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2005 Tdci Sudden Loss Of Power And Flashing Glow Plug Light...


Chevy88uk
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Parts wise I would say £500 for a remanufactured turbo and £1000 for a new one, plus fitting - just a guess off the top of my head knowing what's the rough cost of a turbo with an electronic actuator costs.

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Evans Halshaw got back in touch today with their prices...brace yourselves...

New turbo fitted = £1,550

My turbo sent away and rebuilt = £940 plus 1 - 1.5 weeks without the car.

I'm guessing I'll get a better price with a reconditioned turbo from an independent garage, just means I'll have to pay upfront and claim £500 of it back from the warranty company.

Any idea how much labour time it takes to change a turbo? The warranty company will only pay £40 an hour.

The car is driving fine when kept under 2.5k rpm...will this turbo issue gradually get worse? I didn't think to ask them what the actual fault codes were, I might ask them next time I speak to them...though I wouldn't be surprised if they won't tell me.

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I wouldnt drive it, if the turbo is failing it could draw metal shards into the engine - not worth the risk.

I would go with the recon turbo, but I think its about 3 hours quoted?

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I am only going on what you have told us but... There are places that recondition the electronic actuator for around £100 - which is going to be less than what you will need to add to have the turbo replaced...

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Does the actuator not need to be coded to the turbo? I've heard that you can only buy them paired together?

Anybody ever had any luck with the Sales of Goods Act as I've only had the car for 4 months and read on the citizens advice site that if it's less than 6 months you have certain rights?

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They will take your unit and return it back to you so as far as coding it should be perfectly fine. If your one is found to be ok and no faults, you only pay a small fee to cover diagnostics.

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Ok cool. But if I were to go to a breakers yard and get an actuator off another car then I'm assuming that won't work?

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Had seem thing that I fixed with a blanking plate

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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I didn't realise these were paired together, but I would avoid the scrappy if you can get the service as mentioned.

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I have a 2004 2L TDCI





If you haven't already fixed it, Before spending loads of dosh - I would recommend



1 New air filter



2 New Bosch fuel filter



3 De coke the EGR valve and the manifold it feeds





The Actuator may stick in a certain spot - mine did and would not go back to its home position when the engine was switched off
preventing the engine being re-stated next time. I had to do this manually by helping it back to its home position by pushing on the linkage to the turbo.



Note there was nothing wrong with the actuator because theTurbo Vanes were sticking.



I cured this by removing Turbo from car (2 people x 4 hrs)
stripped Turbo down on dinning room table and clean Vanes with neat Diesel (1 1/2 hrs) refitted next day (2 people x 2 1/2 hrs) I'm not suggesting it was
easy but you can get an idea how long a repair shop will take i.e a lot less than this because they have got all the tools and lifts and know how.

1 year on all is still ok



Total cost = £0 apart from tongue lashing from the wife.



Main dealer will probably find other things for you to replace next (fuel pump x cost a lota)

Like I say try easiest cheapest first and don't believe they have already being done as part of a service

Also dont use cheapo diesel try Shell v power - more expensive but my car runs better

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How do you decoke the egr and pipe? What with?

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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You need to remove Valve from car - search other threads for this because I think there is one with pictures. It's a few bolts only.

Manually scrape ( old blunt knife will do )and clean inside of valve (scotch brite or simular) - elbo grease only cost.

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Thanks hugs, I may take the egr valve off over the weekend and give it a good clean.

I've ordered a modified elm cable off eBay which should turn up today so I'll read the codes later and see if evans halshaw have even diagnosed it correctly.

Will update soon.

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Used Forscan with the elm cable yesterday and it returned the fault code P132B, so I guess that would confirm it's the turbo.

I'm going to remove and clean the EGR valve today anyway and see what state it's in.

After calling evans halshaw to request a copy of their diagnostics report they sent me a vehicle health check (they didn't tell me they'd even carried out a health check until now) anyway the following were all noted as "red" category:

Filtration / Ignition - Recommend fuel filter replacement due to lack of power and excessive smoke on acceleration.

Also, Heavy black smoke on acceleration, suspect EGR valve partially blocked. Recommend EGR removal and clean out using Tunap 129.

