Fiesta 2006 1.4 Zetec timing belt change.

[HenryV]

Thanks for your interest and your comment Albert,

If you take on the job, I wish you every success. I'll also answer any questions that I can but bare in mind that I'm only a hobbyist and not an expert by any means. There's some extremely knowledgeable/experienced guys on here who I'm sure would be more help than myself.

Of course, your engine is a diesel, so I presume that there'll be differences to the petrol Zetecs. I've never owned and hardly ever driven a diesel, let alone fixed one. I wouldn't know where to start with one.

I will give you some general tips/warnings though:

Do lots of research and make sure you understand the job before beginning it.

The job is NOT easy. I'm not a car mechanic and I found the job very 'trying'.

Allow lots of time because there will be hurdles/stumbles along the way.

Make sure you have all the parts/tools before beginning.

Form a plan for tackling the crankbolt !

A low range torque wrench is a tool that I didn't have but 'had to' buy along the way.

Be motivated by the challenge and not by any financial savings. The job for an amateur like myself isn't really financially viable. You can save money on parts and labour but when you consider your own time on the job, it might not add up;  I must have spent 30hrs over 3 weekends actually doing the job and countless hours researching and locating/buying parts and tools.

Best wishes,

H..

[HenryV]

Hi folks,

Saturdays progress;

The first job was to torque up the water pump bolts to 10nm with my new 2-24nm torque wrench

             

 

Pump fitted

            

 

Next, I swapped the old cam bolts for the new ones but left them loose

 

The new bolts were a slightly different colour which meant that there wasn't any chance of mixing them up

New bolt in camshaft on the right

 

Both in

 

Next, I cleaned the pulleys with meths

 

Crankshaft pulley  and timing belt on next

               

 

Lower timing belt cover next

 

Crankshaft pulley on

 

 

New crankbolt started in thread

 

Timing/tightening pin screwed in

 

Next, I tightened the bolt to the specified 45nm

 

The next job was to turn the bolt a further 90 degrees

Notice the letter B on the bolt in the first pic is just before '12 o'clock' ?

 

I used my homemade 'Crankbolt Henry' tool to turn the bolt again

The letter B is now just before 3 o'clock, meaning it has been turned through 90 degrees 

 

 

Back soon, it's brew time  ..

 

 

[HenryV]

... Don't forget by the way, that the cam timing plate is still in position from the previous weekend

 

Next job was to install the new timing belt tensioner

 

Tensioner bolt tightened to specified 28nm. Note the pin, which prevents the tensioner springing open (for now at least)

                    

 

At this stage, we have the timing belt in position, the crankshaft pulley on and the tensioner with the pin in place.

                       

 

Our next job was to remove the pin which will release the tensioner pulley onto the back of the timing belt. This tightens the belt in position and moves/spins the camshaft pulleys to the correct position. Remember that the cam pulleys are loose, so the tensioned timing belt can move/settle the pulleys in place

 

Pin removed/belt tensioned

        

 

I next checked that the crankshaft is still up to the pin

Next was to tighten the camshaft pulley bolts. The correct torque is 60nm but I decided to put them at 50nm to start with, then check the timing before going up to 60nm.

It's a good job I did because I made an error/mistake at this point;

When tightening the cam pulley bolts, it's important to apply equal pressure in both directions. The pulley holding tool is opposing the torque applied by the wrench and vice versa.

If the torque from the wrench isn't offset/dampened/opposed/negated by the holding tool, then the camshaft can be advanced slightly when the pulley is fastened.

This is what happened on my first attempt. The timing plate became very tight in one of the camshafts.

So, I slackened the bolt and used an open ended spanner to turn back the camshaft by a very tiny amount

I then asked my dad to monitor the fit of the timing plate in the shafts whilst tightening both bolts to 50nm (for now)

 

Then I removed the timing pin and (using the crankbolt) advanced the engine 2 turns (which rotates the camshafts 1 turn) and re-checked the timing with the pin and plate. It was absolutely spot on.

Then I tightened the cam bolts to 60 nm whilst my dad monitored the timing plate...

      

       

...and repeated the timing check with the pin and plate (yet) again.

It was spot on !

 

Back soon,

H..

 

[HenryV]

I now reckoned we had the timing sorted so it was time to get the timing belt top cover back on (note the long bolt that goes in the top centre hole, the other 8 being the same length and all 9 being torqued to 9nm)

 

So I put it in place..

 

Before realising that the engine mount locates behind the cover so I installed the mount first, then the cover

    

 

      

 

Then the other engine mount

 

Then the alternator bolts torqued (don't forgot the one at the bottom which the alternator pivots on)

    

 

Next was to re-attach the water pump pulley. Ford instruct to only finger tighten the bolts until the pulley is under tension from the alternator belt. I figure this is because it isn't easy to tighten the bolts whilst the pulley is free to spin (but it's not too easy to tighten when it's under tension either imho)

 

At this point we packed up for Saturday because I was determined to get to the local pub quiz (see earlier post).

