5t3v3 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 As the subject states, ive got the bluefin remap and the auto specialists stage 2 induction kit ordered today So hopefully they will arrive towards the start of the week. Cant wait for all the extra torques and horsepowers!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E5GDM Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 What power are you expecting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 They are claiming 38bhp and 90nm of torque but we will wait and see. Th AS stage 2 claims between 5 - 10bhp but it's more for the noise that I want that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E5GDM Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Is that on top of the standard 180? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 It is on top of that, not sure how it works with the over boost though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarksST Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Their claim will be 218bhp, they said 38bhp gain to make it look better, it's really a 21bhp gain as they've completely ignored the overboost for the standard car. Also is that a gain at peak power or at the point on the graph where there is the biggest gap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 I would assume the point at the biggest gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarksST Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Well that's the worst way of selling a power upgrade possible, it needs to compare standard peak to modified peak not at a pont in the rev range to make the gain look the most impressive 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Who would you have recommended to do a remap for me then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarksST Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 If your happy with bluefin that's ok, there are many tuners available it just to me the way the gains they are claiming are measured is wrong. Collins for example claimed a48bhp increase but the peak gain was 22bhp, quoting the higher figure grabs people's attention and will sway most people to that ( more bang per buck), people then get disappointed at rolling road days when standard cars are less modified cars get similar power. Have you gone for this map due to that 38bhp gain? Or for cost, or ease of use/dealer nearby? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Every remap company are doing the same though, not taking into account for over boost, even montune The main reason I went with the bluefin is that I managed to get one 2nd had for my last car at a really good price so it was just the cost of the re program compared to a full price remap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlynnZS Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I've got the bluefin and AS "stage 2" induction kit and love both of them. The turbo noises you get with the induction kit, for me, is just pure car p0rnification, for others may be chavvy. The bluefin I had done not long after getting the car, so didn't have much time to compare, but the car feels really quick. I had it transferred from my previous car for free, so any power increase is a bonus. I'll be interested to see what you think. IIRC, superchips claim 228bhp peak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlynnZS Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 As for peak gain vs biggest gap, peak gain will be around 6000rpm, which won't get used as much when driving as a large increase further down the rev range. On their dyno standard: 206bhp, remap:228bhp @6600rpm with an increase of 38bhp at 6200rpm as the standard car drops off a bit sooner. What you will really feel is the 30nm peak torque increase and 70nm increase at the biggest gap, at 2100rpm. Peak numbers are good to compare against standard and other cars, but for normal driving you will notice much more a large increase in mid range torque. I bet your car doesn't see 6000rpm much Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarksST Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I bet your car doesn't see 6000rpm much Mark. Meaning? There's not much point holding it to or at 6k as the power is already dropping off and as you say the torque is lower down. My points are mainly to do with the way some tuners advertise the gains, when on a dyno the standard car will should reach 200 they would have to hold it on the dyno for some time for it to drop to 180, so claiming its a 38 gain from 180 is wrong it'll be 18. Claiming the 38 is the max gain is also misleading, showing it on a graph is ok as you can compare what the maps do where. You should try and get a before and after dyno run to see the gains. Most of the stage 1 maps are similar in power/torque, where they differ is where the power comes in along the Rev range and the reduction of the torque limiting in 1st and 2nd gear. Which is why people say revo, peron, Finsport etc are quicker than Mountune who have to retain these limits for warranty approval. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlynnZS Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 This is the before and after power curve for bluefin on an ST. http://www.mybluefin.co.uk/curves/FiestaSTEcoBoostStage1.pdf You're right, they shouldn't advertise the biggest gap between curves as the headline figure, as this will mislead a lot of people into thinking that it is the increase in peak power. It is still a relevant figure though as it goes some way towards describing how the car will feel compared to stock. With the St, the biggest gap actually comes from the fact that the standard car starts to drop power after 5500rpm, whereas the bluefin'd car carries on increasing in power until the rev limit, and although i don't remember how my car felt standard, now it really does race towards the redline continuing to build power as the curve suggests. However the torque curve shows the biggest difference in how the car will feel to drive, it really does surge forward and is not quite as linear as standard, which I like. But to clarify, Superchips claim 228bhp on their dyno, an increase of 22bhp peak from the standard car which was measured at 206bhp on their dyno. For confusion purposes it is best to forget the +38bhp, and the 180/200bhp claimed from factory and only compare the standard car on a dyno, and the remapped car on the same dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Hoe easy is it to remove the factory air box? I've not even started looking into getting it out yet in preparation of the new induction kit lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarksST Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Easy, torx screw at front of airbox that attaches it to front panel, prise off the front air feed hose, undo the hose clamp on the intake hose, release the wiring plug for the MAF sensor and pull the box out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarksST Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Steps 1b - 4b http://www.mountune.com/downloads/B6_Billet%20Quick-shift_rev1.1.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Hmmm that seems nice and easy. Thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlynnZS Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Quick tip, have a look at which way the maf sensor is pointing when you take it out, and put it back in the same way (although the sensor will only fit into the new housing one way, the actual housing will connect to air filter and existing pipe either way). If the sensor is not in exactly the same position as stock, the car will not start and you will think you have broke it, as I unfortunately found out. In which case just flip the housing round and you will be good to go. Also be careful with the torx screws that hold the sensor in place as I managed to strip them as they wouldn't screw all the way in properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Lol thanks for the heads up, no doubt I would put it on the wrong way around. Hopefully it shows up tomorrow, the bluefin has had to he put off to the end of the week as it's had to be sent down to them to be reprogrammed :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Has anyone ever used SiCo Developments before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky2013 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Has anyone ever used SiCo Developments before? I've read both good and bad reviews about him. I haven't used him before so cant comment on personal experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t3v3 Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 GlynnZSAre you sure the MAF sensor only fits in the housing one way? I fitted mine when it arrived today but was in a bit of a rush so couldnt take the time to have a proper look at it, But the screw holes on the sensor didnt line up with the new housing. Wasnt sure if i maybe had it on the wrong way or if its maybe the wrong kit?? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlynnZS Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 The sensor only goes into the housing one way yes, it's the housing you need to make sure is the right way round once the sensor is in it, but to look at the housing there is no way to see which way is right. When you take the sensor out look which way the silver side is facing, think it's the front of the car, then put it in the new housing whichever way fits, then put the housing into the car so that the silver side of the sensor is facing whichever way it faced when you took it out. Hope that makes sense. If it doesn't start just swap it round, shouldn't do any harm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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