Ka brake pedal noise

[kath273272]

I bought a brand new 2015 Ka just over a week ago and there's a loud clunking noise coming from the passenger side when I release the brake pedal quickly.

I've had it back to the dealership twice and they've said that this is a noise that all Ka's make and there's nothing they can do. 

The car I test drove didn't have this problem and it was never pointed out to me that this would be an issue, otherwise I would never have bought the car.

Does anyone else have this problem with their Ka?

[Omendata]

In this case the garage is right , I have heard it is a common KA fault!

I presume its the front not the back its coming from?

Could be a warped disc or bush or some say it can be caused by the brake pipe moving if its not connected properly but as its a common fault no one seems to know!

Maybe Delboy or one of the other members on here who are more knowledgeable about the Ordinary KA can answer the question?

I have had nothing but problems with my Streetka - If I were you I would have bought a Toyota YARIS!

This list comes from Honest John

Flaking paint. Check for rust in the door sills and rear wings. Numerous reports of massive structural corrosion of driver's door sills of early Kas leading to MOT failure. 
Check that any previous accident damage was repaired under Ford's 6 year no perforation warranty. 

Suspension damage from kerbing. Front suspension bushes have been prone to wear so if the front suspension clonks this is probably why. 

Number of reports of steering rack failure both of early non-PAS racks and of power assisted racks. The part alone is £500, plus £200 fitting. Steering racks continuing to fail, even on 4 year old 2003 Kas in early 2007. Possible cause: water ingress to rack prior to assembly of car.

Hidden damage underneath deformable ends. 

Kids sweets, etc., stuck to carpet and seats. 

Aircon much better than an aftermarket sunroof, but can develop problems (see Ka Sun Collection in 'Whats Good'). 

Reports of reverse gear selector forks shearing. 

Motorised heater valves fail, but cheap to replace. 

Beware of emulsified oil under oil filler cap. If the engine is tappety it probably needs a new set of cam followers, which isn't a quick and easy job on a pushrod engine. Original 59bhp Endura E 1.3 pushrod engine very long in the tooth, apt to emulsify oil, block oilways and develop rocker shaft trouble. Non case-hardened cam followers wear away making engine very tappety.

Spark plugs of original ohv iron block and head engine may either have corroded into the head or been over tightened (taper fit) which means head removal to drill them out. Should be removed every year, coppergreased and refitted, but since this could snap them they are not usually touched. 

Stalling problem usually due to dirty idle control valve. Best replaced. Replacing standard front pads with uprated aftermarket items, such as EBC pads greatly improves feel, stopping distances and most importantly reduces brake fade under heavy braking.

Sumps of old 1.3 pushrod engines rust through.

New problems emerging with 70bhp ohc Ka are water filling plenum chamber and swamping electrics (probably blocked drains, but this happens on new Kas) and squealing from the PAS due to an undersized PAS Fluid reservoir. Ford dealers will replace this with a bigger one if asked. The solution is NOT to overfill the original PAS reservoir. 

The pins which hold the foot pedals in place may fall out, leaving the driver unable to brake or declutch.

If a Ka you own or are considering buying runs roughly, the following possibilities could be the reason:-
Pushrod wear, where unhardened push rods have been installed. Poor cylinder bock cleaning while machining (leaving burrs). And unexpected wear of correctly hardened push rod cups traced to problems with the adjustment screws. (Ford has now eradicated these problems for new production.) 

Ka 2s and Ka 3s can suffer from corrosion of the door wiring loom connectors, leading to electric window and central locking failures. Cost of replacing the wiring can amount to £300 for parts plus up to a full day's labour. Older high spec Kas (W reg and earlier) suffer failure of the door mirror motors due to water ingress. 

Overtightening the pollen filter apparently cracks the windscreen. 

If the heater stops working the solenoid valve situated on the bulkhead is usually responsible. 
Recalls
1998 Kas with ABS (Mar '98-Sep '98): Brake master cylinder may fail. 2000: TSB issued to replacethrottle position sensor and connector if revs fail to decrease on lift off when upchanging. TSB issued advising dealers to use copper grease on spark plugs to aid removal. Technical service Bulletin (TSB) 095/200 entitled 'Engine Idle Flare during Gear Changes' involves replacement of throttle position sensor (FPS) and wiring to it. Looks as though it is simply replaced and the wires splied to the existing loom. Time taken/charge should be 0.3 hours. Rumours of Summer 2001 TSB over problems with a/c pump. Stage 1 tighten auxilary belt. Stage 2 if that does not work replace pump. 22-7-2002: 31,000 UK market Kas built Jan-June 2002 recalled because front brake hose retaining clamp could become loose leading to pipe fouling on wheel and loss of brake fluid. 31,606 Kas affected.
 

