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Guide: Fitting Reverse Camera Mk2.5 Focus 2008 - 2011


Lenny
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Anybody know how I would be able to view these images? I tried the Chrome Extensions for Photobucket for a work around and none work for me.  

Would love to see the pics, make it a lot easier. 

Thank you. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

On 4/7/2018 at 11:49 PM, J4ny said:

Anybody know how I would be able to view these images? I tried the Chrome Extensions for Photobucket for a work around and none work for me.  

Would love to see the pics, make it a lot easier. 

Thank you. 

I'm working on transferring the images on to the forum this morning, I'll donate as much time as I can today with the goal of completing tomorrow morning I've gotta go through 6,000 archive images of the focus to match up the guide, takes alot of quiet time and thought to process.

I've been quite busy at work and at home in recent times, haven't had much spare time hopefully the guide is still some use to you and others. 

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  • 1 year later...
On 2/12/2017 at 9:39 PM, Lenny said:

The end that is behind the headunit; connects to the reverse sensor cable which should be in the wiring of the headunit itself.

this then automatically switches the headunit screen to displaying the camera when reverse is active👍

 

ah !

 

i wondered about this, just received my head unit and Reversing camera (boot release) and the RCA cable has an extra wire coming out of both ends !

 

thanks Lenny 🙂

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7 hours ago, shiwarrior said:

ah !

i wondered about this, just received my head unit and Reversing camera (boot release) and the RCA cable has an extra wire coming out of both ends !

thanks Lenny 🙂

Cheers mate, 

Good to see I'm still keeping it real with my historical posts 😅👍

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On 7/7/2019 at 6:45 PM, Lenny said:

Cheers mate, 

Good to see I'm still keeping it real with my historical posts 😅👍

 

your welcome matey 🙂

 

Actually, im a little baffled still (but getting closer now thanks to your Guides)

 

Q,

The RCA cable that goes from my Android unit to the camera has 1 extra wire, im not quite sure where this goes (both ends) 

I believe this is to automatically switch the screen onto the revering screen without pressing any buttons

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5 hours ago, shiwarrior said:

 

your welcome matey 🙂

 

Actually, im a little baffled still (but getting closer now thanks to your Guides)

 

Q,

The RCA cable that goes from my Android unit to the camera has 1 extra wire, im not quite sure where this goes (both ends) 

I believe this is to automatically switch the screen onto the revering screen without pressing any buttons

Yes that wire goes to the reverse light positive 

And switches the screen to the camera when reverse is active 

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Ok so I have 2 positive wires going to the reverse light, so what do I do with the other red wire out from the yellow RCA jack at the android unit end? I assume it connects to the unit somehow ?

 

Thanks again 

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2 hours ago, shiwarrior said:

Ok so I have 2 positive wires going to the reverse light, so what do I do with the other red wire out from the yellow RCA jack at the android unit end? I assume it connects to the unit somehow ?

 

Thanks again 

If I understand correctly;

On the headunit there will be a reverse light feed which switches the screen automatically; the one on the camera connects to this feed from the headunit to extend it all the way to the reverse light Positive.

The other sensor feed your likely to have from the headunit is possibly a handbrake feed? 

This Is a very general sort of overall recommendation. The manual would have more tailored information to the particular setup,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Lenny

 

Im not sure i quite understand

anyway, here is a pic of the wires in question

 

so out of the camera i have a yellow and Red RCA jacks (this is self explanatory)

 

but heres where i get confuised

 

the power lead goes into the red rca jack on the camera, other end of it has a black and red wire, black goes to ground, red goes to the positive side of the revering light ?

 

then i plug in the Yellow RCA jack to the camera, the single red wire at the camera end, I assume this also goes to the positive of the reversing light ?

 

then i get to the Car audio unit side, the yellow rca plugs into which every one relates to rear reversing camera, but where does the red single wire then go ? back of the unit somewhere or 12v ?

