JAMIEH290 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Hi! I have tried to use this site but, can't find a proper answer! I have a focus mk 2.5 2009 and want my 12 v cigarette lighter to only have power when, I turn my ignition on. It saves me knackering it up by plugging and unplugging every day as, it is slightly stiff. It's for my dash cam if, you're wondering why I need to use it every day. I don't like leaving it plugged in over night as, it illuminates and also drains the battery. ANY help on how I can change my feed with possible pictures, links, guides will be EXTREMLY appreciated. Thanks in advance, Jamie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richbaker22 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I'm also attempting to try this! I have been reading also and have read that the 12v socket switches off after 10mins to half an hour after the car has been locked and then becomes active again once the doors are unlocked, it could be worth checking this as this could be useful for the dashcam if this is the case, for example when you park up at tescos and go shopping it will still record for 10 mins (in case someone reverses into your car) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Tried that i think! I can confirm it does not turn off :( I'm certain I've left just a plug in and the light has stayed on all night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WES180 Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I would look to the fusebox for a piece of equipment that is ignition fed and then tap into the live supply cable before the fuse. The only problem with that is you might find that the supply cable is hidden behind the dashboard. If it is accessible then you should be able to solder a wire to it, heat shrink it and the run the wire to an in line fuse then to the 12v outlet. I would remove the original supply from the 12v outlet that is now of no use, cap the end, wrap well with insulation tape and leave tucked under the console so it can easily be reconnected in future if required. Another solution would be to remove the existing supply at the 12v outlet and fit an inline switch so you can manually isolate it. Another solution is to use a fuse box piggy back fuse supply on an ignition fed circuit and just chop the plug end off the dash cam to connect to it. That would sort your problem, be able to hide the wiring so it looks neat and then it leaves your 12v supply intact and useable for other items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auldreekie Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I hard wired my dashcam to the fusebox so that the dashcam only switches on when ignition is switched on. If your dashcam needs to be activated while your away from the car then simply connect to a live feed from fusebox. It is really quite a easy task.My dashcam is positioned behind the rearview mirror, fusebox on my Mk 1 tddi is behind the glove compartment.I bought one of these kits >> http://thedashcamstore.com/installation-kits/The usb/power cable I tucked into the headliner, just push the cable in with fingers, feed it along to to the nearside windscreen pillar and tuck in it behind. You can pull the rubber door seal (body side) down a little without removing it completely, tuck in and feed the cable round and down to about just level under the dash.Drop the glove compartment to access fusebox. feed the cable etc through to fusebox. The Add A Circuit Fuse comes ready connected, just check you order the correct type of fuse for your car, IIRC mine is ATO. Find a good earth for the black cable, I took one of the screws out that hold the fusebox to the chassis/bulkhead whatever you want to call it, connected black cable to screw and screwed it back in again. I removed fuse 55 or 57 )Can't remember which you'll need to check your car) on mine it controlled rear wiper, only works with ignition on. Put the fuse you removed into the add a circuit slot then place add a circuit to the fusebox.That's all there is to it, took me about 15 mins, longest part was putting all the junk back in the glove compartment.HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_bound Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Exactly what I did - piggyyback cable from the fuse box, up the A pillar and headliner to the r/view mirror. I ran another cable to the top of the dash to connect in the GPS and both have worked perfectly with ignition live for about a year now. That way the factory fitted 12V supply is available for other things when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoney871 Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I have produced a few patch cables for members whereby they could add a switched 12v socket to position under the dash (for dashcam etc). (I have also made a couple for a permanent hidden 12v supply where trackers have been fitted.) Use a piggyback fuse in the fuse port for either front or rear wipers and you will be fine. Just ensure that the wire side of the piggyback is on the right hand leg in the fusebox (dependant on fusebox orientation) or the second fuse will be bypassed resulting in an unprotected connection. (For reference there are mk2 / mk2.5 fusebox layout files available via my guides link under this post when viewed on a PC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 There are spade terminals on the underside of the cig socket, I ran a switched supply to a relay under the socket, and then wired the cig socket to the relay. Job done, switched central socket. For a dash cam I'd hardwire it as others have suggested (I put the relay inline as I said above, then linked both my dash cams to the switched cig socket supply as I did not want to risk overloading any output devices in the passenger electronic module) I'll post a guide if there's demand for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Okay scratch the original post! I just want to hard wire my dash in now. I have a 12v to 5V converter with a mini USB cable on one end and 2 wires on the other ready to be wired. I have a piggy back fuse on order as well. Can anyone give me an easy step by step guide including, which fuse would be enough power. The 12v to 5v doesn't tell me how many watts it runs off -.- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Okay scratch the original post! I just want to hard wire my dash in now. I have a 12v to 5V converter with a mini USB cable on one end and 2 wires on the other ready to be wired. I have a piggy back fuse on order as well. Can anyone give me an easy step by step guide including, which fuse would be enough power. The 12v to 5v doesn't tell me how many watts it runs off -.- It'll put out around 1A probably, so if we say its putting out 5W, it'll probably be using 6-8W max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auldreekie Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Okay scratch the original post! I just want to hard wire my dash in now. I have a 12v to 5V converter with a mini USB cable on one end and 2 wires on the other ready to be wired. I have a piggy back fuse on order as well. Can anyone give me an easy step by step guide including, which fuse would be enough power. The 12v to 5v doesn't tell me how many watts it runs off -.- Thought I had posted similar earlier, heres pics too http://thedashcamstore.com/advanced-dashcam-installation/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251961338549 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151380861457 I have bought both of them to make my own kit. Just need to know which fuse I need to put in which, won't be to big and be big enough to not blow straight away. Any advice? 10amp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Big enough to power the device, but small enough to blow before the cable starts melting if you have a dead short somewhere. Its mainly to protect the cable rather than the device itself (if the device blows the fuse, its probably already toast). All my 12-5V leads came with inline fuses (250V 3A) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I wired mine to fuse 116 20a foglights only live in run 20amps fuse to the piggy back and 10 amp to the cam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Right okay! Because I'm making my own kit, it doesn't come with a fuse. I can get a crimp connector easily. So you think I should start with 3A fuse and work my way up until it stops blowing them? (If it blows the fuse of course) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Right okay! Because I'm making my own kit, it doesn't come with a fuse. I can get a crimp connector easily. So you think I should start with 3A fuse and work my way up until it stops blowing them? (If it blows the fuse of course) 3A should be plenty. You'll only be getting 5V 1A out of the converter, so its going to take probably less than 1A at 12V to power it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 in the piggy back I have a 5A fuse and it works well had it in now 6 month with no problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Right okay! I'll wait till my home made kit arrives and let you know if I get stuck. I should be alright, just got to wait for it to get here from China and it says it will take about 3 weeks! Talk about teasing me :( I just want to fix it in lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 get yourself a good sd card I use a 32 bit rate series 10 and set your cam to re record over the old footage you can record sound but I don't bother with that make sure your date and time are right you don't have to have them on the screen as they will display on your footage. I think 32 g/bites is the max you can use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 get yourself a good sd card I use a 32 bit rate series 10 and set your cam to re record over the old footage you can record sound but I don't bother with that make sure your date and time are right you don't have to have them on the screen as they will display on your footage. I think 32 g/bites is the max you can use. Depends on the camera, some accept higher capacity SDXC cards. I never record sound, who wants to hear me singing?? (Or road rage for that matter... :D) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 so true :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 I have a 32GB memory card. Dash cam is all set up lol. Just having to plug it and unplug it from !Removed! lighter until I hard wire it lol. Got cable hanging down dash as well but, when I hard wire it, I'll hide it under the pillar. I'm going to go to the pound shop and buy some various fuses to test lol. I would rather blow smaller fuses than, run a bigger one than needed and burn the wire itself :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micro Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I have a 32GB memory card. Dash cam is all set up lol. Just having to plug it and unplug it from !Removed! lighter until I hard wire it lol. Got cable hanging down dash as well but, when I hard wire it, I'll hide it under the pillar. I'm going to go to the pound shop and buy some various fuses to test lol. I would rather blow smaller fuses than, run a bigger one than needed and burn the wire itself :( The wire will support the devices normal use - the fuse is to protect against faults either in wiring or the device. A 3-5A fuse will be fine (I've got a 5A fuse protecting my ignition switched cable, 1mm² single core). 3-5A would be fine (the converters cable before carrying 12V is fairly short anyway - the 5V cable would be protected by the circuitry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Do you have a link where, I can buy some fuses which, you think will be ok? Just want to make sure I get the right type of fuse lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIEH290 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP BTW :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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