Jeremyc Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 So driving my focus home from work as usual and then the engine malfunction warning comes on and check engine light. Luckily I have my ODB in my car at all times so I check it and it tells me code: P0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance On the way home it cuts out about 5 times before I get home. Next day I go to get petrol and try to test the car. It seems if when the car is moving and the revs hit 5000 the engine light comes on. Also my speedometer and all the dials froze while testing this and I had to turn car off an on for it to work again but the engine was still revving fine while the speedometer wasn't. Do I just need a new cranksensor and which crank sensors will fit? I've tried re seating the sensor cable which did not help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyc Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Took it for a few more spins to test it. Seems to be misfiring randomly. When engine light comes on so does the battery light if that helps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 not really it could be one or more faults the crank sensor would cause issues if failing the dash cluster will also cause misfires if failing and throw random fault codes the coil pack could be faulty causing the missfire and the crank also the battery light shouldn't come on unless there's the wrong battery fitted or there's a charging issue so clear all the codes reset engine light and check the battery voltage would be my first port of call if the cars a ti vct revving above 4500rpm can cause a management light if the Ti vct is not working properly.....start with the basics as stated try wiggling the crank sensor wire and coil pack wires to see I it throws a code could be just a broken wire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyc Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Weird thing is that nothing has changed on this car in the past few months. It is literally the first time that anything has ever happened to this car. This makes it more peculiar to me that all these issues have occurred at once so I believe this must all be down to a single part which needs replacing ect? Mine is not a ti vct - I wish I had a turbo :) Going to have the battery tested tomorrow, and then possibly buy four spark plugs and see where I am at that stage. After that is must be either a coilpack or the sensor right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 not really a dtc code points you in the general direction the ti vct is a 115bhp 1.6 not a turbo rather than the 100bhp standard car.if the cars been serviced it wont be plugs causing the issue battery you can check youreself using the dash test 14.4v when idle then put on rear screen it should dip slightly then go up to 14.2-14.4v then do the dad test again without starting the car check the batt voltage on the screen 12.4-12.5v is about right.like i said the dad cluster can cause the same symptoms as can broken wires to save buying unecessary bits do the basics clear the codes check wires then if all okay drive the car then recheck the codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyc Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Heres a video which may help my explanation: Read the video description as well. I'm unsure what you mean by dad cluster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjt Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 I think he meant 'dead cluster' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyc Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 I took it to a ford specialist garage today and they confirmed that it indeed is my crankshaft position sensor. They said the plate had somehow broken off it so the sensor was hanging loose which meant whenever I accelerated or went around a corner it would cut out as the sensor was too far from the engine. They have said to fit a new one they would have to remove the gearbox to remove and install the new sensor they quoted 4-5 hours labour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 I had simular on fiesta 1.6 , the bolts that hold the crank sensor bracket were loose and box removal to refit bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyc Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 8 minutes ago, iantt said: I had simular on fiesta 1.6 , the bolts that hold the crank sensor bracket were loose and box removal to refit bolts. Did your gearbox have to be removed to fit the new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Yep, as its bolted from gearbox side, the gearbox and clutch/flyheel removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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