Phil's Build Thread

[Phil21185]

Not done much since last post as Uni and Baby have absorbed all my time, however modding season is fast approaching and I'm getting the hankering for some tinkering.

Fitted a dashcam yesterday - Anker Roav C1 Pro.  Seems pretty good and I like the wedge shape - means its quite discreet.  I originally looked at hiding a cam inside the sensor cover on the windscreen but there's not nearly enough room. Hardwired into F73 with a battery monitor kit.

Also splashed on some Twenty20 Red LEDs for my brake lights to see if better quality bulbs will get rid of the DAB interference I've been having. At £30 a set they'd better or they get sent back!

 

Other upcoming mods will be:  

Heated seats (found a nice set of carbon mats with very nice looking controls) - Stephen/madmole has a great guide for this so should look nice and OEM =]

Reversing camera

Maybe LED reflectors

If I'm really lucky (ie, if someone gives me the parts for free) ZS/ST spoiler and sides would be nice along with the same front lip that @kpg has =]

Ooh and bonnet lifters - Dark Ice Designs do a bolt on set for £40 which is very reasonable!

 

That's all for now.  Just got to wait for double digit weather to be comfortable.

 

EDIT: ooh. ohh I just remembered. When poking around inside the sensor cover, there was a flat connector there and a pretty obvious square space for a module slap bang in the middle.  I've got some pics some where on my phone which I'll upload but anyone know what its for?  I have rain sensor wipers and auto mirror but no other goodies up there.  Is it easy and cheap to retrofit?

[Phil21185]

Here's the connector I meant if anyone knows?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

For anyone following, this is for the gpsm module, sometimes required for emergency assistance on non nav sync 1 cars and for the upgrade to sync 2. It is not required for sync 3 as far as I am aware.

[Phil21185]

As promised - though not really required with this one!

Fitting Bonnets Struts to Focus, 2011 onwards

Crap you will need and where to get it:

Bonnet Strut Kit -  I used one from Dark Ice Designs: https://www.darkicedesigns.com/en/ford-mondeo-parts/154-ford-mondeo-mk4-bonnet-gas-strut-kit.html  I know it says Mondeo, but the actual kit is For a Focus, suitable for Mk3 and Mk3.5
 

10mm deep socket

===OR===

10mm socket and 10mm spanner

 

6mm Allen key.

 

How to:

This one really is a doddle as DID include step by step instructions with pictures (of what looks like a Nitrous Blue RS =D) but this guide is for anyone who wants to know whats involved before starting.

The kit.  Mine had metal ball sockets on both ends, where the advert and the instructions show a black, square one on the car-end of the strut.  This might be important later.

First, screw the included hex bolts into the wing ball brackets.  Only one hole is threaded for it, so you can't get this wrong.  Tighten up as far as you can but obviously don't strip it.  Use threadlocker if you like (I didn't...)

Good.

Next locate the wing bolts on either side of the car.  Its the 10mm body coloured bolt directly behind the silver headlight fixing bolt.  Take it out on either side of the car.

The black one, not the silver!

Good.

Now fit the ball bolt and the supplied washer.  A note on production quality here:  I would have liked the supplied washer to be about 2mm larger in diameter to match the captive washer that came off with the original wing bolt.  When the new one is tightened down, there is a ring of off-coloured bodywork around it that would have been nice to hide.

Start by entering it by hand.  It won't feel nice to enter as it is self-tapping (so be sure you want to do this before tightening as you wont be able to get the old bolt back in if you do)

Use a deep 10mm socket or a spanner to slowly tighten it up.  It will bite very early up the thread but carefully persist until tightened down completely.  Again, don't overtighten.

Boop.

Next, remove the lower hinge nut (though the instructions say bolt) from the bonnet, either side.  I would advise only doing one side at a time, but I was doing it in quite windy conditions and didn't want to strain the remaining nut.

Leaving the stud exposed.

Fit the wing ball joint as shown. Make sure the ball points to the outer edge of the car and that the Allen bolt enters into the hole in the bonnet between the 2 studs.  This doesn't screw in, it's more of a locating bolt and to stop the bracket rotating.

Use the provided 10mm locking nut to secure.  Tighten down completely.  Don't strip it!

Time to fit the struts.  Each end on mine had a retaining clip:

Remove by unclipping it from round the strut rod and sliding it downwards once clear.  It's easy to drop and lose. Don't.

I found it easier to fit the bonnet end first - note that it is the chamber end (the fat end) that goes to the bonnet and the thin rod end goes down to the car.  Make sure it pushes on well - there should be a satisfying snap when it is in place.  Refit the retaining clip.

Attach both struts to the bonnet before attaching to the body.

Repeat for the body ends.  The struts open the bonnet slightly wider that the stock prop allows, so you have to sort of lift the bonnet a bit and offer up each strut to the body. I found that I couldn't push them on completely from that angle, but once they were both offered up, I closed the bonnet about halfway and they were much easier to push on.  I also had to refit the clips in that position.

This takes me back to the point about the ends not being the same as in the advert.  Mine seem to work fine, but the instructions say to screw the ball sockets on the ends of the struts first.  Mine were already on so this may have been a manufacturing error.

Anyway, they seem to work fine for me!

Finally, remove the little bumpers from either side of the bonnet - shown above.  They turn by hand about a 1/4 turn and just come out.  I would save them, just in case.

Job Done!

 

This was a very straightforward mod to do and the included instructions are very clear and easy to follow.  One potential issue that other people who have done this have noticed is that the driver's side strut may foul the washer pipe going up to the bonnet. I didn't spot any problems, but I'll keep an eye on it.

[Phil21185]

Oh by the way, Twenty20's LED Bulbs from ABD.com did the trick with not interfering with my DAB.  Can recommend!

