pagz99 Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hi all, Going to attempt to install this bad boy in the Fiesta this weekend in order to regain heating in the cabin! (I've had to stop using the car it's so cold!). From what I understand it is a very good idea to drain the coolant out first so that the pipes and valve aren't full of coolant when you take them off. Is it enough to disconnect the bottom rad hose, empty coolant into a container etc and then flush through with a garden hose, or should I take the engine block drain plug out too? Then to refill, pour in the coolant expansion tank and squeeze hoses to make sure there's no air locks? I've found TK42138's channel on Youtube very helpful https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoxdxmHrbiFU2FXe6as-dKw as he has video'd most stages of the process but just want to make sure I'm aware of everything I need to be before I empty my system of coolant and get into any difficulties filling it back up again! I can take pics of my process too if people would be interested in a visual step by step? Cheers Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L666JER Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 No need to take the hose off. There is a drain plug at the bottom of the rad. I've done a few of these HCV's now they're very simple to do just unplug the wiring and back off the clips that hold the 4 pipes on then pull them off. Last couple I didn't bother draining the coolant but that does mean you get coolant all over the engine. It is best to drain it and won't do any harm to have a full change. Very simple to do just the hose clips can be a bit of a pain, don't know why ford didn't use normal jubilee clips. When refilling coolant pour in slowly then run the car for 15 minutes with heaters on full and the lid off the expansion tank that will bleed the system, it is worth giving all the hoses a squeeze just to be sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagz99 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Thanks L666JER, will have a look for the drain plug on the rad and use that. I'm definitely going to flush the system as I had a look in the expansion tank and the liquid was a rusty brown, not red.. urgh! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L666JER Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Just use a 2p piece to open the plug. Much easier than messing with hoses. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagz99 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Just took the plug out and was greeting with a rusty splash and then nothing... not exactly 5 litres worth here! There must be a blockage somewhere? Should I resort to plan B and take the hoses off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONDEO TXS 2.2 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L666JER Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Did you take the cap off the header tank? That can stop it from flowing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GingerFlame Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 You need to make sure the expansion tank lid is off www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk - approved resellers of the Highest quality detailing & Valeting supplies 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagz99 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Doh! Expansion tank lid was still on. Took it off and it started flowing properly! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L666JER Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Haha its similar to how a coffee cup works. Without the little pin hole in the top you wouldn't be able to drink from them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagz99 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Right, coolant is drained but now I am stuck getting the bulkhead cover off to get at the HCV. There are 3 plastic screws (WHY?!) which I've tried with a variety of screwdrivers and can't get them off. I managed to get one off by getting a pair of pliers underneath them and gripping the shaft but there's no room to manoeuvre pliers behind the others as they are right against the side of the car/blocked by engine components. Any tips?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L666JER Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Those screws are a pain. They need pressure on them from behind for them to unscrew I have found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagz99 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 I brute forced one of them out and snapped a bit of the plastic cover but no biggie.. the other came out with a wrench holding the back of it to get grip and the third I gave up on but managed to hinge the bulkhead cover enough to get at the HCV. The old valve is all off now, but one of the plastic pipe connectors on the old valve snapped off and is stuck in the hose! Gahhhhh!!! Any attempt to pull it out with pliers just brings out little chips of black plastic, the whole thing isn't strong enough to pull out this way.. I saw a post on Honest John about changing HCVs that said it is 20 minutes work. I've been at this for over 3 hours now!! Grrr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagz99 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Success!! Almost 7 hours of fiddling and we now have heat back in the cabin, plus lots of lovely fresh coolant and a new thermostat. Everything looks good so far, will take out for a test drive later and hope that goes well. Thanks everyone for your input. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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