Living Room Project

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That's coming along nicely Lenny:smile:

On 17/07/2016 at 9:12 AM, Lenny said:

I was reluctant to fit standard dimmable downlights as they use halogen bulbs and cost an absolute fortune to run on electricity also replacing bulbs can become a quarterly choir as they don't last very long.

I had those in my last house in the kitchen, if they had lasted quarterly that would've been something of an improvement.:unsure:

It was more of fortnightly to three weekly event changing the expired halogens:sad:

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I dont see how the downlight covers fit over the lights you have posted due to the horizontal shape of the green bit?

Keep up the awesome work man :wink:

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On Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at 3:38 PM, GMX said:

That's coming along nicely Lenny:smile:

I had those in my last house in the kitchen, if they had lasted quarterly that would've been something of an improvement.:unsure:

It was more of fortnightly to three weekly event changing the expired halogens:sad:

My brother has them in his kitchen with no other light source just the halogens dotted around the kitchen ceiling shining down on the worktop areas and six above the table; yeah it looks cosy and light where its needed but costs a fortune replacing bulbs.

These LED version are said to be a straight swap unit from standard Halogen, 

On Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at 4:12 PM, salsheikh said:


I dont see how the downlight covers fit over the lights you have posted due to the horizontal shape of the green bit?

Keep up the awesome work man :wink:

Thanks mate,

Although it says these ThermaHood covers are suitable for use with LED version; I haven't purchased the ThermaHood's just yet, because I've lifted the landing floor to discover the plywood flooring beneath has been layed down before the partition walls and banister rail went in 😣

this means I have the same sheet running across the landing and under the walls in to bedrooms.

One option is to cut out the hall section but will result in creaking floor at a later date.

so I'm holding off on purchasing the ThermaHood's because I may be taking out the ceiling to install the downlights instead of taking up the floor meaning the hoods wouldn't fit up through the ceiling for installation.

but either way; the LED downlights are going in 😅

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Love that green colour Lenny.  Great progress again, unless you've already explained it but how will those light hoods affect the running temperatures of the LED's or will it not make a difference

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4 minutes ago, Preecematt said:

Love that green colour Lenny.  Great progress again, unless you've already explained it but how will those light hoods affect the running temperatures of the LED's or will it not make a difference

Don't think they increase the heat much, the LED don't get as hot as halogen neither apparently 

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On 7/19/2016 at 4:12 PM, salsheikh said:


I dont see how the downlight covers fit over the lights you have posted due to the horizontal shape of the green bit?

Keep up the awesome work man :wink:

Your right mate,

Received the downlights this morning and lucky I didn't purchase those ThermaHood's just yet because the LED downlights don't need them according to the box 👍


In other news;

im on holidays this week from work; my dad's on a three hour drive down with tools to stay and help out for two days,🙌 so the radiators are going in today👌

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LED Dimmable Downlights fitted today very happy with the 4000kelvin results,
I've not been able to fit the clipsal branded LED dimmer just yet as it's on special order from Schneider Electric in Germany whom are the manufacturer of the Clipsal range of switch & sockets, so here are the downlights at full illumination;
I'e very impressed with the results 👍
The hall needs painting and will be done soon,
I would have preferred to remove the mains powerd smoke alarm and fit one of the downlights in its place as it seemed the ideal location to fit one,
But the Electrician (my dad) says; The smoke alarm has to be located atleast 12" inches from each wall above the kitchen door in order to comply with building safety regulations,
So it has to stay where it was and had it replaced as they expire every 10 years and this one was fitted since 2003 when the house was built.
Replacement 5 year model only cost €19.50👌
10 year model is €74.95😦
Bit smaller than the previous one, also had a battery backup supply which previous model didn't 👍
When installing downlights;
My Dad showed me a great way which doesn't involve lifting the floor above or making a mess of The ceiling.
He used a wire coat hanger, 
Bent it to match the width of the downlights housing in this case the overall width of the downlight was 113mm so he bet the wire at 57mm long.
Meassured up the ceiling and marked out evenly spread locations that were centre to the ceiling ideally where we would like them to be fitted.
Then made a pin sized hole about 5mm in diameter.
stuck the bent coat hanger up through this hole and rotated it 360` degree's
If the coat hanger comes in to contact with a joice juring this rotation then we move over a bit and try again.
The small test hole is very easily filled if it's not a successful hit and is much better than drilling a huge hole to find its not going there.
Great tip that 👍
The Phone socket has also been installed in the living room using the new cable I fed up to The attic through the hotpress, 
The Internet Router and landline phone can now be removed from the hall space,
The CAT7 Network cables feeding to the room's upstairs can now function without the use of NetGear adaptors👍
I plan to surface mount the socket plate inside the cabinet when cabinet is fitted.
Going to fill ceiling in hall with some filler now, 
This plaster was cut out earlier to fit an additional cable to power the downlights, fed down to through the cavity to an additional switch.
Another sanding and light skim of filler tomorrow should see it ready for painting👍

