MattDRX

Things I Don't Like

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I don't like this which has just happened. 

So, I've just had a Virgin Media engineer come to the property. Apparently my connection to the network is causing issues with other customers connections. He's checked the connection and there seems to be a lot of signal noise coming from my connection to the network. 
He tested the line and has traced it to my cable but can't pinpoint exactly where the fault is. He asked me to check that all the connections to the network were correctly screwed in to the router, the wall socket, the TiVo box and the splitter for the TV/network cable. All these were correctly screwed in and tight. 
I can't understand how, after 8 years of the cable being installed, this fault has suddenly appeared and is causing disruption to other customers in the area. 

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Some of you may remember I posted about switching to laundry liquid from laundry powder a few weeks ago...  Well I've finally finished my mammoth box of powder so onto the liquid...  However I've just realised the liquid dosing ball probably cant take the heat of the dryer...  I've got a washer/dryer combi that does the whole thing in one cycle. :unsure:  Not sure whether to put some directly into the drum or into the drawer...anyone know? 
I have a washer dryer and always stop between each phase.
Better to split the drying load in half to allow better drying and less crumpled garments.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

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I don't like this which has just happened. 

So, I've just had a Virgin Media engineer come to the property. Apparently my connection to the network is causing issues with other customers connections. He's checked the connection and there seems to be a lot of signal noise coming from my connection to the network. 
He tested the line and has traced it to my cable but can't pinpoint exactly where the fault is. He asked me to check that all the connections to the network were correctly screwed in to the router, the wall socket, the TiVo box and the splitter for the TV/network cable. All these were correctly screwed in and tight. 
I can't understand how, after 8 years of the cable being installed, this fault has suddenly appeared and is causing disruption to other customers in the area. 
As standard cable tv is fibre optic to the street distribution box and then copper from there to the house.
Copper infrastructure does break down with age and can cause crossover interference especially if the screening layer is degraded.

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6 minutes ago, Stoney871 said:

As standard cable tv is fibre optic to the street distribution box and then copper from there to the house.
Copper infrastructure does break down with age and can cause crossover interference especially if the screening layer is degraded.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

Virgin media is FTTH (fibre to the home) and not just to the cabinet (FTTC). Their entire network is fibre which is why you usually have to have the drive dug up for them to lay the cable. 

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13 minutes ago, Nick Y said:

Virgin media is FTTH (fibre to the home) and not just to the cabinet (FTTC). Their entire network is fibre which is why you usually have to have the drive dug up for them to lay the cable. 

Did he look like the late Glen Campbell atall? 

Says he can hear you singing in the wire? 

☺️

Mine is fibre to the home aswell; as saw in my home improvement thread here: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/80864-living-room-project/?do=findComment&comment=699948 

I've fitted some RF shielded mains power conditioners in my attic for each bedroom television equipment, not because I had to; just wanted optimum results, there commonly used for audio equipment and those making music to block out interference; seems the main cause of interference in the home is the fridge or a heater which can send interference down the line to other devices,

If hes there trailing for issues; try turning off the fridge on the main switch board and sing Wichita line man by Glenn Campbell 😂 see if he remarks atall 

Also heres another hit from Glenn to sing if he says you need to pay for a full installation 

 

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I've had no issues with interference or signal bounce/noise for 8 years though. I bought a new fridge freezer 3 years ago (no issues there) and have been using 4g phone signal for over a year (no issue there either). There's nothing new in my flat to cause interference and the cables to the router and box are far enough away from RF equipment. 
The engineer said that these network issues have arisen over the weekend and are causing signal drop for others and it could be traced to my property but couldn't find the exact point where the issue was. Nothing has changed though since the system was installed. The only thing I can think of which would cause such an issue would have been the heat we experienced last week. My cable doesn't run underground from the street to the flat, it runs along the property garden wall and then into some grates in the driveway and around the side of the flat and then up the wall. It's not like the cable could have been run over or anything. 

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1 hour ago, Nick Y said:

Virgin media is FTTH (fibre to the home) and not just to the cabinet (FTTC). Their entire network is fibre which is why you usually have to have the drive dug up for them to lay the cable. 

