to be in mint condition with only a little bit of surface rust. The caliper brackets were pretty rusty which is quite normal for unprotected casted iron parts.

I mediablasted the caliper brackets (with a fine grit glass bead media). After the mediablasting the caliper brackets were also in mint (like new) condition.  Next I took the brake calipers completely apart to determine the technical status of the calipers. The pistons also turned out to be in mint condition with no visible wear or rust marks. 

 

Last week I performed the 300 mm brake upgrade on my car. I installed the 300 mm coated Brembo brake discs and ceramic Textar Epad brake pads and changed the original 278 caliper brackets for the 300 mm Kuga ones.

ssEwKxN.jpg

As expected the Kuga brackets are a direct fit to my Focus MK3. For now I decided to keep the existing brake calipers. The Kuga brake calipers (which are basically identical to the Focus MK3 brake calipers) will be rebuilded within the next few Months. These are also going to be mediablasted and coated with a red industrial high temperature paint. After painting the pistons will be polished and installed with new seals and rubbers.

The fully rebuilded calipers will be installed at the end of this year during the brake fluid change.

 

Compared to the original 278 mm brakes the 300 mm brake upgrade with the Brembo discs and Textar Pads is a major improvement. The brakes are a lot more powerful than before.   


 

 

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On ‎22‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 6:39 PM, JW1982 said:

2 weeks ago I received the 2016 Kuga Brake calipers and caliper brackets I bought from the UK. The calipers were extremely dirty but after a good clean they turned out to be in mint condition with only a little bit of surface rust. The caliper brackets were pretty rusty which is quite normal for unprotected casted iron parts.

I mediablasted the caliper brackets (with a fine grit glass bead media). After the mediablasting the caliper brackets were also in mint (like new) condition.  Next I took the brake calipers completely apart to determine the technical status of the calipers. The pistons also turned out to be in mint condition with no visible wear or rust marks. 

 

Last week I performed the 300 mm brake upgrade on my car. I installed the 300 mm coated Brembo brake discs and ceramic Textar Epad brake pads and changed the original 278 caliper brackets for the 300 mm Kuga ones.

ssEwKxN.jpg

As expected the Kuga brackets are a direct fit to my Focus MK3. For now I decided to keep the existing brake calipers. The Kuga brake calipers (which are basically identical to the Focus MK3 brake calipers) will be rebuilded within the next few Months. These are also going to be mediablasted and coated with a red industrial high temperature paint. After painting the pistons will be polished and installed with new seals and rubbers.

The fully rebuilded calipers will be installed at the end of this year during the brake fluid change.

 

Compared to the original 278 mm brakes the 300 mm brake upgrade with the Brembo discs and Textar Pads is a major improvement. The brakes are a lot more powerful than before.   


 

 

loving the brake upgrade and bet it stops better now

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  • 3 weeks later...

The 300 mm Brembo brake discs combined with the ceramic Textar Epad brake pads are really great. The brake force is much better than the original 278 mm brakes. Next to this the ceramic Textar Epad brake pads do really produce a lot less brake dust than the original brake pads. 

After approximately 1000 KM my front wheels are still perfectly clean while the rear wheels (with the original rear brakes) are very dirty already.

The rear brake pads will probably also be replaced soon. Unfortunately Textar does not produce the ceramic Epad brake pads for the rear of a Focus MK3/MK3.5. I am currently searching for ceramic rear brake pads from a different brand as an alternative.

 

 

A few weeks ago I went to an amusement park in Germany for the weekend. Unfortunately I managed to damage 2 of my 18 Inch wheels when following the instructions of a parking attendant on a parking lot at the hotel.

 

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At first I wantend to replace the 2 damaged wheels. However replacement wheels were not directly available at the moment so I decided to repair the damaged wheels myself. I had the tyres partially removed from the rim by a local tyre specialist. 
 
I removed the burrs with 400 gritt sanding paper. Next I filled the damage with an epoxy filler that contains 60% aluminium powder. This filler has roughly the same characteristics as aluminium and is very strong. It is even possible to apply powder coating on top of this filler.
 
Next I applied a few layers of matching silver paint and a few layers of 2K clearcoat.
 
 
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DucmsyO.jpg

 

The result looks great. When the paint has fully hardened I only need to polish the wheels to remove a bit of overspray which is unavoidable when painting part of a wheel.

 

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Looks really good. Need to fix my wheels also. It's not heavily kurbed but would be good practice. What paint did you use? Did you get it colour matched? 

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Hi,

Firstly, the car looks great.

Do you by any chance have a part number for the Kuga brake caliper carriers please?

Thanks in advance 

Dan

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Thats a quality job mate.
Yunii

The 300 mm Brembo brake discs combined with the ceramic Textar Epad brake pads are really great. The brake force is much better than the original 278 mm brakes. Next to this the ceramic Textar Epad brake pads do really produce a lot less brake dust than the original brake pads. 
After approximately 1000 KM my front wheels are still perfectly clean while the rear wheels (with the original rear brakes) are very dirty already.
The rear brake pads will probably also be replaced soon. Unfortunately Textar does not produce the ceramic Epad brake pads for the rear of a Focus MK3/MK3.5. I am currently searching for ceramic rear brake pads from a different brand as an alternative.
 
 
A few weeks ago I went to an amusement park in Germany for the weekend. Unfortunately I managed to damage 2 of my 18 Inch wheels when following the instructions of a parking attendant on a parking lot at the hotel.
 
LxUE8QC.jpg&key=fd4285f21b07de731f59407ec42a0107275e23d45b9bc397603e3a1de908ee4f   F6yhhBI.jpg&key=5db6bdb23815a75c91783a60f375066b32b23dedbb19dbfcec3ed6056687b96d   R3QtVsA.jpg&key=29c6a1a36c3f0f9eef8da27da1497ea365315e9a594a50de4070611a927df778     At first I wantend to replace the 2 damaged wheels. However replacement wheels were not directly available at the moment so I decided to repair the damaged wheels myself. I had the tyres partially removed from the rim by a local tyre specialist.    I removed the burrs with 400 gritt sanding paper. Next I filled the damage with an epoxy filler that contains 60% aluminium powder. This filler has roughly the same characteristics as aluminium and is very strong. It is even possible to apply powder coating on top of this filler.   Next I applied a few layers of matching silver paint and a few layers of 2K clearcoat.     cZoKp7H.jpg&key=93f93fd6329494275c1858aeb4e384d100232d834e976878e45b96d67596d104   fLXt3Bc.jpg&key=e81c06c1869b3ecc1cb8f4dfdee20bad180db225637795e03850fab2c5ee3676   DucmsyO.jpg&key=b6719455cea6c3cdedb72fcfe10ec1529d4766d39e8d7d23544c7834de1ee08f  
The result looks great. When the paint has fully hardened I only need to polish the wheels to remove a bit of overspray which is unavoidable when painting part of a wheel.
 


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