Markval Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Had some erratic revs when idle and when driving I have had some slight judder and power loss when applying gas. anyway, a friend ran his diagnostic tool on it as the engine management light was on. It read faults with coil a and coil b.... I assume that matches the symptoms? Was wondering how easy it is to replace myself and what sort of price am I looking at? Cash is a bit short at the moment so would it be ok just to replace the 2? thanks for any help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean.kerwin Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 What focus model do you have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markval Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 How stupid of me. 2004 plate cmax 1.8 petrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james1089 Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Do ECU's fail on focus? more likely wiring fault both coils won't fail at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 when was the last time plugs were changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markval Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 Engine light has been on for a while so chances are they failed separately, plugs probably not been changed for a couple of years. Maybe longer. so I should replace plugs as well as coils? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Plugs / leads should be changed every 3 years 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 i would just replace the plugs, refit coils, clear codes and drive it, see if your running issue goes away and no eml light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markval Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 1 hour ago, iantt said: i would just replace the plugs, refit coils, clear codes and drive it, see if your running issue goes away and no eml light. Ok, so problem with plugs can cause the EML and coil error codes? will give that a go tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 spark plugs can and do cause coil packs to overload and not work, im saying change plugs to iliminate those first., as for replacing coils, your removing them when you do spark plugs, 1 bolt each, connector of and then pull off . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markval Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 5 hours ago, iantt said: spark plugs can and do cause coil packs to overload and not work, im saying change plugs to iliminate those first., as for replacing coils, your removing them when you do spark plugs, 1 bolt each, connector of and then pull off . so it's easy enough to do myself? I am obviously not a mechanic but I am also not stupid. Lol. plus my friend services his own cars so between us we should be good.....not that I mentioned it to him yet 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjt Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Bear in mind that plug gaps have an effect on coil packs. There have been a number of threads on here in which it has been stated that the specified 1.3mm gap generates voltages high enough to cause the coil packs to break down. I think this was referring to the 1.6 engines with wasted-spark systems. I don't know whether it also applies to the 1.8 which has individual coils mounted directly on the plugs. I believe Ford might have issued a service bulletin about it. If you are replacing the plugs make sure they are correctly gapped and don't rely on them being right out of the box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic113 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 just on the offside does anyone have the PROPER spark plug gaps sizes for both the MK2.6 1,6 snd 1.8 engines. They would be handy to note for people looking them as a ref. I actually must go out now and check what mine are set at. I think they are 1.0MM so might be incorrectly set. Not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Official ford specs are for 1.6 engine is 1.2mm the 1.8 engine is 1.3mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markval Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 Just updating here. myself and a friend dug deeper today. We removed the coil packs and tested each one produced a spark on a new plug. They all did. Then we tried all the old plugs, they all sparked. Was going to buy a new set of plugs and hope for the best. my friend, who has been working with engines for 30 years tested each cylinder to see what pressure it produces. Bare with me as I don't really know the technical terms. Cylinder 1,3 and 4 produced around 180psi but number 2 didn't do squat. A few calls to friends I the trade came to the conclusion that it seems like the exhaust valve. Either way it's been running on 3 cylinders today to drive it home the 20 miles from work. Think it's time to get rid now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic113 Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 On 19/04/2016 at 1:18 PM, iantt said: Official ford specs are for 1.6 engine is 1.2mm the 1.8 engine is 1.3mm Thanks Iantt Mine was set at 1.0 so now I have set it to 1.2mm. Thanks again. On 19/04/2016 at 7:12 PM, Markval said: Just updating here. myself and a friend dug deeper today. We removed the coil packs and tested each one produced a spark on a new plug. They all did. Then we tried all the old plugs, they all sparked. Was going to buy a new set of plugs and hope for the best. my friend, who has been working with engines for 30 years tested each cylinder to see what pressure it produces. Bare with me as I don't really know the technical terms. Cylinder 1,3 and 4 produced around 180psi but number 2 didn't do squat. A few calls to friends I the trade came to the conclusion that it seems like the exhaust valve. Either way it's been running on 3 cylinders today to drive it home the 20 miles from work. Think it's time to get rid now. I wouldn't get rid of yet if you are handy enough you could investigate further maybe the valves are sticking which could cause low cylinder compression as well I think. There is also a chance that may be there is a lot of carbon build up in there so a good clean may help. I would also check that the fuel pressure is about right just to rule out any restrictions along the fuel system as this might also cause low power and strange revs, The exhaust system is another area to look at as its the out maybe if the valve is sticking there could be a back draft that is chocking the engine is some way. Never say Never lol! anything is worth a check you never know. Good luck keep us posted on what happens anyways, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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