[Phil21185]

How to update Sync 1.1 - (may be similar for other Sync versions)

Firstly, I accept no liability if you screw up your car!

• Go here: https://www.ford.co.uk/owner/resources-and-support/sync-bluetooth/update#/
• Enter your VIN
• Download the file

Get a USB stick that you know works with the car (perhaps which previously had music on it), minimum of 2gb.  The update I'm currently doing, sat in my car, typing this, getting buffeted by the wind from the 'mini beast from the east...' is over 700mb.
 

Format the USB stick to FAT32, which it likely is anyway:

For Windows Users:

• Go to computer (or My Computer, etc)
• Right-click on the drive and click format
• In the dialog window, make sure that File Allocation Type is set to FAT32 (as opposed to NTFS, exFAT, FAT or others)

For Mac Users:

• Re-think your life choices to-date
• Buy a Windows PC
• See above

Unzip the file, there should be 2 files and one folder.  Put them all in the root of the USB stick (so, open the drive and copy straight in, no other sub-folders).

Plug the stick into the car, go to: Settings > Sync settings > Install on Sync

This is the part where people have had trouble.  If the car says it can't find the install file then::

Unplug the USB from the car and put it back in your computer.  Open install.lst in notepad.

If the file is all on one line, this is your problem.  Edit it so it looks more like this:

; Assembly Directive Install for Gen 1.1 16B - E1BT


[Windows Mobile for Automotive 5.8]

Item1 = 8L2T-14D546-AF

Open1 = SyncMyRide\8L2T-14D546-AF.cab

Item2 = E1BT-14D546-EB

Open2 = SyncMyRide\E1BT-14D546-EB.cab

Item3 = E1BT-14D546-JC

Open3 = SyncMyRide\E1BT-14D546-JC.cab

Item4 = E1BT-14D546-DB

Open4 = SyncMyRide\E1BT-14D546-DB.cab

Item5 = E1BT-14D546-AA

Open5 = SyncMyRide\E1BT-14D546-AA.cab

It isn't necessary to have a space between each line, that's just the code block adding those in on the forum.  Bear in mind that your filenames may be different.

Hopefully it will now install.  There are some voice prompts, and after about 15-20 mins it should tell you that it is complete.

 

My car is now on v5.11.  It appears to have made absolutely no difference!

[loz13fost]

new member here 

anyone got a copy of the update file i could have please? local ford garage tried to update mine, but confirmed the update even tho it didnt, so the site says no update available.

Ive got a 13 focus st with sync 1.1

tia folks

[loz13fost]

1 hour ago, loz13fost said:

new member here 

anyone got a copy of the update file i could have please? local ford garage tried to update mine, but confirmed the update even tho it didnt, so the site says no update available.

Ive got a 13 focus st with sync 1.1

tia folks

sorry didnt mean to hijack anyones thread

[Phil21185]

Not a problem but as the update files are 700mb it's a bit hard to share on here.

Are you sure it didn't update? After I did mine, the version on the dash is v5.11

[mastachaz]

4 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

Not a problem but as the update files are 700mb it's a bit hard to share on here.

Are you sure it didn't update? After I did mine, the version on the dash is v5.11

you can upload to sendspace etc:)

[Toonami]

On 12/09/2017 at 9:07 PM, Phil21185 said:

Fitting LED indicators to a Mk3 Focus Hatchback (estate may be the same but I can't guarantee).

Crap you will need (and where I got it from - all from eBay):

4x 581 Amber LED bulbs - This link is for a pair, so you will obviously need 2 lots if you buy from here.

4x Ballast resistors and Scotch Lock connectors - can be bought separately but this is reasonable value.

Hi Phil,

Thanks for the tips on the ballast resistors, I’ve been looking at some of these but wasn’t sure on the type/size.  Did you use all four?  I’ve only installed them on the front two lights and they work fine.  Took me a while as I started on the opposite side of the car to you and the cable colours are different.

 

I’m also going to pinch your idea for the light up reflectors when I get around to ordering these. https://tinyurl.com/ybxvom47

[Phil21185]

On 4/1/2018 at 11:38 AM, Toonami said:

Hi Phil,

Thanks for the tips on the ballast resistors, I’ve been looking at some of these but wasn’t sure on the type/size.  Did you use all four?  I’ve only installed them on the front two lights and they work fine.  Took me a while as I started on the opposite side of the car to you and the cable colours are different.

 

I’m also going to pinch your idea for the light up reflectors when I get around to ordering these. https://tinyurl.com/ybxvom47

I did, yes.  Interesting to note that they're not all required - I wonder if my indicators flash slower than yours now?!  There's a gif of my indicators somewhere in this thread, you can check! lol!

I did have to put a resistor on one of the rear fog lights or it gave me a bulb warning, but they were cheap bulbs...  

I like the idea of those lamps - custom logo from beneath the door?  But not sure they're suitable to put behind the reflector lenses?  would be interesting to see how you get on!

[skullyi]

On 23/09/2017 at 12:39 PM, Phil21185 said:

Well they weren't due to turn up til late October but my illuminated scuff plates have arrived! They look great and I can't wait to fit them! 

Of course I'll have a full write up with pics and links when I do... =]

New toys!

I may be blind but I couldn't find a link for these anywhere, any chance you could share where you got those gorgeous kick plates from!? :O 

[Jonro2009]

48 minutes ago, skullyi said:

I may be blind but I couldn't find a link for these anywhere, any chance you could share where you got those gorgeous kick plates from!? :O 

On October 8th  @Phil21185 posted his guide to fit the sill covers, it’s about a dozen posts after the one you quoted. The words ‘scuff plates’ are actually a hyperlink so just click on the words, alternatively here is the proper clicky thingy 😉 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Illuminate-LED-Door-Sill-Scuff-Plate-Fit-Ford-Focus-2012-2018-/151795195077

[skullyi]

6 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

On October 8th  @Phil21185 posted his guide to fit the sill covers, it’s about a dozen posts after the one you quoted. The words ‘scuff plates’ are actually a hyperlink so just click on the words, alternatively here is the proper clicky thingy 😉 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Illuminate-LED-Door-Sill-Scuff-Plate-Fit-Ford-Focus-2012-2018-/151795195077

This is why I need you guys  I'm clearly blind! thank you <3

 

[Phil21185]

Thanks for the catch Jonro!

