RyanMitcham Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Hi all, i have been having an issue with the engine temperature. It takes an absolute age to get to normal running temperature and to get there i have to drive it quite hard which i dont like doing when the engine isnt warm. My thoughts were that the thermostat was jammed open so i bought and installed a new one. i have had the expansion tank cap off and had the car running for about half an hour. Eventually it got to running temp after sitting there revving it however the water in the expansion tank has not dropped so i am thinking that the car isnt actually at running temperature or hot enough to cause the thermostat to open. I have opened the bleed valve on the waterpump and only water come out... no air! Took the car for an enthusiastic drive, still the water hasnt dropped?! Does anyone have any ideas of what to do next? Why isnt the car getting hot? do you think i need to do the oil cooler thermostat? Any ideas or suggestions welcome! Thank you in advance 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandads_shed Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 i have the same on mine since i got it last December. mine is a 2010 model.. have to do around 15 to 20 mins before it gets to temp. still have not worked it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 I tell you what, i have never had so many problems for such an easy job. I have replaced the thermostat inside the housing, now water is lraking out of the housing when it is under pressure. so i take off the whole housing, make sure all the seals are lined up and now the o ring on the housing that goes into the side of the engine is knackered so this constantly leaks now... why are things so !Removed! difficulty all the time! On a more positive note, i did take inlet manifold off and gave that a good clean up along with the egr valve which i have now blanked off but i dont know what difference its made to the car yet because of the poxy water leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOF Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 ...why are things so !Removed! difficulty all the time! That's things for you, and is related to Sod's law and the unrelenting embuggerance emanating from things mechanical. Mind you, things organic aren't much better... I tell you what, i have never had so many problems for such an easy job. I have replaced the thermostat inside the housing, now water is lraking out of the housing when it is under pressure. so i take off the whole housing, make sure all the seals are lined up and now the o ring on the housing that goes into the side of the engine is knackered so this constantly leaks now... Well, you either need a new O-ring, or you could try patching it up with, eg, silicone sealant. Really, the new O-ring is the way to go, unless you can't get to the garage to get the O-ring unless you do something to seal it up. Once you've got the O-ring fitted, you can then see if you've got other problems... Is your car the "Ford Mondeo 2.0 tdci 130bhp Zetec Year: 2006" mentioned in you thumbnail? Because there will be a big difference between that and, say, a MkIV 2 litre (and that and a 1.8, and the 1.8 and a 1.6, etc, etc). I think if it is still not getting up to temperature, you are probably down to the oil thermostat (if fitted to your car, etc) and possibly the electrical heating arrangement (if fitted to your car, etc). I think the smart money is probably on the oil cooler, but an electrical fault, like a lead fallen off or damaged might be simpler and cheaper, so you might want to look around for that first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 Yes my car is the 2.0 tdci 130bhp year 2006. It was the o ring in the end and i managed to source one and thankfully all sorted now! I have got an oil cooler stat on order and will hopefully be here tomorrow so i can fit it and i am then hoping, fingers crossed that it sorts the overcooling problem. I bought the car because i used to work 5mins round the corner from home and i will now be doing about a 150mile round trip every day so i need an economical car! The overcooling isnt helping with mpg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Right i have now changed the oil cooler stat and it has made no difference! Question, does blanking the egr valve make the engine run cooler?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Update... i have now taken the oil cooler stat off of the car again as it was no better. Unfortunately i am now doing it all one handed as i severely burnt my left hand the other day on very hot coolant whilst trying to solve this issue. The NEW oil stat is not sealing properly, i can blow straight through it! How can this be with a new part?! I am less than impressed but that will teach me for buying patent parts (dont get me wrong, i have always bought patent parts and they have been fine but this one has caught me out) I have now ordered another new oil stat but from ford this time! I am collecting that tomorrow and will then be fitting! Watch this space... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 New oil stat from ford has been fitted and the car is showing some improvement but it is still not 100% It is still not getting the temperature needle to half way and sitting there. Next step is to change the main thermostat back to the original ford part as i have read about issues with oem thermostats. Hopefully that should sort it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEAKEY Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I have the same problem with my Mk4 2L163, i.e. takes forever to warm up. I did some research a while back and dicovered that the thermostat (coolant) only comes in one type. Not possible to change to summer / winter like we used to ! The opening temp. of the standard stat is extremely high - over 90 deg - which is why it takes so long to warm up. Apparently this is just the way they are, so I have resigned myself to it !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 But surely if the thermostat takes so long to open up, then the engine should warm up quicker! Hence why if a thermostat jams shut, the engine will overheat! I think with mine, the oem thermostat is still allowing water to trickle through where it is not sealing properly which is why it is still taking long to heat up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEAKEY Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 You are right of course but most people judge "engine warmup" by how quickly they feel warmth from the heater. The higher the thermostat rating, the longer it takes to open a flow of hot water to the radiator and thus to the heater matrix, so the longer it takes to feel the car ( interior ) warming up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 Yeah i am with you. the heater in mine does actually heat up quite quickly but the engine temperature (from watching the thermostat needle) does not ever get to the middle and it is taking an age to even move. It is slightly better now i have changed the oil cooler stat bit still not 100% My concern is around the engine oil etc and excessive engine wear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEAKEY Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Hi Sadly, my heater takes as long to warm up as the temp.gauge does to move ! After 50+years with most makes of car I have learned that temp. gauges are notoriously inaccurate and that " norm" is where they are normally. For example, at full working temp. some gauges only reach a third of the way between cold and hot sectors. I have often replaced temp. gauges and find that the new one shows a completely different display to the old one - just a matter of calibration I guess ? As far as engine wear is concerned I do not think there is a significant problem with modern oils which are so thin even when cold that they are still performing their function. In fact, I am sometimes concerned by oils which run at 0SAE-5SAE when hot, as they have little chance to coat worn parts. However, I have confidence that the engineering genii ( geniuses ?? ) at the oil companies and the vehicle manufacturers understand it better than myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOF Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 In fact, I am sometimes concerned by oils which run at 0SAE-5SAE when hot, as they have little chance to coat worn parts. However, I have confidence that the engineering genii ( geniuses ?? ) at the oil companies and the vehicle manufacturers understand it better than myself. If you are thinking of a 5W-30, or a 0W-40, for example, the number in front of the 'W' is a cold rating, so it does not concern what the oil does when it is hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanMitcham Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Right, original coolant thermostat has been refitted and sealed in with gasket maker. The car is heating up much better, but it is still not sitting at half way on the dial. I am have tried to bleed it as best as i can but i seem to struggle to get it hot enough for the thermostat to actually open (the coolant hasnt dropped which would indicate the thermostat opening) if i put the blowers on full, the needle drops! I can only imagine that it is an airlock, but i cant shift it! I am at the end of my tether with it now, so it can just stay as it is and i will live with it. Hopefully the airlock will work its way out on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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