HeadShoT2009 Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 As some of you know I had the car of the road due to suspension issue, but upon getting it fixed I discovered a new problem, the drivers side caliper is sticking. I've tried forcing it all the way in then letting it out but with no luck. So I've order new parts(disc's, pads and calipers) and a hose clamp. Now I don't have a problem with swapping the calipers other and doing a basic bleed, but the car could do with a complete flush and new fluid. Now I'm not 100% sure on how to do this, especially with the clutch sharing the same reservoir(I've heard that hydraulic clutches are a pain to bleed). Also is it really necessary to use Ford ESD-M6C 57-A sUPER DOT 4 brake fluid, or will these be just as good http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/comma-dot-4-brake-fluid-1l http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/comma-dot-4-esp-brake-fluid-1l Or would it be just as cheap(I mean taking in to consideration time, frustration, etc) to pay somewhere to do the flush and bleed? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 1 hour ago, HeadShoT2009 said: car could do with a complete flush and new fluid. Many years ago I bought an Eezibleed system, for this sort of job. In fact, for just one wheel, it is more nuisance than it is worth. But for a whole system it could be really useful. It avoids that horrible nightmare of level too low, and air in the master cylinder = Start all over again! Looks like the same system is still on sale as: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUNSONS-EEZIBLEED-EASYBLEED-Brake-Clutch-Fluid-Pedal-Bleeding-Systems/220934773348 If you are interested, I could check if my old system has the right adapter for my Focus Mk2 header, and if it looks like the current advertised set. One little trick I use is to tie a reservoir above the level of the bleed nipple, and make sure the bleed pipe rises away from the nipple. Then you can see the air bubbles coming out, and it should prevent air entry back through the nipple. There is a difference between DOT4 & Super DOT4, about 30C higher boiling point. Super DOT4 is also called DOT5.1, but is Not the same as DOT5. (DOT4 & DOT5.1 are inter-mixable, though the performance will go down to DOT4 level.) But any Super DOT4 should do. See: www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Brake-Fluid-Explained.pdf Before starting the job, check to see if all the bleed nipples can be undone. Though if a garage breaks a nipple off, they will probably just charge you full marked-up price for a new caliper,so that may be all the more reason for DIY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Price dependant, if you don't already have the kit and know what you're doing it's probably easier to let someone else do it. I never got on with the Eezibleed system, too much pressure I think, but I bought a 'One man bleeder' instead. It's literally a bottle with a long tube and one way valve, but is simple enough. Must admit I haven't done a clutch with it but done plenty of brakes with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadShoT2009 Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Huh, I assumed DOT5.1 was some new modern standard. Halfords do a brake fluid change for £37, but it doesnt mention if it includes flushing. So for the standard bleed just to get the new calipers working I can buy a small bottle of DOT5.1 to top up the resivoir? I'll have a look to see if i can find any videos for doing a complete change and flush on a mk1 and see if that will say about how easy the clutch is to bleed on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 25 minutes ago, HeadShoT2009 said: So for the standard bleed just to get the new calipers working I can buy a small bottle of DOT5.1 to top up the resivoir? Sounds fine to me. Whoever came up with the name DOT5dot1 was dotty (aka nutter)! Too many dots. DOT5 & DOT5.1 have almost the same temperature spec., but are different fluids that can not be inter-mixed. (DOT4 & DOT5.1 can be mixed.) dot dash dot dot space dash dash dash space dot dash dot dot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadShoT2009 Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Cool I'll stop by Halfords on the way home and pick up that comma dot 5.1 brake fluid. Is this the brake bleeder you were on about Gunson G4062 Eezibleed Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001KTFIWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IxR0xb5T9YTPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamweb Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 I replaced all my old chewed up caliper nipples with stainless steel ones makings it a lot easier next time.I know yours are new but stainless steel nipples are only pence. Sent from my iPad using Ford OC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 1 hour ago, HeadShoT2009 said: Is this the brake bleeder you were on about Gunson G4062 Eezibleed Kit Looks just like it. Mine must be about 30 years old! I have just checked, & mine has an adapter that fits the Mk2 reservoir. Tom is right about the pressure, I have vague memories of fountains of hydraulic fluid if you are not careful. It says 20psi max on the bottle, but I would use a lot less than that, say 3 to 5 psi. That would be from a wheel almost fully deflated. Definitely not worth it for one caliper. But for multiple wheels, you just open the nipple, let out a measured amount, then on to the next. Even when the bottle is empty, the brake reservoir is still full. Though after all the setting up, I expect Tom's way will be just as quick. Just have to keep a beady eye on the fluid level. Up to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadShoT2009 Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Might be able to get sunday