[Phil21185]

How to update Sync 1.1 (prefacelift Mk3 Focus) to Sync 2

Righty peeps.  This is an extension of the guide for this by @Luke_Anderson, who has put a crapton of effort into researching this and helping the first few others through the process.  His thread is here:

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/101067-mk3-prefacelift-sync-2-8-touchscreen-upgrade-how-to-guide-with-pics/

And you should give it a good read before continuing.  Also, if you want to give thanks for the info on upgrading, please do it there, NOT ON THIS POST.  This is just the way I did it, but all the work was done by Luke and he should get props for that.

As with Luke's guide, I accept no responsibility for any Fkups that may happen to any modules etc in your car.  Most problems are undo-able or fixable, but there is always the slightest chance of getting FUBAR.  It is also possible to go straight to Sync 3 and @skullyi is working on this as I write.

Please note: This post does NOT cover the reversing cam, as I don't have one (yet =]).  Please see Luke's thread linked above for that info.

Please also note, that this is based on my personal set-up and experience.  If you have different circumstances, you may encounter different issues.

What you will need:

INFO::

• There are two documents linked in the first page of Luke's thread.  It would be helpful to download them both, and very helpful to print the spreadsheet highlighting the wiring changes.
• Forscan with an extended licence.  This is free software found by Googling Forscan.  The extended licence is also free but required signup (again, for free) to the Forscan Forum.  You have to wait for an admin to approve you before you can get a licence so do that before starting the mod.  There is a link to the forum through the software itself.
• An As-Built dataset from a 2015 or later car with the same features as yours.

PARTS::

• Sync 2 Touchscreen (FCDIM)
• Sync 2 Module (APIM) - Usually attached to the back of the FCDIM
• Sync 2 Radio (ACM) - The box with the CD slot in it
• Sync 2 Fascia with controls (the controls are FCIM)
• Sync 2 Media Hub with loom (USB, SDcard and Line in box)
• Sync 2 Screen and Radio Chassis - finis 1895997 (thanks @Tezza)
• Male-to-male Mini-USB cable, approx 2.5/3m long (for ease).  This can be made if you have the skill and a couple of cables to butcher.
• GPSM Module - DE8T-19H463-DC 
• MK5 Mondeo Media hub bezel - finis 5326708
• Lap Cooler cover (trim piece) - FIEB-A046B74-ACW
• Sat Nav Maps SD Card (F4 or later)

OPTIONAL::

• HSD Code E Plug or Fakra Z if you already have an OEM reverse camera
• Scrap Sync Loom (for extra molex pins) - may not be required if you get the whole media hub loom.

WHERE TO GET IT:

Mostly eBay.  There is a seller called focusbreakers2010 currently selling the main stuff:

• Main sync 2 system and fascia £215
• Media hub and loom £40

Anciliaries:

• GPSM module - eBay, around £20
• F6 card (currently latest) - eBay, around £45 (beware of fakes)
• USB cable - ebay, amazon, wherever you like really.
• Bezel and cover - Ford directly, about £17 for both.

Total cost: roughly £300 - £325.

 

TOOLS AND MATERIALS::

• T15 and T25 torx drivers
• Wire cutters
• Pliers
• Stanley knife
• Dremel (recommended) or tools for cutting plastic trim
• Soldering Iron
• Scotchlocks
• Heatshrink Tubing (if soldering)
• Stranded wire
• "Modified" ELM327 cable with HS and MS-CAN switch (Google tunnelrat for these)

SKILLS::

• Relatively computer literate (use of Forscan)
• Soldering 
• General DIY
• Patience
• Comfortable with ripping car panels out!

LETS BEGIN
 

Firstly, remove the cover around the rear view mirror and pray you have this plug hiding there.  It'll be covered in that horrendous sticky grey foam.  If you have, this is where the GPSM module goes.  If not, I'm afraid I can't help you.

Also before committing to this job, you need to extend the 7 wires on the media hub loom.  

The loom comes with a few bits you don't need, but you need to strip back the foam on this grey plug on the left:

Trace the wires all the way back to this plug and cut them off:

Now, this is where a spare loom from a scrappie comes in handy as we need the pins that are used by Ford.  Luke managed to get some that sort of fit from Mouser.com, but had to wait ages and paid terrible customs charges.  By happenstance, one of the other plugs on the loom I received for the media hub looks like this:

We don't need the plug, but we do need its pins!   There's actually a whitish plastic piece on the front that I'd already removed - it just unclips to allow access to the release springs on the pins.  Its hard to explain how to release the pins but have a look and it'll be obvious- there s a sort of spring tab you need a pin or needle to reach in and press down while gently pulling the wire from the plug.  Master this skill now as you'll need it a lot for this mod later on!

Take all of the pins out and cut the wires as close to the plug at the other end as possible.  I still had to lengthen the wires by about 20cm so I would do that now.  Now use 7 of these to extend the wires you just cut on your new media hub loom.  Make a note for each of these loose pins, what pin in the plug at the other end they correlate to.  That's very important!  The two spares will be used in the splicing later on.

Luke recommended removing the entire centre console from this point, for which I do not have instructions.  It would be easier to do the work if so, but it is possible to complete the work by only removing the panels as outlined in this guide.

