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Abs and eps fault


Jayo13
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Hi all, this is a bit of a long one.

The abs and esp light came on in my 2007 (newer shape) 1.8tdci mondeo,  so i brought it to a garage to get the fault read, it came up that the rear passenger side abs sensor was faulty.

So i ordered a new one and fitted it, but the lights on the dash stayed on, so i brought it back to the garage hoping that they could clear the fault with the laptop but the fault wouldnt clear and the mechanic said it was a wiring problem.

So today i went at it again disconnecting and checking all connections with a multimeter, with the car ignition turned on i checked the voltage of every connection, the last one i checked was the one that i fitted the new sensor to, the volt meter read 0v, unlike the opposite side which read 11.9v, so i started tracing the two cables from the connection that was showing 0v and sure enough i found a break in the negative cable about 6 inches from the connection, i cut the cable completely and crimped the cable back together, tidied it back into the loom and luckily the connection showed 12v on my multimeter, so i put everything back together thinking happy days and provlem solved.

But then i took it for a good 15mile spin and the lights on the dash stayed on, i was hoping that they would have gone out themselfes.

Does anyone know if they will in time go out or any tricks to getting them to turn off, just to save me another trip to the garage to have to get it hooked up to the computer or is the computer the only way to clear the fault from the dash?

Any help is much appreciated

Cheers folks 😊

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The fault code needs resetting, I've had very similar problems on mine, had to run in new sensor wire funnily enough on the rear near side too, seems like the early mk4s had a few wiring problems.

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1 hour ago, pragmatix said:

The fault code needs resetting, I've had very similar problems on mine, had to run in new sensor wire funnily enough on the rear near side too, seems like the early mk4s had a few wiring problems.

Thanks pragmatix, so does that mean the only way to clear it is with a trip to the garage to clear it with the computer?

Thanks for your reply 😊

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The only other method is to disconnect the battery for 20 mins but you will need the radio code and know how to reset the windows

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Cheers pragmatix, i have the radio code and know how to re-program the windows. I have heard of some people disconnecting the 2 cables from the battery and clamping the 2 cables together for 20 mins i mite try that later.

Fingers crossed il update after i do it 

😊😊😀😀

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Just disconnect 

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5 hours ago, pragmatix said:

Just disconnect 

 

5 hours ago, pragmatix said:

Just disconnect 

Just tired but failed to clear the fault, I disconnected the 2 battery leads and left them off for 30 mins, re-connected them, got into the car and unlocked the stereo and re-programmed the Windows. I started the car and took it for a spin to a nearby petrol station and checked the pressure of all the tyres and filled the windscreen washer fluid, when I was doing this I gave the whole engine bay a once over and noticed that the brake fluid was just below the min mark so I bought a bottle of dot4 and filled it to the max mark, got in the car and pumped the brake pedal until it was rock solid.

I know I have no brake fluid leaks as when I cleaned all the abs sensors apart from the new one I fitted, I checked all callipers and the underneath of the car is bone dry not even a bit of engine oil leaking.

I'm baffled so I think I'm going to just leave it a week or two and drive it as it is driving perfect (like a dream ☺☺) and if the fault does not clear it's back to the mechanic to get it plugged in and have to fork out more cash 😧😧.

Anyhow for the moment I think I have done all I can, but any more tips or tricks would be much appreciated il update if it goes off by itself or whether I end up in the garage again.

Thanks folks ☺☺

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On 7/9/2016 at 9:16 PM, Jayo13 said:

Just tired but failed to clear the fault

You will need a diagnostic system to clear that fault, I expect. And a basic OBD2 scanner will probably not do it on ABS.

For diagnostics, you have some options:

1) Go to a garage for a diagnostic readout. Free if they know you and are generous(?), up to £100 otherwise. (per time)

2) Find a mate with a scanner: Cost you a pint or equivalent maybe!

3) Get a powerful Ford specific system. Cost £15.00 for the interface. Needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available).

You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. Post here if you want more info.

Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage.

James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196

For an ELM327 adapter, see
https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/


you will also need a program called Forscan, its free and you can get it from

http://forscan.org/download.html

This system will keep you updated as to whether the fault still exists, and should be able to clear it if the fault is cured.

Peter.

 

Edited by Tdci-Peter
Updated tunnelrat link
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abs faults due to wiring or wheel sensors  if fixed do normally extinguish the abs light after a drive, you may still have a fault somewhere.

forscan and elm is worthwhile getting,

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Thanks guys, I just downloaded the fordscan demo app on my Samsung Android tablet I will play around with the demo before I buy the full app.