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The project has expanded alot from the original plan but I'm really enjoying it.
I've been stock piling items required at later stages throughout the project; as saw in previous posts but in recent weeks ive been researching products which save on the electricity bill without being a bit of a Victor Mildrew about things these items save money by eliminating the excess usage not reducing any enjoyment or quality of life.
I figured the easiest way to introduce the array of products was to document them in a post of there own; aside from the main project progress.
Lets start with:
"Getting the most Free out of the Television".
The first group of items are free to air television.
I've purchased a UK & Ireland terrestrial TV aerial kit.
As we live on the South East Coast it is possible to recieve both UK & Ireland terestrial television providing an array of channels for the cost of aerial system €180.
One additional item I found interesting which wasn't part of the kit is this LTE signal blocker which filters out wireless 4G broadband signals from interfering with terestral viewing
The next item is for the existing SKY sattelite dish on the roof; it's an Octo LNB 
The existing LNB on the sky dish is a twin output providing two cables to the sky+ HD box in the living room, 
This new LNB is Called "Octo" because it provides 8 coaxial outputs,
This means it can provide a double sattelite feed to all 3 bedrooms upstairs aswell as the living room downstairs allowing "Sky+ HD" or "free Sat" to be paused and recorded in any of the four rooms for a single once off purchase of this item aswell as some decoders and roll of coaxial cable.
A good addition to the LNB are some Rubber Sleeve Boots to cover outdoor connections on Coaxial Cable after a smear of bathroom silicone protecting from oxidation & corrosion 
The overall plan is to have a SKY+ HD box in the living room with additional Humax HDR freeview box's in The other rooms upstairs. 
The main Sky Subscription viewing; will be shared throughout the house to all televisions using one of these RF Output Adaptors fitted to the back of the Skt+HD box in the living room 👇
Aswell as additional power supply to boost the signal feeding up to the attic space 
SKY+HD i/O link Adaptor 
12v Power Supply 
The Coaxial cable feeds from the Triax I/O link at the rear of the Sky box up to a splitter in thr attic which then shares the signal to multiple rooms.
The SKY+HD Box in the living room can then be controlled from any bedroom upstairs using a connected "smart eye" aswell as a Sky+HD remote but all watching the same channel on the Decoder.
So for example: 
Channel "0" on all televisions will display a mirror image from the box on any television throughout the house, I have studied the operations of the new SkyQ and discovered that "Sky+ HD" is the better option for multiroom because SkyQ only offers multiroom through the use of an additional SkyQ box which applys additional monthly subscription fees where as "Sky+ HD" allows you to have multiroom without additional monthly fees but only watching the same channel on the one box.
Purchased the 2TB Sky+HD box brand new from ebay auction for €70 these boxs are available to purchase directly from sky for €280 and store six times the memory of a standard box,
Delighted to have saved alot for the same Brand New condition item by purchasing through eBay auction.
Link to similar offer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221817091448 
Separate to the Sky in the living room then;
The bedrooms upstairs will eventually each have there own Hybrid decoder connected to each television linked to the sattelite dish & terrestrial aerial feeds,
These Hybrid Decoders take in a terrestrial coaxial feed from the aerial
Aswell as a double sattelite feed from the dish
To provide all the free channels from both sources combined in to one easy to use line-up with pause & record capability.
The end result being channel "0" on all televisions throughout the home displays the Sky+HD box which is also controllable on all televisions, 
separate to this then HDMI 01 on all televisions displays that specific televisions Hybrid Decoder which provides all that is free viewing from both aerial and sattelite. each bedroom also has a Cat7 RJ45 cable feeding from the internet router which provides the additional option for IPTV or amazon Fire TV box etc.
At present we get our subscription of television channels through the Telephone line provider, 
This method is known as "IPTV" 
It operates via RJ45 network cables connecting from the Broadband Router to a specific IP Decoder which then connects to the Television via a HDMi connection and operates in much the same way as sky sattelite in terms of layout and range of available channels.
As result I've relocated the main phone socket in to the livingroom and installed Cat7 network cables feeding from each bedroom down through the walls in to the living room  as saw in previous progress updates, 
These Cat7 network cables will be connected to an Ethernet LAN router for the highest speed possible compared to putting everything on WiFi.
A Cat7 RJ45 network cable is capable of data transfer and much faster speeds than WiFi connection with zero congestion from my own personal experience aswell as reviews from others.
I've done alot of research as always prior to choosing some Gigabit Ethernet Switches to build the home network and here they are; 
The first one is an "NetGear GS308" 8 port unit,
This Ethernet switch operates by taking in a single RJ45 Cable feed from the Telephone router and splits in in to 7 input/output RJ45 terminals each capable of transferring up to 1Gb of data per second to/from a device such as Smart TV, Android box, Desktop computer anything with an RJ45 connection.
Using an 8 port LAN router in the living room results in a single Cat7 cable connection to the main router; freeing up the other RJ45 sockets on the main Telephone router for use of other RJ45 cables feeding to the rooms upstairs.
These particular NetGear GS308 and GS305 models are built with metal casings for better dispersion of heat and can be vertically wall mounted which is also the way I'll be fitting out of sight at the rear of the living room cabinet feeding all devices within the cabinet with a dedicated wired internet connection to best minimise wireless communication.
The second unit is a "Netgear GS305 Ethernet Switch" in all essence; its exactly the same as first one there except it's a smaller 5 port model meaning it takes in a single RJ45 network cable and splits it in to 4 input/output connections 
The 5 port unit will go in the bedroom to split the main CAT7 cable feed.


Picked up some 1.0 Metre long flat CAT7 cables to connect between devices and Ethernet switch very affordable price and top build quality with no excess length at rear of the cabinet reducing clutter👌
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAT7-Network-Cables-Ethernet-Cable-Braided-LAN-Patch-Cord-Gold-Lead-Wholesale-/371728353513?var=&hash=item568cbc88e9:m:mA4V1rLOQ2dkbM_-zxF8EkQ

This Post has now covered All modern methods of receiving media & taps in to every free option available on the market to date; aswell as being best prepared for any future method of paid subscription without much or any further cable installation being required; all of the above install makes it easy to stay dynamic in the consumer market by being able to effortlessly switch to the cheapest subscription provider each time a contract expires without any inconvenience or additional installation being required👍

