Streetka Nightmare

[Omendata]

I just bought my Streetka (or Pregnant Rollerskate as I call it!!!) in September last year and without doubt its one of the worst deals I ever made on a car - £800 it cost for 2003 Streetka 1.6 50k miles which i thought was not a bad deal but was expecting some issues even though the seller assured me there was nothing wrong with it.

First off the radio wont come on sometimes - this is caused by the facia not fitting properly once the radio has been removed - the security dongle you remove wont make perfect contact with the brass contacts when you plug it back in so its a simple case of pushing the radio facia back in to engage properly with the clips.

Right out of the box i needed to fit a new lambda sensor as the fuel economy was bad real bad.

Thank goodness for my OBD diagnostics tools.

Even so the fuel usage of the Streetka is quite simply mental - I am getting 200 miles from a full tank - these cars just suck fuel like there is no tomorrow - If i had known that i wouldnt have bought one!

Then we have the notorious sticking door handles which break if forced - even taking the door apart and putting some grease on it hasnt fixed it.

Not resolved yet is the pool of water in the drivers side under the pedals - Pollen filter?

I have never seen such a cramped engine to work in.

Then i found that the brake pads on the driver side had separated from the backplate so new pads all round.

Removing the rear brake shoes was a nightmare - I spent an hour trying to figure out how to remove the hub.

Then one of the lights blew which lead me to find out how difficult it is to replace a simple light bulb.

Then there are the electrics - all of the lights are fogged suggesting water ingress past the seals - how difficult should it be to get access to the light cluster - on my old Rover 820si it was plug and play - on these you need to remove the wheel.

Now I have a non start problem - Obd gave me an error indicating the MAP sensor - try to remove that easily without removing the entire exhaust manifold - i managed it but what a nightmare - cleaned it up and all was well for a week - now the car won start at all.

Before cleaning the map sensor i would drive somewhere then come back and it wouldnt start - Due to the heat i presume!

Once i left it for an hour it would start - so i took the MAP sensor out and cleaned it with acetone - worked a treat and the car ran for a week without a single problem.

Now , well it wont start at all.

I wont mention the alarm going off at all odd occasions - apparently its caused by the hood sensor.

There is more but i digress - does anyone have any idea how to disable the alarm or to fix the problem - is it a replacement sensor or can it be repaired.

I am a computer guy so in depth is fine as I managed to disable my Rover 820si immobiliser when even the manufacturer said it couldnt be done.

I like a challenge!!!

Then there is getting it to start but thats another issue which i need to resolve tomorrow - from what i hear it could be the fuel pump blowing a fuse 19.

I am going to replace the MAP sensor first anyway as it was the original error on the ECU OBD diagnostics.

If I wasnt unemployed and have plenty of time on my hands I think I would have shoved this over the edge of a cliff.

[andybadcats]

Firstly only clean Map sensor with Halfords electrical switch cleaner/contact cleaner or equivalent. Acetone will kill it for good. The actual sensor must not be touched only sprayed.
On eBay Manifold air pressure sensors new equivalents are about £22.
On Street ka’s the Map sensor is also a temp sensor and is very very important. This sensor is also connected to the smart charge circuit and can cause alternator ebu code errors if dirty. Next to this sensor is the ICV (idle control valve), remove it and clean with carb cleaner holding it upright by loom when spraying. Then cotton buds to clean off gunk, there will be lots!
My Street Ka 2005 fuel was about 210 miles per tank with both above working correctly its nearly 300 miles per tank. Well worth the trouble.
Plus it accelerates so much better now.
Soft top Hood sensors are 2 micro switches either side of hood assembly panel that always get bent. Just straighten them and alarm should stop going off. There is also another alarm bonnet sensor that gets a bit corroded top right of engine bay above battery in a rubber shroud, this can cause errors.

Don’t push her off a cliff, these cars are great fun to drive, good bodywork and are still babe magnets. Their cornering at speed is amazing. OK good luck mate.

[Omendata]

Great info.

Eric the carguy advised cleaning the map sensor with acetone as thats what is in switch cleaner apparently but i bought a second hand one from eBay and will fit it and see

if the fault is gone for good as i am scared to drive it anywhere and park it and come back and it not start.

The strange thing is that when the car has cooled down after an hour or so it starts again so I was thinking maybe a temp sensor somewhere but the last obd error was MAP sensor.

I hate intermittent faults they are a nightmare to pinpoint but thanks to OBD it can make things easier.

Funny thing is whenever i detach the air assembly to get at the map sensor and clean it the car starts again - it may even be the crankshaft sensor which is below

the map sensor as i cleaned that as well as i was advised it can get gunked up and rusty.

Car has been working today and got the alarm fixed - apparently a little red connector had popped out of the loom that leads to the sunroof boot lid.