Next job is to remove the current fascia in the car.  It is necessary to dismantle many of the panels for this.  Start by removing the drivers side panel between dash and door:

Woo thats a grainy one.  Sorry about that.  It just pulls away from the front, slightly pointed bit, there are no screws.  It will need unhooking from behind the door seal.

Behind that panel, there is a T25 torx bolt:

This is the only bolt holding the driver's knee panel in place.

The knee panel pulls away after this as it is on clips.  Be firm but don't force it from a weak point.  Behind this panel is the cabin temperature sensor.  This just pulls out of the panel.  There is also a plug here which I don't know the purpose of...  That was just docked in the panel.

Once that panel is out, you can remove the driver's side panel of the centre console.

Again, completely on clips, but be careful no to wrench it and break any of the tabs of the adjoining panels.  Near the front (where the clutch is basically,) there is a cover panel.   Leave it on for now, but grab the front of the panel near there and pull it, that will get you started.  The very top sort of hooks into the dash so watch out for that.

 

Next you need to remove the gear gaiter and surround.  With your fingers hooked through the leather on the driver's side, pull upwards to release the middle.  Carefully work a plastic spudger in that gap to release the other clips, then work your way around the other side,  Careful with this as you don;t want to snap the surround.

Now these two hex-head bolts are revealed.  Remove the right hand one.  Not sure what side as I just undid with pliers but would guess around 8mm.

Now the panel at the side of the climate controls can be removed by pulling the top away as shown.  Again, be aware of where this joins the small panel which the handbrake goes through.

All necessary bolts are now revealed.  Firstly, these two under the lip of the fascia, above the heater controls.  T25 torx.  Never knew until this point that there are actually aircon ducts for your knees...

The fascia will now pull away at the bottom and unclip up the sides to the top.  I haven't a picture of this at removal time, but this picture illustrates:

Now unclip the control panel plug:

And you should now be looking at something like this (without the looms at the bottom - I forgot to take a photo before i did the next stage =]):

OPTIONAL STEPS:::

If you have a Titanium or other spec which has the chrome effect highlights in the vent controls, it is possible to swap them over at this point to your new Sync 2 Fascia if that didn't have them:

First, unclip the control rod from the vent shutter roller - it just pops off carefully:

Next, flex the tab holding the roller in:

 

Now unhook the 3 tabs either side of the vent itself where it meets the back of the fascia:

The ones I mean at the two either side of the nearest silver bit and the same style one further back in the photo (should have circled them lol).  It's a bit like nailing jelly to the ceiling as the clips will want to re engage as you work the other side loose, but apply a bit of sideways pressure on the vent assembly away from the clips youve undone and it should be fine.  The whole vent and controls should now come out:

 

Now you want the roller and the central fin with the control on it.  The roller is on a sort of axle with a plastic tab holding it on:

 

The tab is very stiff, so use something to lever it down and wiggle the roller over it.

Next, prise the top of the central fin out of its holder:

Yes, I know, I know, I demonstrated on the wrong fin!  Make sure you do the central one.  Once the top is free, the bottom will lift out of the retaining hole and you should get this:

Here is the vent with the fin removed.  When you come to replacing it on the new fascia, it must line up with the notch you can see in the bottom horizontal fin.

Now repeat all that for the other side, and the new fascia, swap over and reassemble both in reverse!

OPTIONAL STEPS END.

Next, undo the two T25 torx bolts holding the radio and cd player in:

The radio also clips inat the bottom, so may require a sharp tug to remove.  Once removed, there are 2 large black plugs and a small white and small black plug.   The all remove with a press tab.   Keep the two larger plugs and the small white plug handy!  Tuck or tape away the small black plug -  You may need to strip back the loom sheathing to do this tidily.  

 

Next, undo the 4 T25 Torx bolts holding the plastic chassis with the screen on. 

There are a few plugs on the back to undo so don't pull it out too far.

Unplug the three Fakra connectors (pink, black and blue - Keep the black one handy!) and the larger black plug has a release lever.  Keep this one handy as well!

Your car should look like this:

Now offer up your new fascia.  It won't fit.  Give up and put the car back together.

Orrrrrrrrrr:

Get out your dremel and cut the bugger up!  Its the bottom that needs trimming and theres a panel to cover it up, so don't worry too much.

Before:

 

After::

This is what you are aiming for, so here is another pic before, with cut lines:

I found this dead simple with a dremel.  I also recommend removing the control panel before doing this.  Theres 4 Torx bolts holding it in place.

Now that the fascia fits, you need to remove the heater controls.  Not sure if this is the same for all cars, but mine had climate controls with 3 T25 Torx bolts, two at the top:

And one at the side, behind the panel we removed earlier:

There are these four plugs on these which need unplugging.

This reveals the sync unit behind.  Undo the torx bolts holding it in and unplug it:

Not the silver bolts, there are black ones in those sort of cut outs.  The plug has a lever release:

Now you need to cut back the sheathing on this plug's loom to be able to push it back through and bring it out where the old screen was.

There's a little bit more dismantling to do.  I found it helpful to remove the passenger side panel form the centre console.  This removes in a similar way to the driver's side.  Also, open the centre console arm rest and undo the only T15 torx bolt hidden near the top centre:

I mean the one on its own, just under the hinge.  Taking this out will allow removal of the rear panel on the console, with the rear 12v socket on it.  Hook your fingers under the bottom and sharply pull towards you.  Work your way up the sides and carefully unhook the top from around the hinge.  Unplug the 12v socket.

 

Also, remove the cupholders.  I don;t have heated seats so mine looks like this:

I grabbed the join between the two cubbies and pulled up - it is only clipped in.

 

This is as much dismantling as I found was required.  It is a little tricky to run the necessary wires, but is possible to do without removing the whole console.  You should have something looking like this:

I have already levered out and unplugged the old media hub.  The old loom and USB cable can tuck away tidily inside now, though there is a join in the USB cable behind the passenger console side panel that you can disconnect and remove the rest.