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Here's another Post highlighting some energy saving products manufactured within the UK supplied from two main manufacturers.
First cost effective item i've found is for the immersion, 
How many of us have either gone out of the house or gotten in to bed and forgotten to switch it off.
Not anymore 😀
This boost switch from TimeGuard automatically turns off after the set amount of time has expired.
Very simple one button operation, press twice for 30 minutes operation etc.
I've purchased a regular immersion switch along with the TimeGuard unit and a double mounting plate as I plan on relocating the existing location of the standard switch removing it from the hallway and positioning it inside the hotpress door.
Anyway here's some links: 
TimeGuard Immersion Switch:
2 Gang 25mm Surface plate box: 
Sink/Bath Selection Switch: 
The above item "TimeGuard Immersion Switch" can be used for basically any hard wired item; not just the water heater making it very useful for a range of devices.
The next item also from TimeGuard is ideal for a range of uses and my main reason for purchasing is to use when charging my Phone at night,
I don't like leaving chargers plugged in overnight for fear of starting a fire which has happened others on a few occasions,
This item based on the TimeGuard immersion boost button design; is ideal for phone chargers, electric heaters, ironing, hair straighteners, patio heaters, electric fires the list goes on, 
Basically any item which we tend to walk away and forget to switch off.
The final item from TimeGuard and yet to arrive with me is; Dusk to Dawn lamp holder 
This item is ideal for those whom leave the hall landing light on throughout the night, 
The adaptor has a built-in photocell sensor which will automatically turn off the bulb when it sences solar light saving you money especially on Sunday mornings where you spend the extra hour in bed 😁
"update with image when it arrives" 
The next item is slightly more advanced, ideal for the bedroom tv and radio or living room its a Media Standby eliminator.
This socket adaptor has an Infrared sensor fitted with cable.
You program or sync it to the power off button on the TV remote or desired item,
It then switches the socket off 30 seconds later eliminating standby on the items powered through the socket.
Best used with a 4 or 6 socket adaptor where it terminates the standby power consumption of many items. 
When you think about it; this item can also be used for table lamps or electric fire etc. 
You can program it to turn on and off using any iR signal, 
So for example: pressing yellow on the Sky remote will turn on/off the table lamp.
The next item now from the same UK company is WiFi sockets, 
These socket adaptors wirelessly connect to the internet router and are controlled via an app on your Android or Apple based device from well anywhere in the world that you have internet access not just within your home here's a screenshot of the app notice the customizable icons 
There very simple to setup and you can customize the icon for each socket on the app to match the device plugged in making it extremely user friendly.
The app also allows you to enter the cost of your electricity units and will calculate the usage aswell as display real time consumption of the connected appliance😯
You can also setup timeclock function.
I plan to use one to power the cabinet downlight when I eventually have it fitted as I won't be easily able to access the sockets at the rear of the cabinet without removing a wooden panel. 
Not sure what I'll use the second one for just yet but I can see myself purchasing a few more of these in the future for kitchen appliances and lamps👍
The next item is very affordable and doesn't use WiFi, and has a multitude of possibilities from a company called "EnergyEgg" here is there product which is also called Energy Egg
The kit consists of a wireless 9V battery Powered egg shaped PR sensor ☝
which is much the same as the sensor you may have fitted to an outside light but it has extra heat sensitivity which can detect if a person is in the room even if there sitting perfectly still.
The other part of the kit is the wireless plug in socket adaptor, additional plug in sockets are sold separately for a small fee and can be synchronized to operate from the same sensor;
EnergyEgg also sell wall light switches which can also be synchronised.
The PIR sensor sends signals directly to these sockets without the use of WiFi to switch them on when someone is in the room and off again when nobody has been in the room for a adjustable set period of 5-30mine saving energy.
Ideal for kids play rooms or living room where they tend to turn on everything then leave the room, I like the "time off delay" feature as it allows you time to leave the room to answer the doorbell or make a coffee without everything instantly turning off,
The next item isint really cost saving as much as it is space saving and somewhat cosmetic.
At present the fan extraction is powerd by this unsightly and unnecessary power outlet positioned on the wall 
I plan to remove this completely,
Routing a new cable with a 13Amp plug top down to the socket at the back of the fridge where it will still be fused by a 13Amp fuse and function as it currently does but without the unsightly cable exiting from a wall plate.
At present there's only a single socket fitted at the rear of the fridge; I found this single to triple socket conversion kit to install at the back of the fridge in the kitchen to power the fridge, kitchen radio and the cooker extraction fan.
That's all the cost saving items I've found worth purchasing.
I hope some find it of interest, 
ill be taking a break now for the Christmas Season to help Santa followed by returning to schedule in January.