It used to be FTTC, the "last mile" (usually less), was carried by copper coax cable, that still necessated a visit, because it was their own cable, not BT's. We moved out of a virgin cable area about 10 yrs ago though, so I only know about current openreach networks.

Have Virgin upgraded everyone to full fibre? Or only certain areas.

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15 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

Have Virgin upgraded everyone to full fibre? Or only certain areas.

A couple of years back Virgin brought the wonders of cable to our village,  laying up to the threshold of every property. In the process they caused months of utter chaos and filth and trashed every pavement in the village and quite a few roads, which the Council are still sorting out. Now we are bombarded with "fantastic" broadband and media offers in every post, which are much more expensive than our current provider. So there seems to have been little take up, after all that!

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3 hours ago, alexp999 said:

It usually says on the back of the pack for the liquid the dosing ball must be removed before a drying cycle.

How runny is the liquid? I.e. it's liquid and not gel? If it's as runny as fabric softener it should be able to go in the drawer ok. You might find the liquid doesn't get distriuted properly or just ends of all going out the bottom of the drum if you just chuck liquid straight in to the drum.

Does your machine not have the option to stop between wash and dry so you can remove the ball? Or do you need to be able to just set and forget.

Yeah it does say the ball should be removed.  But back when I was at home we had a 'solid' one that went through the dryer fine...first time by accident!  The one I've been sent this time is soft and squidgy though so I'm worried it'll melt! :unsure: 

The liquid is really thin and runny...as soon as I put it in the drawer it immediately runs away into (hopefully!?) the bottom of the tub without the need for any water to move it.  There's also no separator in my drawer for liquids unfortunately, the manual just says to pour it in the drawer immediately before starting the cycle.  The trouble with this is that my machine sometimes starts a drain/pump cycle briefly before starting the wash.  I don't know if it's just draining the condenser from the previous dry or if it's draining the drum as well...  If it's draining the drum it could be dumping the washing liquid straight down the drain which is obviously not what I'm after! :unsure: 

I tend to leave the machine on while I go out as I get cheap rate electric mid afternoon but the cycle takes so long I'd lose an afternoon otherwise...looking at about 5.5 hours for a 60c wash plus a 'cupboard' dry (automatic cut-off when it's dry enough to put away) of towels etc.  😮 

I have tried pouring it in the drawer today but I'll have to wait another hour or so to see if it's worked.  I can smell the detergent in the kitchen but that might mean it's just been dumped straight down the drain.  Couldn't see any lather in the drum when I started it either...  Think I'll go back to powder... :laugh: 

 

3 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

I have a washer dryer and always stop between each phase.
Better to split the drying load in half to allow better drying and less crumpled garments.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

Each to their own, I don't dry clothes, only towels and bedding so I'm not fussed about crumples lol, it seems to dry alright but I don't fill it to max capacity as I live alone.  My dryer also seems to cycle slightly differently if I do a wash & dry cycle compared to separates, it seems to take about half an hour less to do them together for some reason.

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I don't like finding out it wasn't a radiator hose but rather the radiator itself has cracked!  So new radiator plus a CV boot he noticed needed replaced altogether will be £330 plus I still need new front tyres after all that!

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1 hour ago, jmurray01 said:

I don't like finding out it wasn't a radiator hose but rather the radiator itself has cracked!  So new radiator plus a CV boot he noticed needed replaced altogether will be £330 plus I still need new front tyres after all that!

Wow that's alot for CV boot and radiator mate but when I think about it the environmental cost of disposal of existing coolant from the radiator and refill aswell as time removing parts to gain full access.

Sorry to be saying but: Ensure that price includes tracking alignment after the CV joint has been accessed the vehicle will be out of alignment and require tracking to correct again, 

Otherwise the new tyres wont last long, 

Over here they sell partially worn tyres, sort of get two for the cost of one new? 

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Alignment shouldn't need doing as they'll just remove the lower BJ.  Even if they unbolt it it's easy to see the dirt & rust line to get it back in the right place.  I agree that price sounds way too much.

