Subwoofer..more thud thud rather than bang bang!

[Jordan99]

Hi all, finally got round to fitting my sub and amp, all plugged in a working. However, it's not as powerful as I expected! I sold my old sub with built in amp which was a 1000watt sub. The new sub and amp is also 1000watt but no where near as powerful! I'll attach photos of new and old. Like I say it's all plugged in and working but not delivering the bang I was hoping for! I've had a fiddle with the setting on the head unit, turned everything up and town, same on the amp. Didn't really make a difference! Any help would be great! 

[Lenny]

@Jordan99

The sub you have fitted is a sealed enclosure it gives out resonating bass.

The other sub enclosure you had was poerted which gives out loud noise rather than resonated.

also check the amplifier manual; it may need to be tuned for the correct level of Ohms. I had to do this with my JL Audio amplifier's 

 

[Jordan99]

My amp didn't come with any manuals..just some screws for fitting lol...ill see if I can find a manual only tomorrow. I hope I can make it better, at the moment to bass coming from the car is better than the sub! 

[Lenny]

Just now, Jordan99 said:

My amp didn't come with any manuals..just some screws for fitting lol...ill see if I can find a manual only tomorrow. I hope I can make it better, at the moment to bass coming from the car is better than the sub! 

Google search the make and model as there may be a PDF version, also check the amplifier for input sensitivity switch try changing it from "hi" to "low"

[Jordan99]

It does have a switch...csnt remember what symbols are on it. Also, you said my new sub is sealed..it does have a hole in the back? I'll see if I've got another picture 

[Jordan99]

[Lenny]

9 minutes ago, Jordan99 said:

It does have a switch...csnt remember what symbols are on it. Also, you said my new sub is sealed..it does have a hole in the back? I'll see if I've got another picture 

😯 it is a ported sub, 

And it's the same size as your head according to that picture😉 

I'm sure it's just settings on the amplifier is the problem, if you turned the "input sensitivity" screw then it will need re-calibration for optimum performance as the ohms will be off,

The screw is wisker sensitive; to calibrate you just need a audio test  tone CD and a multimeter, if required I can lend you both for the cost of shipping.

to calibrate; Disconnect all Speakers, plug multimeter in to the speaker outputs on the amplifier and play the 50hz audio test on replay, then adjust input sensitivity until the multimeter reads the correct voltage output to match the Ohms of your sub.

[Jordan99]

10 hours ago, Lenny said:

😯 it is a ported sub, 

And it's the same size as your head according to that picture😉 

I'm sure it's just settings on the amplifier is the problem, if you turned the "input sensitivity" screw then it will need re-calibration for optimum performance as the ohms will be off,

The screw is wisker sensitive; to calibrate you just need a audio test  tone CD and a multimeter, if required I can lend you both for the cost of shipping.

to calibrate; Disconnect all speakers, plug multimeter in to the speaker outputs on the amplifier and play the 50hz audio test on replay, then adjust input sensitivity until the multimeter reads the correct voltage output to match the Ohms of your sub.

Haha that's my brother photo, I'll let him know what you think ;) thank for the offer but I wouldn't want to loan your equipment. Too much hassle if either myself or the shipping company damages it! Where can I buy one though? I've Googled the words I saw on the instruction manual.. Didn't really get me far lol 

[Lenny]

1 hour ago, Jordan99 said:

Haha that's my brother photo, I'll let him know what you think ;) thank for the offer but I wouldn't want to loan your equipment. Too much hassle if either myself or the shipping company damages it! Where can I buy one though? I've Googled the words I saw on the instruction manual.. Didn't really get me far lol 

No problem, 

what's the model and make of the amplifier?

Heres some links the stuff isint that expensive

 

Audio Test CD: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audio-Rattles-Vibrations-Test-Tones-CD-/301085686649?hash=item461a1afb79%3Ag%3A4ksAAMXQlgtS6--C&_trkparms=pageci%3Accb906c7-fd8e-11e6-a354-74dbd1807805%7Cparentrq%3A83ceac8815a0a605b71b6f7effea45b3%7Ciid%3A2&redirect=mobile

 

Multimeter:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-MM20-Digital-AC-DC-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Test-Leads-Probe-Thermocouple-/321734157786?hash=item4ae8d9a5da:g:iSsAAOSwBahVOAiO

 

May need to purchase a 9v or AAA Batteries to power the multimeter seperatly in local shop or from TV remote 😉

 

Videos on YouTube will explain it aswell, also don't ever play it through Speakers as low Hz levels can instantly pop Speakers or damage the cone hence the reason for calibration in the first place to optimise performance without any risk of damage.

https://youtu.be/eEHgrFb2e9o

[Jordan99]

6 hours ago, Lenny said:

No problem, 

what's the model and make of the amplifier?