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Purchased a set of 15 assorted picture frames in black from eBay link: http://r.ebay.com/jeoQKo
I quite liked the configuration of the example image on there listing ☝ and thought it would look good on the living room wall above the radiator with pictures of the family at various stages in life.
I plan on mounting them to the wall using screws & wall plugs, all marking and drilling is to be completed before the room is painted.
I went to the local DIY store and purchased some M5 x 25 screws & wall plugs along with a new 5mm Masonry drill bit.
This is the unfinished living room wall which I will be mounting the arrangement to.
Here is the delivery of picture frames layed out in the desired formation on the kitchen table:
Using a spirit level, a measuring tape and a sharp pencil;
I first marked a top line from the upper frame of the door to across the wall, making this the highest point of the picture frame arrangement.
The reason for this is that; by keeping everything in line with the height of the door frame it gives the impression of a higher ceiling within the room and more head space.
I then layed out the pictures on the kitchen table leaving 2" inches of space between each frame in order to obtain the overall width of the arrangement in order to find a centre point on the wall.
I was then able to draw a large box on the wall using the spirit level, 
This made it alot easier to line the picture up correctly.
I chose to start with the top right hand side picture frame
using the spirt level; I lined up the top & right side of the frame with the top right corner of the box drawn on the wall,
I then traced out the left side and under side of the frame on to the wall creating a square silhouette within the large box,
I then meassured the width of the picture frame to find its centre point,
Followed by meassuring downwards to find the distance from top centre to the hanging clip
I then meassured the same distances on to the silhouette frame drawn on the wall; marking it with a cross as this is the centre point for drilling the screw
I then meassured on the wall across 2" inches to the left and began the process again with the next picture frame.
Then meassuring down 2" inches below the picture frame and repeated the process filling up the large box area with markings until it ended up like this👇
The large initially drawn box is now consumed with silhouette's of each picture frame with 2" inches of space around the frame of each one, 
Centre points marked and holes drilled😥
It's not as huge of undertaking as it looks; because the small pictures on the right side are mounted on the same level as the small pictures on the left side, 
Provided you have a 3ft spirit level you can easily mark out the frames all at the same time. 
Here are the pictures termperarily mounted on the wall now for photograph purposes; I've not taken then out of the shrink wrap yet as I don't want them to get damaged, also as result of this; the horizontal frames are sitting low because there mounting clips are on the vertical side within the shrink wrap, I'm not opening them yet to correct this but when they are on the mounting hooks then they will be level with the top of the other picture frames.
I've since taken down the pictures and removed the screws ready for painting at a later date,
Only the wall plugs remain which makes things easier for the painter aswell as myself when re-inserting the screws.
Quick wipe down with some Sugar Soap & Water removes the pencil markings.
Marking out and fitting takes alot of time but it's well worth doing in a room which you use to relax as each time you look at it it's a reminder of patience and dedication achieves results, it also takes time to find the family images to fill it correctly documenting history overall a true testament to time and things that have been done all displayed within a relaxing environment👌
Moving on from the picture frames then; 
I plan to mount the television in the other wall at a later date within the same top and bottom border lines of these pictures to keep everything in stream rather than humpty bumpty on each wall, 
The one thing that was looking out of sync was the height of the light switch on the wall, 
I have a Nickel black dimmer to replace this switch when the room has finally been painted but it's current height was too low in comparison to the bottom row of pictures and the height of the radiator below.
So I got the spirit level and marked a bottom line across the wall to coincide with the bottom of the picture frames,
I then chased out the wall using a small chisel & lump hammer to the exact size of a metal first fixing insert wall plate; taking care not to damage the electrical conduit inside.
I then turned off the power at the main switchboard; and using a snips, I began to carefully cut the conduit at the new location; taking care not to cut the wire inside rather to cut the conduit from around it. 
I then gently pulled the wire up from the old lower location in to the new area and pushed the excess cable back up in to the conduit feeding the cable to the ceiling area which saved me time cutting and creating new connections.


I then drilled a 5mm hole and fitted the single DIN first fix metal housing.20170324_183718_zpskaofikmu.thumb.jpg.51dcaf5aea10b25d40d6eae41e4b5189.jpg

Followed by termperarily installing the original switch in to the new location; I'll change it for the nickel metal dimmer after the walls are finally painted.20170324_192512_zpsvib1hmtj.thumb.jpg.44079968e745656a988981c393ca5352.jpg

I then used some Unibond Expanding foam filler to patch over the original hole allowing it a few hours to dry thoroughly through.
I then sliced off the excess cured foam using a bread knife and used some Readymixed Polyfilla to finish the surface
Left it for 24 hours to dry then sanded smooth with surrounding wall then filled it again👇
Left for another 24 hours then sanded and its now ready for paint.👍
The wall has since been painted white to balance it out; in preparation for the correct colour

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the 4th frame from the left on the top (medium sized one) needs to be inline with the others - looks a little lower

other than that it looks ace

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2 hours ago, salsheikh said:


the 4th frame from the left on the top (medium sized one) needs to be inline with the others - looks a little lower

other than that it looks ace

Thanks mate all the horizontal frames are sitting low because there not currently hanging on the metal clips like the other frames, no the horizontal ones were hanging on the frame which causes them to be slightly lower temporarily.

the reason for this is; the clips are currently on the vertical side and I'd have to take them out of the shrink wrap to put the clip on to the horizontal side which I don't want to do until fitting for the last time.

they will be 100% in line when fitted on the clips the same as the other frames were at the time of taking the picture👍

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I've not updated the thread in quite a while now, My chosen image host "Photobucket" is requesting an annual fee of €300 to display my uploads, 

I've transferred images over for this thread across the festive season which has taken me quite some time but thankfully its now back up to date,
I'll be piecing this update together across the day to fill it with images the project has expanded rather than completed, I'll be throwing another 10-12K at it again across this year but i don't expect it to be completed by the end of this year neither considering the cost of some items such as a new front door circa 3-3.5k and free standing cast iron letter box another €540 but it will be well thoughtout and quality when finished.
So here's what's been happening since eh February 2017😯 i didn't think it was that long since I updated😅
Well first following the raising up of the living room lightswitch; I continued to raise all of the downstairs light switches up to a more comfortable height of 145cm from the floor to centre of switch
Still needs another spread of pollyfilla, sanding and another paint but almost complete
The plan for this year is to change the downstairs interior door frames and doors from Pine to solid Oak,
The main reason for change is because the existing doors had saddle boards fitted; which we won't be fitting again in the future resulting In a gap between the existing door and floor where the saddle boards used to be.
As part of the change; we also wanted the kitchen door to be hung on the opposite side of the frame, since the existing Pine doors and frames are destined for a waste skip when removed; I took off the door and hung it on the opposite side of the frame to save myself having to remember that change when having the replacements installed.
Having the door swinging open on the opposite side;
Also ment the light switch had to be put on the opposite side of the wall aswell so here we are:
Hammer, chisel, measuring tape and spirit level
Located the original conduit inside the wall above the existing switch; then cut around it to access the cables followed by extending them down to the opposite side of the frame👍
Needs another bit of pollyfilla, sand and paint.
Having changed the radiator in the living room and the hallway to Milano Designer radiators at an earlier date; we decided to install them throughout the house as there steel construction instead of standard aluminium they spread the heat more consistent; there banister design also provides more surface to air contact helping the dispersion of heat.
In preparation for fitting then the tiles in the kitchen had to be removed aswell as the holes from the original radiator filled and painted prior to fitting the new Milano because the gaps in the radiator allow the wall behind to be saw as result it must be perfect. 
Chased out some of the floor and wall to recess the radiator pipes the same as the hall and living room, looks much cleaner and easier to clean the floor without obstruction.
I then removed all of the original radiators upstairs, filled the walls and sanded smooth prior to newly painting each of the rooms in preparation for the Milano radiators.
Also chiseled out a small section of the floor to allow the pipes recess in to the wall the same as downstairs👍
While I was busy filling and painting the rooms; a new telecommunications network provider was busy chasing out the pavements in our estate.
Virgin Media were laying down some high speed fibre optic cables 😁


I was absolutely delighted to see them installing now; while I still had the living room in its bare plaster and concrete state; because I have all the other network providers already seamlessly installed within the home, it was a very good time to welcome VirginMedia in to the home aswell.