We'd sort of reached an ideal break off point, or a 'straight edge' as they say round here (Lancashire).

The next job we had planned for Sunday was the stretch belts, which we figured we'd better not rush into at 8pm on a Saturday.

I made it to the quiz by the way. We came 4th out of about 4 teams

But the beer was good

 

 

[HenryV]

...With a 'slight' hangover, I awoke on Sunday with a sense of keenness and optimism that I hadn't experienced since my apprentice days all those years ago. Added to this, the weather was 'outdoor mechanics delight'

Main/large accessory drive belt was the next job, so we studied the instructions of Laser tool 5919 (the tool I have isn't actually a Laser tool but a cheap copy I suspect, meaning that the instructions suffice )

This tool is operated from the water pump pulley. The leverage/stretch pressure is applied with the tool that fits over the said pulley. There's a guide tool to help the belt onto the large crankshaft pulley (the crankshaft pulley on these engines with aircon is a double pulley)

First I clamped (nipped) the water pump pulley tool onto the water pump (the tool has a small clamp with a small bolt which I assume is only to prevent the tool from falling off the pulley)

    

 

      

 

Take note of the hexagonal stud/driver in this pic. This is how the force is transmitted to the belt (by the way, I thought that I'd have to stretch/mount the belt in one action of the spanner but you can re-locate the spanner without the belt 'springing/jumping' back)

      

 

The guide tool for the crankshaft pulley

 

I'm sure you folks can forgive me for not having any pics of me actually operating the tools (it's not easy to turn a pulley, watch the belt, watch the tools, guide the belt and take pictures at the same time) and if I'm to be honest, I was getting a bit impatient and tired at this point.

But the tools worked fine and we got the belts on (I love seeing the barcodes on the new belts by the way )

The Laser tool 4999 was straightforward too.

 

          

     

 

Back soon,

H..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[stef123]

I think this is the most thorough and documented timing belt change I have ever seen lol.

 

[HenryV]

...The rags that were preventing stuff dropping into the cylinders were removed next

 

..whilst the sparkplugs were re-inserted

       

 

..and then the valve/rocker cover (I strongly suggest following Ford's tightening sequence here)

 

...and I had to loosen upper bolts on the timing belt top cover to get the valve cover back in place

 

Don't forget the cable mounting bracket on the far right seen from the front of the bonnet

 

..or the long top centre bolt that goes between the camshaft pulleys

        

 

Valve cover re-installed

There's a blue electrical connector at the top left of the valve cover that needs to be re-connected at this point too. Sorry, but it's obscured by the top left air hose in the last pic.

 

HT leads re-attached next

 

...and the air box (air hoses and small breather hose included)

 

Next, I re-installed the coolant expansion tank

  

  

 

Next is the re-installation of the crankshaft pulley splash guard (with my improvised clip/fastener)

  

   

 

Don't forget the cable hanger at the front of the splash guard

 

My improvised clip

   

 

Then the offside headlamp

 

Then the battery (negative) terminal

 

Offside front wheel back on (and car lowered back to level)

 

Next was to re-fill the cooling system

 

Don't forget to remove the radiator vent plug (the black screw type thing on the right)

 

A funnel is a handy tool

 

When we'd filled the cooling system it was time (at long last) to crank the engine...

Back soon,

H..

[HenryV]

... How do I/can I post a video clip on this site ?

[stef123]

upload it to youtube and post the link on here. 

[iantt]

if its a video it must be good news and running:)

[HenryV]

Thanks stef, good idea. I'll try to do it.

Thanks ian but I don't want to spoil the climax

[HenryV]

Hi again folks,

I gave my dad my phone/camera whilst I got in the cockpit with the key.

Here's the finale;

 

I love seeing the barcodes/lettering spinning round on the new belts

 

I let it run for a while then topped up the coolant.

I then drove her about 5 miles home and (as expected) the coolant level had dropped due to the coolant displacing the air up to the expansion tank.

I topped her up and drove the 5 miles back to my dad's the day after, before driving the 20 miles to work.

On arrival I lifted the bonnet to check the everything was ok;

 

She hasn't missed a beat and I'm delighted!   

The coolant hadn't dropped since the night before.

Thanks to everyone on here for your support/encouragement/advice.  I wouldn't have done the job without the confidence you gave me.

A big thanks also to my dad for the help and advice.

I'm hoping to be back folks with another project soon (probably the clutch)

Best wishes to you all and best regards

H...

[Albert27]

On 10/07/2017 at 2:17 PM, HenryV said:

Thanks for your interest and your comment Albert,

If you take on the job, I wish you every success. I'll also answer any questions that I can but bare in mind that I'm only a hobbyist and not an expert by any means. There's some extremely knowledgeable/experienced guys on here who I'm sure would be more help than myself.

