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1.6 tdci DPF delete.... Decisions.... Please help


Skunner2k4
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I need some recommendations. 

My 2010 Ford Focus 1.6 tdci is due its 6th year 75k mile service with dpf fluid top up. 

Now I found a company which will remove dpf and remap for £550.

Saving a £100 on dpf fluid top up plus any problems with the dpf itself as they have a lifespan of 75k.

There's nothing wrong with it at the moment but as a precautionary measure is it worth doing? As i need reliability. 

Text from garage "Stock your running 107bhp and 192ft/lb's, we can achieve for you 148bhp and 243ft/lb's of torque. This is for a stage 1 remap on your vehicle that is designed for use with standard components and within all mechanical tolerances. 

As a natural consequence of more torque you will also see better fuel economy depending on how you drive you could see upto 7mpg better". 

Many thanks

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just make sure you check the company out - look for reviews on them. if they are good then you will find lots of reviews.

if the power is increased it will probably place stress on your clutch for the extra torque and at 75k it probably will need replacing soon.

hopefully others on here will advise son.

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I think its quite unlikely you will get as high as 148 without replacing some other parts, I think the average is probably around 130-140, 150+ on this engine might require a bit more effort, the torque is well over 300nm, that is quite a bit! ive read that the stock box and clutch is rated up to a 280/300, its something to consider at the very least.

As for the DPF, as that fills up it increases back pressure, this increases the work load on the engine introducing mechanical wear, it can reduce the effectiveness of the turbo resulting in poor performance and it can have a negative effect on the turbo itself resulting in damaged seals and potential turbo failure, boom! But whilst your at it, you should look in to the other biggest killer of engines the EGR valve.

Full DPFs = BAD

EGR = BAD

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Will they be giving you a dyno printout of that power figure?  As above, I'll be surprised if they do make that power & torque safely on an otherwise standard DV6.

Clutch should be fine with the remap, mine hasn't slipped once since the map and I'm a bugger for riding it instead of using the handbrake or dropping a gear lol.

You're unlikely to see better mpg.

 

Removing it is up to you, obviously there are cons such as it being illegal, and pros such as more power.  Reliability risk could be just as bad if it's a poor map.  Insurance increase may or may not be too much depending on the insurer.  Also £550 seems quite high to me, is that the going rate these days? 

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Seems too torquey to be safe to me in all honesty, the injectors aren't that good on them...  They'll be out of their depth and would have to up the rail pressure a fair bit putting strain on the pump.  Possibly also causing boost spikes putting strain on the turbo...

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Hi there,  I have the same model, engine and year as your Focus,  and there is no fluid top up required on mine..  Also I am up to 120000 miles without dpf or turbo issues (hopefully I won't regret saying that) my egr has been blanked for 3 years so that may have helped.  Personally I wouldn't hesitate to delete the dpf and egr and remap, as long as I could trust the guys doing it..  -There lies your real problem, if they do it wrong then you could hardly take legal action.  Best regards, Martin 

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Insurance, extra wear and tear and gains are not what i am worried about, whether i should delete dpf now instead of topping up fluid and later replacing the dpf. Breaking down into limp mode on the way to work (which i cannot afford to do or let dowb clients)  after spending £400 on service plus top up and then spending further 1000 or so doing dpf replacement  is what im more worried about. Thanks guys anyway

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the DPF will fail and it will fail with little to no warning, unless you can identify when the car does active regens, the frequency of these will help you understand whats going on,  at some point however the ECU will say enough is enough and will shove it in to limp, if you have reached  a point where the car cant physically get up to temp because of backpressure then your screwed, a forced regen can help clean down soot build up but this doesn't fix the ash problem. 

you need to remember, even with regens active, passive or forced, they don't remove the problem, they limit it  by reducing soot down to smaller ash but eventually ash will build up and it will block the DPF, there is no magic cure.

The Ceramic DPF mpr1956 has is an updated DPF that gets up to temp a lot quicker meaning it burns off soot a lot easier, it does however have the same problem that it will fill up with ash and will need replacing.

any DPF is a ticking bomb

 

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Ive had a full dpf & egr delete by mapping them both out along with a best of both Eco / performance map.

mines the 1.6 tdci 109 Hp model, it's remapped to 135hp,. ( that's pretty much as far as there happy going too )

Dpf itself is still in situe , although I've hollowed it out & welded it back up  

my Focus is the 7 speed model & now currently gets just over 60 to the gallon  

 

 

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On 2/6/2016 at 0:58 AM, S40Un said:

Ive had a full dpf & egr delete by mapping them both out along with a best of both Eco / performance map.

mines the 1.6 tdci 109 Hp model, it's remapped to 135hp,. ( that's pretty much as far as there happy going too )

Dpf itself is still in situe , although I've hollowed it out & welded it back up  

my focus is the 7 speed model & now currently gets just over 60 to the gallon  

 

 

Same here with dpf and egr deleted plus remap and can't praise it highly enough - better drive and better mpgs.  Can't remember the hp or torque values but it was in the same ballpark I think.  Wasn't as expensive as £550, more like £300 I think, but that was a couple of years ago from a good reputable specialist near Bristol.