What do I need th connect the tablet to the car, is it as easy as just connecting a sub. (Sounds too easy lol)

Thanks guys for your posts ☺

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8 hours ago, Jayo13 said:

What do I need th connect the tablet to the car

If the tablet has USB (so you can connect USB flash drives to it etc.), possibly with an adapter cable if needed, then use that and get the USB ELM327, for example in my link above. Then it should be very simple.

The ELM is available in bluetooth (BT) & WiFi variants, but there are many reports about variability of quality, especially with WiFi. The Forscan Forum (on the Forscan website), has quite a lot about this.

I do not know of a guaranteed reliable source, it seems to be pot luck at present. But they are quite cheap, so if you have to try a couple to find a good one, it is not too disastrous.

Peter.

 

 

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12 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

You will need a diagnostic system to clear that fault, I expect. And a basic OBD2 scanner will probably not do it on ABS.

For diagnostics, you have some options:

1) Go to a garage for a diagnostic readout. Free if they know you and are generous(?), up to £100 otherwise. (per time)

2) Find a mate with a scanner: Cost you a pint or equivalent maybe!

3) Get a powerful Ford specific system. Cost £15.00 for the interface. Needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available).

You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. Post here if you want more info.

Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage.

James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196

For an ELM327 adapter, see
http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992


you will also need a program called Forscan, its free and you can get it from

http://forscan.org/download.html

This system will keep you updated as to whether the fault still exists, and should be able to clear it if the fault is cured.

Peter.

 

Thanks Peter this is all very good information, I am going to buy an ELM327 adaptor, I have fordscan downloaded on my Android tablet but when I get the adaptor I will download fordscan on my laptop.

Hopefully all goes well and I can fix and clear any faults.

Il report back once my ELM327 arrives and I plug it into the car, also that is a very good informative guide from James thanks for adding that in.

Thanks for your help ☺

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4 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

If the tablet has USB (so you can connect USB flash drives to it etc.), possibly with an adapter cable if needed, then use that and get the USB ELM327, for example in my link above. Then it should be very simple.

The ELM is available in Bluetooth (BT) & WiFi variants, but there are many reports about variability of quality, especially with WiFi. The Forscan Forum (on the Forscan website), has quite a lot about this.

I do not know of a guaranteed reliable source, it seems to be pot luck at present. But they are quite cheap, so if you have to try a couple to find a good one, it is not too disastrous.

Peter.

 

 

i just bought the  ELM327 from the link you gave me peter and i have forscan installed on my laptop now, it seems like a very good program, just have to wait for my   ELM327 to be delivered now so i can hook it up and play around with it.

is there anything else i have to do or is it just a case of connecting the laptop to the car using the  ELM327 , is there anything that i have to manually set up or anything else like that?

im watching a few youtube videos about forscan and it looks like an excellent program, the amount of different tests and other hidden things it can be used for are unbelievable. 

Thanks for all your help Peter i cant wait for the  ELM327 to arrive now so i can play around and get used to the program

Joe.

 

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51 minutes ago, Jayo13 said:

is there anything else i have to do or is it just a case of connecting the laptop to the car using the  ELM327

The ELM will probably come with a CD, most of which can be ignored (it will have standard OBD2 scanner software I expect), if you are using Forscan. But there may be a driver for the USB interface, which will need loading into your system.

But I would try it first, if your system recognises the ELM, then that is all it needs. Forscan will do the rest.

 

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5 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The ELM will probably come with a CD, most of which can be ignored (it will have standard OBD2 scanner software I expect), if you are using Forscan. But there may be a driver for the USB interface, which will need loading into your system.

But I would try it first, if your system recognises the ELM, then that is all it needs. Forscan will do the rest.

 

i got a mail off Steve from .spanglefish.com, he said my ELM will be shipped in the morning :-)

He also told me to download silicone labs driver, as i am new to this im not sure what it is or what it is needed for, so i told him that i have forscan installed on my laptop and he said to just try plugging the ELM into laptop and connecting to the car and if it connects there is no need for the silicone labs driver, im going to download the silicone labs driver now though just to see what it is and if i need it when the ELM is delivered.

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46 minutes ago, Jayo13 said:

he said to just try plugging the ELM into laptop and connecting to the car and if it connects there is no need for the silicone labs driver

Spookily, that matches my (slightly wild!) guess.

Systems vary, and some computers/tablets/etc recognise devices automatically from inbuilt drivers, some need a driver loaded.

If you have the silicone labs driver available, then you should have both bases covered. See how it goes, I don't think it will be too difficult. (A driver is a piece of software specific to a device (like an ELM), that allows your computer operating system to recognise the device, and make it available to application software like Forscan.)

 

 

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11 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Spookily, that matches my (slightly wild!) guess.

Systems vary, and some computers/tablets/etc recognise devices automatically from inbuilt drivers, some need a driver loaded.