Heres some links the stuff isint that expensive

 

Audio Test CD: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audio-Rattles-Vibrations-Test-Tones-CD-/301085686649?hash=item461a1afb79%3Ag%3A4ksAAMXQlgtS6--C&_trkparms=pageci%3Accb906c7-fd8e-11e6-a354-74dbd1807805%7Cparentrq%3A83ceac8815a0a605b71b6f7effea45b3%7Ciid%3A2&redirect=mobile

 

Multimeter:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-MM20-Digital-AC-DC-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Test-Leads-Probe-Thermocouple-/321734157786?hash=item4ae8d9a5da:g:iSsAAOSwBahVOAiO

 

May need to purchase a 9v or AAA Batteries to power the multimeter seperatly in local shop or from TV remote 😉

 

Videos on YouTube will explain it aswell, also don't ever play it through speakers as low Hz levels can instantly pop speakers or damage the cone hence the reason for calibration in the first place to optimise performance without any risk of damage.

https://youtu.be/eEHgrFb2e9o

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008N53NAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

this is my amp. I found a multimeter at Halfords for £7, Bargain!. And i believe ive found the cd free on the internet, download it and pop it on my usb ;) im going to watch the video before i do anything though 

[Lenny]

2 hours ago, Jordan99 said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008N53NAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

this is my amp. I found a multimeter at halfords for £7, Bargain!. And i believe ive found the cd free on the internet, download it and pop it on my usb ;) im going to watch the video before i do anything though 

There's a few videos on YouTube I suggest watching a few to get the best view on it.

they say CD is best as it's not compressed but USB should be good enough.

[Jordan99]

21 minutes ago, Lenny said:

There's a few videos on YouTube I suggest watching a few to get the best view on it.

they say CD is best as it's not compressed but USB should be good enough.

Yeah I've seen a few videos...i think I've got the gist of it. I'm going to get the multi meter from Halfords tomorrow. Hopefully tune the sub at the weekend. I'll let you know how I get on. It can't get any worse than what it is now haha got my wind deflectors fitted today though...quite impressed! Little bit of plastic makes such a difference 

[Jordan99]

[tazzman600]

Hi Jordan. Out of interest how much did the amp and sub cost? Just what kind of sub filling are you after?
Are your door Speakers running from an external amp or from the headunit?
Lenny has given you the very best info. I'm just wondering why you didn't but a sub with its own built in amp?
I personally have the Alpine SW-315 which is an 8" sub running 100 watts RMS. It is in the boot of my modeo and it sounds better In it than it did in my focus. The 1st movement of Tocata and Fugue makes my car vibrate like I've not experienced for many many years. £120 to buy but worth £1200.

[Lenny]

6 hours ago, Jordan99 said:

The Team Hecko wind deflectors look great; especially with rear tinted Windows as they carry the tinted stream to the front, I have them fitted on mine aswell,

An ST rear spoiler would go nicely and it's a straight swap. 

[Jordan99]

1 hour ago, Lenny said:

The Team Hecko wind deflectors look great; especially with rear tinted Windows as they carry the tinted stream to the front, I have them fitted on mine aswell,

An ST rear spoiler would go nicely and it's a straight swap. 

How did you know they're team hecko ones lol but yeah I'm impressed...i do want to do a full st kit conversion as you could probably guess by my other posts. I'm planning (and hoping) the car will pass the mot with no issues in April. If it does ill start big spending of body panels, suspension, wheels and maybe look into a remap. Not sure if it's worth it, but I'll look and ask around closer to the time. I will also be using a lot of your step by step guides if the mot goes well! 

[Lenny]

5 hours ago, Jordan99 said:

How did you know they're team hecko ones lol but yeah I'm impressed...i do want to do a full st kit conversion as you could probably guess by my other posts. I'm planning (and hoping) the car will pass the mot with no issues in April. If it does ill start big spending of body panels, suspension, wheels and maybe look into a remap. Not sure if it's worth it, but I'll look and ask around closer to the time. I will also be using a lot of your step by step guides if the mot goes well! 

😅Ive been on here seven years now mate, i can tell the parts from a single picture, there's also only two brands of wind deflectors available and the others are ClimAer which are quite pronounced in there curve, your Team Hecko are much sleeker👌

hopfully the MOT goes well for you, I'm going back to 16's next week, It's looking like I'm going to be selling the Genuine Facelift 18's would be looking 520GBP shipped. Was planning to keep them as I spent 1487gbp purchasing brand new from ford but I don't see myself using them in the next 3-5 years as I'm a home owner with three kids and a wife to wage for 😅

[Jordan99]

7 minutes ago, Lenny said:

😅Ive been on here seven years now mate, i can tell the parts from a single picture, there's also only two brands of wind deflectors available and the others are ClimAer which are quite pronounced in there curve, your Team Hecko are much sleeker👌

hopfully the MOT goes well for you, I'm going back to 16's next week, It's looking like I'm going to be selling the Genuine Facelift 18's would be looking 520GBP shipped. Was planning to keep them as I spent 1487gbp purchasing brand new from ford but I don't see myself using them in the next 3-5 years as I'm a home owner with three kids and a wife to wage for 😅

Haha with age comes wisdom lol, yeah I remember you saying the cost of tyres is too much. I'm not looking to spend that much on a set of wheels, I'm assuming yours are in mint condition. I'm happy with a set in need of a refurb. They don't even have to be genuine! So long as they look pretty...and don't loose in the competition of wheel and pot hole! I think she'll pass the mot, few jobs I've got to do that I know of are the rear brake shoes and handbrake adjustment, sidelight build and front indicators are more white than amber! Speaking of break shoes, I got some off eBay, new shoe on top of old they don't look the same size! Where can I get some from with out paying over the odds? 

[Lenny]

25 minutes ago, Jordan99 said:

Haha with age comes wisdom lol, yeah I remember you saying the cost of tyres is too much. I'm not looking to spend that much on a set of wheels, I'm assuming yours are in mint condition. I'm happy with a set in need of a refurb. They don't even have to be genuine! So long as they look pretty...and don't loose in the competition of wheel and pot hole! I think she'll pass the mot, few jobs I've got to do that I know of are the rear brake shoes and handbrake adjustment, sidelight build and front indicators are more white than amber! Speaking of break shoes, I got some off ebay, new shoe on top of old they don't look the same size! Where can I get some from with out paying over the odds? 

Try logging on to fordpartsuk.com or micksgarage.com they stock every part usually from a few manufactures so you have a choice of brand on each part.

if i was on the mainland of the UK I could sell them for 90GBP cheaper as the shipping across is increasing cost, plus there's loads of ST's over there perhaps 1200 over here if that, 

The focus looks good with just lowering springs and an ST rear spoiler, If I was doing it again if save up for a performance model then build on that.

I do recommend fitting 18's atleast once in life to have had the experience of improved handling 

but if economy becomes more important and you want to spend as little as possible on the vehicle then 16" are better.

[Jordan99]

Both of those sites are quite expensive, I think Halfords is my best bet so far for Brake shoes. There are loads of st's on the mainland, I've seen loads for breaking. Everyone I've Messaged so far have said the wheels are already gone haha I'll keep looking ill find a set at some point. As for economic, I don't mind spending that little bit more if I enjoy it, I mean my last focus was only getting around 20 mpg, roughly 150 miles to a tank. But I loved it so it was fine! Haha 

[Jordan99]

Sorry for the late reply on this, finally got round to attempting to tune the sub and amp. I've got the sound sample and multi meter. Turned off all bass boost, faders ect...put the sound sample on but the multi meter is reading zero. The amp has power when turned on, I've checked all the wired are connected properly. Can't figure out why there's no sound going to the sub? Any ideas? 

[Lenny]

5 minutes ago, Jordan99 said:

Sorry for the late reply on this, finally got round to attempting to tune the sub and amp. I've got the sound sample and multi meter. Turned off all bass boost, faders ect...put the sound sample on but the multi meter is reading zero. The amp has power when turned on, I've checked all the wired are connected properly. Can't figure out why there's no sound going to the sub? Any ideas? 

Is the RCA output turned on in the headunit settings it may also be called a sub output.

you were getting sound from the sun before which has led to this point of calibration, 

Have you set the audio level to 15 

[Jordan99]

I thought there was sound, but now I think it was just the speaker from the car instead. I'll have to have a fiddle with the setting on the head unit regarding the rca & I had the column turned up 3/4 of the way so around 20 

[Lenny]

1 minute ago, Jordan99 said:

I thought there was sound, but now I think it was just the speaker from the car instead. I'll have to have a fiddle with the setting on the head unit regarding the rca & I had the column turned up 3/4 of the way so around 20 

The multi meter should help with checking the RCA outputs are working.

Once that is confirmed then try lowering the input sensitivity screw while using the multimeter 

the amp can hardly be blown since it's still showing a light on it and I hate to say but by turning up the input sensitivity screw without monitoring it with a multimeter could affect the long term functionality of the amplifier.

I hope the issues resolve for you mate, just a case of trying all connections and sound levels first. 

Also check the input sensitivity on the amplifier should be set to "low" 

[Jordan99]

Finally got round to checking the setting on the head unit again today. I found the subwoofer setting to turn it on or off, that's set to on. Once again checked all other setting such as bass boost etc are turned off. Switched the amp to lpf, the multi meter is still saying 0. Could this be a wiring issue? Maybe the rca cable is connected to the wrong wire? I doubt the sub or amp is faulty as they were purchased brand new at Christmas.