The tricky bit now is feeding your male to male mini usb and the media hub loom (with its extended wires and loose pins at the other end through from where your old screen was, to the centre console.  The loose pins of the media hub loom need to be at the screen end, the plug at the console end, by the way.  There may be a possibility of the cable fouling the operation of the handbrake, but if you look carefully around in there, you can see where Ford have run the original loom.  Follow this as closely as you can and you'l be fine.

Once you've managed this, you can fit your new hub (the sd card and usb port etc).  Feed the ends of the usb and hub loom wires through the bezel you bought and plug them into the hub.  Fit the hub to the bezl and the whole assembly where the old one came out.  Pull any slack in the cables back through to the screen end.  If there's masses of it, coil some neatly back in the centre console as loads of extra will just get in the way at the screen end later.

Now comes the really fun part.  Hopefully you will have studied the wire swap chart on Luke's post a bit!

To do the swaps, you need to take the covers off the plugs in question.  There's a couple of retaining clips on the plug covers ( the things which bend the wires out of the plug at 90 degrees and has the fitting lever on it).  prise them over the tabs and slide the plugs out.

This is what the Sync plug looks like:

  

Its actually 2 plugs in one.  You'll notice the top part slides off the other piece to give access to the pin removal springs.

I'm not going to go through the pin swaps in detail, as the sheet on Luke's post does that.  The pin numbers can be seen at either end of the plug, so make sure you count the correct space for each pin.  I found that I needed to add more pins that I had gained from the unused loom plug earlier.  I simply stole these from the old screen loom.  They're a bit tight to fit into the sync loom but they will go.

Other than that, there were only a few other things I needed to clear up with Luke:

"ACM Main plug" is the larger of the two black plugs we unplugged from the radio/cd player and "ACM accessory" is the smaller one.  There are two wires to move from one to the other.  Also, the pins that move from the FCDIM (old screen)  plug to the Button panel are different types, but they do fit with a bit of working in.  Finally, pin 16 and 17 of the Sync plug need a splice from either the GPSM module behind the mirror cover OR from the BLUE plug behind the climate controls if you have them.  You can use scotchlocks for the splices (where you just want to tap into the wire signal without cutting it), but be sure the scotchlocks you use are small enough to bite through the sheathing on the wire.  The ones I used were too big so a connection wasn't made.  I went back and y-spliced them with solder joints.

Go steadily, one by one, and mark any wires you move or remove so you can revert if needed.

Once you've done that, you're almost halfway to being nearly 25% done.  Or thereabouts.

You should be able to boot up the radio now and most things should work.  When plugging everyhting in, most things only will go in one place, but a note to mention is that there are 2 black Fakra connectors and wires available. If you followed the guide above, you tucked away the one from the old radio/cd player and kept the one from the old screen accessible.  It is this one that needs to go into the new radio with the white Fakra plug, NOT the one from the old radio.  Otherwise your DAB wont work.

 

If the usb and sd card are working, go ahead and put the centre console back together.  If the screen and radio are working, go ahead and put the rest back together, in reverse of the above dismantling.  Fit the screen to the new chassis and fit that as one piece.  It should sit where the old one came out of, then the new radio fits as the old one did, clipped at the bottom and screwed at the top.  Replace the heater controls, and refit the Torx screws, then plug the button panel back in and feed the top of the fascia into place above the new touchscreen.  Gently press down both sides to clip it in, then put the Torx screws back in underneath, where they were in the old fascia.  Once all the panels are in and screwed down again, the lap cooler panel clips under the fascia to cover all that up!

For the two side panels of the center console, remove the smaller panels from them.  Behind them are push bolts which have to be taken out and re applied once the panels are in and lined up.

Once this is done, You need to program the car to accept the new units.

The instructions provided by Luke are very clear. Head back to his thread and read from "Programming the APIM"

The only issue I had to resolve after that was getting the visual parking screen to show.  I only have rear park sensors so things may be different for you.

If you have the same circumstances (rear park sensors only, no camera) and the same problem (when you reverse, you can hear the beeps but don't see the visual guide), head into Forscan and on the APIM as-built screen (described in Luke's thread), find the following:

7D0-02-02 XXXX 0XXX XXXX

Change the 0 to a 2.  It should be the first digit in the second box on the 7D0-02-02 line.

 

All being well, you should be done!

 

 

 

[yunii]

How to update Sync 1.1 (prefacelift Mk3 Focus) to Sync 2
Righty peeps.  This is an extension of the guide for this by [mention=92254]Luke_Anderson[/mention], who has put a crapton of effort into researching this and helping the first few others through the process.  His thread is here:
https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/101067-mk3-prefacelift-sync-2-8-touchscreen-upgrade-how-to-guide-with-pics/
And you should give it a good read before continuing.  Also, if you want to give thanks for the info on upgrading, please do it there, NOT ON THIS POST.  This is just the way I did it, but all the work was done by Luke and he should get props for that.
As with Luke's guide, I accept no responsibility for any Fkups that may happen to any modules etc in your car.  Most problems are undo-able or fixable, but there is always the slightest chance of getting FUBAR.  It is also possible to go straight to Sync 3 and [mention=94834]skullyi[/mention] is working on this as I write.
Please note: This post does NOT cover the reversing cam, as I don't have one (yet =]).  Please see Luke's thread linked above for that info.
Please also note, that this is based on my personal set-up and experience.  If you have different circumstances, you may encounter different issues.
What you will need:
INFO::

• There are two documents linked in the first page of Luke's thread.  It would be helpful to download them both, and very helpful to print the spreadsheet highlighting the wiring changes.
• Forscan with an extended licence.  This is free software found by Googling Forscan.  The extended licence is also free but required signup (again, for free) to the Forscan Forum.  You have to wait for an admin to approve you before you can get a licence so do that before starting the mod.  There is a link to the forum through the software itself.
• An As-Built dataset from a 2015 or later car with the same features as yours.