Thanks for the info very useful you seem to know your stuff!

Yeah I can concur on the cornering its almost as good as my Dutton Phaeton S3.

IE Bit like a Go-cart -> or Pregnant Rollerskate as my girlfriend calls it lol

I recently replaced the O2 Sensor as the car was a bit jittery and would stutter now and again but thanks to OBD it detected the faulty sensor in the engine compartment and it fixed all the problems but i now have a rather unusual reading - SHRTFT 12 - 99.21% - Its the short term Fuel Trim - Any ideas - Secondary O2 Sensor? Some forums indicate it might be the CAT? Or might this be the MAP sensor - will find out when i swap it over anyway!

The car is clear of any OBD errors so will have to do a bit of digging to find out why the engine is trimming the fuel.

Here is the full diagnosis from the OBD handheld!

OBD Parameter - Car (Current):-

Fuel Sys1 – 0 CL (Closed Loop)

Fuel Sys2 - 0

Calc Load – 0.00%

Coolant Temp – 87 Degrees C

STFT B1 - 0%

LTFT B1 – 3.9%

M.A.P. - 97Kpa

Eng Speed – 0.00Rpm

Veh Speed – 0.00Km/h

Spark Adv – 63.5BTDC

I.A.T. – 24.0 Degrees C

TPS – 23.13%

O2SL - 11 12

02S 11 – 0.160V

SHRTFT 11 – 0.00%

O2S 12 – 0.270V

SHRTFT 12 – 99.21%

OBDSUP = EOBD

MIL_DIST - 0km

Thanks for the help so far - I really would like 300 miles on a full tank - good to know as there must still be something awry with my engine or Ecu?

[andybadcats]

Did you clean the I C V with valve cleaner.

On start up engine should be 1000 revs slowly reducing to 850. It should reduce within 3 minutes. If not clean I C V. Also Check smart Alternator plug at point where it connectors with alternator. Clip it off and on this cleans it usually.

Go to fuse box both top and lower one under drivers footwell and remove every fuse separately. Clean with cotton bud and isopropyl alcohol or similar. Some of my fuses passed continuity but still needed a clean.

To get much better access to map and icv remove plastic manifold. It's a 15. Minute job but makes life so much easier. I've got the Ford manual and it does recommended this procedure. Will post pictures later.

[andybadcats]

Your better off sometimes getting new ones.

[Omendata]

I am unemployed so needs must - have to buy cheap parts.

Cant afford new!

Cleaned Throttle Body but no not cleaned ICV.

Car has no problems with idling.

Will be doing this weekend so fingers crossed MAP sensor replacement works.

There are quite a few sensors under the manifold - temp sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor.

It might be the crank sensor but as it happens only after the car is hot and has been driven it suggests temp sensor of some sort so

hoping its just the MAP sensor causing the issue.

From what I have gathered now the obd reading that was suspicious (SHRTFT 12 – 99.21%) does seem to point to either air leak or map sensor so going to do the old

cigar smoke test to find any leaks as well but this post here seems to indicate MAF/MAP Issue.

http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f18/1999-318ise-e46-p0170-fault-code-t19406-print/

From what I have seen on Ford Youtube videos an obscure problem with the coolant temp sensor might be the issue.

Sadly I cant find a Streetka manual anywhere.

[Omendata]

You were right about the icv - i presume this is the icv.

Very dirty but now cleaned up.

Turns out the map sensor i bought fits KA but not Streetka so have to buy a new one.

Problem is worse though as i have now noticed the fuel pump isnt ticking over when ignition is switched on.

I think this actually may have been the issue all along but i just didnt cotton on so it mau either be a intermiitent

faulty relay , damaged wire or failing fuel pump which has fully failed now,.

Cleaned all fuses and gave them a light sanding as recommended.

Looks quite a big job removing the fuel tank especially now i cant move the car.

Pumping some Bradex easy start into the open air manifold does get it started then putters out as there is no fuel coming out of the injection rail feeds.

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

That cliff is looking very tempting!

[Zippyt]

Did you manage to fix your ka in the end? Looking at your scanner results it looks like it was ign on right? As the map was 97kpa, stft  0%, ltft 3.9% etc would indicate that as perfect! If you start the engine then you'll see the real picture of what is happening with your car...did changing the map work?

I have similar issue map showing 26-28 on idle, Stft -2 to 5, Ltft 25%, 02 bank 1, 0-8mv, 02 bank 2, 0-12mv after cat warmed up. Noticed that when fan kicks in map rises to perfect 31kpa at idle so thinking it's the map myself? Did you take off the intake manifold to get to it & icv valve or leave it in & struggle. If so did you have to replace the gaskets?

Cheers