Here they are laying a large bore pipe across the road at the front of the house where they planned to fit a manhole.



They then chased out the pavements to install a small manhloe port outside each house which was quite a task.


Cemented in the following day and left to dry.




They later came back with a large coil of fibreoptic cable and a compressor on a trailer to blow the fibre optic cable through the green pipe to the main hub.



Here's the small manhole on the pavement outide our house.


3 months after they had layed down the green pipes,

I was the first in the area to sign up and was able to get the fibre optic cable run from the large manhole to the black manhole outside the wall and in to the house, 

The installation process cost me €240 for installation in 3 rooms but it was worth it for 360mb broadband and a fairly good range of TV channels also worth getting installed while the living room was bare because it's all seamless now when finished all network providers are seamlessly installed,
I should say; I wasn't required to do any preparation work for Virginmedia to arrive and install there services, but having delt with a few Sky installation eh for want of a better word erh
In the past I'm well used to them arriving and not wanting go do anything tidy, there paid by the job so they want it done as fast as possible they don'
 Care how it looks afterwards, so I took the time to do all preparation work myself aswell as the day off work to negotiate with them.
So here's how the installation to the house went; 
The above image shows the small manhole outside the wall of our front garden, 
Inside that manhole is a green pipe feeding from the hub, 
When installing the fibreoptic cable to the house, they will open the manhole and drill downwards in through the wall in to the garden at a 45° degree angle.
Then feed in a green pipe. 
As result I've taken the time to measure the height of the wall from the pavement to the top of the wall, 
I then measured down the inside of the wall and removed the compost from our garden to ensure the level on the inside of the wall was significantly lower 14" lower than the pavement allowing ease of install.


I shoveled the compost in to a large bag making it easy to put back when the installation was completed; just lift the bag in and cut it open👍


They run the fibreoptic line from the manhole; through the wall and down the garden behind the shrubs and underneath the compost.


Basic Photoshop here: 20180121_034701.jpg.2a8ab1ac7e30c8cc1abf20df8b36a6ec.jpg



To the small red brick wall close to the house; where they will need to fit a brown box which takes in the fibreoptic line and outputs RG6 coaxial cable in to the house, I planned there is sufficint  space for the brown box on the pebble dash wall next to the tree.

They could then drill through at the bottom of the red brick wall and continue to the front wall of the house.



The expanding foam in the image below is from a previous hole drilled by Sky before I reinstalled the cable inside the house instead of it running up the front wall. 


On the day of intallation three Virginmedia installers arrived apparently all skilled in different areas oc installation,

1 x There job is to dig up the garden and lay the green pipe from the manhole to the brown box

1 x There job is to blow the fibreoptic cable through the green pipe from the large manhole across the road to the brown box

1 x There job is to route the RG6 cables from the brown box to the desired locations inside the house along with the router and box's

I explained my preparation and plan to the three lads whom were impressed with my preparation work aswell as being delighted to see the livingroom was stripped out; made there job a ot easier. 

However; there installation plans slightly differed from my idea of how it was all going to be 🤔

I had asked them to fit the brown box behind the tree on to the boundary wall but they didn't want to put it there; unless I was willing to let them cut the tree down all all together 😂 seriously 😀

They did run the fibreoptic line under the shrubs no problem,👍

But they positioned the brown box on the front of the house next to the garden socket instead of it being hidden inside the wall because I wouldn't let them fell a tree.

They then run an RG6 cable from the brown box up the front of the house in to the attic where it is fitted to a splitter feeding to viewing box's in two rooms upstairs.





They then run two lengths of RG6 cable in to the living room; one is for a power adapter which plugs in to an available socket within the house and boosts the splitter inside the brown box outside via an RG6 cable.


The second feed goes in to a splitter providing two separate outputs; one for the router and one for the viewing box.