 

 

 

 

IMG_20190717_164214.jpg

IMG_20190717_164229.jpg

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You dont need to use the Red power lead on the RCA cable if you have a canbus adaptor (with reverse gear wire) to your stereo.

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1 hour ago, HighHo said:

You dont need to use the Red power lead on the RCA cable if you have a canbus adaptor (with reverse gear wire) to your stereo.

 

i think your right, when i stick my car in reverse, the screen changes to another (i assume for the reversing camera)

so i wont install the red wires and see how it goes 🙂

 

thanks

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 1/2/2015 at 7:32 AM, Lenny said:

Guide: Fitting Reverse Camera Mk2.5 Focus 2008 - 2011

ford-focus-2-640x640_zpstoclah7_edit_1415830304447_zpsvxojuoee.jpg.2bd7509fbfbf8e0602c5b31dd8cb490a.jpg

IMG_20150105_101740_zpsbxlgofmr.thumb.jpg.6ea701974887f317f31e103453cb2d5d.jpg

Hi all,

Not really much to do in this guide mainly because the chosen reverse camera kit is so good,

Has taken a lot of work out of installing.

So here's the Shopping list short and sweet:

Reverse camera:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171231720467

If you're living in Ireland and wish to Purchase this item; sign up to parcel motel and receive it for 3.75 shipping.

See link: http://www.parcelmotel.com/

Here's what's in the box:

IMG_20141122_083043_zpsbabocyss.thumb.jpg.4af76c596b8bd485c81a54bde1c03376.jpg

IMG_20141122_083054_zps3r6sw0xp.thumb.jpg.88297cec184f4eccbb8a4067b4947aed.jpg

IMG_20141122_083110_zpsvof4wuwd.thumb.jpg.9f4a422387a3a144feb78ad2c8791c11.jpg

Very nicely packaged and presented the kit is top quality and i really cant praise it enough 🙂

It replaces the existing boot handle while incorporating the reverse camera in to the handle,

This guarantees the camera is most definitely centre aligned on the rear of the vehicle aswell as quite discreet.

Pre-crimped terminals ready for splicing in to the existing boot handle cables:

IMG_20141122_083102_zpsht2cbxcg.thumb.jpg.b978ad5cec04e68e557f1860d5970835.jpg

And here's where it becomes worth the money 🙂

The loom is separated in two halves by this bespoke connection:

IMG_20141122_121241_zps6uugq4cd.thumb.jpg.10ed73125d756dba5265c627071a15e2.jpg

This makes things so much easier to install,

Because you're not trying to fish a bulky yellow RCA plug through the rubber goose neck between boot door and main chassis 🙂

Its a minute sized plug instead.

So on the end of the loom is your RCA plug for the camera signal:

This plugs in to the rear of your compatable headunit

And the blue cable:

This is a signal feed, it carries positive power from the reverse bulb to the headunit causing the headunit to automatically display the reverse signal each time you put the car in to reverse:

IMG_20141122_121624_zpsc8bhfwjx.thumb.jpg.ea8ef4acdbc304e1a9b9675c46489c7d.jpg

Open Boot Door,

Remove parcel shelf and store in safe place.

IMG_20150331_103547_zpsnm86nrxk.thumb.jpg.ae4837c71d146bcb467fdde76a94345d.jpg

IMG_20150625_200027_zpszfsv2blu.thumb.jpg.2d4255f06d9a6336574ba87db4c45c68.jpg

 

Remove both torx screws in the side panel:

Image0996-1.jpg

IMG_20130509_174653_zps7c379b71.jpg

IMG_20130509_174611_zpsb0b5b9a5.jpg

IMG_20130509_173708_zps10912fd1.jpg

IMG_20130509_142241_zpsb974f629.jpg

Useful to have a plastic bottle or something to store all screws in preventing them from loss :

Stage5.thumb.jpg.f50eadfceb565d2f7cd6eea2df3cbcb9.jpg

On the boot door there's two grab handles,

Inside these handles are two torx screws; one in each pocket.

