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1.8 tdci glow plug loom


STEADS
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Hi can someone advise out in car this morning and had a few stutters then engine malfunction light comes on so pulled over and restarted and drove on the whole ok just the odd stutter every now and again .got home this afternoon and read codes p0380'was perm now gone to intermittent p1203 cleared p0490 cleared only one I can't clear is p0380 I've had a look at loom seems ok only thing I could see it seemed to be loose on the end usually where they burn out can't tighten it any but it seems to swivel is this normal or is there something in there that's loose .picture is not of mine but where the 8mm nut is on the end is where it is swivelling .anyone shed any light .

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7 hours ago, STEADS said:

only one I can't clear is p0380

Have you checked the glow plug fuse? A big 60A job in the engine bay fuse box.

There is also a relay, and another smaller fuse that sends the glow plug relay output status back to the pcm.

If possible, check for voltage on any of the glowplug connections while the glowplug lamp is on. Should be about 11v.

The P0490 is EGR elecrical fault. I had this & fixed it. If it keeps returning, see: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=38763

 

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Thanks Pete I'll have a look at that 

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Hi just seen your post I have a focus 1.8 tdci 2007 my glow plug wire has burnt out and been like this for over a year just never fixed it.

car seems ok what issues could this cause me if any as I have never had any fault codes ect on it hence why left it.

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14 minutes ago, Damien said:

my glow plug wire has burnt out and been like this for over a year

I do not really understand what the glowplug monitoring on these cars does.

There is no current monitoring, so glowplug condition (including failed plugs) can not be detected. (*)

There is a sensing signal from the Glowplug relay output, via fuse F28 in the engine fuse box, feeding the voltage signal back to the pcm. Thus the pcm can tell if the relay and main glowplug fuse are ok. And I would expect this to cause DTC P0380 if it was wrong.

But I also know that my main glowplug fuse had blown, and the light did not come on. The symptom was sluggish starting as Winter approached. But in fact, I found later that the starter solenoid was getting poor, and that may have been the cause.

Most of the time, these engines do not seem to need the glowplugs, and don't care. The high pressure fuel injection helps here, older, traditional injection systems really needed the plugs. But I expect if you tried starting in arctic conditions without plugs, you would need a very good battery & starter, to get good cranking speed, and it might take quite a while.

It would be useful to determine what is causing the P0380 DTC on Neil's car, since it did not show up on my car or on David's when the plugs are not working.

Peter.

(* Note: It would be just possible to estimate the glowplug total current from voltage drop in the main fuse and relay, via the sensing line to the pcm, but this would be difficult, and very error prone, so I doubt if it is done.)

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Peter not got round to checking your suggestion out yet but on the way home from work tonight it was stuttering again one thing I have noticed is that my glow plug dash light and esp light will stay on for around 15 secs after car is started also dash lights are slow to respond could this have anything to do with the relay you suggest or just coincidence car show no other codes than them 3 though .

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31 minutes ago, STEADS said:

my glow plug dash light and esp light will stay on for around 15 secs after car is started

I will try to remember to check next time I start the car, but I think on mine, if I start cranking before the glowplug light times out, then it goes out straight away, and stays out. I have not really looked at the ESP light, but I am sure it goes out in well under 15 sec.

I would think slow dash lights might mean a fault in the IC (Cluster), or in the HS-CAN bus that carries all the light status information from the pcm to the IC. Cluster faults can give a huge range of odd symptoms, as all the main car systems join up here.

What diagnostic system are you using, and what year is the 1.8, I don't think you said.

Most standard scanners (OBD2 type) will not see Cluster faults.

If the glowplug fuse id ok, and voltage is getting to the glowplugs, this might be further evidence of a cluster fault.

 

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The cars an 09 registered but 08 production I'm using Delphi on a lap top pretty good does almost everything on most cars but seems a bit limited on this one .

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4 hours ago, STEADS said:

Delphi on a lap top pretty good does almost everything on most cars but seems a bit limited on this one .

The system I have heard the most about, and used a little, is Forscan. When the system connects to the car, it should list the found modules, like pcm, bcm, ic, abs, epas, etc. If these modules are not found, they can not be diagnosed.

One problem is that Ford use two CAN buses, HS-CAN & MS-CAN, with different, non-standard pins on the diagnostic connector for MS-CAN. Forscan with a "modified" ELM can access the MS-CAN bus.

If interested, see:

No, I am not a Forscan or ELM salesman, it just seems a very good system!

Peter.

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  • 2 years later...

I've got a similar problem on my 06 Focus 1.8TDCI estate. 

 

The engine module light will not clear, starts OK. I changed the glow plug relay, now it takes a little longer for the warning light to come on. I've thought about changing the loom but as with the relay, there's a multitude of choices for that loom. My existing one has the big single plus that goes in the engine fuse box.

 

Anyone got any ideas?

 

TIA 

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2 hours ago, bobgibbs57 said:

I've got a similar problem on my 06 Focus 1.8TDCI estate. 

 

The engine module light will not clear, starts OK. I changed the glow plug relay, now it takes a little longer for the warning light to come on. I've thought about changing the loom but as with the relay, there's a multitude of choices for that loom. My existing one has the big single plus that goes in the engine fuse box.

 

Anyone got any ideas?

 

TIA 

Before you start replacing parts blindly you really need some basic diagnostics, if you have a Windows laptop you can use an ELM327 cable and free software called Forscan to do it yourself.  If you search the form you'll find som detailed posts about the Forscan solution (or you can pay a garage to check for codes, note them if present and clear the codes, that way if you get any future codes you know they're recent and not from 7 years ago).

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5 hours ago, bobgibbs57 said:

The engine module light will not clear, starts OK.

Almost any engine sensor or system can be the cause. You need the DTC (Code). Self-contained OBD2 code readers are very cheap, easy to use, and generally safe to use. They will read most bog standard engine code. But like Damian says the best system you can easily get is called Forscan, it is specifically for Fords, and goes far deeper than any OBD2 scanner. See:

 

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