Overall the only issue's I have with the install is the positioning of tge brown box outside and I can't change because there's fibreoptic feeding to it, 
Also that they run a coaxial cable up the front of the house in to the attic,
I can change that as i plan to route a new RG6 cable inside the house from the brown box to the livingroom through to the kitchen and up in to the attic where it won't be visible anywhere; I can then remove the original from the front of the house myself at a later date but well worth it as there's VirginMedia in every room the same as sattelite, Terrestrial & CAT7 RJ45 internet connection.
I've since filled in gaps around the livingroom sockets aswell as giving it two coats of white paint and installing the 8 port NetGear GS308 Gigabit LAN router.
In the master bedroom Then;
I plan to mount a 32" Television on the wall at the bottom of the bed,
With the entertainment devices being positioned on top of the wardrobe to the right of the television.
All items purchased from ebay👇
The cable management method is much the same as that saw in the living room;
where I've used a 1.5" flexi drain pipe to house the cables within the wall allowing free movement of cables aswell as making it easy to add other cables at a later date if required.
Rather than chasing out the block wall to house the 1.5" pipe,
I've only removed the plaster and I plan to sheet the wall with 1.5" insulated plasterboard which will cover the pipe and also keep noise levels down from next door.
Iv'e fitted a surge protected 6 socket adaptor to the wall at the rear of the wardrobe, the Television power supply will also be extended and plugged in here, 
I then fished the cable through the plasterboard wall to the right and hard wired the 6 socket adaptor to a newly installed fused spur switch which is powered from the rear of a double socket on the same wall.
Also fitted a Netgear GS305 Gigabit LAN Router on the wall which is also linked to the Television using CAT7 RJ45 cable.
There's still some cable management to be done at the top of the wardrobe but it's coming together as planned.
I relocated the immersion switch away from view in the landing and inside the hotpress or Airing cupboard door along with the TimeGuard switch to automatically turn off the immersion after a set duration of time 👍
So the immersion switch is always left in the "ON" position,
The TimeGuard button then control's the power feeding to the immersion.
Most recently picked up this distressed looking metal arch mirror for the wall on the landing at the top of the stairs,
This style of mirror is somthing the wife really wanted to have positined there,
Unfortunately when the mirror is mounted on the wall; it's covering the landing light switch,
So I've marked out the wall on the opposite side and drilled in to the cavity in preparation for the electrician (my dad) to re-route the cables and switch to the left side of the door at a later date.
Having cut out the plasterboard; I stuck the top of my phone inside to take a picture in order to see where there was a horizontal partition;
thankfully there was just one feeding to the Attic,
So I've drilled down from the Attic space in to the cavity in preparation for the reroute of the cables 👌
Routed the cables down the opposite side of the door; and filled the old switch location with expanding foam:
Prior to trimming it back and filling smooth using some Ronseal ready mixed filler,
it's great stuff new on the market,
I used to use Pollyfilla all the time but this stuff is much lighter and spreads like ice-cream.
The landing area and hall still need painting at a later date but it's best go get everything marked up and hanging on the walls before paint.
That's all progress up to date, next update may be April/May

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You don't do things by halves do you?:biggrin:


Looking good as ever :wink:

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Definitely a interesting topic. My dad has done work in the house and might put pics up to give you some ideas. Next I think my room or the kitchen will be refurbished. 

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On 1/1/2018 at 3:20 PM, zain611 said:

Definitely a interesting topic. My dad has done work in the house and might put pics up to give you some ideas. Next I think my room or the kitchen will be refurbished. 


Picture's are always welcome and thanks for viewing and commenting but if you don't mind mate; I'd like to keep this thread specific to my build to prevent confusion👍

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I've not updated the thread since early January,
I've been working 6 days per week since 04th January and working on the house every Sunday,
I've been off work since last Thursday and things have progressed quite well within the house as I had a stockpile of items; so here we go with the update;
At present there are many areas of the home improvement process which can be addressed as there's now something to be done in every room of the house; 
So last January was a new start having Christmas out of the way,
I was in a position to continue with the home, 
Since it was January I decided to start the year with completing the home entertainment, 
So I first meassured up the areas and created a list of all items required such as HDMI cables and CAT7 cables aswell as HDMI modulators and signal amplifier.
Most of the items I had already purchased and discussed on page 02 of this thread, 
I then spent the months January February and March; stock piling everything required for all three bedrooms,
The overall plan was to have a television wall mounted in each bedroom with the Aerial, HDMI & Network cables being routed inside the wall out of sight, 
Two floating box's would be mounted flush with the ceiling to house a Sky Multiroom box fitted with a Freeview card and a Virginmedia box with active subscription.
on top of that each room would have it's own LAN Router with all the devices connected to it; minimising the use of Wi-Fi in the house.
A HDMI Modulator would be fitted to a Blueray player in the living room which would allow it to be tuned in to any television within the house, saving the cost of purchasing a second player. 
Quite alot of HDMI and RJ45 cables and distribution box's were required particularly in the attic area as the cables would be going from the floating box's in the room; up in to the attic then across the joices and back down inside the partition wall and in to the Television. 
The distribution box's and signal amplifier would really need some sort of central location, 
so I got a pen to paper and drew up a plan to create a wall mounted MDF panel which would be spaced 1" inch from the wall to allow cables pass behind it as well as air flow, its purpose to house all the required distribution devices on the Apex block wall within the attic👍
I then measured the area of the block wall in order to find out the maximum size the MDF panel could be,
I then purchased a T-square and some masking tape from Poundland and began to mark out the panel by placing each device on to it then marking the mount locations aswell as cable entry/exit holes,
The masking tape wasn't essential but it results in a clean panel when finished there won't be any markings atall.
While the weather conditions were like this outside:
I was in the kitchen building this panel and routing cables around the attic, it was the ideal time to do it because we couldn't really do much else and it wasn't too warm in the attic👍
Here are the Pine strips fitted down both sides of the panel creating the cavity space at the rear between the wall and panel.  
Fitted to the wall using some 90 degree brackets on each corner, 
Thinking back now; would have been cool had I put it on hinges or hydraulic boot lift rams, would have saved my fingers from scoffing the wall when routing all the cables through it.
Here It's fitted on the wall but still plenty of cables to be tidied.
The black cage on the right of the panel is a fold down shelf,
I'm going to be using it for a DVR which will connect to the HDMI Modulator allowing it to be tuned in on all Television's aswell as being monitored across the internet👍
The white downward angled surface box fitted to the lower right side of the panel; is for 6 sattelite feeds, there are Currently 8 feeds coming from the "Octo LNB" on the standard Sky sattelite mounted on the chimney, two feeds go directly to the livingroom as saw in earlier posts and there are six remaining that's two for each bedroom upstairs, 
I decided to separate these cables at the panel because; in the unlikely event that one ever got damaged by a mouse chewing through it, I can easily replace it from the panel to the room rather than paying an installer to get up on the roof and run a new feed all the way through,
I can easily access the attic myself.
I've purchased a six port clipsal plate from electricalwholesaler.ie to go on to this angled box:
I then purchased six clipsal F-type to F-type connectors from MAD Electronics in Australia to fit in to this plate prior to installation in the attic,
"Schneider electric" are the manufacturer of the clipsal range, despite being a German name there actually based in Australia, there UK range of stock doesn't have F-type connectors but there Australian range of connectors does; and they will fit straight in to the UK wall plate, 
The inserts pop straight in from the rear of the plate:
Now labelled up and fitted to the panel in the attic, 
Here's a plate which I've also made up and labelled for the living room Coaxial feeds:
The top satellite feeds are self explanatory, the bottom two feeds are; 
"Aerial" which is coming straight down from the Proception masterhead amplifier in the attic to this plate, 
Best way i can explain it is to say:
It's the beginning of a coaxial loop; 
It connects in to a HDMI Modulator 
A cable then comes out of the HDMI Modulator and goes in to the "Multiroom" connection; sending it back up to the attic panel where it goes in through the second Edison HDMI Modulator to catch the CCTV signal then the loop goes in to the 4 channel splitter where it comes back down to the living room in to the centre "TV" coaxial feed containing all HD Digital terrstrial channels along with the Bluray Channel and CCTV channel which are self broadcast within the home.
Here's a video to explain there function in  more detail 👇