Of course, your engine is a diesel, so I presume that there'll be differences to the petrol Zetecs. I've never owned and hardly ever driven a diesel, let alone fixed one. I wouldn't know where to start with one.

I will give you some general tips/warnings though:

Do lots of research and make sure you understand the job before beginning it.

The job is NOT easy. I'm not a car mechanic and I found the job very 'trying'.

Allow lots of time because there will be hurdles/stumbles along the way.

Make sure you have all the parts/tools before beginning.

Form a plan for tackling the crankbolt !

A low range torque wrench is a tool that I didn't have but 'had to' buy along the way.

Be motivated by the challenge and not by any financial savings. The job for an amateur like myself isn't really financially viable. You can save money on parts and labour but when you consider your own time on the job, it might not add up;  I must have spent 30hrs over 3 weekends actually doing the job and countless hours researching and locating/buying parts and tools.

Best wishes,

H..

Thanks for the info!

I stand in awe at this whole thread.  There should be a forum medal for recognition of your posts 

Very well done.

[HenryV]

Thanks Albert,

I'm glad that you liked it.

The car's still running fine by the way 

 

[HenryV]

Hi folks,

Just to 'cross the t's and dot the i's';

I left the car outside my house for 5 days whilst I visited Poland.

Upon my return, I checked under the car and found no evidence of any coolant leaks.

I again did the daily 50 mile or so round trip to my dad's house/work/home and the car is fine.

I did, by the way (before tackling the job) occasionally hear a small squeak caused by one of the accessory belts slipping slightly.  It hasn't made a sound since completing the job.

Also, I forgot to thank Franco, my colleague whose strength (I've not yet been mistaken for Mr Universe) was needed to finally shift the crankbolt.

And also, I forgot to mention the real star of the project, the 'Project Catering Manager', my mum who must have made threescore cups of tea as well as supplying a huge amount of encouragement !

Thanks Mum

 

[stef123]

What about biscuits, did you get any biscuits with your cups of tea lol. 

[HenryV]

I didn't get any biscuits stef, but the job nearly drove me 'crackers' a few times!

[HenryV]

Approaching 102000 miles and the she's still running fine

[HenryV]

Approaching 110,000 miles and she's still running fine

[HenryV]

114,800 Miles and she's purring like a kitten.

Any bets on her reaching 150,000?

[Gazzanight]

Henry,was it necessary to slacken the camshaft sprockets?

[ford2188]

Hi, Henry,

Really nice tool 'Crankbolt Henry' for loosening the crankshaft bolt. Could you please let me know what kind tubes (materials and diameter) you used in your designed tool?

Thanks.

[Ashveer96]

On 7/4/2017 at 4:56 PM, HenryV said:

Update;

You may recall that we were struggling getting the 'crankbolt' out.

I got a flywheel lock tool and my dad got some new brushes for the impact gun

Old brushes

 

PEASE NOTE! Make sure the battery is disconnected before removing the starter!

Harness/connector off the starter motor

Starter motor off

 

Flywheel lock tool on (Be VERY careful not to drop anything into the starter aperture. I used a rag to stop anything getting in if I dropped it. Note how I daren't put a washer on the top bolt.  This picture shows the tool in place but not tightened. The small bolt still needed to be slid down it's slot, to engage the tools blade in the the flywheel and tightened, as did the M10 nuts

With the flywheel locked firmly, I tried again

...and again

No luck with the blighter!

I sat on the drive with a cup of tea and decided that I'd get that bolt out come hell or high water!

So I set off to work with a 'cunning plan'..

...A few hours of travelling and welding later;

'Crankbolt Henry' was born...

...and I went for it..

and went for it

 

...and a colleague joined me and went for it..

..and then I, along with my colleague both went for it (one of us on each side of the 'T bar')..

..and..

SHE CAME!

AND CAME!

It was now 9pm. Time to pack up for Saturday.

I'll update you on Sundays progress soon.

Regards,

H..

 

 

 

This was my bolt

 

 

 

 

[HenryV]

25 minutes ago, Ashveer96 said:

 

Thanks for the pic Ash. How did your 'crankbolt' meet such a grisly end? Heat?

[HenryV]

She's now past the 125,000 mile checkpoint btw

Presently just a slight water leak but slight enough to wait for better weather..

(original) Radiator leak suspected...

Replaced the driver seat release lever/cable last summer

I retired in 2020, so her mileage has been minimal whilst the motorbike mileages have rocketed

I'll still not part with her come Hell or high water!

Heartbroken that my dad passed away last year and that for me this thread is now a much cherished memory of the many tasks we challenged and mostly won together.

Best wishes to all