Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Focus MK2 1.8 Diesel Crankshaft Postion Sensor Replacement


Recommended Posts

Hi All

I have a fault with my Mk2 Focus 1.8 Diesel.  Basically it has a problem starting, I did post on this Forum a couple of mon the ago about the problem and tried most thing that were suggested but nothing has helped.  I have even had the car to Ford's who could not find a problem and I have had the car to a Diesel Injector specialist who also could not find a problem.

Long story short I think I have found a pattern to the issue and that is when the car gets hot and has been driven for more than 20 minutes.  Short runs to and from the train station the car is fine, drive over to the mother-in-law's and then back, leave the car over night and it will not start the following day.  Takes about 10 minutes before it will start and been worse over the Summer.

Had a look around on Google and I see from a lot of posts that other people have had the same or very similar problem (though on different Ford cars) and it has been the crankshaft position sensor.  So I thought grate nice and easy job should not take me no more than 30 minutes to change but lets check the Haynes manual first and this is where it got overly complicated (Not saying I can't do the work myself, just what they are saying that needs to be done seems to be way over the top).

So in the Haynes manual they say you need to put the engine to TDC, ok not a problem go-to section 2B for seeing how to set the engine at TDC and this is where it seems way over the top.

Step 1 Remove the Fuel Filter

Step 2 Remove the fuel Filter bracket

Step 3 Remove the crankcase top cover (And I am pretty sure that is what they called it), but I would have thought it was the CAM shaft cover.

Step 4 Use a ford tool and lock off the fuel pump.

The list goes on and on, to me this seems way over the top just to get the engine to TDC just so I can replace the sensor to see if it resolves the problem.  Checked on EuroCarParts web site and the cost of the sensor is £40.00ish and from Ford £62.00. To me this is a small price to pay if this fixes the problem.  If it does not then I am not to much out of pocket.  But reading what Haynes say if I put it into Ford this is going to cost probably over £300.00 and that is to much money to pay out if it is not going to fix the problem.

Does anyone know if I do need to set the Engine to TDC to replace the sensor, and if I do is there an easier way then what Haynes tell you how to do it.

Thanks in advance for any help



Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, RichardDM said:

Haynes manual they say you need to put the engine to TDC

Heaven knows why it has to be set to TDC, maybe there is some obstruction that only allows removal at TDC?

I have looked at a version of the Ford Workshop manual:


It also tells you to set to TDC, but no need to lock fuel pump or remove cam cover. That is just for timing belt change. It does say use the tool 303-193 (drawn in Haynes), to locate TDC, and suggests the alternator has to be removed to get this in, though Haynes says just uncouple the drive shaft extension.

So it does not matter which TDC (camshaft sync) is used, just piston no.1 at tdc. Viewing the camshaft (inlet/exhaust overlap should be centred close to tdc) or probing down a glowplug hole could also do it, but are not really much easier.


However, memory of a previous hot or long run the following morning does not really sound like CKP (crank sensor) to me. I don't quite know how it could do that. Yes, it could be temperature sensitive, but to have a lasting effect overnight?

I would suspect air entry into the fuel system first, leaking in while the engine was hot, then remaining there till the next start. But perhaps you have tested & eliminated this?

(The fuel system from tank to pump is under suction at all times (running or stopped) in these cars, especially around the elevated fuel filter. Any leak will allow air in.)

I would be interested to know why the CKP needs TDC setting. (And also if the CKP could cause this fault. I do not rule that out, it just seems inexplicable to me at the moment!)



  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive never set to tdc when ive replaced them , ford ones have a protrusion that rests on flywheel giving the correct clearance, the when engine starts the protrusion wears off. takes all of 5 mins to repkace, non ford ones may be flat , then all you do is adjust clearance can be a bit tricky as the sensor wants to attract its self to flywheel while tightening bolt

but as peter says it does sound like air in fuel.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuel air had been suggested before and I have checked the fuel lines under the bonnet and I have had the fuel filter changed (though when they replaced itcthey did not prim the fuel back into the filter and had trouble getting it going again). It is only a problem after the enginengetschot and I saw driven for a period of time say 20 to 30 minutes and it does not have to be Hugh speed either.  I thought it might have been the pump in the tank but if it's was that I would have thought I would have the problem all the time.

When the car is hard to start she turns over and it wants to start but then stakes again, and white grey smoke comes out of the exhaust and smells like burnt oil.  When I say stale I will run at normal idle for about 1 second and then dies.  Tried holding down the gas pedal does not help.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...