(Unrelated items were low brake fluid boiling point and excessive drumming noise coming from auxiliary drive belt tensioner)

post-59559-142572605366_thumb.jpg

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The problem with fault codes is that they can point you in the wrong direction sometimes eg injectors or turbo failure when the route cause is lack of fuel or lack of air. So as I said before do these things

1 New air filter

2 New Bosch fuel filter

3 De coke the EGR valve and the manifold it feeds

its the cheapest and easyest things to do and may give you the result you require before changing Turbo or injectors.

I've just ordered a Delphi fuel filter to put on - my car came with one some years ago so I'm going to try one again because mine is due for replacement. If you change yours remember to fill the filter full of virgin diesel before you try to start the car.

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Before you spend money buying another Turbo take a look at this. A few bits to drill and tap a thread in the turbo housing, some Mr Muscle oven cleaner and what looks like a McDonalds straw maybe all you need to fix this issue?? I found it the other day whilst surfing on youtube and may help in this case....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFDMd8eVVXo

Basically the turbo vains become coked up with carbon and do not operate as they should, which can cause you to have the coil light flashing at crusing speed. (Assuming the EGR valve is working correctly) also the if the actuator, as mentioned before, doesn't have the full range of motion it can not operate correctly causing issues. By doing what this guy has done in the video you should cure the problem and not have to replace the turbo, unless the plastic actuator gear mechanism has sheared of course, due to the actuator being stuck?

Good thing about this aswell is as part of maintainence you can do this periodically to keep on top of it as part of your service? Seems like a good idea to me and definately handy to know :D

In this video, this is how much movement the actuator arm should have....

Hope this helps if not I hope you get to the bottom of the problem

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Seen a link to that one before though I did miss how they seal the turbo.

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I guess when he taps a thread and puts an M8 bolt in seals it. It's on the exhaust side of the turbo in which he puts the thread, so boost wouldn't be affected as it's not on the compressor side. Has anyone on here tried this?

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I cleaned out the EGR valve last weekend and it was quite dirty, full of soot. Not sure it really made a massive difference. I also removed the clip for the actuator arm and moved it back and forward...it was sticking half way but it did start to ease up.

This seemed to do the trick! All seemed fine for 3 days (could accelerate hard without the glow plug light coming on) until after being sat in slow moving traffic on the M6 it displayed the glow plug light again after accelerating onto a bypass. Checked the arm and it was sticking again. Moved it until it freed up and seemed ok but next day the glow plug light came back.

Currently waiting for the finance company to process my claim.

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Think you've found the culprit. If you are quite handy with the spanners you can take the turbo off and give it a good clean, or you can probably buy some chemical cleaner which goes into the intake to remove carbon build up, although personally I don't think this will do as good as removal or the method in the video above.

I have seen articles regarding using 2 stroke mixed with fuel, about 200:1 ratio, to reduce the soot created by diesel fuel. The oil has to be mineral based but the logic behind it is the 2 stroke oil burns slightly hotter so you get a more complete burn, whilst lubricating the seals in the pump and injectors. Supermarket fuels probably have something to do with it aswell as I believe they are of lesser quality than the branded fuels but each to their own I guess.. As you probably already know years ago, diesel had sulphur which used to do this job of lubrication but since everything is now going bio fuel and has to be a minimum 5%, some diesel technicians believe that is the reason for premature injector failure and other issues?

I started using 2 stroke oil in my car a while back and have noticed that soot has been reduced whem you floor it and also is quieter on idle and cold start transit van sound is less so maybe theres some truth in it?

Anyway hope you get it sorted soon mate :)

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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE!

The finance company accepted our claim and agreed to pay for the remainder of the cost. So warranty paid £500 and they paid the £330 left to pay.

Car went in last Thursday, I was due to pick it up Monday but apparently the engine management light wouldn't turn off...apparently it's law they can't give it back to me with the light still on. They said the EGR valve needed replacing (no cost to me) So I picked it up today.

Just wanted to check a few things...it drives much better than it did before but when pulling away in first from lights etc it seems to leave quite a black cloud of smoke behind...never really noticed this before it was fixed. Can also seem a little sluggish in first and second until the turbo kicks in.

This sound normal?

Thanks

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