Stretch boots are cheap and easy, £10ish.  Radiator is probably around £100 on the Passat.  £30 for coolant.  Guessing around 2 hours labour at £50 each.  Still leaves nearly £100 somewhere... :unsure:

 

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36 minutes ago, Lenny said:

Wow that's alot for CV boot and radiator mate but when I think about it the environmental cost of disposal of existing coolant from the radiator and refill aswell as time removing parts to gain full access.

Sorry to be saying but: Ensure that price includes tracking alignment after the CV joint has been accessed the vehicle will be out of alignment and require tracking to correct again, 

Otherwise the new tyres wont last long, 

Over here they sell partially worn tyres, sort of get two for the cost of one new? 

Well it's a garage I've used for about 5 years so I doubt they are out to scam me.  He did say the radiator is a pig of a job on the Passat as the bumper has to come off etc... 

Besides I don't have much choice as I can't exactly drive it with no coolant to another garage and the cost of having it towed would outweigh any possible savings.

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39 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Alignment shouldn't need doing as they'll just remove the lower BJ.  Even if they unbolt it it's easy to see the dirt & rust line to get it back in the right place.  I agree that price sounds way too much.

Stretch boots are cheap and easy, £10ish.  Radiator is probably around £100 on the Passat.  £30 for coolant.  Guessing around 2 hours labour at £50 each.  Still leaves nearly £100 somewhere... :unsure:

 

Not necessarily as some people have said it can take 3-4 hours to do the rad since requires the removal of the bumper and other parts to get it out, then of course everything back on again and the system refilled.  Plus the labour for the CV joint boot that's probably at least 4 hours total.

About the same as what the guy in this thread was quoted in 2011: http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/120025-Guide-price-for-fully-fitted-new-radiator-on-Mark-5-Golf

I do hope you are correct about the alignment though, as I just got it done a couple of months ago! 

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12 hours ago, jmurray01 said:

Not necessarily as some people have said it can take 3-4 hours to do the rad since requires the removal of the bumper and other parts to get it out, then of course everything back on again and the system refilled.  Plus the labour for the CV joint boot that's probably at least 4 hours total.

About the same as what the guy in this thread was quoted in 2011: http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/120025-Guide-price-for-fully-fitted-new-radiator-on-Mark-5-Golf

I do hope you are correct about the alignment though, as I just got it done a couple of months ago! 

I don't know how anyone can afford garage labour in all honesty, especially for old cars. :sad:

I was considering having the Golf serviced at the same time as MOT if I've still got it in November (it'll be a year overdue by then...long gone are the times I'd do 6k servicing on the DV6 Focus, fortunately it's not a fussy engine! :laugh: ) but have been shocked at the prices just for an oil change now!  :unsure:  Can't do it myself anymore as I can't bend/lift/lay under a car without triggering stomach & bowel issues.  The only thing I'm considering atm is using an electric pump to drain the oil through the dipstick hole so I don't have to get underneath.  The filters are all on top so I should still be able to do those.

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I don't like finding these High Speed Step HSS drill bit set for sale in my local Lidl for €3.99 last Sunday,

Because I had just ordered a set from amazon on the Saturday paid €10.99 including shipping; which arrived today but the cost of returning would be the price of the set selling in Lidl, 

20190730_091715.thumb.jpg.295c2784ef71f14efd97de7cf4f195b1.jpg

The set here from amazon is probably of better build quality than the set in Lidl; but I'm only going to be using then to drill plastic when fitting a 12v rocker switch and a 12v USB power supply socket in my mates car.

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11 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I don't know how anyone can afford garage labour in all honesty, especially for old cars. :sad:

I was considering having the Golf serviced at the same time as MOT if I've still got it in November (it'll be a year overdue by then...long gone are the times I'd do 6k servicing on the DV6 Focus, fortunately it's not a fussy engine! :laugh: ) but have been shocked at the prices just for an oil change now!  :unsure:  Can't do it myself anymore as I can't bend/lift/lay under a car without triggering stomach & bowel issues.  The only thing I'm considering atm is using an electric pump to drain the oil through the dipstick hole so I don't have to get underneath.  The filters are all on top so I should still be able to do those.