If you have the silicone labs driver available, then you should have both bases covered. See how it goes, I don't think it will be too difficult. (A driver is a piece of software specific to a device (like an ELM), that allows your computer operating system to recognise the device, and make it available to application software like Forscan.)

 

 

I hope it is just a matter of plugging it in and it connects to forscan without having to use the silicone labs driver, I installed it last night and opened it just to see what it's like I only went as far as the first set up page and I had to make 2 selections, the first gives 3 options one Is for bluetooth so I know it's not that and the other 2 have 2 different usb options, I can't remember the second 2 options off hand but il take a screenshot of the page and upload it later to show you later. If it dosent work by just plugging in forscan it will take a bit of playing around with the silicone labs driver before I get it rite.

Every day is a school day though as the saying goes lol

😅😅😅

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well my ELM arrived today and luckily there was no need for any drivers, i just plugged it into the port in the car and the other end into the usb of my laptop and clicked the connect icon and yahoooo it connected.

As for the abs fault though it cant clear it, its saying there is an open circuit/short circuit from the left rear abs sensor, the sensor that its on about is new i only replaced it a couple of weeks ago and when that didn't clear it i went back and found one of the cables was broken, so i fixed it, i guess when i had the wheel off i should have checked the complete loom up as far as the rubber seal in the under-body of the car where the cables enter the car and are run inside.

Im thinking now of just going to the local breakers in the morning and getting a second hand loom and replacing it, the only thing is i don't know where or what the 2 cables run to inside the car, i pulled out the back seat of the car today and i can see they run towards the front of the car but i didn't have time to trace them as far as they go.

so now im wondering if they run to another connector and it will be just a case of uncliping the old and connecting the new or if they run into the back of a cluster and i will have to try and pull out the old cables and somehow get the new ones in there.

oh the joys of motoring :wallbash:

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48 minutes ago, Jayo13 said:

i can see they run towards the front of the car

It is 99% certain the wheel sensors go straight to the ABS module. And usually this is part of the ABS hydraulic unit.

I have not seen the Mondeo wiring drawing, it is just possible the ABS electronic module is included in the cluster, but check the ABS hydraulic unit first. There should be connectors in there, and the fault could be there.

Peter.

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theres one connector c44 before it goes through grommet to check, then that connects to main wiring harness of vehicle, my guess is there is still a break in the wiring between the abs connector and the connector c44, or even the other side of c44, if you have multimeter unplug both c44 and c4c the abs connector, and check for continuity of the wiring . c44 pins 6 and 7 , the centre 2 pins.

this should have been done first before buying a sensor.

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19 hours ago, iantt said:

theres one connector c44 before it goes through grommet to check, then that connects to main wiring harness of vehicle, my guess is there is still a break in the wiring between the abs connector and the connector c44, or even the other side of c44, if you have multimeter unplug both c44 and c4c the abs connector, and check for continuity of the wiring . c44 pins 6 and 7 , the centre 2 pins.

this should have been done first before buying a sensor.

checked all the connections and there is continuity between each cable and there is 11.9v going to the sensor.

im wondering now if it would be easier to replace the whole wiring loom for the abs, how hard of a job would this be do you reckon?

or maybe its just time to give up and let a garage sort it......the only thing i am dreading is what the cost is going to be :sad:

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so you have 11.9v at the blue wire(pin1) with abs sensor disconnected? if you have then , that wire can be assumed as being ok. therefore you need to concentrate on the return -ve  brown (pin2) wire

so you have continuity from pin 2 brown abs sensor end to pin 7 brown at connector c44? if yes then we need to check further up the car.

if you have forscan, can forscan not measure the speed of the wheels as you drive? this will indicate if theres a complete break in sensor reading or not, you could have a poor signal from the wheel bearing magnets( rust build up) giving a sensor fault

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yes you can , just looked on forscan.

2016-07-15.png

2016-07-15 (1).png

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37 minutes ago, iantt said:

so you have 11.9v at the blue wire(pin1) with abs sensor disconnected? if you have then , that wire can be assumed as being ok. therefore you need to concentrate on the return -ve  brown (pin2) wire

so you have continuity from pin 2 brown abs sensor end to pin 7 brown at connector c44? if yes then we need to check further up the car.

if you have forscan, can forscan not measure the speed of the wheels as you drive? this will indicate if theres a complete break in sensor reading or not, you could have a poor signal from the wheel bearing magnets( rust build up) giving a sensor fault

No forscan is not measuring the speed of any of the wheels I take it this could mean I have a complete break and have to trace the Brown wire and where it goes?

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that sounds strange if its not measuring any of the wheels at any speed? but only code is for one wheel.

 

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