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While working in the attic I was doing everything in the dark, only had a torch on my head which got quite frustrating at times,
So I decided to get some lighting for the attic space, 
I logged on to electricalwholesaler.ie and bought two plug tops along with two Osram 20W LED floodlights aswell as some Metal clad sockets and a TimeGuard segment switch👍
I've mounted one floodlight on the top of the Apex on both sides of the attic space,
They are rach 100w equivalent and a nice majestic 3000k 

I've gotta get the sockets fitted and wired in to the TimeGuard switch, currently powering them from an extension cable. My brother-in-law is an electrician and has arranged to wire up the sockets next weekend, My dad was a lecturer for apprentice electricians and does most of the work with me but he's almost 70 now so I couldn't expect him to assist in the attic.
With the panel now created on the wall in the attic;
There was a central location to feed the network and coaxial cables from to each of the rooms upstairs, 
I meassured up lengths and logged on to amazon to purchase somd Vandesail CAT7 cables aswell as some Coaxial cables.
I've run all cables down along the straight beam on either side of the Apex where they then T off down between the Joyce's under the insulation in to the box shelves and partition wall of the room through to the Television.
I also meassured the area the cables were running along and purchased some PVC 50x25mm Maxi Trunking to match the size to ensure the cables are safe from being stood on or tripped over in the attic or damaged in any way.
Ive gotta install these lengths in the attic ill get pictures before the weekend
With all cables routed from the panel it was then time install the Television bracket along with fishing the cables down inside the partition wall's.
So armed with a Stanley Stud Finder and a Dragon's Den product called "Grip-it" I started in Bedroom 01 
Bedroom 01
This is the box room of the house, the smallest of the three in the house, 
As result; a tilt & Swivel TV bracket was sufficient for the wall as the Television wouldn't need to turn much since the room is shall we say narrow enough.
Using the Stud finder I was able to find the centre of the wooden partition inside the studded wall,
I then marked up the holes for the bracket prior to drilling some 3mm pilot holes in to the vertical wooden beam prior to ***** in three 8mm self tapping screws to secure the bracket to the wall.20180225_170304.jpg


I then used a spirit level and a single DIN plasterboard insert box to mark out the area for taking through the cables from the attic.



I then went up in to the attic and drilled a 25mm hole down in to the partition cavity fishing them through the wall from attic to bedroom.


Then cut out the top section of the single DIN plasterboard insert to allow the bulk of cables to easily pass through in to the room.




Finished off with a black nickel finished; brush plate to tidy the appearnce, prevent heat loss from the room and prevent spiders from passing through.


The bracket was then complete but the smallest fixing it takes is 75x75 and unfortunately the 27" Samsung LED television I had to fit requires a 50x50 fixing,


So i logged on to eBay & amazon only to discover that it's almost impossible to source a television bracket that supports the 50x50 fixing,

The only thing I could find was this adaptor plate:


The adaptor plate was quite tricky to install due to restricted access to the bolt heads to prevent them turning when tightening down the nuts, 

But as you can see in the image below; it got the job done and worked out nicely in the end.


I then began to install two white oval box shelves up tight to the ceiling in the left corner of the room to drop down the opposite end of the television cables in to; 

The box units are designed to hang on to screws in the wall, but I'm looking to fit them flush with the ceiling; meaning I required an alternative method of mounting them to the wall,

I purchased some 4mm 90°Degree bent pre-drilled stainless steel brackets to bolt through both of the box's then securing them to the wall using four M6 screws.



There now perfectly aligned together; ready for fixing to the wall,

The brackets will provide best weight support being positioned in the bottom shelf,

Also you can see a black hole drilled the right of the original; this is because there is a wooden beam in the attic which is corresponding directly above the original hole, so I had to drill a new opening in order to bring the cables through from the attic.


The box shelves are now successfully fitted with a Sky Multiroom Box for use as a Freesat box and a Virginmedia box with active subscription both linked to the Television on the neighbouring wall.



This design saves a lot of space in the room.


Now on to Bedroom: 02


Bedroom two has been covered in previous posts and has not really progressed much since previous updates except that it now has a new LED light fitting in the ceiling 





And the 6 socket Masterplug unit above the wardrobe; has been swapped out for a Tacima unit which conditions the voltage supply from the mains aswell as protecting from surges this unit regulates the power eliminating fluctuations caused by wind generated energy which has a negative impact on sensitive electronic devices,


"Insert image"

I've also fitted one to the panel in the attic to protect the LAN Routers aswell as all the aerial equipment:


The only factor holding it back from mounting the Television on the wall is; the insulated plasterboard wall needs to be fitted to cover the pipe containing the Television cables.


Now on to Bedroom: 03 

First I purchased a HDMI socket and an RJ45 female-female adaptor designed to fit the Clipsal plate from Schneider Electric, 

These little fittings came all the way from MAD Electronics in Australia.