Neither do I!  I can hardly make ends meet as it is without these garage bills, but it's a case of live by the sword die by the sword as I need the car for work. 

Like you I can't do hardly any work on my own cars anymore as the anxiety makes me too afraid to start a job and the M.E. makes it impossible to finish one!!  Honestly my life's like a black comedy :laughing:

I have to get the Passat's oil changed every 6k since it has the notorious oil pump and turbo, neither of which like going too long between oil changes...

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I'm having massive problem with SGS and my struts that don't do the job and also have video proof of this and sent them back for a check, and they old the pressure.

Was told to send them back fpr test which did at my cost which took 8 days for them to test (they reviewed them as sign for proof) and it's a 24-hour test.

They said I can't have a full refund as there is marks where the clips fit on the screw on end, you try and not put a mark on taking them off 4 or more times.

They are looking at what I can get back which I won't accept, so I have asked for them back as at least I have them, some of there reviews are shocking.

Let's just say I have 100% on video showing they don't lift at half-way, packing proof where there is no marks so I have my rights on this, they might be OK on test but don't work,SGS might make good stuff ETC but there return checking/testing is bad and they just pull you all over the place.

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I don't like the dentist appointment I have today. At a young age I'd get stressed out about going to the dentist that I'm 21 now without getting braces. Also hope I get good parking at the train station and don't see any marks on the car when I get back. 

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I don't like the fact I haven't narrowed down the creaking from my rear end (and no it's not from the Indian I had!)

Took my friend for a lift and the creaking stopped the entire journey. Dropped him off back home and off it started again. Bizarre!

 

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On 7/24/2019 at 8:22 PM, Turvey said:

How many do you need? Our next room destruction is imminent and I discovered that the old wardrobes had these for holding glass shelves. There's 16 of them, probably not enough, but might be of use to you 😉

IMG_20190724_200248059.jpg

I do like fixing Nan's shelf with these today...the shelf will give way before these do, I'm surprised how strong they are tbh!!  Nan is very pleased! 

We also gave the cupboard a good clean out between us which gave her a sense of achievement which isn't often easy to find for her these days!

Thanks again @Turvey :biggrin:

 

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15 minutes ago, Micro said:

I don't like the fact I haven't narrowed down the creaking from my rear end (and no it's not from the Indian I had!)

Took my friend for a lift and the creaking stopped the entire journey. Dropped him off back home and off it started again. Bizarre!

 

Definitely rear end?  Not passenger seat rails or belt catch?

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1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I do like fixing Nan's shelf with these today...the shelf will give way before these do, I'm surprised how strong they are tbh!!  Nan is very pleased! 

We also gave the cupboard a good clean out between us which gave her a sense of achievement which isn't often easy to find for her these days!

Thanks again @Turvey :biggrin:

 

No problems, glad your Nan's happy 👍

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2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Definitely rear end?  Not passenger seat rails or belt catch?

Definitely rear, going over bumps with the front is quiet unless also flexing the rear suspension. Next thing I'm trying is to totally disconnect the rear ARB to rule that out!

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19 hours ago, jace1969 said:

I'm having massive problem with SGS and my struts that don't do the job and also have video proof of this and sent them back for a check, and they old the pressure.

Was told to send them back fpr test which did at my cost which took 8 days for them to test (they reviewed them as sign for proof) and it's a 24-hour test.

They said I can't have a full refund as there is marks where the clips fit on the screw on end, you try and not put a mark on taking them off 4 or more times.

They are looking at what I can get back which I won't accept, so I have asked for them back as at least I have them, some of there reviews are shocking.

Let's just say I have 100% on video showing they don't lift at half-way, packing proof where there is no marks so I have my rights on this, they might be OK on test but don't work,SGS might make good stuff ETC but there return checking/testing is bad and they just pull you all over the place.

Faulty goods, Consumer Rights Act is your friend.

Consumer Contracts Regulations also applies if a distance sale (i.e. internet or phone)

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