IMG_20150103_124446_zpso0kmwkxy.thumb.jpg.398cc2f23de663ab47fac3daaffa5e24.jpg

IMG_20150625_220916_zpsdpxmgog7.thumb.jpg.8e621f569ea9da9190dd1d89e2add6c7.jpg

IMG_20150103_124458_zpskkdefxy5.thumb.jpg.dc9fae1565970af54db6c2b05e7bcd04.jpg

Remove both screws:

IMG_20150103_124759_zpswjqojltn.thumb.jpg.4353ca429409d4fe5a5f7e10449616c3.jpg

Now with one hand holding the metal boot door,

 

 

Pull down the plastic panel with your other hand.

IMG_20150625_200432_zpsamfedzz4.thumb.jpg.fe4dee39a3ae8fa045169dc6a474b602.jpg

IMG_20150625_200502_zpskyoacrof.thumb.jpg.bd6945e083c7947363085a28b12bff70.jpg

IMG_20150625_200523_zpsspqmk5wl.thumb.jpg.cefad6b434c7a69539701c9ff26c124a.jpg

Here's what's beneath:

IMG_20150103_124852_zpsltxuabdn.thumb.jpg.338c16f6238208f03e9187839aacabdb.jpg

IMG_20150103_124852_zpsltxuabd_edit_1420290580996_zpskewz0scv.thumb.jpg.6b374f75bdd27d81ccc05fe37c11b13d.jpg

Now remove all six Nuts from iside the panel.

This can be awkward when working over head,

I suggest sitting in the boot on the sill,

With your feet on the ground outside the vehicle,

Bring the boot panel down on to your lap makes it much easier to work with,

Also when removing these nuts;

Count the rotations to removal

This avoids over tightening when refitting the panel.

Here's the nut locations:

Left:

IMG_20150103_124940_zpsdgx9oi1_edit_1420305289269_zpsspobqg4k.thumb.jpg.96a51294d5888067dc388d82dafd833b.jpg

Right:

IMG_20150103_124929_zpsp6g9hqw_edit_1420305467086_zpsgjmjhulb.thumb.jpg.590c38b513b4cfaacf8c19176d887aa5.jpg

After removing the nuts there are two clips which grip in to the boot,

These are quite brittle if they snap you can seal with a small amount of silicone sealant,

There only there to assist alignment of the panel as the bolts do all the gripping.

When the outer panel is removed you will see a rubber grommet like the one in the image below:

Image121_edit_1420354299837_zpshso2ckcm.thumb.jpg.6f9df5ac3d105b61a3e68775f5388f37.jpg

It's possible to disconnect a plug inside the boot panel allowing full removal of the panel,

Allowing it to be brought to a table for working with,

Here's what the loom is like dissected from the panels:

IMG_20140831_120756_zps1bhee2o_edit_1420

The single plug on far side of the rubber grommet is the one that's inside the boot panel.

Unplug it and the whole panel is free to remove:

At this point the standard electronic boot handle should be removed by unplugging it from the loom and squeezing the retaining clips from either side of the unit.

Image178_edit_1420355070173_zpsnbchlx2z.

IMG_20140831_120806_zps49d4z1c5.jpg

Cut loom plug from the end of the boot handle loom:

IMG_20141122_164327_zpsmedqjavc.thumb.jpg.4fbb43cd7b3aac7c5c938fa2184640e0.jpg

Strip ends ready for crimping on the new terminals:

IMG_20141122_164437_zpswnlmutw_edit_1416692564411_zpsilb4dirj.thumb.jpg.6a3f0b212016baf8ae190b177149abb1.jpg

Ensure both cables are passing through the boot panel prior to crimping

Insert one cable inside one of the red crimps and squeeze it tight with top of crimping tool.

Repeat on the second terminal,

It doesn't matter which terminal is crimped to which cable in this case.

Following image is for illustration purpose:

IMG_20141229_163454_zpssuqarzz_edit_1419

Working on this guide across the weekend guys,

I've gotta back fill with images and some text,

I didn't get the required images taken at the time of installation because it was so therapeutic to install.