 

 

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2 hours ago, south_bound said:

Same here with dpf and egr deleted plus remap and can't praise it highly enough - better drive and better mpgs.  Can't remember the hp or torque values but it was in the same ballpark I think.  Wasn't as expensive as £550, more like £300 I think, but that was a couple of years ago from a good reputable specialist near Bristol.

 

 

Mine cost £199 from a reputable mapper in Cambridgeshire 

 

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  • 3 years later...

Hi, I've got a 62 plate Focus Titanium with 64000 miles on it. If I take the dpf off, cut it open, gut the internals, reweld back up, grind the welds smooth.. do I need to do anything else like software/ECU, it will run happily along as normal? Where do I cut into the dpf?I'm looking at the Spider Anachrid on the fly box at a later date.

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Yes you will need a remap to delete it from the system - if you asking these questions I suggest you talk to a well respected specialist.

As per Stoney's comment look into the legal side of it as well.  I'm sure some botch jobs have been picked up and failed MOTs but tbh I haven'y heard of any specific cases directly for properly deleted systems, but be aware of that risk before going any further.

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Turns out my old car, is still going strong, it passed its MOT just the other day, it may or may not have had some modifications on the DPF 🙄

If it were modified, i doubt the new owner would have spent the money to not only install a new DPF but also map it back in again, so all that being the case, it wouldnt appear to have failed any MOTs over the last 3

that being said. Its a risk and if that car did have some mods on the DPF, it probably would have contributed to me getting rid of that car in the first place. 

Also worth noting, that Tom on here had a hell of a time replacing the DPF with new one, probably easier to get it taken out and cleaned in one of those sonic baths

 

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I'm gonna weigh in here. From mechanics point of view. DPFs have gotten a lot better over the years. I've seen vehicles make 150k on original for no issues if used enough.
Now, as for getting rid of it. If the dpf has a single weld mark on it that looks suspicious. It's an instant mot fail. HOWEVER if the dpf has been cut open to clean it and welded back together this is fine. So make sure when you "clean" the dpf you tell you tester prior to inspection.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk

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11 hours ago, Dee_82 said:

Also worth noting, that Tom on here had a hell of a time replacing the DPF with new one, probably easier to get it taken out and cleaned in one of those sonic baths

That was one of those archaic Eolys DPF's though...  The latest post on this thread was from someone with a Mk3, so a cDPF…  I wouldn't dream of removing it personally.  They work fine now, I had no DPF issues in 6 months of my Mk3...all the other issues made up for it on that car haha!  My old Mk2.5 is due MOT later this month so will be interesting to see if that passes again.  I know it's had a set of injectors since I sold it but don't know if the DPF was ever reinstated, though I find it pretty unlikely.

My Golf's on 106k with the original DPF, for the last 18 months it's been stuck with me and really only used for sub 10 minute trips bar a 30 minute trip to Nans and back once a week.  It regens every 10-14 days but I've still never seen the DPF light or failed so many regens that it's needed a forced one. For the record, I have failed 5 regens in a row and it's still regen'd fine the next time I went on a longer trip.  It'll even regen perfectly fine at 30mph in town as long as it's not all stop start.  The gear indicator shows the correct gear to do this in which is useful and sadly lacking on the Mk3 Focus.  Oh yeah, mine has also had the dreaded emissions fix that works the EGR overtime as well! :laugh: 

Can't see any reason to remove a working cDPF nowadays myself.  It doesn't even give you any noticeable power or torque benefit on a S1, they can be mapped just as well with it still in the system as long as the mapper knows what they're doing.

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Hi.. I did a static regeneration on my 62 plate Titanium with 64000 miles on my drive today for the first time since I bought the car recently. Tunnelratelectronics elm with FORScan... engine revs at approx 2600 rpm for 50mins then says 100% complete. I understand this doesn't fix the dpf filling up with soot just burns it down a little.

I have a stainless plate ready to blank off the egr.. when I fit it, should I expect an eml light to come up on the cluster display? Will my car still run normally or will it go into limp mode straight away? I can delete the egr fault code with forscan for now until I can afford a remap to remove the egr/dpf from the ECU once I gut the internals of the dpf?

 

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