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P132B CODE


N3lly
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Hi guys, haven't been on here for a while as the mondeo has been faultless, until this morning 

Driving down the road, two minutes from start up,  there is like a dull pop and a loss of power,

The yellow glow plug light starts to flash

I drive it to my mates garage which luckily was a mile away and parked her up.  Out of interest I started it up,  which was straight away, and it ran smoothly. 

My mate put it on his code reader and it came up with" P132B turbo boost pressure sensor "

I took the arm off the actuator and the vanes seemed to move freely, 

Maybe its related or not, but I do get a fair puff of blue smoke when I first start it up..... 

I have read about cleaners, new turbos, new actuators, but was wondering what do you guys think

 

Many thanks Neil 

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21 hours ago, N3lly said:

My mate put it on his code reader and it came up with" P132B turbo boost pressure sensor "

I can not find a definitive definition for this DTC!

Most people seem to link it to sticking actuator, one case linked it to an electrical fault in the actuator.

But if the actuator looks ok, I would check the MAP sensor. This is the boost pressure sensor, and it is used by the pcm to confirm operation of the Turbo. So some faults in the MAP could look like turbo faults.

There are various causes for blue smoke, leaking valve stem oil seals for one. If the oil level drops, it would be worth getting the cause checked, though how to tell between turbo bearing & valve stems, I am not sure. An experienced mechanic might be able to detect excess play in the turbo.

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Firstly thanks for the reply, I drove the car all day today without an issue, until about 3miles away from home, loss of power and the light flashing again, I turned it off and restarted it, and it was fine..... 

the blue smoke on 1st start up has been there for quite some time, my mate has always said it's a valve stem oil seal, and that the blue smoke is just oil burning off that's passed the seal. Just didn't know if it was related. The cars going in for a service next week so might get a new actuator, and go from there, 

Any thoughts? 

Thanks Neil 

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2 hours ago, N3lly said:

The cars going in for a service next week so might get a new actuator,

I don't know how much a new actuator would be to buy & fit.

I would do more testing before committing. But then it is easy for me to say that, I have pressure calibration equipment to test MAPs, and diagnostic aids like Forscan (only costs about £15 if you have a windows laptop) to test the actuator & turbo.

If the garage is good, they may be able to do some diagnosis. A poorly defined code like P132B is not one I would entirely trust, on its own. Talk to the garage and see if they have anything sensible to say.

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Firstly thanks for the reply, I drove the car all day today without an issue, until about 3miles away from home, loss of power and the light flashing again, I turned it off and restarted it, and it was fine..... 

the blue smoke on 1st start up has been there for quite some time, my mate has always said it's a valve stem oil seal, and that the blue smoke is just oil burning off that's passed the seal. Just didn't know if it was related. The cars going in for a service next week so might get a new actuator, and go from there, 

Any thoughts? 

Thanks Neil 

Thanksfor the advice, I had a quick look earlier, forscan is a free app or download for free, it's the lead that cost about 15 quid on ebay 

Is that correct. 

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3 hours ago, N3lly said:

Thanksfor the advice, I had a quick look earlier, forscan is a free app or download for free, it's the lead that cost about 15 quid on ebay 

Yup, exactly.

Forscan is a wiki style collaboration of dedicated enthusiasts, it is a constantly growing and comprehensive tool for all Fords.

If you can use USB, I recommend using it, it is the most reliable system. One USB adapter is:

http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992

This adapter is "modified" with a switch that allows access to the MS-CAN bus. This bus goes to the car body modules like BCM (aka GEM), door modules, audio, etc. The switch is not needed to just read engine related errors and data, but can be useful in some instances. (2005 Mondeo may not have an MS-CAN bus anyway)

A bluetooth adapter that has been reported to work with Forscan is:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-KW902-Bluetooth-Scaner-OBD-Link-OBD2-Diagnose-Interface-Tester-white-UK-/281631334205

The bluetooth adapter in your last post sounds ok (ELM 327 compatible), I expect it will be just as good, but can give no guarantee! Wireless ELMs are a bit fickle, though WiFi is worse than bluetooth.

Torque is an App that is used by some on this site, and apparently works well, but is not as comprehensive as Forscan.

I expect you have seen the Forscan download site:

http://forscan.org/download.html

----

Does the car fail (into reduced power mode) regularly now, or is it intermittent?

If intermittent, I would investigate & test further before taking expensive action, but if the car is virtually unusable, then more urgent action is probably needed.

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does sound like the electric actuator , quite common on the later mk3 mondeo. ford never used to supply actuator separatley so whole turbo was fitted. but know aftermarket supplys the actuator separatley.

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Hi guys, thanks for the links, I will purchase the lead and download the software, and then go from there

the problem is intermittent, it can goes a couple of days without anything, then it will just happen 

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Ok finally got this to work as my laptop started messing around with the drivers for the ELM 327

Anyway im not sure what i was to do, and this is as far as i went,

The car has been fine for the last couple of weeks with no issuses at all

What is the next step??

 

Cheers Neil

codes.jpg

general.jpg

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9 hours ago, N3lly said:

What is the next step

Good question!

Nice set of results, absolutely nothing wrong at all! (now)

A really good answer is a bit harder to come up with though :unsure:. I can only give a few options.

1) Keep your diagnostic system handy every time you use the car, and try to take a reading as soon as possible after any event that seems relevant, whether the light flashes or not. Prompt diagnosis can be more informative than delayed, like when it gets to a garage.

