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1.8 tdci fuel issue


aholmes28191
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hey guys i know this has been asked 1000 times before but im going to go insane, 

i bought a 1.8 tdci mk2 focus about 6 months ago, and on the way home i had "engine system fault" and down on power, at the time we found the fuel filter lid was not tightened down enough and drawing air (surprise surprise) but i tightened the lid cleared to fault codes and drove ever since 2 weeks ago, 

when driving feels hesitant just feathering the pedal until give it a bit more revs

car broke down and had to get RAC to get me started to get it home as i had no tools with me, RAC guy cracked the injector pipes and air flew out by the bucket, and managed to start with easy start and drove about 2 miles until i got to my street and it died out again, 

i figured the same issue because the exact same symptoms happened again, this time i changed the filter and o ring, tightened down really tight and the dash says "engine system fault" and the engine dies

using forscan found  fault code p0089-61  -fuel pressure control valve / signal is above maximum threshold and will  not start, 

 

using a vac pump i pulled fuel from the hoses before the fuel filter  and ran clear diesel no air bubbles, the vacuum tested the filter housing, holding pressure good so i would assume no leaks, then vacuum pulled the fuel throught the pump from the return hose connector few air bubbles, and the ran consistent diesel although strangely the fuel slowly pulled through the pump then would speed up then slow down,

managed to get the car started by pulling the fuel this far, at idle forscan read the pressure at about 30,000 kpa and reving raised to 50,000 kpa, car idled for about 5 mins then i test drove didnt even get 10 meters and it died, tried to start again and fuel pressure read 500kpa (basically nothing).    i did this twice incase air was trapped down the pipes somewhere but did the exact same again, 

im 98% sure this time air in the fuel isnt the cause as ive reseated the fuel  filter seal a couple times and tightened to the point of it i go any further it will break, 

it seems to be gradually getting worse past couple days

has anyone seen this before? logically i think there may be a fault with the fuel pressure valve on the rear of the fuel pump restricting fuel due to the sudden drop off in fuel pressure has anyone had this?

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sure you just need fuel line bleeding too much air and no fuel going in

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Yea I've bled the air completely each time made sure there was deffinatly no air she starts then will idle for a long long time enough to fill the whole fuel system, when I take off within 10-15 yard dies

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Clogged fuel filter?

Even though Ford don't state any need to replace a fuel filter at service time I always did after having problems with fuel pressure on my old mk2.

The seal should not be reused either as it stretches & pinches if not replaced.

Sent from my SM-G930F

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Replaced the filter stoney new seal also, that's what I was thinking too but no, besides the old filter wasn't that bad but changed it anyways, 

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Check the leak off from the injectors as excessive return flow of fuel to the tank can cause too low a pressure in the fuel rail.

Tbh most standard garages have problems diagnosing fuel pressure faults properly, I'd go to a diesel specialist garage.

The fuel pressure sensor is not swappable on the 1.8, you would be looking at a full pump replacement.

Sent from my SM-G930F

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2 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

Check the leak off from the injectors as excessive return flow of fuel to the tank can cause too low a pressure in the fuel rail.

Tbh most standard garages have problems diagnosing fuel pressure faults properly, I'd go to a diesel specialist garage.

The fuel pressure sensor is not swappable on the 1.8, you would be looking at a full pump replacement.

Sent from my SM-G930F

I agree with this, do a leak off test on the injectors, I found on a previous non Ford car that the car had issues starting, it was due to 1 injector leaking off too much fuel back which then dropped the fuel pressure in the feed line meaning that the rest of the injectors weren't working properly.

Perhaps check the leak off lines anyway just in case 1 of them is split or degraded letting air into the system?

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16 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

Check the leak off from the injectors as excessive return flow of fuel to the tank can cause too low a pressure in the fuel rail.

Tbh most standard garages have problems diagnosing fuel pressure faults properly, I'd go to a diesel specialist garage.

The fuel pressure sensor is not swappable on the 1.8, you would be looking at a full pump replacement.

Sent from my SM-G930F

I hope it's not the pump, that would be EXPENSIVE! :wallbash:

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run the engine at revs, and check if there is any spitout from the leak off pipes.

If there isn't, then I would suggest buy some new seals anyway, disconnect each in turn, and run the engine briefly with some form of collective receptical underneath to catch the leaking diesel. All your looking for is excessive flow. then replace and reseal the leak off pipe. 

