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mk2 1.6 Focus engine rattling with P000B and P0300 fault, low on oil


ultimate green rs
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A friend of mine has a 1.6 mk2 Focus (55 plate) VCT petrol and car started making a load of engine noise whilst on motorway. He got it towed back home as he thought it may have snapped the timing belt as it has done around 90,000 miles. The car literally sounded louder than a diesel, to make matters worse it never had an oil change in around 2 years!

I have checked it out with the fault code reader and it came up with P0300 (Random Misfire Detected) and P000B (Exhaust B Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1) fault codes. Checking it up this would have been the exhaust valve side of the engine. I had replace the engine cam timing gear solenoid, part no. 4M5G-6L713-BE and cleaned the other inlet side one out. Also cleaned out the camshaft position sensor and then noticed the exhaust side was very mucky. Started the engine back and it was still rattling. Out of curiosity I checked the engine oil level and it was below minimum, despite my friend saying it was ok when he last checked it :sad: So then now topping up the oil, the car now quietened down a lil, but still loud as hell. Opened the filler cap with the engine running and could hardly see much oil coming up, most cars if you do this the rocker cover starts to get misty with oil spray. It did clear the P000B code when I changed the sensor, but the P0300 code comes back with the MIL light even if you clear it.

I then removed the rocker cover then noticed the exhaust side has certain corners caked up in hard oil gunk. Next step I am going to do is engine flush, with oil and filter change to see if it would clear the noise. I am dreading he may have done worse damage to his engine.

First pic you can see the camshafts with the rocker cover removed. To the top of the pic is the timing belt end, inlet side to the left and exhaust side to the right. The exhaust side seemed dryish of oil compared to the inlet side. The second pic is under the rocker cover, to the left is the inlet side, the right exhaust side. You could even see bits of cake on the exhaust side.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I put engine flush into the oil and run the car on idle and still didn't do anything. I then removed the rocker cover then pour oil onto the cam lobes and hydraulic valve tapets. I also removed the VCT solenoids and poured oil down in it. Assembled it back and then the engine run quietly for about 5 mins then it went back to its clattering rattling diesel sound. I now think the Exhaust VCT cam is gone, was hoping not to have to change it.

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sounds like it its not an easy or cheap Job either new vct cam sprockets new timing belt kit etc parts are about £300-500 alone the vct needs regular oil changes so there could still be problems if the oil gallery in the head which you cant get to is gunked up that's it all over for the engine

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Does sound a bit like an internal oilway got blocked, probably feeding the camshaft & cams. Problem seems to have become noticeable quite rapidly, so it does not seem like gradual wear. No repairs will be any good unless the source of the problem is cleaned out, and it sounds like that might not be easy.

Sorry if this sounds a bit negative, but the moral is: Do not ignore oil changes. Ford may have increased the recommended service interval, but that just makes it all the more vital when the time comes, and some engines really do not like extended intervals.

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  • 1 month later...

I had end up changing the exhaust side VCT pulley. Started it up, it still had a slight misfire and rattly sound, although the rattly sound eventually cleared. However the car ended up smoking. oil level was at top of max as I changed this with the filter. I then changed the spark plugs. It was still slightly misfiring then loads of smoke.

I took the throttle body off and saw a load of oil in the air intake. Took the plugs back out then saw oil down in cylinder number 4. I am now fearing somehow the head gasket is gone or valve stem seals or something worse. First I have come across this.

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16 hours ago, ultimate green rs said:

head gasket is gone or valve stem seals

Unless it overheated badly prior to the repair, my money (all 50p of it!) would be on the stem seals. It looks like insufficient oil was getting up to the camshafts. I presume the oilways are now clearer, and with oil up there, it can get to the stem seals. The excess carbon, and/or high valve stem temperature while gunked up, could have damaged the seals. Piston rings would be the next bet.

I very much doubt if this is at all relevant, but on my old Ford Sierra (CVH engine) the seals could be changed from the top (no head removal). And, over about 6 months following the seal replacement, the oil consumption steadily dropped until I was putting in hardly any. I put this down to the piston rings freeing up gradually once the excess oil form above, stopped.

(When I bought that car, it was a high mile company car, with a half full 5l oil tin in the boot. Bit of a clue, really, but it was Cheap, so I bought it anyway! Turned out to be a good buy!)

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On ‎23‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 11:30 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

Unless it overheated badly prior to the repair, my money (all 50p of it!) would be on the stem seals. It looks like insufficient oil was getting up to the camshafts. I presume the oilways are now clearer, and with oil up there, it can get to the stem seals. The excess carbon, and/or high valve stem temperature while gunked up, could have damaged the seals. Piston rings would be the next bet.

I very much doubt if this is at all relevant, but on my old Ford Sierra (CVH engine) the seals could be changed from the top (no head removal). And, over about 6 months following the seal replacement, the oil consumption steadily dropped until I was putting in hardly any. I put this down to the piston rings freeing up gradually once the excess oil form above, stopped.

(When I bought that car, it was a high mile company car, with a half full 5l oil tin in the boot. Bit of a clue, really, but it was Cheap, so I bought it anyway! Turned out to be a good buy!)

your theory about valve stem seals seems right. I did the same to change an Orion I bought years ago that was smoking which had a 1.6 cvh. Was good you could do the seals on that engine without removing the head.

is it possible to remove the seals on this engine without taking head off.

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picture of the oil in the intake which rapidly turned dirty

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31 minutes ago, ultimate green rs said:

is it possible to remove the seals on this engine without taking head off.

You will need to attract the attention of someone who has worked on these engines. iantt would almost certainly know, Arthur (artscot79) may know. Adding a quote from them may bring them in.

But before any more work, is it possible to check that the upper galleries are now clear enough to allow adequate oil flow to all of the camshaft? Arthur was concerned about this.

Peter.

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sadly no you're have to remove the head to replace the seals I can't see ure vid on my phone its a pig of a Job taking the whole ti vct apart again

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