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Refugee from Mondeo via BMW. Safe haven found in Focus


trailertrash
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Hi all. Newbie here ‘though I was a frequent visitor to Talkford in times gone by. Nothing much happening over there re Foci, so really pleased to have found this excellent forum! 

I have had my 2010 Focus Titanium 5 door Auto for a whole week now and loving it. After my Mondeo Auto 130 TDCi got written off a year ago and suffering a 10 yr old manual BMW 318i estate since then, getting back into an auto Ford again is a bit like coming home. (Cue violins, wipe tear…)

There are a few minor niggles that I’d like some advice on.

1) The dash display sometimes flashes ‘P’ after starting up when I change into Reverse or Drive. There are no other apparent problems with the auto box; changes are smooth and happen when they should. It always sorts itself at some point, I hardly ever notice it change to ‘D’ from the flashing ‘P’. Sometimes it stops flashing if I slide the changer across to the ’S’ position and change manually, sometimes not. If I notice before pulling away and change back to ‘P’ then ‘D’ or ‘R’ it sometimes goes away, sometimes not until later. Totally random, in other words and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all.

2) The driver’s interior door lock button is stuck in the locked position, i.e. pushed in. The keyless system otherwise works as it should. The only apparent downside is that I can’t lock myself in, so-to-speak.

3) There is a slight clunk immediately after I close the driver’s door after getting in and before starting the engine. As I am completely deaf in my right ear I can’t get a proper fix on the sound but it seems to come from either the driver’s door or the rear passenger door. It’s the sort of sound that would be made if I could lock myself in.

4) Some of the wheel nuts have end caps, some have an open threaded hole. Can these caps be got or do I need complete wheel nuts? eBay seems to only have plastic covers.

I think that’s it for now, any advice or help or even a ‘hello’ would be much appreciated.

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The wheel nut covers a crap. Mine all rusted and dented so I purchased a replacement set of chrome nuts for £25 on eBay. The door clunk I have no idea about.i have the same 2010 Titanium Powershift 5 door in sea grey.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hi Sean, Thanks for the info, I've since noticed a good few threads re wheel nuts so I'll be looking at a several replacement options. Or maybe a scrapper. No rush, it's not like the wheels are about to fall off!

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should've stuck with the 10 yr old bmw the display issue may be a cluster fault which will get worse or a software fault the door lock button may have a broken wire as its just a multiplug all the wheel nuts are crap unless you buy the solid ones

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Quote

should've stuck with the 10 yr old bmw

Wow Arthur! What a strange thing for a "True Ford Enthusiast" to say on a Ford forum. You've no idea why I have chosen to change to an automatic, you've no idea what problems I had been experiencing with the BMW. Thanks for the advice nonetheless.

Edited by trailertrash
Change of heart
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If you've only had it a week you should take it back and get them to get the cluster checked and sorted and the door lock. the clunk in the door could be something come off or broke,

the wheel nuts are cosmetic but the other stuff in my eye's is quite important

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  • 2 months later...

Hi again folks,

Nothing really to report but updating as requested in case any of it is any use to anyone. The dealer, 40 miles away, said get it fixed locally and they'd cover it through the warrantee.

I got a mobile bloke to look at it, said the drivers door module was defective. £100ish for parts, poss 3 hrs labour.

The 'Flashing P' was diagnosed as a defective switch or selector. £35ish for switch, lots (can't remember) for selector. Labour, blank cheque.

The 'clunk' would appear to be the steering lock unlocking (keyless entry/start remember) as one day I saw the steering wheel move with the clunk. i.e. normal, like the ABS clunk after set-off.

And I've been totally dilatory and done nothing about any of it as everything seems to work as it should 3000 miles on, except I can't lock myself in if I want to.

The wheel nuts? Well they seem to work ok...

Thanks for your help.

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