PARTS::

• Sync 2 Touchscreen (FCDIM)
• Sync 2 Module (APIM) - Usually attached to the back of the FCDIM
• Sync 2 Radio (ACM) - The box with the CD slot in it
• Sync 2 Fascia with controls (the controls are FCIM)
• Sync 2 Media Hub with loom (USB, SDcard and Line in box)
• Sync 2 Screen and Radio Chassis - finis 1895997 (thanks [mention=44278]Tezza[/mention])
• Male-to-male Mini-USB cable, approx 2.5/3m long (for ease).  This can be made if you have the skill and a couple of cables to butcher.
• GPSM Module - DE8T-19H463-DC 
• MK5 Mondeo Media hub bezel - finis 5326708
• Lap Cooler cover (trim piece) - FIEB-A046B74-ACW
• Sat Nav Maps SD Card (F4 or later)

OPTIONAL::

• HSD Code E Plug or Fakra Z if you already have an OEM reverse camera
• Scrap Sync Loom (for extra molex pins) - may not be required if you get the whole media hub loom.

WHERE TO GET IT:
Mostly ebay.  There is a seller called focusbreakers2010 currently selling the main stuff:

• Main sync 2 system and fascia £215
• Media hub and loom £40

Anciliaries:

• GPSM module - ebay, around £20
• F6 card (currently latest) - ebay, around £45 (beware of fakes)
• USB cable - ebay, amazon, wherever you like really.
• Bezel and cover - Ford directly, about £17 for both.

Total cost: roughly £300 - £325.
 
TOOLS AND MATERIALS::

• T15 and T25 torx drivers
• Wire cutters
• Pliers
• Stanley knife
• Dremel (recommended) or tools for cutting plastic trim
• Soldering Iron
• Scotchlocks
• Heatshrink Tubing (if soldering)
• Stranded wire
• "Modified" ELM327 cable with HS and MS-CAN switch (Google tunnelrat for these)

SKILLS::

• Relatively computer literate (use of Forscan)
• Soldering 
• General DIY
• Patience
• Comfortable with ripping car panels out!

LETS BEGIN
 
Firstly, remove the cover around the rear view mirror and pray you have this plug hiding there.  It'll be covered in that horrendous sticky grey foam.  If you have, this is where the GPSM module goes.  If not, I'm afraid I can't help you.

Also before committing to this job, you need to extend the 7 wires on the media hub loom.  
The loom comes with a few bits you don't need, but you need to strip back the foam on this grey plug on the left:

Trace the wires all the way back to this plug and cut them off:

Now, this is where a spare loom from a scrappie comes in handy as we need the pins that are used by Ford.  Luke managed to get some that sort of fit from Mouser.com, but had to wait ages and paid terrible customs charges.  By happenstance, one of the other plugs on the loom I received for the media hub looks like this:

We don't need the plug, but we do need its pins!   There's actually a whitish plastic piece on the front that I'd already removed - it just unclips to allow access to the release springs on the pins.  Its hard to explain how to release the pins but have a look and it'll be obvious- there s a sort of spring tab you need a pin or needle to reach in and press down while gently pulling the wire from the plug.  Master this skill now as you'll need it a lot for this mod later on!
Take all of the pins out and cut the wires as close to the plug at the other end as possible.  I still had to lengthen the wires by about 20cm so I would do that now.  Now use 7 of these to extend the wires you just cut on your new media hub loom.  Make a note for each of these loose pins, what pin in the plug at the other end they correlate to.  That's very important!  The two spares will be used in the splicing later on.
Luke recommended removing the entire centre console from this point, for which I do not have instructions.  It would be easier to do the work if so, but it is possible to complete the work by only removing the panels as outlined in this guide.
Next job is to remove the current fascia in the car.  It is necessary to dismantle many of the panels for this.  Start by removing the drivers side panel between dash and door:

Woo thats a grainy one.  Sorry about that.  It just pulls away from the front, slightly pointed bit, there are no screws.  It will need unhooking from behind the door seal.
Behind that panel, there is a T25 torx bolt:

This is the only bolt holding the driver's knee panel in place.

The knee panel pulls away after this as it is on clips.  Be firm but don't force it from a weak point.  Behind this panel is the cabin temperature sensor.  This just pulls out of the panel.  There is also a plug here which I don't know the purpose of...  That was just docked in the panel.
Once that panel is out, you can remove the driver's side panel of the centre console.

Again, completely on clips, but be careful no to wrench it and break any of the tabs of the adjoining panels.  Near the front (where the clutch is basically,) there is a cover panel.   Leave it on for now, but grab the front of the panel near there and pull it, that will get you started.  The very top sort of hooks into the dash so watch out for that.

 
Next you need to remove the gear gaiter and surround.  With your fingers hooked through the leather on the driver's side, pull upwards to release the middle.  Carefully work a plastic spudger in that gap to release the other clips, then work your way around the other side,  Careful with this as you don;t want to snap the surround.

Now these two hex-head bolts are revealed.  Remove the right hand one.  Not sure what side as I just undid with pliers but would guess around 8mm.

Now the panel at the side of the climate controls can be removed by pulling the top away as shown.  Again, be aware of where this joins the small panel which the handbrake goes through.