delivery if i have trouble. Ive got a friend coming over so we are going to try and do it the old way 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadShoT2009 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 Got a big problem, when I undone the bottom slidding bolt on the passenger side caliper it was very tighted even after the intial sort of breaking the intial tension, thiught nothing of it and carried on. When I went to put it all back together the bottom bolt will not do up, well it does but only at a cross thread angle. So I think when I had it done they may have cross threaded it and when I undone it i damaged the thread. Now can I take the hub off without messing the alignment up and take it to have it rethreaded(think its called helicoiled)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamweb Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 The caliper is screwed into the caliper carrier so I think that's the part you are talking about.You don't need to take the hub off unless I've misunderstood. Sent from my iPad using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadShoT2009 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 I'll have to have a closer look, but yes I mean where the slidding bolts for the caliper screw into, but when doing it Saturday it looked like it was attatched to the hub. Mind you by this point it was getting dark(thanks rain) and I was not particularly think clearly by this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamweb Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Give the pins a good once over with grease. Sent from my iPad using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Caliper has probably been sticking if that pin is at a funny angle due to being forced/cross threaded. Best bet is just to get a new knuckle from a scrap motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 1 hour ago, HeadShoT2009 said: I mean where the slidding bolts for the caliper screw into, Yes, like William says, the pins screw into the bracket. This is attached to the hub by two (usually rather tight) bolts, and has to come off to change the disk. 2nd hand calipers usually come with this attached, may be the cheapest way to get one, unless you have a good scrappy nearby. (and some way to get there!) With the bracket off, and in a vice, it may be possible to correct the thread with a tap if not too damaged. The pins do not carry any of the braking force, that all goes on the bracket. If it can be tightened to the desired torque, and released, without stripping, then the thread should be ok. PS: I well know the feeling when a job goes pear shaped at the end of a long day! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigie53 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 if you do a full bleed, something like this is better for it on hydraulic systems, i used it on my old mondeo. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-Tester-Set-Bleed-Kit-Vacuum-Pump-Car-Motorbike-/252496232524?hash=item3ac9f2c04c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadShoT2009 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 9 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said: Yes, like William says, the pins screw into the bracket. This is attached to the hub by two (usually rather tight) bolts, and has to come off to change the disk. 2nd hand calipers usually come with this attached, may be the cheapest way to get one, unless you have a good scrappy nearby. (and some way to get there!) With the bracket off, and in a vice, it may be possible to correct the thread with a tap if not too damaged. The pins do not carry any of the braking force, that all goes on the bracket. If it can be tightened to the desired torque, and released, without stripping, then the thread should be ok. PS: I well know the feeling when a job goes pear shaped at the end of a long day! Maybe I have a different hub/carrier set up as the discs came off fine, just by removing the calipers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamweb Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 The caliper sits on a carrier/bracket that straddles the disc and incorporates the pads as shown in your photos.The bracket is removed by unscrewing two 13 mm bolts. Sent from my iPad using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 The caliper is secured with 2x 7mm headed pins, there is no carrier as its integrated into the knuckle. As already said, I reckon your caliper was sticking due to one of those pins being screwed in squint. Give me 5 mins and I'll go get you some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamweb Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Looking at the photos I did wonder if the carrier is integrated must be older than my mk1 Sent from my iPad using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamweb Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Number 7 Allen key. Sent from my iPad using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Here is a mk1 focus knuckle, removed from a 2004 vehicle. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamweb Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Well done stef I must of been thinking of the rear. Sent from my iPad using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadShoT2009 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 So is removing the knuckle likely to knock the alignment out? There is a couple of small engineering places that I could get a quote for them doing a helicoil repair(or they may have a better solution than that)? Just paid 65 quid to have it tracked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Buy a helicoil kit and do it yourself in situ without removing anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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