Ill edit across the weekend.

Green&yellow feed is reverse positive:

Image1449.jpg

Hi Lenny, Sorry to bother you but I saw your reverse camera guide and was hoping for your help.

Could you see if the below idea is correct for the reverse camera connections?  

RCA cable red wire:  - the red wire on one end connects to the reverse light positive. The red wire on the other connects to the head unit.  

Camera power cable:  - Connects to reverse light positive and ground cables.     

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i think thats what i asked (above)

if you have a Chinese head unit (i have an xtrons unit)

and a camera that either goes in the number plate light location or the boot release (as above) then the camera comes with a yellow RCA lead that has a red witre on both ends ? if thats a yes, then its the same as mine, dont' bother doing anything with this wire

 

just connect the camera to the head unit with the yellow RCA lead

the power lead must attach to the revering light, as you do not want power 24/7 , just when you stick it in reverse 🙂

 

Hope that help

@Lenny Can you confirm ?

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@shiwarrior

Yes I have two red wires either end of the yellow RCA cable.
Thank you for clearing that up, I wonder what each end connects to then?

Also did you connect the cameras positive and ground to the reverse light positive and ground wires?

 

 

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i haven't fitted mine yet, ill be doing it in a couple of weeks when i have the whole day spare

 

i think its just positive and negative of the reversing light

Should be on the guide

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@shiwarrior
This is my understanding of it in the attached image:Screenshot_20190820-173111__01__01__02__01__01.thumb.jpg.55f1fd8cc0aaa96e3c6c3085fc6a7e10.jpgAnd then the Cameras power also connects to the reverse light positive and connects to reverse light ground.

So essentially there will be two red wires connected to the reverse light positive wire.

Please could someone confirm if this is correct?

 

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3 hours ago, Solverz said:

I have made a quick diagram of how I understand it to be connected, please could someone confirm if this is correct? Key.thumb.png.4e922f54448ce41059e55bfff3df6084.png

@shiwarrior

@Lenny

@

Hi,

Yes that's correct but some aftermarket headunits now offer to display the rear camera while driving or on demand without having to put the car in reverse gear;

In order to be able to use this feature aswell, If you wanted then you just need to put the camera Positive power to an ignition live instead. 

I missed that feature in my guide and my pioneer headunit offers the feature but I cant use it as my camera power comes from the reverse light Positive 🤷‍♂️

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2 hours ago, Lenny said:

Hi,

Yes that's correct but some aftermarket headunits now offer to display the rear camera while driving or on demand without having to put the car in reverse gear;

In order to be able to use this feature aswell, If you wanted then you just need to put the camera Positive power to an ignition live instead. 

I missed that feature in my guide and my pioneer headunit offers the feature but I cant use it as my camera power comes from the reverse light Positive 🤷‍♂️

Awesome, thank you for clearing my confusion up ☺.

I see what you mean about the reverse power, where would you say is the best ignition live to splice into on the rear?

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10 hours ago, Solverz said:

Awesome, thank you for clearing my confusion up ☺.

I see what you mean about the reverse power, where would you say is the best ignition live to splice into on the rear?

Tough question on the rear to be honest; I cant think of any expect the 12v socket power supply and that's a permanent live also too high of amperage. 

See it in the guide here: 

Maybe best run a piggy back fuse with a 10amp fuse and 15amp cable from F100 in the passenger footwell board to the camera. 

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3 hours ago, Lenny said:

Tough question on the rear to be honest; I cant think of any expect the 12v socket power supply and that's a permanent live also too high of amperage. 

See it in the guide here: 

Maybe best run a piggy back fuse with a 10amp fuse and 15amp cable from F100 in the passenger footwell board to the camera. 

Awesome, thank you I I think I've got one spare so will try and find that.

I was also wondering what guage cable would you say if safe to use for the cameras positive and ground as I can't find any current information on the camera itself and I need to extend these cables.