All necessary bolts are now revealed.  Firstly, these two under the lip of the fascia, above the heater controls.  T25 torx.  Never knew until this point that there are actually aircon ducts for your knees...
The fascia will now pull away at the bottom and unclip up the sides to the top.  I haven't a picture of this at removal time, but this picture illustrates:

Now unclip the control panel plug:

And you should now be looking at something like this (without the looms at the bottom - I forgot to take a photo before i did the next stage =]):

OPTIONAL STEPS:::
If you have a Titanium or other spec which has the chrome effect highlights in the vent controls, it is possible to swap them over at this point to your new Sync 2 Fascia if that didn't have them:
First, unclip the control rod from the vent shutter roller - it just pops off carefully:

Next, flex the tab holding the roller in:
 

Now unhook the 3 tabs either side of the vent itself where it meets the back of the fascia:

The ones I mean at the two either side of the nearest silver bit and the same style one further back in the photo (should have circled them lol).  It's a bit like nailing jelly to the ceiling as the clips will want to re engage as you work the other side loose, but apply a bit of sideways pressure on the vent assembly away from the clips youve undone and it should be fine.  The whole vent and controls should now come out:
 

Now you want the roller and the central fin with the control on it.  The roller is on a sort of axle with a plastic tab holding it on:
 

The tab is very stiff, so use something to lever it down and wiggle the roller over it.
Next, prise the top of the central fin out of its holder:

Yes, I know, I know, I demonstrated on the wrong fin!  Make sure you do the central one.  Once the top is free, the bottom will lift out of the retaining hole and you should get this:

Here is the vent with the fin removed.  When you come to replacing it on the new fascia, it must line up with the notch you can see in the bottom horizontal fin.

Now repeat all that for the other side, and the new fascia, swap over and reassemble both in reverse!
OPTIONAL STEPS END.
Next, undo the two T25 torx bolts holding the radio and cd player in:

The radio also clips inat the bottom, so may require a sharp tug to remove.  Once removed, there are 2 large black plugs and a small white and small black plug.   The all remove with a press tab.   Keep the two larger plugs and the small white plug handy!  Tuck or tape away the small black plug -  You may need to strip back the loom sheathing to do this tidily.  
 
Next, undo the 4 T25 Torx bolts holding the plastic chassis with the screen on. 

There are a few plugs on the back to undo so don't pull it out too far.

Unplug the three Fakra connectors (pink, black and blue - Keep the black one handy!) and the larger black plug has a release lever.  Keep this one handy as well!
Your car should look like this:

Now offer up your new fascia.  It won't fit.  Give up and put the car back together.
Orrrrrrrrrr:
Get out your dremel and cut the bugger up!  Its the bottom that needs trimming and theres a panel to cover it up, so don't worry too much.
Before:
 

After::

This is what you are aiming for, so here is another pic before, with cut lines:

I found this dead simple with a dremel.  I also recommend removing the control panel before doing this.  Theres 4 Torx bolts holding it in place.
Now that the fascia fits, you need to remove the heater controls.  Not sure if this is the same for all cars, but mine had climate controls with 3 T25 Torx bolts, two at the top:

And one at the side, behind the panel we removed earlier:

There are these four plugs on these which need unplugging.

This reveals the sync unit behind.  Undo the torx bolts holding it in and unplug it:

Not the silver bolts, there are black ones in those sort of cut outs.  The plug has a lever release:

Now you need to cut back the sheathing on this plug's loom to be able to push it back through and bring it out where the old screen was.
There's a little bit more dismantling to do.  I found it helpful to remove the passenger side panel form the centre console.  This removes in a similar way to the driver's side.  Also, open the centre console arm rest and undo the only T15 torx bolt hidden near the top centre:

I mean the one on its own, just under the hinge.  Taking this out will allow removal of the rear panel on the console, with the rear 12v socket on it.  Hook your fingers under the bottom and sharply pull towards you.  Work your way up the sides and carefully unhook the top from around the hinge.  Unplug the 12v socket.

 
Also, remove the cupholders.  I don;t have heated seats so mine looks like this:

I grabbed the join between the two cubbies and pulled up - it is only clipped in.
 
This is as much dismantling as I found was required.  It is a little tricky to run the necessary wires, but is possible to do without removing the whole console.  You should have something looking like this:

I have already levered out and unplugged the old media hub.  The old loom and USB cable can tuck away tidily inside now, though there is a join in the USB cable behind the passenger console side panel that you can disconnect and remove the rest.
The tricky bit now is feeding your male to male mini usb and the media hub loom (with its extended wires and loose pins at the other end through from where your old screen was, to the centre console.  The loose pins of the media hub loom need to be at the screen end, the plug at the console end, by the way.  There may be a possibility of the cable fouling the operation of the handbrake, but if you look carefully around in there, you can see where Ford have run the original loom.  Follow this as closely as you can and you'l be fine.
Once you've managed this, you can fit your new hub (the sd card and usb port etc).  Feed the ends of the usb and hub loom wires through the bezel you bought and plug them into the hub.  Fit the hub to the bezl and the whole assembly where the old one came out.  Pull any slack in the cables back through to the screen end.  If there's masses of it, coil some neatly back in the centre console as loads of extra will just get in the way at the screen end later.
Now comes the really fun part.  Hopefully you will have studied the wire swap chart on Luke's post a bit!
To do the swaps, you need to take the covers off the plugs in question.  There's a couple of retaining clips on the plug covers ( the things which bend the wires out of the plug at 90 degrees and has the fitting lever on it).  prise them over the tabs and slide the plugs out.
This is what the Sync plug looks like:
  