2) Monitor the boost pressure using Forscan. Pick a regular drive that uses a good range of the car's performance. Start recording live data, drive, stop, stop recording & save the results. The data to select for the run would include MAP reading (boost pressure), VSS (speed), rpm, throttle position, and actuator duty cycle or similar if it has it. This would provide basic information on Turbo performance. If an error occurred, the difference may be visible.

3) Replace (or repair) the actuator regardless. I am not 100% sure the aftermarket actuators will be an ideal solution, there is some worry about how the OEM turbos are carefully set up, but the turbo is a closed loop control system, and that means minor errors in the loop are usually cancelled out as the loop operates, so are not important.

4) Replace the whole turbo regardless. If cost is (well) secondary to cure, this is the route to choose.

If it were me, I would choose 1+2, -> 3 if and when needed. But that would not be everybody's choice!

(BTW, Ian's advice (iantt) is right most of the time, probably more so than me!)

 

 

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19 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:
19 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Good question!

Nice set of results, absolutely nothing wrong at all! (now)

A really good answer is a bit harder to come up with though :unsure:. I can only give a few options.

1) Keep your diagnostic system handy every time you use the car, and try to take a reading as soon as possible after any event that seems relevant, whether the light flashes or not. Prompt diagnosis can be more informative than delayed, like when it gets to a garage.i cant really do that in that week as at the moment, where im working im not allowed anything with a storage device

2) Monitor the boost pressure using Forscan. Pick a regular drive that uses a good range of the car's performance. Start recording live data, drive, stop, stop recording & save the results. The data to select for the run would include MAP reading (boost pressure), VSS (speed), rpm, throttle position, and actuator duty cycle or similar if it has it. This would provide basic information on Turbo performance. If an error occurred, the difference may be visible.er how do i do that:blush:

3) Replace (or repair) the actuator regardless. I am not 100% sure the aftermarket actuators will be an ideal solution, there is some worry about how the OEM turbos are carefully set up, but the turbo is a closed loop control system, and that means minor errors in the loop are usually cancelled out as the loop operates, so are not important.

4) Replace the whole turbo regardless. If cost is (well) secondary to cure, this is the route to choose.

If it were me, I would choose 1+2, -> 3 if and when needed. But that would not be everybody's choice!

(BTW, Ian's advice (iantt) is right most of the time, probably more so than me!) i will try and sort out a trip at the weekend to see  what happens

thanks again:smile:

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Guy,

Firstly sorry for the long time in replying, please let me explain that ,basically where im working at the moment i cant have any form of phone or computer with me or in the car, so cant do any diagostics on the car when i have the issue.

I was at my mate garage and the light came on, he put it onto his Snap on diangostic kit and it came up with this

 

mondeo dia 3.jpg

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fter all this time and many "resets" later, the car has finaly decided to have the issue close to home,(not for want of trying) so i limp it home get the laptop out and this is what it came up with whilst running

Mondeo dia 1.jpg

mondeo dia 2.jpg

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so what do you guys think, turbo or actuator

 

Thanks in advance :smile:

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11 hours ago, N3lly said:

what do you guys think, turbo or actuator

My (rather wild) guess is actuator.

Electrical problems in this sort of actuator are quite common. Various internet reports suggest this actuator is a bit weak. Ian (iantt) went for actuator, he has more experience than me.

I don't know how good the access is, but if the linkage can be disconnected, stiffness or sticking in the turbo itself should be evident if moved by hand.

 

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actuator common.


linkage is easy to access, but be carefull you dont loose the clip. they can fly off and disapear when levering off. disconnect it and see if rod moves the turbo vanes fairly smoothly. if its stiff it could be the turbo, if not then the actuator
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Thanks for the advice guys,i think i did pop the clip off off and it moved freely, but will do it againg to be sure

Would this be ok to use or should i go to a parts place???

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDEO-2-0-And-2-2-TDCI-ELECTRONIC-TURBO-ACTUATOR-HELLA-6NW-008-412-/182355159006?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AMondeo&hash=item2a7536e7de:g:Xr0AAOSwstxU6mX1

 

thanks again

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just been outside, the actuator arm seems to move freely, i took the turbo hose off and the turbo vanes? seem to spin smoothly, but not freely if that makes sence,)you could only turn then with your finger)

this is what it looked like inside

i started her up and the arm moved in and out when i reved the car, if thats relevant???

turbo 1.jpg

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oh and BTW i am getting a cheper version of a terraclean as well

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13 hours ago, N3lly said:

the arm moved in and out when i reved the car

Sounds reasonable.

It is always hard to test turbos on the driveway, the engine needs to under a fairly high load to really bring the turbo in, but some movement when revved is quite possible.

It sounds like an intermittent problem, and electrical faults in the actuator can cause that quite easily.  I assume you have the 2l Mondeo?, I can not find a reference in this thread.

The eBay reference you gave is a bit misleading, it is not a new actuator, they are offering a reconditioned replacement exchange, (or to repair you own actuator, in another listing, for a bit less). Of course it could be that a repaired Garret actuator might be better than an unknown Chinese copy. And maybe better than a 2nd hand actuator of unknown history.

They reckon the actuator is a likely cause of P132B, but then they would, they are not exactly unbiased! But they do seem to show a 100% +ve feedback out of 362.

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