[MONDEO TXS 2.2]

4 minutes ago, Omendata said:

In this case the garage is right , I have heard it is a common KA fault!

I presume its the front not the back its coming from?

Could be a warped disc or bush but as its a common fault no one seems to know!

If I were you I would have bought a Toyota YARIS!

This list comes from Honest John

Flaking paint. Check for rust in the door sills and rear wings. Numerous reports of massive structural corrosion of driver's door sills of early Kas leading to MOT failure. 
Check that any previous accident damage was repaired under Ford's 6 year no perforation warranty. 

Suspension damage from kerbing. Front suspension bushes have been prone to wear so if the front suspension clonks this is probably why. 

Number of reports of steering rack failure both of early non-PAS racks and of power assisted racks. The part alone is £500, plus £200 fitting. Steering racks continuing to fail, even on 4 year old 2003 Kas in early 2007. Possible cause: water ingress to rack prior to assembly of car.

Hidden damage underneath deformable ends. 

Kids sweets, etc., stuck to carpet and seats. 

Aircon much better than an aftermarket sunroof, but can develop problems (see Ka Sun Collection in 'Whats Good'). 

Reports of reverse gear selector forks shearing. 

Motorised heater valves fail, but cheap to replace. 

Beware of emulsified oil under oil filler cap. If the engine is tappety it probably needs a new set of cam followers, which isn't a quick and easy job on a pushrod engine. Original 59bhp Endura E 1.3 pushrod engine very long in the tooth, apt to emulsify oil, block oilways and develop rocker shaft trouble. Non case-hardened cam followers wear away making engine very tappety.

Spark plugs of original ohv iron block and head engine may either have corroded into the head or been over tightened (taper fit) which means head removal to drill them out. Should be removed every year, coppergreased and refitted, but since this could snap them they are not usually touched. 

Stalling problem usually due to dirty idle control valve. Best replaced. Replacing standard front pads with uprated aftermarket items, such as EBC pads greatly improves feel, stopping distances and most importantly reduces brake fade under heavy braking.

Sumps of old 1.3 pushrod engines rust through.

New problems emerging with 70bhp ohc Ka are water filling plenum chamber and swamping electrics (probably blocked drains, but this happens on new Kas) and squealing from the PAS due to an undersized PAS Fluid reservoir. Ford dealers will replace this with a bigger one if asked. The solution is NOT to overfill the original PAS reservoir. 

The pins which hold the foot pedals in place may fall out, leaving the driver unable to brake or declutch.

If a Ka you own or are considering buying runs roughly, the following possibilities could be the reason:-
Pushrod wear, where unhardened push rods have been installed. Poor cylinder bock cleaning while machining (leaving burrs). And unexpected wear of correctly hardened push rod cups traced to problems with the adjustment screws. (Ford has now eradicated these problems for new production.) 

Ka 2s and Ka 3s can suffer from corrosion of the door wiring loom connectors, leading to electric window and central locking failures. Cost of replacing the wiring can amount to £300 for parts plus up to a full day's labour. Older high spec Kas (W reg and earlier) suffer failure of the door mirror motors due to water ingress. 

Overtightening the pollen filter apparently cracks the windscreen. 

If the heater stops working the solenoid valve situated on the bulkhead is usually responsible. 
Recalls
1998 Kas with ABS (Mar '98-Sep '98): Brake master cylinder may fail. 2000: TSB issued to replacethrottle position sensor and connector if revs fail to decrease on lift off when upchanging. TSB issued advising dealers to use copper grease on spark plugs to aid removal. Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 095/200 entitled 'Engine Idle Flare during Gear Changes' involves replacement of throttle position sensor (FPS) and wiring to it. Looks as though it is simply replaced and the wires splied to the existing loom. Time taken/charge should be 0.3 hours. Rumours of Summer 2001 TSB over problems with a/c pump. Stage 1 tighten auxilary belt. Stage 2 if that does not work replace pump. 22-7-2002: 31,000 UK market Kas built Jan-June 2002 recalled because front brake hose retaining clamp could become loose leading to pipe fouling on wheel and loss of brake fluid. 31,606 Kas affected.
 

& the really bad ones are worse . . . . .

Too much FIAT in them

[Omendata]

http://www.fixafordcar.co.uk/ka_list.htm

 

[delboy]

my daughter has a 2010  ka and it does the same with the clunk noise. have checked it and its how it is as said befor too much fiat in the car. not that well refined i dont think

otherwise a good car.