Its a 2 minute job per injector if you are careful but can be very beneficial, also having the new seals, will prevent leaks in the near future,

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carried out leak off test and all injectors seem pretty even and not a huge amount leaking off i would be happy that its not an injector issue,

 

today i thought id have another go and crack the code, found p0089 to be active even before trying to turn over, but removed filter housing and disassembled and inspected again (3rd time), found the smaller inner seal on the fuel filter appeared slightly deformed and a tad loose, more than i would have liked, so i got a new one from euros, fitment appeared far better,  but still seemed to start after drawing fuel through the pump, ran for about 5 mins then stopped while fuel pressure was 30,000 kpa at idle it instantly dropped to 1500 kpa (ish),

after a bit of tinkering about checking other bits and bobs, still no better stopped starting completely and just turned over, soooo , i had taken on the jeremy clarkson approach and then hammer came out of the tool box (i know a bit brutal and unnecessary) but starting to get irritated i tapped the fuel pressure valve on the rear of the fuel pump, car started straight after but died after about 10 mins, repeated twice with the exact same outcome, tried a few more times to confirm this was not a coincidence.

and lastly i cleared the DTC's removed the connector to the valve tapped it few times, tried to start the car (unplugged still) tapped again reconnected plug, cleared DTC once more and has started and ran since have had it run for 30 mins no problem and left for few hours went back and starts fine,

i used auto data to test the valve and it checked out 2.5ohms which is what autodata suggested

from being a jeep technician i know the pressure valve on the back of the pump closes when the engine is off stopping fuel draining back to the tank and filling the high pressure circuit with air , the valve sticks open hence the air lock. i assume the same kind of scenario, im not to familiar with the ford systems thats why i ask.

 does this seem logical?

 

also a few people say this cannot be replaced and you have to replace the pump instead ive found them on eBay so has anyone replaced it?

$_57 (1).JPG

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  • 2 years later...

This is an old topic, but thought I'd ask anyway.

I have exactly the same symptoms on my S-Max 1.8, except after changing the filter I cannot get it to start at all anymore. Have bled the system but the diesel to the injector is barely a dripple.

Did you replace the fuel pressure valve and did it resolve your issue?

I haven't tried tapping on it yet, but thought I'd give it a shot later.

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Andreas and aholmes; just out of curiosity, how did you place new fuel filter gasket? Right way is between fuel filter casing and new fuel filter. Than you tighten the lid. Any other way causes air to be sucked in the fuel system, hence problems as described arrise.

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On 3/9/2019 at 7:02 PM, Ned_Mk2_1.8tdci said:

Andreas and aholmes; just out of curiosity, how did you place new fuel filter gasket? Right way is between fuel filter casing and new fuel filter. Than you tighten the lid. Any other way causes air to be sucked in the fuel system, hence problems as described arrise.

It's super easy to get it the wrong way round and then have MAJOR pain trying to work out why it won't start or if it does, why it keeps stalling.  (Speaking from personal experience) :wallbash:

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  • 8 months later...

Hi. i can agree. had ford smax 1.8tdci with starting issue. whole story was- client drove in gas station, and accidently filled up tank with some petrol, then got to different specialists, they flushed fuel system, but said that fuel pump has gone. the most funniest thing is that they changed fuel filter(the wrong way):D they had put the gasket on top of filter, and little o ring wasnt there at all.... and i couldnt understand why i have trouble code from rail pressure and its showing "no symptom". when i checked the fuel pressure it was 1000kpa(not enough even for cough) SO GUYS PLEASE FIT FILTER IN RIGHT WAY!!!!

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  • 8 months later...
On 4/9/2016 at 8:44 PM, aholmes28191 said:

carried out leak off test and all injectors seem pretty even and not a huge amount leaking off i would be happy that its not an injector issue,

 

today i thought id have another go and crack the code, found p0089 to be active even before trying to turn over, but removed filter housing and disassembled and inspected again (3rd time), found the smaller inner seal on the fuel filter appeared slightly deformed and a tad loose, more than i would have liked, so i got a new one from euros, fitment appeared far better,  but still seemed to start after drawing fuel through the pump, ran for about 5 mins then stopped while fuel pressure was 30,000 kpa at idle it instantly dropped to 1500 kpa (ish),

after a bit of tinkering about checking other bits and bobs, still no better stopped starting completely and just turned over, soooo , i had taken on the jeremy clarkson approach and then hammer came out of the tool box (i know a bit brutal and unnecessary) but starting to get irritated i tapped the fuel pressure valve on the rear of the fuel pump, car started straight after but died after about 10 mins, repeated twice with the exact same outcome, tried a few more times to confirm this was not a coincidence.

