Heated Screen Connector

[Beaker]

Hi

New here so bear with me...can anyone tell me if the front heated screen connectors are +VE OR -VE, just repaired the broken foil connector on the drivers side today but still have no power going through it, both fuses are ok, when I test the fuse terminals with the dmm I get approx 14v on the passenger side but nothing through the drivers side terminals, checked my freshly soldered joint for continuity and all it good, but when I split the plug connector I have zero, nada, zilch reading going or coming from the harness to the plug on the dmm, anyone got any thoughts,Also, are there two heated wincscreen relays or only one ? thanks.

[troy45]

From the wiring schematic the heated screen is fed +ve power through a common relay, then splits to individual fuses feeding each side. Both sides then go common to earth.

[Beaker]

Thanks Troy, so given that the relay supplies power to both side of the screen via two fuses and only one fuse (the passenger side) has power to it via the connector pins but the drivers side fuse connector pins has no power at all could we assume that in some way the relay has gone sideways somehow, unusual I know, but just trying to think of a reason why.

[troy45]

I wouldn't say it was the relay Ryan, it has 1 feed out from it's switched contact then within the wiring loom the 2 feeds split off to the 2 fuses. See below

Bit confused why they call the relay 'Heated Screen Left' when you can see it feeds both sides of the screen.

Anyhow, a couple of things you can check - the relay R7 is in the engine bay fusebox so it's possible to remove it and switch it with say R8 which looks the same type from the schematic. Check code numbers on the relays themselves before doing this. That will then eliminate the relay as the problem or prove me a liar if the fault goes once you've done that ;)

Or, if you still don't have power feeding into the drivers side fuse you're looking at either a connection or wiring issue within the engine bay junction box. You could prove some of this out by removing the relay from it's socket then linking the constant 12V supply off pin 3 straight over to the +ve side of the fuse for the drivers side of the screen. That will at least prove the heated screen side of things is working, by already checking that you're getting 12V to at least one of the fuses this proves the control side of things from heated screen switch right through to the relay is working ok.

May also help doing more of this testing with the 2 fuses removed, that will obviously eliminate any niggles within the screen or unusual earthing problem with the downstream wiring while you work on getting 12V at both fuse feeds.

Hope that's helped without confusing you too much.

[mjt]

May also help doing more of this testing with the 2 fuses removed, that will obviously eliminate any niggles within the screen or unusual earthing problem with the downstream wiring while you work on getting 12V at both fuse feeds.

Just one point to make if trying that:- If there is a high resistance in the feed to the drivers side fuse then removing the load of the screen panel by pulling the fuse might allow a voltage to appear that would otherwise collapse when the load of the screen is applied. So if you see that happening it would show there is a high resistance, maybe due to corrosion, somewhere between the relay and the fuse.