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Help please worried as dangerous!!!!


Mo1984
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Hi guys I have an issue and in need of some advice and hoping that someone has had a similar experience. 

When I'm driving the engine management light comes on solid orange then the engine goes quiet and then the steering goes extremely heavy to the point where it takes all my effort to turn even a little bit, this has happened whilst turning a corner today and a couple of times the other day and I'm very concerned that this may happen at a larger speed and cause myself or someone else serious damage!!!!

could anyone please help or advise, I think it may be the power steering pump but can't be sure

i await your response guys 😁😤

 

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Sounds like the engines cutting out on you!?

Need fault codes read to see why tbh.

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It doesn't cut out it goes back to normal shortly after

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Not ford related but I had this issue on my old car it was lose wire on fuse box under passenger footwell somebody heavy footed n kicked it.

check wiring or could be pump get code reader on for faults is best bet as this don't sound clever.

know when happend to me I was turning a Courner then all a sudden the stearing went heavy

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Not sure what version your cars is, but normally there is a separate warning light for the steering, I would expect a pump failure to light that one.

If the engine stops, as Tom suggests, then the steering will go heavy. However other electronics problems can cause loss of power steering. When my instrument cluster went bad and messed up the main CAN bus, there was one occasion when the steering went very heavy with the engine running. I was trying to reverse a trailer into a gateway at the time, it did not help! But it was nothing to do with the steering unit.

You need to look at the diagnostic codes. If you have a laptop or similar, you can obtain a competent diagnostic system for Fords for as little as £10.00, a bit better than £100 (per go) at a garage!

Plenty of info on this forum.

For example, see my post in

Peter.

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Thanks for your replies my car is a 2008 1.6 zetec climate, I'm not entirely sure where to go from here or weather the car is safe to drive or not, my laptop is broke so only have a home PC so near on impossible to read codes

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Yes as above there is a steering malfunction light on these, if the engine management light is coming on and the engine goes quiet I'd say it's cutting out.  It can bump start itself if you're rolling in gear.

I would say it's not safe to drive currently in case you have to steer around a hazard and lose steering (and possibly brake assistance) at the same time.  It is up to you though.

Unfortunately you need the codes read to determine the fault.  You're welcome to change the pump if you think it's that but be aware you may just be wasting money on that.

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Some of the ELM327 adapters available have bluetooth or wi-fi interface. So if your PC has one of these, remote diagnostics may be possible. There is some concern about the reliability & compatibility of these wireless adapters, the Forscan website has some useful info.

I guess the alternative is go to a garage, & be prepared to fork out whatever they ask for, just hoping they are honest & competent! (Some are, but many garages fail on one or both counts, especially with anything remotely electronic.):wacko:

 

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I would say, the OBD codes, can only read the OBD module (the instrument cluster records).

 

The problem is, if the error is elsewhere and has not been read by the Instrument Cluster, the OBD wont read it. You really need to use a modified ELM cable and FORSCAN to get the best results.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys thank you so much for the helpful responses but it turns out it was my after market air filter that was letting too much air into the system and causing a bad air/fuel mixture which therefore caused the car to cut out!!! Apparently if I now wish to have a performance air filter on the car to have the grunt I love so much I will have to have it remapped is this correct?? 

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Sounds very unusual to me. Have you given the car an extended trial with another air filter?

The air intake system downstream of the filter should be sealed, and as far as the engine is concerned, pressure drop over the air filter is the same as atmospheric pressure changes (ie due to weather or altitude). The MAF (air flow sensor) and/or MAP (air pressure sensor) are there to remove this effect, and keep the mix right regardless.

Bad leakage into the intake system after the MAF (which is usually right after the air filter box), combined with a filter with high pressure drop (part blocked), will certainly cause bad mixture. But I can not understand how a low pressure drop filter could cause mixture errors unless combined with some other failure.

And mix has to be pretty bad to make the engine just cut out. More likely to knock (pink) or run rough.

I think further investigation is needed before splashing out on a re-map. Except if the right specialist is called in to do the re-map, he (or she even) should be able to check for other problems.

Peter.

(30+ years experience of industrial pressure & flow systems of many kinds.)

Please keep us informed of progress. I may be missing something here, if so I would like to know what!

 

 

 

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Hi Peter since I took the air filter out and installed a new original air filter and extensively tested it I haven't had any problems or the car hasn't cut out whatsoever 

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Looks like your are on to the solution, but I still can't understand what was wrong with the other.

Was it a complete filter box replacement, with pipes & fittings, or just a filter insert in the standard filter box?

Sounds a bit like it was causing a major error in the MAF (air flow sensor) readings somehow.

 

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To be perfectly honest with you it was a air filter from Halfords and maybe I need to rethink and look at a full k&n setup pipes and all or what would you recommend 

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The Halfords one was just an insert then I presume. Seems like there was some major fault with it, had got contaminated or something, and had very high blockage.

If you want to upgrade the air filter, have a good look around this site, though I find the site search engine a bit cranky. And other sites. Just google the k&n part id. Or start a new topic, with a more relevant title, may catch the eye of someone who has done a similar job.

I find it a little hard to believe that just upgrading the filter will give many more horses compared to a good, clean standard one, but maybe at max rpm it might. An engine re-map might well need more air, so the combination of re-map & filter may work. I suspect to get noticeably more power will need the full package, but that is not my area!

 

 

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K&N, Pipercross or Green Cotton are highly regarded aftermarket filters.

Halfords 'performance' filters are cheap rubbish.

Sent from my SM-G930F

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I agree mate so if I got a decent set of one of the above with pipes I should hopefully not have the problem I had before 

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Decent performance filters don't restrict airflow and should never confuse the MAF sensor.

Sent from my SM-G930F

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There are mixed reviews on oiled performance filters and MAFs.  Some say the oil damages the MAF, others say it doesn't!

I've personally stuck with non-oiled foam filters on any engine with a MAF and never had an issue.

Seems an odd fault but glad you've got it sorted!

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DONT need remap for induction kit that's 100% fact...

I have always used pipercross can't fault then n sound nice 

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To be honest a remap isn't necessary but the more you do to bring out the best in your engine the more a remap can do to bring the best out of the whole new setup

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

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Hi guys I'm struggling with this maf issue, I want to change to an aftermarket air filter and have found a K&N 57i that is meant for my car but I can't seem to find the maf sensor which is integrated and plugged into the new K&N kit yet can't locate it or find anything on the internet as to where the sensor is located or many pictures of the same air box as me can anyone help please?!?!?!?

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