and lastly i cleared the DTC's removed the connector to the valve tapped it few times, tried to start the car (unplugged still) tapped again reconnected plug, cleared DTC once more and has started and ran since have had it run for 30 mins no problem and left for few hours went back and starts fine,

i used auto data to test the valve and it checked out 2.5ohms which is what autodata suggested

from being a jeep technician i know the pressure valve on the back of the pump closes when the engine is off stopping fuel draining back to the tank and filling the high pressure circuit with air , the valve sticks open hence the air lock. i assume the same kind of scenario, im not to familiar with the ford systems thats why i ask.

 does this seem logical?

 

also a few people say this cannot be replaced and you have to replace the pump instead ive found them on ebay so has anyone replaced it?

$_57 (1).JPG

Hello.

I also encountered the starting issue with my Ford Mondeo 1.8 TDCi, 125 hp. Initially it started for few seconds and then it cuts off. Even if I insisted in starting it, it won't. At some point I even used starter spray and help starting the engine. Eventually it did, but the next day, again it did not start at all.

P0087 Fuel Pressure control valve is the error shown on my scanner.

I removed the valve and saw that it has a transversal small hole on its threaded tip. Inside it can be seen like a thin rod. So in the form I found it, seems open valve to me. Should it be closed or open?! Does anyone know? And how should that hole look like, when it is closed, like in the picture or differently?

What measurement can be done on such a valve to know if it failed or still working?

What I also did is check the voltage to the cable connecting it, while the car's electrical contact is on. It shown 0V, while the other connectors which are linked to the fuel metering valve and the fuel return switch, shown 5V.

I intend to remove the tape from the wires powering the valve and see any interruptions.

I just want to exclude any other issue, and confirm the valve is defect, before purchasing a new one.

 

Thanks for your feedback!

 

Marius

IMG_20200828_165234 - Copy.jpg

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I have been having problems with my fuel system and have just changed Fuel Pressure control valve but I have yet to prove it is the source of the problem. I will put a few miles under the belt before conforming I have cracked it. I hope so as it is a £60 item.

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  • 1 month later...
On 8/30/2020 at 9:56 PM, Norbsa said:

I have been having problems with my fuel system and have just changed Fuel Pressure control valve but I have yet to prove it is the source of the problem. I will put a few miles under the belt before conforming I have cracked it. I hope so as it is a £60 item.

Did the control valve do the job please as I'm having the same problem with my 1.8 tdci. 

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for late reply, The Fuel Pressure control valve  solved my problem.

 

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On 11/24/2020 at 9:22 PM, Norbsa said:

Sorry for late reply, The Fuel Pressure control valve  solved my problem.

 

Fair play for posting back with an update, people often can't be bothered and your experience might just help someone else out one day. 👍

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  • 3 months later...

Thanks guys excellent information  , so it seems that the pressure control valve on the end of pump is a common problem? I am also having similar problems as mentioned above , it’s interesting that 1 person tapped valve with a hammer and the engine sprang into life! Apparently the valve is available on eBay despite people saying u have to replace the whole pump. Lastly no one mentioned at what mileage this problem becomes a regular problem? Mine is a cmax 1.8 tdci 57reg at only 92000 miles full service history (with recent fuel filter replacement ).  Thanks again folks  

 

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  • 3 months later...

How about installation instructions of the new Fuel Pressure control valve? Is it just unscrew old one and screw new in, then bleed the system? No need to reset/program ECU etc.? 🔧

Correct part would be VDO A2C59506225 i think.

I'm having exact same starting issues (Mondeo MK4, 1.8 TDCi, 92 kW) so I'm hoping that PCV replacement helps and if it's easy enough I could save money to do it myself.

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Just another question, any point of replacing Volume Flow Control Valve at the same time? Or does it seems that volume valve is not broken down so often than pressure valve?

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  • 1 month later...

Rawraw22 did the fuel pressure control valve help with your mondeo? I have a mondeo mk4 tdci 2.0 and having the code for this valve. Struggling to get it started. Just got a new valve and put it on today but not getting the system bled till tomorrow So fingers crossed. Did the control valve solve your problem? Thanks 

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