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Mk7.5 Speaker Upgrade

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Super Sound!

By F. Mciver on 31 May 2014
Verified Purchase
I have a non-changeable stereo in my little hatchback car which has a very disappointing sound quality. I replaced the speakers with some Vibe 2-way units and added this bass unit beneath the driver's seat, connected directly and very easily to the front speakers as my stereo has no RCA outputs. The sound is really very good. A great value upgrade for any crummy sound system. Highly recommended. Makes the rear view mirror vibrate :D

Bass guitar and the bass drum hugely enhanced and very enjoyable at any volume level.

Apparently this buyer claims to have connected it directly to the front speakers?



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  • GingerFlame
    GingerFlame

    I would disconnect the battery & turn on the ignition the discharge everything, try to turn the radio on too. Then go make a cuppa, come back and unplug stuff You should be fine without but with a

  • Photo's will be good enough, but be sure to have as many as possible ^_^ (create a guide, that's "idiot" proof) :D

  • Any photos of this set up please? As me being a fan of Trance/Funky House... I do like some base. But dislike the rattling door cards! :D I used to have a JBL sub/amp installed in the boot of my pr

Posted Images

Found this too:

post-62796-0-31758800-1428351600_thumb.j

Yeah, I had a look at that diagram last night. What I'm wondering is whether it is possible, using piggyback fuse holders, to get all the power requirements from the glovebox. No messing around trying to wire to the battery, just everything inside the car. There isn't much avoiding the need to splice into the speaker wires somewhere, but I'm less concerned about that than where I go shoving power connectors!

This diagram of the fuse box is currently being studied by me!

EDIT: attached for ease, but original link there as a reference ;)

post-61429-0-36752700-1428352149_thumb.j

And the manual glovebox fuse information...

post-61429-0-47401300-1428352105_thumb.p

I'm not sure the two photos match together, you know...

For the main supply you should in theory be able to use any circuit, upto you if you want a permanent live or a ignition live circuit ( I'd go permanent live). The remote on needs to be connected to an ignition live circuit.

The audio fuse appears to be 15A. Would it be possible to use a piggyback connector (with a 10A fuse in for the extension, as is required for the subwoofer), splice together both the power and remote and fit, as a single connection, to the extension? By my understanding, that would mean that the subwoofer only gets power and is told to get power (remote) when the audio system comes on. Or am I simply barking up the wrong tree here?

post-61429-0-02223700-1428353395_thumb.j

  • Author

o0o0o0oo0o0o0o looking at that diagram makes it more better (as i dont wanna go through the gator at the steering to battery)
only thing now is basically to connect it all up .... anyone know how to get behind the radio? lol

o0o0o0oo0o0o0o looking at that diagram makes it more better (as i dont wanna go through the gator at the steering to battery)

only thing now is basically to connect it all up .... anyone know how to get behind the radio? lol

Pull it off! :rolleyes: ;) :D

o0o0o0oo0o0o0o looking at that diagram makes it more better (as i dont wanna go through the gator at the steering to battery)

only thing now is basically to connect it all up .... anyone know how to get behind the radio? lol

I know there are some videos on YouTube showing how to remove the centre console and trim etc. I'm just hoping someone agrees with my logic for powering the subwoofer; it's easy if it would work like that!

  • Author

Yeah a confirmation would be great

N bad man Lee! :p

However, it seems I might be getting a little bit of extra 'on the side' dough soon (and no, I'm not a prostitute or anything similar!), so I might be the first to take the plunge. MIGHT.

Found the video I have watched before of interior console removal. Click here.

And an even better one.

I'm definitely going to get one of these. But as soon as I see a.successful set-up from a fellow FOC member B)

This video is pretty useless:

http://youtu.be/pCI4aWSSEsY

  • Author

a have the money right here the now!
a want to do this but so unsure haha! fek it a might order in the morning :P haha but still annoying to think like erm............... what to fully do haha

A couple of old threads from on here that might be useful.

Removing head unit

Installing a subwoofer

Am I convincing anyone to have a go yet so I can follow their guidance?.. :P

  • Author

yer blo0dy convincing me ........... BAD INFLUENCES! lol saying that a have bought worse............ bought a airbrush compressor etc ........used once and sat in closet for like 2year now lol

a have the money right here the now!

a want to do this but so unsure haha! fek it a might order in the morning :P haha but still annoying to think like erm............... what to fully do haha

Try my idea for powering the sub using only the glovebox fusebox (and somewhere to ground it; there should be somewhere in there). As to splicing into speaker cables, well, I'm working on that idea too. As long as you can find them, it should be cut and crimp / solder together and the job is a good one...

  • Author

yeah sounds good man btw forgot to say can turn bass down on speakers and have the sub up n loud?

  • Author

Also how to screw it down?

Also how to screw it down?

Strong Velcro should do...

  • Author

Actually a was thinking that!

From what I've been reading, yes, that should be the case. And strong Velcro will be all you need.

Are you going to be a guinea pig for me and Lee then?.. :D

The audio fuse appears to be 15A. Would it be possible to use a piggyback connector (with a 10A fuse in for the extension, as is required for the subwoofer), splice together both the power and remote and fit, as a single connection, to the extension? By my understanding, that would mean that the subwoofer only gets power and is told to get power (remote) when the audio system comes on. Or am I simply barking up the wrong tree here?

attachicon.gif4665883126_0946f5ced7.jpg

You could but I'd run it on 2 seperate circuits, the remote "ON" I doubt is more than 1A so you may as well use a piggyback for that instead of adding an inline fuse.

  • Author

Haha Maybe! Will sleep on it n make decision morning haha

So things I need

piggyback fuse al Google that

Anything else?

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