Its actually 2 plugs in one.  You'll notice the top part slides off the other piece to give access to the pin removal springs.
I'm not going to go through the pin swaps in detail, as the sheet on Luke's post does that.  The pin numbers can be seen at either end of the plug, so make sure you count the correct space for each pin.  I found that I needed to add more pins that I had gained from the unused loom plug earlier.  I simply stole these from the old screen loom.  They're a bit tight to fit into the sync loom but they will go.
Other than that, there were only a few other things I needed to clear up with Luke:
"ACM Main plug" is the larger of the two black plugs we unplugged from the radio/cd player and "ACM accessory" is the smaller one.  There are two wires to move from one to the other.  Also, the pins that move from the FCDIM (old screen)  plug to the Button panel are different types, but they do fit with a bit of working in.  Finally, pin 16 and 17 of the Sync plug need a splice from either the GPSM module behind the mirror cover OR from the BLUE plug behind the climate controls if you have them.  You can use scotchlocks for the splices (where you just want to tap into the wire signal without cutting it), but be sure the scotchlocks you use are small enough to bite through the sheathing on the wire.  The ones I used were too big so a connection wasn't made.  I went back and y-spliced them with solder joints.
Go steadily, one by one, and mark any wires you move or remove so you can revert if needed.
Once you've done that, you're almost halfway to being nearly 25% done.  Or thereabouts.
You should be able to boot up the radio now and most things should work.  When plugging everyhting in, most things only will go in one place, but a note to mention is that there are 2 black Fakra connectors and wires available. If you followed the guide above, you tucked away the one from the old radio/cd player and kept the one from the old screen accessible.  It is this one that needs to go into the new radio with the white Fakra plug, NOT the one from the old radio.  Otherwise your DAB wont work.
 
If the usb and sd card are working, go ahead and put the centre console back together.  If the screen and radio are working, go ahead and put the rest back together, in reverse of the above dismantling.  Fit the screen to the new chassis and fit that as one piece.  It should sit where the old one came out of, then the new radio fits as the old one did, clipped at the bottom and screwed at the top.  Replace the heater controls, and refit the Torx screws, then plug the button panel back in and feed the top of the fascia into place above the new touchscreen.  Gently press down both sides to clip it in, then put the Torx screws back in underneath, where they were in the old fascia.  Once all the panels are in and screwed down again, the lap cooler panel clips under the fascia to cover all that up!
For the two side panels of the center console, remove the smaller panels from them.  Behind them are push bolts which have to be taken out and re applied once the panels are in and lined up.
Once this is done, You need to program the car to accept the new units.
The instructions provided by Luke are very clear. Head back to his thread and read from "Programming the APIM"
The only issue I had to resolve after that was getting the visual parking screen to show.  I only have rear park sensors so things may be different for you.
If you have the same circumstances (rear park sensors only, no camera) and the same problem (when you reverse, you can hear the beeps but don't see the visual guide), head into Forscan and on the APIM as-built screen (described in Luke's thread), find the following:
7D0-02-02 XXXX 0XXX XXXX
Change the 0 to a 2.  It should be the first digit in the second box on the 7D0-02-02 line.
 
All being well, you should be done!
 
 
 

Wow ! What a write up .although dont have mk3 i'm impressed.
Yunii

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[Luke_Anderson]

Mate that is a fantastic write up! Everything that I wish mine was 😂 

[Ford_Man]

Brilliant thread Phil. What a difference the sync 2 screen makes. I love the gear knob also 

[Phil21185]

2 hours ago, Ford_Man said:

Brilliant thread Phil. What a difference the sync 2 screen makes. I love the gear knob also 

Thanks FM! Hope it gave you a bit of inspiration. In truth, the gear knob is much easier to do than it was for me - I had to make changes due to the fact it was a mk2 knob I used which was about £60 cheaper!

I do like sync 2 but I'm hankering for sync 3 now 🙂

 

[Phil21185]

Well folkypeeps! With much thanks to @Typhoonf2, I've now upgraded to Sync 3, about 98% working with just a couple of programming glitches to sort out.

From sync 2 (in turn from sync 1) all of had to do was plug in the screen and also dig out the unused blue fakra connector from the sync 2 conversion and plug that in too!

There is also a handy hidden menu for sync 3 with a few things like extra themes like the Ford GT one above.

With the system on, hold EJECT, then press and hold NEXT TRACK.

After about 5 seconds, the system will perform a walk around speaker test, then you'll be presented with the test menu.

A lot of it is module diagnostics, including raw text values for as-built data bytes, but under 'testing menu' there is the option to change theme amongst others.

Some theme changes (like Ford GT and the Lincoln ones) are not permanent without Forscan. There is info on this in the stickied sync 2 upgrade thread at the top of the focus forum.

At the moment, apart from not having wired in the carplay hub, i just have a couple of issues: I don't get visual parking aid (park pilot) and the distance to the next turn on the gauge screen is 256 times what it is on the sync 3 screen sat nav!

"In 1786 miles, turn left..."

Methinks the distance byte has shifted over a couple of places...

I'll get to the bottom of these issues hopefully and report back.

I also have a US fascia (looks like sync 1 titanium, gloss black, larger rotary) coming. Tracking says it's currently languishing in customs clearance, so I'll expect a letter from parcelforce in 15 years saying there's £3 million pounds tax to pay on a £100 piece of plastic...

There is also a simple way to mirror a an android device with sync 3. It will apparently work with a stock phone but only a rooted phone will accept input from the sync touchscreen.

Pics for that to follow.

 

Anyone want a sync 2?!

[Phil21185]

After paying £45 to the government for the privilege of buying what I want to buy with my own money which I've already paid tax on, from an 'open' market in the 'free' world, my us fascia will arrive on Tuesday!

When I've fitted it, I'll do a write up for it in case anyone else wants to be as crazy as me and also for android screen mirroring in sync 3.

[Postie123]

Wanna do mine lol! 

Love to do this but I'm way useless to attempt this.

[b4zz]

loving what you have done fella and look forward to seeing the write up on the new facia

[Phil21185]

16 hours ago, Postie123 said:

Wanna do mine lol! 

Love to do this but I'm way useless to attempt this.

Not as difficult as you might think. I'm sure if you wanted to take it on we'd be able to help you out if you got stuck!

4 hours ago, b4zz said:

loving what you have done fella and look forward to seeing the write up on the new facia

Thanks mate. Fascia arrived but some problems so might be a while before it's fully sorted.