TomsFocus Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Evening, I'm usually in the Focus and Fiesta forums lol, don't really do Mondeos! However my Dad says his is getting a bit slow to start and could do with a service - he's owned it at least 4 years without one lol. Is it even worth doing after all this time? I can't see a service helping the slow start? Would think the battery is probably on the way out again myself. Worth noting it still drives fine apparently! If it is worth doing, how easy are the spark plugs on these? Had to remove the manifold on my mates Saab V6 for them so hope they're not that involved. Also is it worth doing the fuel filter, I know they last a lot longer than diesel ones. He is on a very tight budget so cheap as possible would be ideal but no point doing half a job. Cheers Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrnobody Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Best to remove the top part of the inlet manifold to get at the spark plugs at the back,its a hard job to do with it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOF Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I'd regard oil and filter as important. I have looked at the spark plugs, but didn't actually do them as they look a bit difficult (thought to myself - they are a decent brand of spark plugs, they ought to last this long - don't know whether that's true, or not). Now, if the engine cranks slowly, the battery is probably on its way out, although it could also be wiring. If the engine cranks at a reasonable speed, but it still doesn't start well, it is likely to be something else. They are quite sensitive to oil, and, given the previous comment, new oil (of the right spec!) may help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Don't seem overly sensitive to oil if it can go 4+ years without a change lol. If I did that on my 1.6TDCi it'd just be a solid lump of carbon by now! Is it easy to remove the top part of the manifold? And is there a gasket there that would need replacing? I'm not familiar with this engine at all and we don't live overly close so I can't just physically check unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6 Lover Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Its relatively easy removing the inlet manifold although its possible to replace sparkies with it in place...you can just about get at rear sparkies (2.5 v6 not 3.0v6) but you need a wobble bar extension to reach...the gaskets are heavy duty items and can be re-used 2 or 3 times,I think ford anticipated this as on the 3.0 v6 the inlet has to come of for sparkplug services... How many miles has your dad done since its last oil..4 years is quiet a while but these are tough engines and don't go wrong much from what I know..I've had v Sixer's for 10 years now without any issues... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Its relatively easy removing the inlet manifold although its possible to replace sparkies with it in place...you can just about get at rear sparkies (2.5 v6 not 3.0v6) but you need a wobble bar extension to reach...the gaskets are heavy duty items and can be re-used 2 or 3 times,I think ford anticipated this as on the 3.0 v6 the inlet has to come of for sparkplug services... How many miles has your dad done since its last oil..4 years is quiet a while but these are tough engines and don't go wrong much from what I know..I've had v Sixer's for 10 years now without any issues... Good to know, thanks. :) I don't know how many miles he's done tbh, he bought it as a high miler but doesn't keep track of mileage like I do, it's up around 180k now iirc! It's not so much the amount of miles in his case but the fact he does lots of short town traffic drives per day (laziness lol!) which obviously isn't great for engines! It has been reliable though. In that 4 years the only engine fault was a split vac pipe...which made it lean on one bank and drive like crap...which he ignored for about a year!! I also replaced the battery about 3 years ago as it died completely. Oh and a few stupidly overpriced tyres due to a weird size and such a low profile that they pick up nails for fun lol (Ghia 17s). Apart from the fuel consumption it's been surprisingly cheap so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOF Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Don't seem overly sensitive to oil if it can go 4+ years without a change lol. If I did that on my 1.6TDCi it'd just be a solid lump of carbon by now! Well, they are, but not in the way that you think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Haha, I'm guessing it's more of a wear issue than a carbon issue. My 1.9 PD Golf died through longlife servicing so I've seen the damage a lack of lube can do. :( I just thought the damage would already be done by now with so long between servicing?Which oil do they take, and how many litres? I've seen the NGK plugs alone are £30 for 6! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6 Lover Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 oil grade to use 5w/30 or 5w/40 you can even use 10w/40 and about 5.7 litres..if the car is just pootling around then there probably ain't any damage done as you would probably hear it if it was...on the mondeo ST forum they swear by keeping the oil clean on the V6 engine 2.5 &3.0...advice I've always followed since owning these beasties..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOF Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 I have topped up (probably a litre or less) the standard oil with a synth 5w/40, which according to the owner handbook you are allowed to do, and then mine wouldn't cold start (cold start in the cold, it would cold start in temperatures above say ~5C). It isn't viscous drag slowing crank speed (which everyone believes it 'must be') but tappet pump up (and repeated attempts to start it it probably cost me a starter motor). That said, the 5W/40 did look appreciably thicker than the 5W/30 at ordinary ambient temps when pouring, but it was a quality 5w/40 oil...probably it was at the thickest end for 5w oils, but still... Once started, it was fine because you only needed to get a few degrees into the oil, and everything was happy again. (Sometimes it would cough in to life on, say, four or five cylinders, but after 30 seconds the oil would be warm enough for all six to play, and everything was fine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Well I don't want any starting issues at all, he works nights so it's often started in freezing temps, so are we saying 5/30 is best there? So oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs - anything else worth doing? Also, just out of interest, is it a cam chain on this engine? If its a belt must be well overdue by now lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6 Lover Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Chains my good man.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Ah, that's a relief!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6 Lover Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 One of the things I liked when I got my first V6 mondy was the chains being fine for a least 150k but good for 300k...a guy had one of these mk2s with 240k and all well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Crikey, that's good!! Though I do wonder how much it costs in fuel to get a ~20mpg petrol to that mileage, may've been better off with a diesel lol. One more question while I'm here, is the pollen filter standard or a carbon one? Will ask if he wants that changed at the same time. Its a Ghia X with climate so guessing it'll be carbon one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOF Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Well I don't want any starting issues at all, he works nights so it's often started in freezing temps, so are we saying 5/30 is best there? So oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs - anything else worth doing? Stick to the standard Ford-spec oil (whether it is Ford-branded or Castrol Magnatec or Mobil FE 3000) would be my advice. And, don't leave it so long next time... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6 Lover Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Tom..I replaced mine a year or so ago..don't think its charcoal though..crossland filter no c40191p ...Ford 1119613..got this at local motor factors... Make sure you get a nice clean fit when putting the scuttle panel back in situ....this can cause water ingress if not bang on...:) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6 Lover Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Apologies for the poor quality photo..meant to show how dirty the old cabin filter was...stupid phone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Ford UK Shop
Sponsored Ad
Name: eBay
Ford Model: FordUK Shop
Ford Year: 2024
Latest Deals
Ford UK Shop for genuine Ford parts & accessoriesDisclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via the club
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.