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27 minutes ago, Solverz said:

Awesome, thank you I I think I've got one spare so will try and find that.

I was also wondering what guage cable would you say if safe to use for the cameras positive and ground as I can't find any current information on the camera itself and I need to extend these cables.

15amp cable is best for LED's and cameras, 

10amp fuses then 

25Amp cable for 12v sockets and 20amp fuse 

If wiring amplifiers then 4AWG is best can then be split to two smaller 8AWG in the boot if required for two class D amplifiers.

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32 minutes ago, Lenny said:

15amp cable is best for LED's and cameras, 

10amp fuses then 

25Amp cable for 12v sockets and 20amp fuse 

If wiring amplifiers then 4AWG is best can then be split to two smaller 8AWG in the boot if required for two class D amplifiers.

I see, 15amp cable it is then 😅

Can I ask how you go about working out what amp cable is needed for devices?

I've searched Google but it is all mixed opinions.

 

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2 hours ago, Solverz said:

I see, 15amp cable it is then 😅

Can I ask how you go about working out what amp cable is needed for devices?

I've searched Google but it is all mixed opinions.

Not being funny here but "from experience" of doing the guides, but you could also study the item your wiring; 

The amp of fuse is the speed limit on the cable,

The amp of cable is the maximum speed limit it can handle without getting hot or stripping its insulation in to a fire 😬

And the way I gained that was from a very helpful and reputable man called Dave whom has a shop on eBay selling automotive electrical equipment,

I used to message him to ask what amp cable do I need for say X Y or Z

He would recommend then I'd purchase from him and link the specific cable from his shop in the guides because that's where I bought from 🤷‍♂️ no discounts or anything I'm just a nice guy who recommended him.

Heres a link to his shop; the guy must eat cigarettes though lol all packages smell of cigarettes ☺️

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/autostarshop 

Regarding wiring amplifiers then I read up on other peoples installs aswell as doing a few in the past myself; I've currently two class D amplifiers in my focus with a 1.0 fared capacitor, the capacitor is an interesting piece too. Wrapped in redbull can print; it acts as a reservoir of instant power available to the amplifier at a fast rate to cushion the demands from the battery without the driving lights dimming 😛

Heres my most recent install a 20" 500w light bar on my mates yaris 

iMarkup_20190805_213218.thumb.jpg.fe267ec62ccdba5f7172bdc58c4d4332.jpg

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30 minutes ago, Lenny said:

Not being funny here but "from experience" of doing the guides, but you could also study the item your wiring; 

The amp of fuse is the speed limit on the cable,

The amp of cable is the maximum speed limit it can handle without getting hot or stripping its insulation in to a fire 😬

And the way I gained that was from a very helpful and reputable man called Dave whom has a shop on Ebay selling automotive electrical equipment,

I used to message him to ask what amp cable do I need for say X Y or Z

He would recommend then I'd purchase from him and link the specific cable from his shop in the guides because that's where I bought from 🤷‍♂️ no discounts or anything I'm just a nice guy who recommended him.

Heres a link to his shop; the guy must eat cigarettes though lol all packages smell of cigarettes ☺️

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/autostarshop 

Regarding wiring amplifiers then I read up on other peoples installs aswell as doing a few in the past myself; I've currently two class D amplifiers in my focus with a 1.0 fared capacitor, the capacitor is an interesting piece too. Wrapped in redbull can print; it acts as a reservoir of instant power available to the amplifier at a fast rate to cushion the demands from the battery without the driving lights dimming 😛

Heres my most recent install a 20" 500w light bar on my mates yaris 

iMarkup_20190805_213218.thumb.jpg.fe267ec62ccdba5f7172bdc58c4d4332.jpg

I'll check his shop out! And the amp and yaris sound/look well good!, how long did that take 😅

 

Also regarding the wiring of the reverse camera and using the fuse amp rating to determine what cable to use, that is what I thought would be a good idea also but there is not an inline fuse included with the reverse camera sadly or should there be one thinking about it?!!

 

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