I've fitted them in the wall next to some Clipsal sockets in the corner of Bedroom 03 

The RJ45 Network Socket is connected to the LAN Router for room 03 and the HDMI socket has a 7 metre Ibra HDMI cable attached linking it to HDMI 3 on the Television on the wall,

Ideal for a computer or console connection straight in to the wall and it's connected👍


Next I began fitting the Television bracket and cables to the partition wall in Bedroom 03 


Due to the layout of the room a pull out bracket was required:


The wooden support beam wasn't where I would have liked it to be on this occasion, so I had to use four blue Gripit's to secure the bracket to the plaster. 


Marked up the wall, drilled the 4 holes inserted the Gripit's and screwed it in tight.


I then used a spirit level and a single DIN plasterboard insert box to mark out the area for taking through the cables from the attic.



I then went up in to the attic and drilled a 25mm hole down in to the partition cavity fishing them through the wall from attic to bedroom aswell as feeding in a 5 metre figure 8 cable to power the Television.20180225_152547.jpg

Then cut out the top section of the single DIN plasterboard insert to allow the bulk of cables to easily pass through.


Finished off with a black nickel finish; brush plate to tidy the appearance, prevent heat loss from the room and prevent spiders from passing through.


I later took the bracket off the wall and retracted the cables just enough to be able to mask up the area and give the room another two coats of paint prior to refitting again.


Paint dried over 24 hours later I finally fitted the 32" Samsung LED Television and I'm very impressed with how it looks on the wall, the only thing holding it all there in the plaster is four blue Gripit fixings.



Next I held one of the white floating box's up to the ceiling and marked the cable entry circle on the ceiling in the corresponding location prior to drilling it out with a wholesaw.


I then bolted the two floating box's together and screwed them to the outter solid block wall using some 5mm stainless steel L shaped brackets.


I then run the cables down to each shelf consisting of a two Cat7 cables, two HDMI, two figure 8 power cable's, one C13 power cable, twin sattelite feed, terrstrial aerial feed, a Virginmedia feed and a component cable to cover any possible device requirements.


Currently fitted there is a SkyHD multiroom box with a UK Freesat card fitted and in the bottom shelf there's a Virginmedia box with active subscription. 

All of the power cable's I've run in to the box shelves and to the Television's are all 4 metre's long purchased purposey for the job, 

There all hidden in the attic space and required sockets, so next I purchased some premium spec power supplys from amazon with Radio Frequency filtering aswell as surge & lightening protection,

The whole premium power supply thing doesn't usually interest me, buf since there going to be fitted in the attic; i wanted to make very sure they were well manufactured and at 60GBP each they must be.

So when they arrived I created some stands to raise the power supplys 14" above the level of the attic insulation aswell as having a broad 25mm thick base that won'  flex and spans across the joices 


Picked up this little mitre box on ebay for 5 pounds, was ideal for cutting 45 degree lengths for the legs.








Screwed and cable tied for good measure there now ready to be fitted in the attic to power Bedroom 01 and Bedroom 03 



"Insert image"

As previously mentioned; I have cleared out the livingroom and filled then sand the walls with an orbital sander prior to applying a few coats of paint. 


The Graphite Milano Designer radiator has been temporarily removed for painting behind it, 

Once painting if complete; the Celsi electric fire and picture frames can finally go on the walls along with the Television bracket 


I'm delighted with the results so far, I'll edit this thread across the coming weeks as I get the other box shelves fitted and living room back together.

Thanks for reading more progress update in a few months time, 


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I doff my cap to your wiring skills, forward planning and research into products needed. 

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11 hours ago, Turvey said:

I doff my cap to your wiring skills, forward planning and research into products needed. 

and seemingly limitless budget!!!

Just kidding, that's a fine looking project, Lenny.  Makes me itch to do some work in my house, but I know I'd only Uck it Fup

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Great work Lenny, your attention to detail is superb - not that I'm surprised. Looks like an incredibly tidy install.

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On 4/4/2018 at 7:49 AM, Turvey said:

I doff my cap to your wiring skills, forward planning and research into products needed. 

Thanks very much, I enjoyed the planning, then to see it all come together without any issues is like a dream come true.

On 4/4/2018 at 6:52 PM, Phil21185 said:

and seemingly limitless budget!!!

Just kidding, that's a fine looking project, Lenny.  Makes me itch to do some work in my house, but I know I'd only Uck it Fup

😅 This project is in its third year now, I'm holding out for quality every time, so when I do post an update there has been quite a bit of money spent but it's no way finished; still using Ikea Matt's as temporary flooring in the living room, I could get a laminate floor within a month but I'm holding out for a solid oak. It will all come together perfectly in the end, I'm happy to wait and save for the better results.

On 4/9/2018 at 7:53 PM, Dan P said:

Great work Lenny, your attention to detail is superb - not that I'm surprised. Looks like an incredibly tidy install.

Thanks Dan,

I've really enjoyed installing,

Sadly though it's mostly done in the attic so I can't show off my skills much.

The living room is now painted and I've installed all of the items which I had in storage and previously documented on this thread.
The bottom of the neighbouring wall has had a bit of plaster chased out which will be covered by skirting boards at a later date,
I chased off the plaster using a hammer and small chisel to allow three coaxial cables feed in from the Virginmedia box outside to come in along the wall to the rear of the cabinet.
Inside the plaster the skirting boards will cover nicely.
All of the virginmedia cable's have been redone using Belden 1694A cable which has increased speed to 400mb.
Ive Routed cable through the house the same as was done with the sattelite cable; so the cable that was once running up the front of the house to the attic
has now been removed from outside of the house and replaced by a Belden 1694A cable that runs up to the attic hidden inside the house along side the sattelite and network cables leaving things much cleaner outside.
The TV bracket is now on wall in living room in preparation for the Television but I've no plan to purchase it just yet.
More progress in a few months time.

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